351 swap into s197 - Page 2 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-18-2014, 06:01 AM   #36
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Originally Posted by Black12 View Post
Shelby38 True, it's definitely time! That's why I bought this 2012 V6 model! I want to keep the cars air bags, abs, dash, etc. running off the stock ECM but.....run the engine off a Holley or FAST efi system or?, regardless of engine type. The OBDII system is the fly in the ointment. Jon Kaase has a BB in his 08 and everything on the car works like factory but he's also carbureted. The OBDII deal would keep me off the street legally. Some kind of interface is available to interpret the signals to the ECM and NOT kick out a code. On page 20 of Greg Banish' book on FI systems he states "A popular choice is to install a piggyback controller that intercepts and modifies the signals going to and from the factory ECU", If I had this technology I'd be all over this. I need something to satisfy the stock ECM so that it won't flag the OBDII. Then, it's new engine time. Thanks for the feedback.
The way I got it figured is a well-built 408 stroker (roller block, forged crank/rods, AFR heads, QuickFuel 850cfm carb, and MSD ignition) will run you about $8-10k. If you're gonna do this, why bother with EFI (expense and hassle)? The whole point is to go old school and build a motor you don't have to pay someone to tune for you.

I want to keep the stock stuff too, but I'm not married to any of it. I drove cars for a long time without that crap, and I figure I can do it again.

I've attached an image of the car my swap is going into.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:07 AM   #37
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Originally Posted by shelby38 View Post
I fabbed my own Transmission cross member but you can buy one from Evolution performance(link below).

Evolution Performance, Inc. Billet Aluminum Crossmember [EVO-CM] - $275.00 : Evolution Performance, Performance Parts & Accessories - Ford Mustang & Shelby Experts

I used the gas pedal and cable from an early 80's fox body (carb car), the cable was the perfect length and the pedal fit nicely with a small mod to the bracket. Clean and cheap. I can get you pics later if needed. There are also several aftermarket gas pedal setups with throttle cables designed for street rod/generic applications.


I originally used a MAC shorty header for 351W in a fox body that I had left over from a previous 351W/Fox swap. They fit nicely in fact so nicely that I was able to drop the motor/trany in with the headers on (I can provide pics if needed). I have found so far that many of the 351W/fox headers will fit the S197 as long as you use a shorty or mid length that hugs the block on the drivers side. I have a set of BBK equal length shorties that will not fit. I tried a few sets of 351W/fox full length headers that I have hanging around and found that any set that wrapped around the steering shaft on the fox will not fit the S197 due to steering shaft/frame clearances.
The shop that's gonna do my swap for me has a 408 sitting on an engine stand with BBK long tubes on it that's going into a Fox. The tubes are exactly as you describe on the driver's side - hugs the block and does not have the weird bend on the front tube to accommodate the steering shaft. I'll see if I can't get a part number from the shop. That might be the answer to your long-tube search.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:10 AM   #38
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For the record, I'm willing to setup a web page dedicated to info regarding S197 351w swaps. As I discover info, I can post it there.
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Old 01-18-2014, 06:21 AM   #39
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Originally Posted by Black12 View Post
Shelby38 True, it's definitely time! That's why I bought this 2012 V6 model!
I have a 2012 as well, and the EPAS (electric power steering) is going to be the thing I want to keep if possible. If it's not possible, there's a manual steering rack available from Flaming River (made for the S197 Mustangs), or I could just put a 2005-10 hydraulic rack in the car - it costs about $750 if you buy the parts new from Ford, but it really uglies up the engine bay and gives you one more thing that could leak.
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Old 03-20-2014, 02:58 PM   #40
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I just found out there's a shop in houston that did a 427ci stroker swap into 2005 Mustang, and they selling a video that describes the process and lists part numbers so you can do the same thing. The video is $28 shipped (part number is HP-38), and the seller's name is "ezsautomotive". There are a couple of youtube videos of the car in questions - just search for "2005 mustang 427ci swap", and you should find three videos.

