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Old 04-28-2015, 12:55 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by fenixignition View Post
Nah seriously tho, I use the motorcraft because i trust it. But i have heard good things about Redline oil, and redline products in general.

Still hear good things about super tech. Not yet willing to put that in my engine. i sleep better at night with the motorcraft.
That's cool bro. I've been using super tech oil now for 11 years and my wife's vehicle hasn't blown the engine yet. Runs great with 150k plus miles.

Have a great day!
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Old 04-28-2015, 01:07 PM   #37
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That's cool bro. I've been using super tech oil now for 11 years and my wife's vehicle hasn't blown the engine yet. Runs great with 150k plus miles.

Have a great day!
Yep thats pretty much what ive been hearing. Not a single negative story. I just hope the contract doesnt end up going to some low quality defective stuff down the road.

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Old 04-28-2015, 01:48 PM   #38
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Probably the Best way would be to use synthetic oil. Change the filter every 3000 miles add a quart, then change the oil at 15,000 miles.
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Old 04-28-2015, 02:16 PM   #39
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The absolute very best engine oil you can buy

IT IS ANY BRAND WITH THIS SEAL ON THE CAN OR BOTTLE


As Long as you change it along with the filter at the mileage or time the bookYOUR MANUAL) tells you to change it depending on if using full synthetic or semi-synthetic.
Also you need to use the proper viscosity for your engine
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Old 04-29-2015, 03:43 PM   #40
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I use Rotella T6 in everything. My wife's CRV had a leaky cam seal, higher viscosity oil is a good band aid and it hasn't leaked since I went to the T6. My 2V Expy used to use a quart of oil ever 2000-3000 miles. No leaks, good compression across the board just did... Now it uses a quart every 5,000-6,000.


Rotella T6 is a legit full synthetic with a very high percentage of zinc in it. It is 5W-40 weight and that is fine for Mustang motors and really any others honestly. Still 5w for cold starts and 40 weight is not going to hurt a motor that specs 30 weight. The modular actually does spec 30 weight everywhere but the US due to CAFE standards. I'd rather my oil actually be the consistency of oil vs water when it gets hot... just saying.
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Old 04-29-2015, 07:54 PM   #41
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Rotella T is what I used in my Cummins diesel K.Y.

A very good oil for that truck.
***********************************BUT********************************************
I'm not really sure if it is what I would put in my Mustang or refer anyone to use in a 2011 up Mustang.
It is your cars "NOT MUSTANGS" that you are putting it in. I'm sure if you did buy a new Stang you would not put anything like Diesel Turbo oil in it.

Like The Ford Manual say's
Look for the seal on the can or bottle.
Quote:
As Long as you change it along with the filter at the mileage or time the bookYOUR MANUAL) tells you to change it depending on if using full synthetic or semi-synthetic.
Also you need to use the proper viscosity for your engine
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:02 PM   #42
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Of course Shell says you can use it in all 4 stroke engines

They also say it is a Diesel Turbo oil.
I do not see the seal on the jug at all.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:32 PM   #43
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Thats because its not approved for gasoline engines by api. It has a different label on it on the back tho. Goes by a different code. But for the most part, its the same thing, just more zinc, a few other additives. I looked into it before, some co workers were trying to convince everyone to use it, but I was still skeptical about it. I found some drawback, but I forgot what it was. Is too much zinc bad for catalytic converters? It was probably something else. But its 5w40 which is fine in a 4.6 or 5.4. But the newer 3.7 or 5.0, they are probably redesigned for thinner oil. I would still be more comfortable with 5w30 or 0w30 in those.

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Old 04-29-2015, 08:36 PM   #44
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The Boss uses 5w-40 so no, the Coyote (Roadrunner in the Boss) is G2G with this oil. I found no drawbacks before I made the switch and I've had a lot less mystery oil vanishing since I started.


And yes, it is designed for Diesel motors but it works great in gasoline engines too.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:38 PM   #45
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I use 5w-40. Will be swapping to 5w-50 next oil change.

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Old 04-29-2015, 08:48 PM   #46
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Well the first oil change was free from the dealership I purchased the car from, now that she is due again I will be switching AMSOIL. I ran Royal Purple in my 2002 GT for while and it worked great but is designed to be consumed in small quantities. However I kept finding myself topping it off and I wasn't leaking. For a car that had 65k miles and had always been well cared for burning a quart a month wasn't acceptable for me. So I switched to Mobile 1, and I run Mobile 1 top of the line in my 2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5 track car without issue, so like it has been said many times on here much of it is preference but you tend to get what you pay for. And most of all regular fluid changes and service will make for a happy car.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:51 PM   #47
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I use 5w-40. Will be swapping to 5w-50 next oil change.

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According to the internet you are an idiot and are going to go 2 miles before your motor explodes.



