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Old 11-17-2013, 04:03 PM   #1
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Engine removal

I was hoping someone could give me a step vy step on how to remove our engines. I know I can easily figure it out by doing it, but I would like something to reference while doing it to make things smoother. I'm planning on pulling the engine and rebuilding it this winter (forged bottom end and new cams).
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:16 PM   #2
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I just had mine out and just got her back in and running yesterday! Here's what I did

Disconnect battery and remove and battery tray (all 8mm bolts)

Disconnect all connections on top (coils, injectors ,cps, etc..)

Then remove fuel line next to the drivers side of the intake manifold

Then remove vacume line from brake booster along with the following vacume lines

Take out bolts to fuel rail and disconnect the connection (I think 8mm also) pull the fuel rail off (may need a little force due to the o-rings)

Take off intake tube

Remove throttle body (2 8mm bolts on top and 2 10mm nuts on the bottom)

Remove alternator. There is a bracket. Remove 2 10mm bolts holding that in then the 2 13 mm nuts on the bottom and disconnect the connections on the back. Don't forget the serpentine belt first. There is a half in tensioner and push down towards the driver side to release

Then remove (I believe 10) bolts to intake manifold. (10mm I think) in the middle of the intake manifold there are 2 bolts inside of it. That's included in the 10 bolts.

you should then be able to undo more connections you couldn't get too.

On have passenger side of the radiator there is a drain bolt. It's plastic. (17mm maybe 19mm) I forget lol drain the coolant.

Remove radiator hoses.

Now that the intake is off you can gain access to the upper belhousing bolts. Remove all them. I think 8 I'm not sure.

Disconnect starter (3 10mm bolts)

Driver side on the bottom is the lower steering pump. Remove that. Very easy. 3 13mm studded bolts.

Passenger side bottom is the ac compressor. Remove the 3 13mm studded bolts. This is only if you don't wanna recharge the ac.

Then pull the 2 15mm motor mount bolts (accessible from both sides of the engine bay)

There isn't really and points to hook and engine hoist chain too. I I used the driver side alternator stud and I believe the stock manifold on the passenger side haha

Don't forget to disconnect the heater hoses. They can be a b****!

then your ready to yank. I left the trans in the car when I took it out then pulled the trans afterwards. Just go slow and easy and shel come. Youl have to pull forward to get it off the trans then up a little. Then forward more then up. And keep doing that til she's out.

At some point you may need to put a jack under the trans.

Also don't forget to remove the radiator fan. 2 (8mm I believe) bolts then slide up. disconnect the connections obviously there should be two.

It's actually a very easy process.

I did the best I could. If you get hung up on anything you can text me whenever I always have my phone. Good luck man!! 609 332 5660. My names Scott
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:22 PM   #3
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:26 PM   #4
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That's awesome man! Thanks for the write up and pics! Should be a sticky! What did you use to paint the block?!
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Old 11-17-2013, 06:33 PM   #5
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That's awesome man! Thanks for the write up and pics! Should be a sticky! What did you use to paint the block?!
Thanks no problem! And I used VHT engine enamel. Must be engine enamel If you don't want heat to ruin the paint. lol it came out really well.