I ordered the how-to video. At the very least, it will list the headers he used and if that keeps me from having to buy headers a 2nd time, it's worth the $28.
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Old 03-21-2014, 09:38 AM   #41
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Originally Posted by Sirtat View Post
it's EASY !! just make more

---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:31 PM ----------

08mustanggt

as the racing season is over I would consider selling my engine... rated to handle over 1000 HP reliably you could put your turbo on full blast and be full throttle again in 1 week
I probably make more money than you - but I still don't throw it away. I can't justify dropping thousands on a motor swap for my own amusement while there are people starving to death around the world. But then again, I had amazing parents who raised me well.
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Old 03-21-2014, 10:16 AM   #42
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I probably make more money than you - but I still don't throw it away. I can't justify dropping thousands on a motor swap for my own amusement while there are people starving to death around the world. But then again, I had amazing parents who raised me well.

No sense in arguing how one should spend his own hard earned money. You like helping others he has an adrenaline itch to scratch. I have both

Congrats on the "amazing parents".
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Old 03-24-2014, 10:13 AM   #43
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RE: the swap video I mentioned earlier

I didn't like the accelerator pedal setup he used (he bought an aftermarket thing off eBay for $70). I decided to try making use of the OEM Fox body pedal and cable with an aftermarket cable bracket on the carb. The pedal was only $19 (found/purchased it on ebay), the bracket is $56 from summit, and the cable is going to be around $40. All totaled, it cost 428 Happy Meals.

The video shows all of the mistakes the guy made along the way, and has some comedy value besides. He used a sawz-all to remove the heater fittings on the firewall, which I found to be quite funny, and during his first start-up, the starter was obviously installed incorrectly, but he kept trying it and saying, "That sounds funny". I was shouting at the screen, "STOP DOING IT THEN!". He eventually broke the nose cone off the starter and had to buy a new one. Hilarity was abundant.
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Old 03-26-2014, 07:56 AM   #44
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Another little piece of info for potential swappers - If you plan to keep your OEM fuel tank (the guy in the video did NOT), you have to buy a return-style fuel hat. The primary reason is that our fuel tanks are made of plastic, and we therefore cannot punch a hole and weld in a fitting bung.

There are several return-style fuel hats available, and the nicest one looks to be the Aeromotive Stealth 1000 setup. It replaces the OEM fuel hat, retains the OEM fuel level sender, and accepts AN fittings for both the feed and return lines. You need to also completely replace the original fuel lines in the car, but I think that's a small price to pay given that you don't have to do anything heroic to make a system that will work.
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Old 03-30-2014, 01:27 AM   #45
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Ugh wish i knew half the stuff some of you guys did about motors
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Old 03-30-2014, 08:42 AM   #46
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A lot of times google provides the learning material. I always research and try to learn as much as possible before starting a project.
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Old 03-30-2014, 10:49 AM   #47
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Hands on is the best way to learn. Everytime a friend asks me to do something for them they better be willing to learn and get their hands dirty as well. Everytime I have something done i haven't a clue about i always help and learn from the tech thats doing the job.
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Old 03-30-2014, 03:49 PM   #48
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Ugh wish i knew half the stuff some of you guys did about motors
As mentioned by others, it's a simple matter of research nowadays. Google is definitely your friend. I was REAL heavy into Mustang and Ford performance back in the 70's and 80's, so I'm already familiar with the basic mechanics of most of the stuff. It's the new computer-controlled crap that's getting in the way.

The problems I've been facing are entirely related to the presence of the computer to control everything. Back in the day, if you wanted to update your fuel system, it was simple because the tank was in the back of the car. Now, you have to concern yourself with a tank that is plastic and that straddles the driveshaft tunnel, which makes things immensely more complicated.

In essence, when dealing with a motor swap, you have to deal with a few important but seemingly innocuous details:

- Getting the motor into the engine bay - this is EASY. BMR and AJE make K-members for a S197 351w swap. If you want to stay with the stock k-member, you can even get some motor mounts from Ford Racing. I'm going with the BMR k-member.

- Power steering - 2011+ owners have to replace the EPAS with a rack from a 2005-2010 Mustang, which means you need a pump, brackets, and custom lines made up. I'm going with the Griggs close-ration steering rack, Fox Mustang pump, March brackets, and custom lines.

