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Old 07-29-2013, 06:25 PM   #36
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So with info i have said dd full exhaust and goal to atleast 500.what should I really change and what needs to be left alone?where can I find a good deal
There are plenty of guys out there making that kind of HP on the stock bottom end
the secret is how you treat your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because you have 500 RWHP dose not mean you need to tap into it every chance you get
If every stop sign red light or open streach of road you see as a reason plant your foot in it your engine is not going to last even at 450 hp
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Old 07-29-2013, 06:42 PM   #37
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There are plenty of guys out there making that kind of HP on the stock bottom end
the secret is how you treat your car !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just because you have 500 RWHP dose not mean you need to tap into it every chance you get
If every stop sign red light or open streach of road you see as a reason plant your foot in it your engine is not going to last even at 450 hp
True.95% I drive regular around 60-70.to tell you the truth shes never been past 110 and only been past 90 a few times haha.i don't punch it every single time(not hard anyways ha).like I said shes a dd so I do take care of her and have fun but rarely rarely drivin hard
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Old 07-29-2013, 08:02 PM   #38
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I've researched alot about how my our motors Handle and on average seems like 450-480 rwhp is what is considered safe. Kenne bell on their website has a max hp rating value for the various parts of the car. I just wouldn't be sitting their showing of and reving it at red line , like mentioned earlier , just don't over obuse it. I got the kenne bell on mine, and so far so good. I punch it here and there but just not at every stop sign or light . A good tune is what is really important aswell.
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:20 PM   #39
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I've researched alot about how my our motors Handle and on average seems like 450-480 rwhp is what is considered safe. Kenne bell on their website has a max hp rating value for the various parts of the car. I just wouldn't be sitting their showing of and reving it at red line , like mentioned earlier , just don't over obuse it. I got the kenne bell on mine, and so far so good. I punch it here and there but just not at every stop sign or light . A good tune is what is really important aswell.
Yea ive read that and I'd be happy with that.and yea i don't punch it every time but when the time comes when I'm behind someone slow cant drive i have down shift n pass.and I think a reputable tuner would Murillo motorsports is good.he built my friends motor that has a vortech.beast
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:25 PM   #40
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B careful pushing a 3v past 500hp on the stock bottom end!
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:45 PM   #41
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B careful pushing a 3v past 500hp on the stock bottom end!
What's worth replacing and worth keeping.ive read n been told already that the rods n pistons are the weak link.im not looking at track time but don't want my motor to blow.whats your advice
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Old 07-29-2013, 09:55 PM   #42
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What's worth replacing and worth keeping.ive read n been told already that the rods n pistons are the weak link.im not looking at track time but don't want my motor to blow.whats your advice
Do rods and pistons and 03/04 cobra crank
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:03 PM   #43
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Do rods and pistons and 03/04 cobra crank
Is that what really needs to be replaced?again not looking at big numbers just around 480-500ish and maybe a tad bit more and not blow up the motor.where would suggest to buy this?
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:14 PM   #44
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Modular motorsports, svt performance... Having all forged internals will give u peace of mind.. Ur just on borrowed time with that much hp on a stock bottom end.. Kellog crank and Manely rods and pistons.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:21 PM   #45
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Modular motorsports, svt performance... Having all forged internals will give u peace of mind.. Ur just on borrowed time with that much hp on a stock bottom end.. Kellog crank and Manely rods and pistons.
But pretty much rods pistons n crank then huh ha? Now if I do that while I save up for the blower will i feel a difference with the replacement?i sure ill need a tune
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:26 PM   #46
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U will need a tune.. The new internals will let u go over 500.. U could tune down to around 475 and ur stock bottom end may hold.. Depends on ur driving but I wouldn't do a blower and not b able to beat on it some.. Think injectors too?

---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------

Forged internals are like condoms.. U may need them u may not but better to have it than blow somthin up.. IMO
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:35 PM   #47
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U will need a tune.. The new internals will let u go over 500.. U could tune down to around 475 and ur stock bottom end may hold.. Depends on ur driving but I wouldn't do a blower and not b able to beat on it some.. Think injectors too?

