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Old 01-02-2014, 10:32 PM   #1
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Miscellaneous turbo kit questions

I've recently bought a turbo kit for the car and looking into the little questions nobody thinks to ask. I need suggestions for a turbo blanket, header wrap, BOV and waste gate. And also what BOV and waste gate? I'm looking at a Duo-35 or Godzilla for the waste gate. And I'm looking at a Design engineering turbo blanket. Any opinions? I also need opinions on gauges too, preferably under $150 a piece for the gauges, but i don't want cheap inaccurate gauges either. I'm thinking as i type so I'll post more questions.
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Old 01-03-2014, 09:17 PM   #2
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Nobody seriously knows one thing??
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Old 01-04-2014, 04:30 AM   #3
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I'm sorry. I'm completely ignorant when it comes to turbo setups. D:
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:50 AM   #4
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You dont NEED a turbo blanket, but it does keep everything a little cooler.....Actually, a lot cooler. You dont even know how hot those pipes get until you have them for a bit then feel the radiating heat, its crazy. It changes the colour of all the pipes almost instantly. As far as BOB and Wastegates, you really can't go wrong with a good brand name. For BOV its all sound preference. HIS, has that high pitch squeal, turbo smart is just really loud, etc. Wastegates, go with something with a big brand name, or with something half way decent and get an electric/manual boost controller.
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Old 01-07-2014, 11:16 PM   #5
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Thanks for the reply, ive seen like 50mm bov and stuff? I'm kinda confused on how all that works. What would i need to make it an electronic boost controller? Would I buy a regular wastegate and bov? or does it have to be a matching wastegate for the boost controller?
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:17 AM   #6
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Thanks for the reply, ive seen like 50mm bov and stuff? I'm kinda confused on how all that works. What would i need to make it an electronic boost controller? Would I buy a regular wastegate and bov? or does it have to be a matching wastegate for the boost controller?
The size really doesnt matter, a larger bov will just get rid of pressure quicker with a different sound, its all the same really. And for Wastegates, size is just for spring reference. When it comes to electric boost controllers, they will work with any Wastegates. The electronic boost controller just acts as the spring in the Wastegate and controls the pressure. Lets say you're in the car and the boost controller is set to 9 lbs of boost. You can press the buttons on the controller inside the car in front of you to increase the boost to lets say 12 pounds, whereas with a wstegate, you would have to get out of the car, get under it, take apart the wategate, remove the old spring and add a new spring and then put it back together to get that 12 pounds of boost.
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Old 01-08-2014, 03:56 PM   #7
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Thanks a lot man. You pretty much nailed that lol for my fuel. To support 650 hp, what pump should I get? I understand that a lot of people are saying the get the gt500 pump and be done. But I honestly don't think that'll be enough.. Also. What about the injectors? Will 60 lbs be fine? Or just I want more injector like an 80?
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Old 01-08-2014, 05:30 PM   #8
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Thanks a lot man. You pretty much nailed that lol for my fuel. To support 650 hp, what pump should I get? I understand that a lot of people are saying the get the gt500 pump and be done. But I honestly don't think that'll be enough.. Also. What about the injectors? Will 60 lbs be fine? Or just I want more injector like an 80?
For 650, you could try and go with a 340 lph fuel pump with a kenne bell boost-a-pump with 60 lb injectors if you wanted to go the cheaper route, but you wont be going much higher for horsepower than that, you will be or will be close to maxing your fuel capacities. I didnt go with the duals because its pricy and I didn't want to go very high hp with this car. But if you wanna go big at some point, just spring for the gt500 pumps and then when you want to go even bigger, get a boost-a-pump to add on top of that! You shouldn't need 80's because that's only when going BIG. Youre just going to have to watch your tranny when you're going past 6/650. Also, when getting up this high, you will need traction so now you need new tires and control arms. Then, if you want to launch hard on all of that power, you will have to grab a new clutch to put it to the ground and then it will take its toll on your tranny. Then its time to upgrade the tranny to hold all the power reliably. For us, 650 doesnt seem like much because as mustang owners, we hear numbers thrown around all the time. We hear that the new Shelby gt500's have 662 horsepower. You have to remember, that's at the CRANK. By the time it gets to the wheels, it's about 560/570. 650 at the tires is a pretty big number and if you shed some weight off the car, it will run mid 9's with ease.