- Headers - in our cars, there are no "engine swap" headers available, so your only choices are finding something that "mostly works", or go with a completely custom (and expensive) setup. I'm going with Accufab mid-lengths.

- Converting from drive-by-wire - since the computer controls your throttle, you have to convert your pedal to a cable setup. I'm going to try a Fox Mustang gas pedal/cable setup.

- Your OEM trans/driveshaft will be useless because the input shaft won't be the right depth/size and the bellhousing won't bolt up to a w block, so you have to find a replacement. Your best bet is to use a Tremec T56 with a QuickTime bellhousing because the shifter will be in pretty much the right place when everything is said and done, not to mention that it can handle the torque a stroked 351w will produce. If you're using an automatic, getting a cable-operated aftermarket shifter is probably the way to go. You're gonna need a new driveshaft, and you'll probably have to fabricate a trans cross member.

- Fuel system - you need to convert it to a return-type system because there's no way you can feed a carb with fuel running at 55psi. A high-quality regulator and fuel hat mods are essential. You could always replace the tank with a spare-tire fuel cell, but you're gonna reduce your fuel capacity by at least four gallons if you do that. I suppose you could even use a rectangular tank if you're willing to cut the trunk area in an appropriate manner and provide some sort of tubular steel cage for it. I'm still working out the details of what I want to do here.

- Instrumentation - If you want to keep the factory instrument cluster, you have to keep the ECU, and adapt the motor to report the RPM to it. This involves mounting a crankshaft trigger wheel on the crankshaft and using the OEM crankshaft position sensor. I haven't yet decided what I want to do here. I've searched and searched, and I can't find a part number for the V6 wheel, and I doubt a V8 wheel from an earlier car will work because the computer is expecting a certain number of teeth on the wheel. If it comes down to the wire, and I still haven't fingered it out, I'm just gonna say screw it and replace the cluster with aftermarket gauges (which I've already budgeted for).

- Hood Clearance - With a 302-based stroker, this wouldn't be a problem, but a Windsor is a little more than an inch taller (taller decks on the block), so it becomes an issue. If you don't already have a suitable hood, get one before you find out that your OEM hood won't shut.

- Cooling - even though you can utilize your OEM radiator, you still have to find appropriate hoses. This is really not a big deal but is mentioned in the interest of completeness.

Finding what works and what doesn't has been tough because of the 3-5 cars I know of that have a swapped pushrod motor, NONE of the owners have put up a blog that I could find. There's a boss 429 car, another guy that put a Nascar 358ci bullet in in his, and three 351w swaps. I've been studying this since last August, and I think I've got most of the stuff figured out. I've managed to save about 70% of the funds for buying the parts, and I figure I have another two-three months before I start the swap.
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Old 03-31-2014, 08:00 AM   #49
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I've been looking at trigger wheels all weekend, and it struck me that they all have 35 teeth. That makes it easy, because the computer is probably looking for the gap in the wheel to count 1 revolution. Since I'm only driving a tach signal, it doesn't matter where the gap is in relation to TDC, so I can simply bolt one onto the back of the balancer, mount the sensor anywhere that's convenient, and be done with it.

At that point, I can keep my OEM instrument cluster, my PATS key, and maybe even the EPAS which would end up saving me almost $1200. The only thing that won't work is cruise control but I'm willing to sacrifice that.

Life is good (unless someone can refute my logic).
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Old 04-15-2014, 09:46 AM   #50
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I don't think the EPAS rack is going to fit in the space available (2011+ have electric power steering). It's huge, and the oil pan is going to be the deciding factor. There's only so much room between the humps in the pan, and I don't know how much material we can grind off the front of the EPAS before we make it inoperable or otherwise break it. The pan itself can be notched, but not to a large extent because the oil pump lives in the front hump. I suppose the smart play is to have a hydraulic rack ready to bolt up in the event we need it. Sometimes, it sucks to be the a pioneer.
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Old 06-06-2014, 12:44 PM   #51
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Well, I thought I'd update everyone:

0) Engine is being assembled - have no idea when it will be ready, but I'm hoping for July 01.