---------- Post added at 11:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:24 PM ----------

Forged internals are like condoms.. U may need them u may not but better to have it than blow somthin up.. IMO
Haha that's funny but true.ill looking into internals before the blower then.might as well do it rt the first time then.do I need to do anything to the heads or anything or am I good with the bottom end.ive searched the mmr and saw the one cobra crank manly rods pistons.not bad for a lil over $1600 and over 800hp.numbers Im not looking but I guess with a peace if mind that could go over 500 n be ok.thanks for the info bro.
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Old 07-29-2013, 10:36 PM   #48
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No problem anytime
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:35 AM   #49
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No problem anytime
One more thing haha.do I have to worry bout anything on the top end like the heads or anything or no.i know alot of ppl are probably gonna say just get a 5.0 with the money I'm spending but I know my insurance will go up n I don't feel like dealing with a bigger payment that I have already thats why I'm going this route ya know.besides maybe ill surprise a stock or a very mildly tuned 5.0 haha
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:31 AM   #50
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Heads should b ok
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Old 07-30-2013, 04:29 PM   #51
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With Paxton or Vortec you can choose between oil fed from your engine or self lubericated that you have to change the oil in the head unit
That's awesome! I didn't know they offered that on those Kits.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:20 PM   #52
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But pretty much rods pistons n crank then huh ha? Now if I do that while I save up for the blower will i feel a difference with the replacement?i sure ill need a tune
If you rebuild you engine with forged internals and do not change any thing like the compression ratio you will not gain or lose any HP the only thing you are doing is installing stronger components in the rotating assy ie: rods, pistons, crank. You will also not need to change the tune.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:32 PM   #53
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If you rebuild you engine with forged internals and do not change any thing like the compression ratio you will not gain or lose any HP the only thing you are doing is installing stronger components in the rotating assy ie: rods, pistons, crank. You will also not need to change the tune.
Yea I was reading about that.of course I have to save up for these parts but rather my info now and search for the best product.i guess you can say that I'm the type to research my product way ahead especailly when it comes to touching the inside of the motor.i so t want to rush.so far I decided on the internals from mmr.this is the what I'm looking.since I'm using my stock motor i figured this would be good got a lil over 1600.is this good or do I need anything

MMR Street Mod 750 Forged Rotating assembly ( 96-2010 2v or 3V )

This is everything you need except a block to assemble a complete forged shortblock, this kit has the same parts as the MMR Street Mod 750 shortblock but in a do it yourself kit. Available in all piston oversizes for 1996-2010 2V or 3V.

Includes:

1500 HP Forged Kellogg/Cobra Crankshaft (6 bolt only!)

MMR 4340 Forged I-beam Rods with ARP HARDWARE-up to 750HP

Manley Forged Pistons with tool steel Pins (any compression ratio)

Total Seal Rings

Clevite Performance Rod and Main bearings

1 year Warranty

---------- Post added at 06:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:29 PM ----------

If I should look at a different rotory assembly let me know or if I should be ok.another thing it was sting something about boring size.idk what that means.
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:43 PM   #54
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^ that set up look fine and should make for a good strong bottom end are you planning to assemble the motor yourself ??????? or just buy the parts and have a shop do the rebuild????
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:48 PM   #55
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If you rebuild you engine with forged internals and do not change any thing like the compression ratio you will not gain or lose any HP the only thing you are doing is installing stronger components in the rotating assy ie: rods, pistons, crank. You will also not need to change the tune.
Tune the car
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Old 07-30-2013, 06:54 PM   #56
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^ that set up look fine and should make for a good strong bottom end are you planning to assemble the motor yourself ??????? or just buy the parts and have a shop do the rebuild????
I would like to do it myself to learn how the inside works and would like to get my friends cousin to help buuut,I think ill have a reputable shop do it so i know its done correctly.
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:00 PM   #57
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Tune the car
Yea I was gonna do anyways might or might not gain anything from the internals.what I don't know is about the bore.when I looked at it gave options like the
Std 3.552
+.020 3.572
+.030 3.682
3.700
Idk what that is guessing that's if your messing with the heads
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:26 PM   #58
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I would like to do it myself to learn how the inside works and would like to get my friends cousin to help buuut,I think ill have a reputable shop do it so i know its done correctly.
If you have never rebuild an engine before do not attempt to do so with out help from someone who has !!!!!!!!!!!