Oh and watch the internals! Dont even think of going over 450 on stock because I will guarentee that it will blow in a short amount of time! I stayed at 477 after detuning and it blew on the 6th day.
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Old 01-08-2014, 09:08 PM   #9
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For 650, you could try and go with a 340 lph fuel pump with a kenne bell boost-a-pump with 60 lb injectors if you wanted to go the cheaper route, but you wont be going much higher for horsepower than that, you will be or will be close to maxing your fuel capacities. I didnt go with the duals because its pricy and I didn't want to go very high hp with this car. But if you wanna go big at some point, just spring for the gt500 pumps and then when you want to go even bigger, get a boost-a-pump to add on top of that! You shouldn't need 80's because that's only when going BIG. Youre just going to have to watch your tranny when you're going past 6/650. Also, when getting up this high, you will need traction so now you need new tires and control arms. Then, if you want to launch hard on all of that power, you will have to grab a new clutch to put it to the ground and then it will take its toll on your tranny. Then its time to upgrade the tranny to hold all the power reliably. For us, 650 doesnt seem like much because as mustang owners, we hear numbers thrown around all the time. We hear that the new Shelby gt500's have 662 horsepower. You have to remember, that's at the CRANK. By the time it gets to the wheels, it's about 560/570. 650 at the tires is a pretty big number and if you shed some weight off the car, it will run mid 9's with ease.

Oh and watch the internals! Dont even think of going over 450 on stock because I will guarentee that it will blow in a short amount of time! I stayed at 477 after detuning and it blew on the 6th day.

Thanks a lot man. I think I'll just get he pumps and be done. I understand and have had a stang long enough to know that you'll have to upgrade pretty much everything. Clutch flywheel, getting a one piece shaft. Rear end stuff, getting internals for the motor (crank pistons rods rings) even getting a custom grind cam and possibly even custom head work. I think I'll keep the heads stock. They work great anyway. Already bought all the turbo stuff and some other things like gauge pods and a lot of lava heat wrap. Next is the turbo blanket then ill start on getting gauges and clutch. Actually found a place a little ways away that will make you a custom clutch for like a third of the price and warranty it. Then the flywheel. After all that comes the fuel. Man I've done my research on absolutely everything other than what I asked lol. This is gonna be a long process, and I mean long (like 10 months) I'll be installing everything myself then getting the gauges wired through and hooked up. I'll have the car tuned as well.
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:04 PM   #10
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Thanks a lot man. I think I'll just get he pumps and be done. I understand and have had a stang long enough to know that you'll have to upgrade pretty much everything. Clutch flywheel, getting a one piece shaft. Rear end stuff, getting internals for the motor (crank pistons rods rings) even getting a custom grind cam and possibly even custom head work. I think I'll keep the heads stock. They work great anyway. Already bought all the turbo stuff and some other things like gauge pods and a lot of lava heat wrap. Next is the turbo blanket then ill start on getting gauges and clutch. Actually found a place a little ways away that will make you a custom clutch for like a third of the price and warranty it. Then the flywheel. After all that comes the fuel. Man I've done my research on absolutely everything other than what I asked lol. This is gonna be a long process, and I mean long (like 10 months) I'll be installing everything myself then getting the gauges wired through and hooked up. I'll have the car tuned as well.
Thats awesome man! Good luck! If you wanna have some fun, work on it as you go! Just put the turbo on and get the fuel right away and run 6-7 lbs and get used to it and enjoy it, then slowly do the other stuff, then get internals last and then jump the boost to like 20 lbs! Trust me, I was apprehensive and thought it wouldn't make a big difference but its a HUGE difference!
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Old 01-08-2014, 10:31 PM   #11
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Well here's the thing. I have mutha Thumpr cams in it now. It's missing on two plugs (that are a month and a half old), it's missing an entire pulley (idler pulley, the one that prevents the belt from hitting the belt tensioner) and it's jumping time.. So this motor has been through hell man. I would do that but I don't trust it and it wouldn't last long. And would cot more money to tune it twice and get the gauges hooked up. I'll have to do it all at once somehow. Break in the clutch on the Dyno and break the motor in with a base tune, then go back for the real tune after the motor break in. It's a completely different block I'm putting in it.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:10 AM   #12
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I don't think you can use cams with a turbo setup. Most of the time stock is best I believe. You should Google it. There is prolly lots of info on this
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:11 AM   #13
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Miscellaneous turbo kit questions