1) Transmission (T56 Magnum XL) is "in the mail"

2) Have almost everything else needed to start the swap, including k-member, motor mounts, clutch, flywheel, pulleys, starter, alternator, brackets, etc. What I don't have is also "in the mail" at this point.

3) Got the mid-length headers from Accufab (#BT210) - 1-3/4 primaries with a 3-inch collector.

4) May have to fabricate a transmission spacer due to the input shaft on the transmission. Have to wait for the motor to be finished before we can verify fitment and formulate a resolution.

5) Fuel system - it turns out that we will probably be able to retain 99% of the existng fuel system. We're going to add a return-line fitting to the passenger side fuel hat, and retain the OEM pump hat. If none of that works, we're gonna chop out the spare tire well and add a 15-gallon racing fuel cell.
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Old 06-07-2014, 01:12 AM   #52
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Originally Posted by jsimmonstx View Post
Well, I thought I'd update everyone:

0) Engine is being assembled - have no idea when it will be ready, but I'm hoping for July 01.

1) Transmission (T56 Magnum XL) is "in the mail"

2) Have almost everything else needed to start the swap, including k-member, motor mounts, clutch, flywheel, pulleys, starter, alternator, brackets, etc. What I don't have is also "in the mail" at this point.

3) Got the mid-length headers from Accufab (#BT210) - 1-3/4 primaries with a 3-inch collector.

4) May have to fabricate a transmission spacer due to the input shaft on the transmission. Have to wait for the motor to be finished before we can verify fitment and formulate a resolution.

5) Fuel system - it turns out that we will probably be able to retain 99% of the existng fuel system. We're going to add a return-line fitting to the passenger side fuel hat, and retain the OEM pump hat. If none of that works, we're gonna chop out the spare tire well and add a 15-gallon racing fuel cell.
Awesome, keep us updated!
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Old 06-16-2014, 10:27 AM   #53
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Transmission update - Got the transmission on Friday. The trans is only availale as a kit, and includes a bell housing for mod motors, a motor plate, the shifter, transmission mount, and cross member (all assuming you're putting the trans into a S197 behind a mod motor).

I had to order a different bell housing - QuickTime #RM8031 - for the Windsor block. This bell housing is 15/16 inch shorter than the kit bell housing, so we have to make a spacer 15/16 thick to be put between the bell housing and the transmission. The plan is to take the bell housing to a waterjet shop and have them use the bell housing's transmission flange as a pattern. Don't know how much it's gonna cost.

Engine update - Machinist said it should be ready sometime this week. WOOT!

I've been driving the car lately without turning on the A/C to see if I could handle the 100-degree days here in Texas, and for the most part I can, but in traffic, it can get damn uncomfortable, so I've half convinced myself to put A/C in the car. I'm going to use a Fox-body compressor and make custom lines to tie it into the OEM system. I want to run the lines behind/under the radiator so that I don't end up with the butt-ugly Fox arrangement that crosses in front of and behind the air box. There is a question as to whether the compressor clutch can be properly controlled by the ECU, but I can always install a manual toggle switch or maybe even a Nitrous window switch if worse comes to worse.

So far, we haven't encountered anything that doesn't have what appears to be a viable workaround.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:29 AM   #54
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Swap started on 01 August:

Here's the engine, ready to go



Swap, day 01:


Took out the V6/auto



Empty engine bay





New K-member and steering rack installed



Engine lowered into car for the first time



Engine in place

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Old 08-19-2014, 07:35 AM   #55
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Swap Day 02:

Okay, pics from day 02:

Gas pedal - had convert to a throttle cable system, so I started out with a Fox Mustang gas pedal. The holes that mount the Fox pedal are exactly the same as the left side S197 holes.



However, when we stuck the pedal on the studs, we found that the pedal is too high and too far to the left, so we fabricated an adapter plate that utilized the factory hole locations, and allowed us to position the Fox pedal in a more favorable location.





Here it is mounted in the car, along with the brake/clutch pedal setup we also had to install.