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Yea I was gonna do anyways might or might not gain anything from the internals.what I don't know is about the bore.when I looked at it gave options like the
Std 3.552
+.020 3.572
+.030 3.682
3.700
Idk what that is guessing that's if your messing with the heads
They are talking about size of the pistons as in weather you bored the cylinders and need to install oversize pistons in the block
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:33 PM   #59
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Tune the car
Really dude just because you rebuilt the bottom end on a stock motor to stock spec's with forged internals you need a custom tune
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Old 07-30-2013, 07:42 PM   #60
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Really dude just because you rebuilt the bottom end on a stock motor to stock spec's with forged internals you need a custom tune
Do u know what's going on inside that motor? R u a computer or dyno? How do u know the air fuels aren't out or timing? U don't!! U put forged internals and rebuild a motor why cut corners now? B safe tune the car
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Old 07-30-2013, 08:10 PM   #61
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I was going to tune it anyways just so nothing can go wrong.but what should I get as for the piston size.idk bout the compression or anything or piston size again don't want my motor to blow especially since I'm trying pay her off ha
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Old 07-30-2013, 09:22 PM   #62
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Do u know what's going on inside that motor? R u a computer or dyno? How do u know the air fuels aren't out or timing? U don't!! U put forged internals and rebuild a motor why cut corners now? B safe tune the car
If you are running stock spec's (Bore, stroke, compression ratio) What have you done to change your air fuel ratio or timing by putting in forged internals? Nothing
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Old 07-30-2013, 10:06 PM   #63
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If you are running stock spec's (Bore, stroke, compression ratio) What have you done to change your air fuel ratio or timing by putting in forged internals? Nothing
So what else needs to be done.like I said before I'm not looking for track hp.this is a street dd car.shes not gonna be ran all the time just looking for extra power with peace of mind that my motor will hold.if I happen to make more than 500 ill be happy.i just want to run around 11-12 psi.so is there something I'm missing
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Old 07-31-2013, 01:09 AM   #64
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If you are running stock spec's (Bore, stroke, compression ratio) What have you done to change your air fuel ratio or timing by putting in forged internals? Nothing
Go back to the import scene
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:18 AM   #65
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Go back to the import scene
Darn busted you got me my cover is blown
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Old 07-31-2013, 10:16 AM   #66
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So is there something more i need to do something in missing
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Old 07-31-2013, 05:32 PM   #67
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You are missing lots! Are you using your stock block? Chances are you will when you do your rebuild. So if that is the case your most likely going to have to bore your block +0.010. Or 10 over bore. That will basically give you a new block. A machine shop/ engine shop can do this for you. I would also suggest you have them assemble your short block. Ie pistons crank rods rings windage tray. If your using a new block you can get stock size bore.. But it might save you money to just bore your block 10 over. Plus more ci = more hp..
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Old 07-31-2013, 07:19 PM   #68
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You are missing lots! Are you using your stock block? Chances are you will when you do your rebuild. So if that is the case your most likely going to have to bore your block +0.010. Or 10 over bore. That will basically give you a new block. A machine shop/ engine shop can do this for you. I would also suggest you have them assemble your short block. Ie pistons crank rods rings windage tray. If your using a new block you can get stock size bore.. But it might save you money to just bore your block 10 over. Plus more ci = more hp..
Yea I'm using my stock block.im sure he motor is good in the inside only had a year and I don't run her hard.and as far as pistons rods ive been looking at the mmr set with forged Kellogg/cobra crank.says it can handle more than 900 but my goal is just around 500 or if happen to get more then cool.and givin the options I saw ill probably to .20 over.do I have to get new cams or can I use the stock ones?cams sounds nice but I rather hear te exhaust especailly since shes a dd
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:02 PM   #69
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If you are going to forge you might as well do cams. You can see some nice gains with cams and fi.. Ya I went 20 over. Plus a stroker. Haven't dino'd her yet. Having tranny clutch problems..
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Old 07-31-2013, 08:12 PM   #70
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If you are going to forge you might as well do cams. You can see some nice gains with cams and fi.. Ya I went 20 over. Plus a stroker. Haven't dino'd her yet. Having tranny clutch problems..
Yea hearing the lope is nice but for me i don't think I can stand hearing every single day at stops.idk that's just me but don't get me wrong cams do sound badass.so now that I have more of an understanding of the internals I have to plan on saving.is there anything else besides the bore?oh before I forget could i still use the stock cams n heads?
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