Would love to hear about your experience as you go forward since I am doing the same thing now except that in addition to welding the tubes and C-Clip Eliminators I am also shortening the housing 1" per side. Here we go....
The pieces - Strange Engineering kit, part number P3509F05S. The kit contains a 35 Spline Spool, assembled Axles with optional Reluctor Rings and Brake Caliper Mounts.
35 spline chrome-molly light weight spool.
Included with the axles are: Reluctor Rings, Bearing Sleeve / Reluctor Ring Adapters, Safetey Hub Outer Half, Axle Seal, Tapered Axle Bearing, Wedding Ring, Caliper Mount O-Ring and Wheel Studs. Shorter driver’s side axle on the left.
Brake Caliper Mounts, Driver’s side on the left part number A1098A, Passenger side on the right part number A1098B and the Hardware Kit used to fasten the Brake Caliper Mounts to the OEM Housing Ends. Note the provision for the OEM ABS Sensors in the Caliper Mounts.
Next up is preparing the housing ends to accept the Brake Caliper Mounts. It appears to be a little easier than it once was as the Caliper Mounts are designed to mate flush with the Backing Plate Register of the Housing. From searching some of the earlier C-Clip Eliminator install forum threads, earlier versions required that the Housing Snout be cut 1/16” from the Backing Plate Register.
But before I can cut the Housing Snout I need to remove the OEM Bearing and Seal. I have access to a suitable Axle Bearing Puller but need to beg borrow or steal a 5LB Slide Hammer.
Axle Seals and Bearings Removed
The OEM axle seals and bearings need to be removed in order to cut the ends off the axle tubes flush with the register. This is required for the C-Clip Eliminator kit.
OEM seal and bearing.
To remove the seals and bearings I used a 5lb Slide Hammer and Axel Bearing Puller.
Puller in position.
A few good slides on the hammer and out comes the seal and bearing. The OEM seal had a little sealer/glue on the back of the flange where it contacted the axel tube.
Was not sure on what the best method for cutting off the housing ends would be. In doing a little forum and web research could not find much on how it was done. I did find a Muscle Mustangs and Fast Ford article where they were cut with a reciprocating saw with the housing still in the car. Well I do not have the necessary skills to cut a straight line in flat metal with a reciprocating saw so I can only imagine what cutting a tube would look like. That said it took me all of about 2 seconds to eliminate the reciprocating saw. So I broke out my trusty hacksaw and with a new 32 tooth blade for each side went to work. It actually did not take very long and the cuts were pretty straight since I was able to use the register for a guide.
A few passes with a file and a quick Dremel with a small stone to clean the burrs from the inside of the tubing and we are all ready for the axles.
Cut flush with the Register
Driver’s Side Brake Caliper Mount trail fitted.
Axel slipped in for a look see.
Dropped the housing off at LE Chassis Engineering for shortening and welding the axle tubes. Housing measured 60-1/4” going in and will measure 58-1/4” coming home.
When I went to pick up the housing Luciano still had the diff in his jig so I snapped a couple of cell phone pictures showing how the rod and “pucks” worked to ensure integrity during welding.
Back home and I took a few pictures of his handy work.
Driver’s side axle tube end.
Driver’s side tube welded.
Passenger’s side tube welded.
Passenger’s side tube end.
Housing was narrowed 1” per side and now measures 58-1/4"”
I would be pleased to answer any question you may have.