After we finished the pedal, we were able to determine where to drill the holes for the Fox (manual transmission) throttle cable.



Next, we tried installing the pre-2010 master cylinder reservoir (for the hydraulic clutch). It turns out that the reservoir is too freakin' wide, and prevents the use of the vacuum fitting on the brake booster. I had to order a new reservoir from Ford, but here's a pic with an arrow pointing to where the vacuum fitting should be.



Finally, we mounted the crank trigger wheel (from a late model 302 Bronco) and pulley, and attached the alternator bracket and two of the three a/c brackets. I got the wrong front bracket and had to order one from AM for a 351w swap. Arrgg. Here's a pic of the trigger wheel mounted:



We had issues getting the transmission in the car, so there are no more pictures from what turned out to be a very long day.

I'll be spending the next couple of days (while the shop is closed) stripping the protective wrap from the wiring harness so we can cut away the wiring we don't need.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:37 AM   #56
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Swap day 03:

Not much to report today. Buttoned up the transmission, re-installed the driver's seat, and found that the passenger side header does in fact clear the bell housing.

When we installed the center console panel, we found that the shifter base rubs the driver's side of the trim panel when we try to go into first. I think we're going to grind down a raised boss on the base because it's just barely hitting.

Transmission crossmember - we had to drill a whole set of new mounting holes - understandable if you consider that the trans kit is designed to go behind a mod motor instead of a Windsor.



The transmission, installed.



The throwout bearing (from Exedy) installed. You can see the spacers behind it.



The undercarriage.



The passenger-side header clears!

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Old 08-19-2014, 07:38 AM   #57
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Swap day 04:

Added the fitting for the return line to the passenger side fuel hat.



I also dropped off the driveshaft, and it should be ready today.

We discovered that the radiator expansion tank won't fit where it was originally (the alternator pulley hits it), so we're going to relocate it to be behind the passenger side headlight. Eventually, I'll replace that ugly piece of crap with an aluminum tank.

Other cooling stuff - we're using Fox Mustang upper/lower radiator hoses. The upper hose is smaller than the opening on the radiator, but it can be adapted.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:41 AM   #58
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Swap day 06

Had to shave 5/16 inch off the transmission spacer, install three 0.187 throwout bearing spacers, and drill new holes in the transmission cross member, but we finally got the transmission in the car for good, and measured for the driveshaft.

Today, we're going to modify the passenger side header so it clears the bellhousing (it just barely touches when it's bolted up. Once that's resolved, we can weld the v-band collar to the collector and send the headers out for ceramic coating.

Once that's done, I think we're going to tackle the fuel system changes.


Swap day 07:

Drive shaft is in



Exhaust is done - headers go out for coating on Monday



Headers prevented "normal" use of dipstick, so we had to be the crap out of the tube



Top and bottom radiator hoses came from a Fox mustang





We moved the radiator a bit farther forward to resolve a clearance issue with the water pump and the fan. Fortunately, all we had to do was lossen the bolts that hold the top brackets down and pull the radiator back. This gave us about 1/4 inch of clearance.



Mounted carburetor and installed linkage. We're having a problem with the throttle cable popping off the throttle ball at full throttle. Gotta think on it some



We had to modify the air cleaner base so that the air cleaner would clear the firewall. This entailed cutting the carb hole out with more material on one end than the other, turning it around, and welding it back into place. Then, we made a "S"-shaped stud to accommodate the offset.





We have 5-7 working days before we get the headers back from the coater, and that will give us time to finish running the fuel line, mount the expansion tank, and do the electrical stuff. By the time the headers come back next week, we should be ready to start the engine for the first time.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:42 AM   #59
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Update - Day 08

Mounted the expansion tank in its new location.



Had to fabricate a bracket for it.



We also mounted the coil (also on a custom bracket) and the A/C compressor.



Finally, I built and installed the plug wires.



---------- Post added at 07:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:42 AM ----------

Swap day 09:

We got the tee for the lower radiator hose and installed it. I was amazed at the quality of the part. It's a billet piece with no welded-on stuff. Primo gear. All we have left on the cooling system is an overflow hose connection. That should be handled today.