They make turbo cams.. You can also use your stock cams. But turbo cams make quite the difference.
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:15 AM   #14
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They make turbo cams.. You can also use your stock cams. But turbo cams make quite the difference.
Yup pretty much this ^^
But turbos do so well on their own, I'm surprised ppl even do this lol
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Old 01-09-2014, 12:17 AM   #15
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Well I'm kinda debating on all this. Just doing a run through on the stock cams and getting the valve train beefed a little. Stock heads I'm not sure either. I just don't wanna regret it later!
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Old 01-16-2014, 04:43 AM   #16
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I'm thinking I'll keep my heads stock but just do valvetrain and cams. Save me alot of money for sure. Looking for an intake manifold now. Anybody have any preferences? I dont really want the frpp intake manifold.. I've seen too many videos of that thing flexing big time to want that.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:28 AM   #17
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The frpp manifold is suppose flex.ford made statements on the flex years ago when first came out. Ive had the manifold on my car for 20,000 plus miles and havent had any problems. Once i get back from korea, ill be puting on my hellion turbo kit and will be running the manifold with it. Hope this helps with your decision.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:30 AM   #18
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I know that mmr makes one but it literally costs an arm and a leg from your enemy.. its like 2 grand for it. So considering i dont have any options, i might as well get the frpp.
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Old 01-17-2014, 02:32 AM   #19
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Yea mmr intake is expensive... Another thing you might want to look at getting is a methanol injection kit. This will help to keeps your engine temps down greatly.
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Old 01-17-2014, 10:49 PM   #20
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I thought about it. Does it have similar downsides like nitrous?
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:19 AM   #21
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No there isnt any down sides to it just need to tune
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:21 AM   #22
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Well yeah i mean i knew that part, i just meant what does it cool? does it go to the turbo itself or intercooler or what.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:30 AM   #23
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Its like a nitrous system, keeps your iat temps down....meanings less stress on your engine.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:32 AM   #24
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Only work at WOT? Like nitrous, can you not hit the rev limiter? it doesn't need purging or anything? any bottle pressure?
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:48 AM   #25
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Once you you get it tuned you can have at wot or whenever you hit boost....there's no purging or anything like nitrous....the only thing you need is what is provided in the kit.
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Old 01-18-2014, 12:49 AM   #26
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So no gauges or anything for it? nothing?
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Old 01-18-2014, 01:44 AM   #27
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Just your gauges your using for your turbo kit....air/fuel, boost, and oil pressure
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Old 01-18-2014, 03:16 AM   #28
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Also take a lesson from my mistake.. Upgrade to a higher spline input shaft. Idk what the 2005-2009 has as an input shaft but mine is 10 spline and I didn't even think about it during my build before I went out and bought my high-dollar clutch and such.. If I could do it over I would 100% change to a 26 spline.

I drive a 2002 GT btw.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:20 AM   #29
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I was gonna post a picture of the clutch but it wont let me, so whatever. Anyway, i went ahead and bought a 26 spline clutch because i know if i didnt get that first, i would totally skip that part and regret it. Anybody know a thread or somebody you can pm to tell me all i would need and all that? i mean obviously the shaft itself and flywheel, but any additional info maybe.
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Old 01-29-2014, 03:41 AM   #30
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Do you have the stock 05-10 mustang trans.... cause if so you will need a 10 spine clutch instead
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Old 01-29-2014, 04:34 AM   #31
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I know man, but im doing the input shaft swap..
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:43 PM   #32
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Miscellaneous turbo kit questions

Still won't post pics..
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Old 01-29-2014, 10:45 PM   #33
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Miscellaneous turbo kit questions

What would I need for the swap?
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:02 AM   #34
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If you are doing it yourself here is a good write up.

http://www.svtperformance.com/forums...ation-pix.html
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Old 01-30-2014, 06:10 AM   #35
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Wow something that complicated i would screw up immediately.. To the tranny shop it is!
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