If your worried about hooking the connections up after you put it back in (like I was, lol) don't worry. When I tell you the harness literally falls into place, it does
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Old 11-17-2013, 11:32 PM   #6
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Have you ever changed cams or a rotating assembly scott?
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:44 AM   #7
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Have you ever changed cams or a rotating assembly scott?
Yes I have. The cam swap on these cars are very simple. as for the rotating assembly I have not in these cars. I do have all data tho so like I said, I can look stuff up for ya
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Old 11-18-2013, 10:56 AM   #8
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Yes I have. The cam swap on these cars are very simple. as for the rotating assembly I have not in these cars. I do have all data tho so like I said, I can look stuff up for ya
That would be amazing Scott! You're the man! I'm looking to pull my engine and replace the bottom end and cams so that its built and ready for high boost in the spring! I know how to change the rotating assembly, I'm just wondering what to do with the timing chains and gears. I know if you do a cam swap, you're supposed to lock them so That they don't move, but what do you do if you just fully remove them?
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:27 PM   #9
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That would be amazing Scott! You're the man! I'm looking to pull my engine and replace the bottom end and cams so that its built and ready for high boost in the spring! I know how to change the rotating assembly, I'm just wondering what to do with the timing chains and gears. I know if you do a cam swap, you're supposed to lock them so That they don't move, but what do you do if you just fully remove them?
If you fully remove the cams then you can still lock the chain. But you could use a zip tie also to keep it tensioned. But if the chain falls down it's not that big of a deal but youl have to remove the front cover. But I assume youl be doing that anyway since the engine is out and you are building it. If your doing that I recommend buying new timing chains anyway. since they're already out. but setting the timing on our engines doesn't get any easier. SOCH for the win lol
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Old 11-18-2013, 12:32 PM   #10
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If you fully remove the cams then you can still lock the chain. But you could use a zip tie also to keep it tensioned. But if the chain falls down it's not that big of a deal but youl have to remove the front cover. But I assume youl be doing that anyway since the engine is out and you are building it. If your doing that I recommend buying new timing chains anyway. since they're already out. but setting the timing on our engines doesn't get any easier. SOCH for the win lol
Do you know how to set the timing on these engines? If it was an old school pushrod engine, I'd have no problem haha. Just give the distributer a little spin and check the timing marks haha. I know that a tuner at a shop can change the timing but when I go to put the gear and chain back on the cam after fully taking it all apart, what do I have to do? Because I heard that this is where you can really screw up your engine.
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Old 11-18-2013, 03:36 PM   #11
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Do you know how to set the timing on these engines? If it was an old school pushrod engine, I'd have no problem haha. Just give the distributer a little spin and check the timing marks haha. I know that a tuner at a shop can change the timing but when I go to put the gear and chain back on the cam after fully taking it all apart, what do I have to do? Because I heard that this is where you can really screw up your engine.
Well yes if you don't set the timing correctly you can say bye to your engine lol I will send a picture of the timing marks
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Old 01-03-2014, 12:16 PM   #12
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Hi there scott, just about to pull my engine. Just wanted to ask you how you hooked it up to pull it? Thanks.
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Old 01-03-2014, 03:57 PM   #13
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Hi there scott, just about to pull my engine. Just wanted to ask you how you hooked it up to pull it? Thanks.

I removed my alternator before pulling along with the intake manifold. So the two studs that the alternator sits on, I hooked to them. The "special tool" ford has hooks to that too so they're strong enough. I had no issues. The one bent a tiny bit but I tapped it back with a hammer. And for the rear of the engine, I believe I strapped to the passenger side exhaust manifold lol
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Old 01-03-2014, 04:08 PM   #14
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I removed my alternator before pulling along with the intake manifold. So the two studs that the alternator sits on, I hooked to them. The "special tool" ford has hooks to that too so they're strong enough. I had no issues. The one bent a tiny bit but I tapped it back with a hammer. And for the rear of the engine, I believe I strapped to the passenger side exhaust manifold lol
Perfect! Thabks scott! I already have the alt and intake off :p
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Old 01-04-2014, 11:52 AM   #15
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Perfect! Thabks scott! I already have the alt and intake off :p

No problem! Good luck and feel free to pm me or anything with questions. Why are you taking it out if you don't mind me asking?
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Old 01-04-2014, 12:04 PM   #16
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No problem! Good luck and feel free to pm me or anything with questions. Why are you taking it out if you don't mind me asking?
Detonation unfortunately :/ going to try and rebuild it myself.
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:02 PM   #17
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Detonation unfortunately :/ going to try and rebuild it myself.

awh sorry to hear. How many miles and what mods were done?
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:13 PM   #18
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awh sorry to hear. How many miles and what mods were done?
30,000 kilometers (Canada), Hurst short throw, LCAs, bunch of body mods, Borla stingers, had an off-road h pipe before, tuner, diablo MAFia, 47 lb injectors and a single 70 mm turbo.
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Old 01-05-2014, 02:55 PM   #19
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30,000 kilometers (Canada), Hurst short throw, LCAs, bunch of body mods, Borla stingers, had an off-road h pipe before, tuner, diablo MAFia, 47 lb injectors and a single 70 mm turbo.

Ohhh I gotcha. It really seems like our cars hate turbos because I'm yet to hear a positive story. But anyways, good luck with it!
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Old 01-05-2014, 06:41 PM   #20
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Ohhh I gotcha. It really seems like our cars hate turbos because I'm yet to hear a positive story. But anyways, good luck with it!
Apparently so! Thanks scott, shes out!
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Old 01-07-2014, 12:29 PM   #21
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Apparently so! Thanks scott, shes out!

Nice!! See it wasn't that bad right?!
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Old 01-10-2014, 09:07 AM   #22
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---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 AM ----------

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Nice!! See it wasn't that bad right?!

I'm thinking about getting one of those cai. Is that the 87mm or the 92mm? Do you like it?
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Old 01-10-2014, 11:40 AM   #23
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---------- Post added at 10:07 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:06 AM ----------




I'm thinking about getting one of those cai. Is that the 87mm or the 92mm? Do you like it?

I believe it's the smaller one. And it's alright. A lot of people are suprised when open my hood because they've never seen it before on another mustang. But I don't mind it. I feel like you get more power gains out of a traditional one
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