The fuel lines have been plumbed. I paid half of the cost of a "Koul Tool" for the shop. This is a vice-like machine that allows you to put a push-lock hoses onto an AN fitting in less than 2 minutes (less than 30 seconds if you have air tools). Believe me when I say that you don't want to be without this tool if you're doing push-lock lines. We're still waiting on an aluminum plug for the fuel pressure regulator, and when we get it (should be today), the fuel system will be done. The shop guy wants to weld a couple of fittings for the fuel pressure gauge, and that should also be happening today.

I'm still waiting to hear if we're going to get the headers back today.

The schedule for the weekend includes:

- Finish up the cooling system
- Finish up the fuel system
- Finish up A/C compressor install
- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod
- Install the MSD box
- Weld O2 sensor bungs into x-pipe
- Install headers and x-pipe for the final time
- Install TPS sensor on carb
- Install temp gauge sensor
- Install oil pressure sensor
- Start electrical work

Another aspect of this swap that I haven't yet mentioned is the work of a tuner to turn a bunch of stuff off, as well as remapping other parameters to allow the ECU to function without blowing its little electronic mind. As I get details, I will write it down for the sanity of those who follow in my footsteps.
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Old 08-19-2014, 07:43 AM   #60
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Swap day 10

Accomplished:

- Finish up A/C compressor install
- Install air/fuel gauge in a vent pod
- Install headers

The lower radiator hose tee installed and connected to expansion tank:



The headers came back from the coating shop - $190 including tax.



The headers installed:



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Old 08-19-2014, 07:44 AM   #61
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Swap day 11:

Update from yesterday:

- The exhaust is finished and permanently on the car

- Power harness is modified and wired up (including starter and alternator. We ended up with only 5 or 6 wires not directly related to power being needed, because most of the harness involved with the power steering rack (that is no longer present).

- MSD module and coil are wired up

- A/C clutch harness is run but not connected yet

- Transmission clutch has been bled and we have what appears to be proper throwout bearing operation

- Battery is back in the car

We now have enough wiring installed to start the car, but we didn't have the regulator plug to finish the fuel system (will have that Monday), and I'm having a bit of difficult finding a 3/8 NPT 90-degree fitting with a 3/8 hose bar on it for the PCV valve (all other solutions have been too tall). I'm gonna hit Lowe's and Home Depot today to see if they have anything.

We still have to wire up the transmission (speedo and reverse solenoid), and tackle the ECU harness. We've identified all of the connectors, and we have to tread carefully when removing stuff because we want to make sure that what we remove doesn't somehow have an impact on what we actually need to keep (throttle position, cylinder head temp, crank position).

BTW, I used the Ford Service Manual for a 2011 Mustang to identify the wires, and some of the wire colors changed for the 2012 model year.

In short, 99% of the nuts and bolts stuff is done, and we're down to the electrical stuff. Not bad - two weeks in and we're almost finished with what I would loosely call a significant swap. Sorry for no pictures today, but all of the wiring is pretty well hidden, and the rest of the engine bay still looks mostly like it did the day before.
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:08 AM   #62
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I loved these last few posts.


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Old 08-19-2014, 09:22 AM   #63
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I loved these last few posts.
Silver lining - the UN hasn't contacted me about my engine swap causing Ebola to spread more quickly or more children to starve.

<sarcasm> That sure is a load off my mind.</sarcasm>

However, I think that once the swap is done, I'll be able to undo all of the positive environmental effects caused by 5000 Prius owners by simply turning my ignition key to "Accessory".
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Old 08-19-2014, 09:25 AM   #64
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I expect a video and an overall cost breakdown once you have completed this journey. Any plans for FI in the future?


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Old 08-19-2014, 09:36 AM   #65
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I expect a video and an overall cost breakdown once you have completed this journey. Any plans for FI in the future?
There *will* be video (hopefully tomorrow). Cost breakdown is kinda pointless as far as individual parts are concerned because all my stuff was new, and a lot of people are into the budget of things, not to mention that prices can change from day to day or from source to source. I can give rough estimates:

Engine - $12k
Transmission - $6k
Incidentals - $3k
Shop Labor - $4k
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:36 AM   #66
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DANG!!
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1995 5.0 u/d,cai,t/b,shorty headers,x pipe,flows 40's,373 gears, alum. driveshaft, alum. radiator, shift kit, e-cam, ported upper and lower intake, 100 shot of spray, 2100 stall, black 0304 cobras. suspension: upper and lower control arms, sub frame connecters, and springs all SVE
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:38 AM   #67
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DANG!!
Where in texas?
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Old 08-19-2014, 10:48 AM   #68
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Where in texas?
San Antonio
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:11 AM   #69
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San Antonio
oh ok, I was hoping for Houston lol
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Old 08-19-2014, 11:17 AM   #70
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So, to summarize (for the OP) the special stuff you have to do to perform this swap:

0) You need to use a T56 Magnum XL transmission because the OEM transmission does not have a removable bell housing, and it won't bolt up to a pushrod motor.

1) Since the transmission comes as a kit for a mod motor, you need to get a different bell housing (QuickTime #RM-8031)

2) You need to have an 11/16-inch spacer made to go between the bell housing and the transmission to put the input shaft at a n appropriate depth in the crankshaft. I paid $712 for my spacer (and then $85 to have it milled to the correct thickness), but since I now have the CAD drawing they created at the waterjet place, I can offer to have one made for anyone interested for the low, low price of $450. The CAD charges alone were $440 when I commissioned the work (and they gave me a break on it).

3) The throwout bearing will need three 0.187 spacers (from RAM) in order to produce an approriate stroke to release the clutch.

4) You should expect to have to relocate your radiator expansion tank.

5) On a 2011+, if you're changing from an auto to a manual trans, you can use brake/clutch pedal assembly from any S197, but you must use the 2011+ manual trans master cylinder reservoir.

6) You must replace your gas pedal with something that uses a cable. I used a fox body pedal mounted to an adapter bracket that itself bolts to the firewall using the OEM studs.

7) If you put A/C in the car, make sure you get the correct 351w front A/C bracket, and you should expect to have to elongate some of the holes in that bracket in order to get the A/C to bolt up correctly.

8) The Accufab #BT210 mid-length headers are a perfect fit. No modifications should be required with the excetion of adding v-band collars to clamp the headers to the X-pipe.

9) My existing aluminum driveshaft was shortened to 42.25 inches. Make sure they cut off the pinion end of the shaft (when they shorten it) so you can get rid of that rear slip joint.

10) If you use a Cobra oval air cleaner like mine, you will need to modify the base so it will clear the firewall.

11) If you have an OEM hood, you may need to replace it or cut a hole and add a scoop.

12) You must convert your fuel system to include a return line. I simply added a return line to my OEM passenger side fuel hat.

13) If you're going with a carbureted system, you MUST use a return type fuel pressure regularoe.

14) Exhaust - If you want to make it easy on yourself, you can utilize your exiusting x-pipe (as long as it's at least 2.5 inche pipe), and simply fabrivcate the pipe section between the header and the x-pipe. Don't forget to weld O2 sensor bungs into the adapter pipe so you can add a wide-band gauge as well as hook up to the dyno.

15) The OEM wiring harnesses will need modification, which mostly entails removing wiring you don't need, and adapting the wires you need to keep to connect to the late model accessories. Starter is a direct wire-up, but the alternator wire needs to be shortend appropriately, and a smaller ring connector used to connect it to the alternator.

16) If you want to keep your OEM tach, you must install a trigger wheel and a crank position sensor at the harmonic balancer, and connect the sensor to the appropriate wires in the harness.

17) We're using a fox temperature sensor in the intake to control the fan and A/C (see tune info below), as well as a throttle position sensor on the carb.

18) A custom tune is required to do things like remap the fuel OEM pressure regulator, remap the cylinder head temp sensor to use the signal from the fox body sensor. There may be other tune specific things that need to be done, but I don't know what they are yet.

Since the swap isn't done yet, this list might change.
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