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Old 04-29-2015, 08:53 PM   #48
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Well the first oil change was free from the dealership I purchased the car from, now that she is due again I will be switching AMSOIL. I ran Royal Purple in my 2002 GT for while and it worked great but is designed to be consumed in small quantities. However I kept finding myself topping it off and I wasn't leaking. For a car that had 65k miles and had always been well cared for burning a quart a month wasn't acceptable for me. So I switched to Mobile 1, and I run Mobile 1 top of the line in my 2004 Mazdaspeed MX-5 track car without issue, so like it has been said many times on here much of it is preference but you tend to get what you pay for. And most of all regular fluid changes and service will make for a happy car.
Like I said I used to burn oil pretty good in the 5.4L and it probably was about a quart a month. Now she does a little under a quart in 5,000 miles. Higher weight for the modulars for sure. Will never run 20 weight again honestly. And as I mentioned before, every other country specs the 4.6L and 5.4L for 5w-30.
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Old 04-29-2015, 08:53 PM   #49
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I must really be stupid and really thick

I just can't figure out why not put the oil in your engine that is your supposed to use ??????????????????????????
I'm not talking about brands of oil but with all of the different brands making the proper oil for your engine, What makes a person think an Oil that is not made totally for their engine "BETTER"???????????

I guess I'm just stupid.
I do know one thing for sure---I will never ever buy a used car because I'm not really that stupid.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:00 PM   #50
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Because the 20 weight in the modular is not because it is designed for it, it is for CAFE standards. 40 weight works great and fixed my oil consumption issues just like all the reading I did said it would. Gets the same mileage as it did before and honestly, this Rotella is way cleaner on the dipstick at 5k miles than anything else I have ever used including M1. Still golden. Same WIX filters like I always use.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:08 PM   #51
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So question

I got my gt with 78k on it got oil changed at 81k and I was about a quart low. Went with full synthetic 5w20. Just got,it changed at 86 k and was half a quart low. Do you think 40 would help this?
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:28 PM   #52
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I'd give it a shot and see, not going to hurt your motor at all unless there is already something else wrong and its just coincidental. Did my oil in the truck at 116k. At 121k I finally got below the hash marks and threw another quart in. Will run probably another 5k before I change it.
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Old 04-29-2015, 09:31 PM   #53
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According to the internet you are an idiot and are going to go 2 miles before your motor explodes.



Lmao, maybe I should listen to them

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Old 04-29-2015, 09:34 PM   #54
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I just can't figure out why not put the oil in your engine that is your supposed to use ??????????????????????????
I'm not talking about brands of oil but with all of the different brands making the proper oil for your engine, What makes a person think an Oil that is not made totally for their engine "BETTER"???????????

I guess I'm just stupid.
I do know one thing for sure---I will never ever buy a used car because I'm not really that stupid.
Ronnie
Well depends on your setup.

Take mine for instance. A motor that Sees high rpm's alot needs a heavier weight oil.

5w30 does not last worth a **** in my car might as well use water.

5w40 does good
5w50 will do the trick.
I'm not a stock motor either.

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Old 04-30-2015, 08:19 AM   #55
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Hi Rapinator 126

Your car is not stock and I'm guessing you do have an accurate temperature Gage telling you exactly how hot your oil runs when you are tracking.
Here is some good information on Oil Viscosity:.


Viscosity is the most important property of a lubricant. Understanding viscosity promotes the ability to reduce wear, improve fuel economy and make more horsepower.

For starters, in oil nomenclature, “W” does not stand for “Weight”. It stands for “Winter” and that is the key to understanding viscosity grades. A 10W-30 is a multi-grade (two viscosities) motor oil, and as the name implies, it meets more than one grade. Forty years ago there were winter grades for cold weather and summer grades for warmer weather. A typical winter grade was 10W. A typical summer grade was 30. These oils were straight grade oils. A 10W flows well in cold weather, to protect the engine at start up, but it’s is too thin for use in the summer. A 30 grade grade oil, thick enough to protect in the heat, was recommended for summer use.

Then, multi-grade oils were formulated. A 10W-30 had the winter cold start flow properties of a 10W and the summer, high temperature thickness of a 30 grade. Multi-grade oils could stay as close to the optimum viscosity over a range of temperatures - not too thick when it is cold and not too thin when it is hot.

The difference between a 0W-30 and a 10W-30 is indicated by how well each flows at lower temperatures. The viscosity of hot oil is measured using different test parameters than when the oil is cold, so the numbers after the “W” don’t relate to the numbers in front of the “W”. The difference between 10W-30 and a 10W-40 is the high temperature viscosity. Obviously, a 10W-40 is thicker than a 10W-30 at high temperature.

Armed with knowledge of viscosity grades, how can we put it to good use? Remember that using oil with a viscosity that is too high can result in excessive oil temperature and increased drag. Using an oil with a low viscosity can lead to excessive metal to metal contact between moving parts. Using the correct viscosity oil eases starting, reduces friction and slows wear.

For even more effective start up protection, use a synthetic 10W-40 instead of a conventional 20W-50. The synthetic 10W-40 flows easily and still maintains enough viscosity to protect piston skirts and bearings when it gets hot. The improved temperature stability of synthetics make them a better choice for race engines and serious high performance engines. Even with a synthetic, however, viscosity changes with temperature. Selecting the correct viscosity for an application requires knowing the operating temperature of the oil. Engines that run high operating oil temperatures require higher viscosity oil.

Engines that run low oil temps require lower viscosity oil. Look at an NHRA Pro Stock engine, a NASCAR Sprint Cup engine and a World of Outlaws 410 Sprint engine. Each engine has a very different operating oil temperature – Pro Stock, 100°F; NASCAR, 220°F and sprint cars, 300°F. All three engines run very different viscosity oils as well − SAE 0W-5, SAE 5W-20 and SAE 15W-50.

Here’s another thought regarding viscosity. It is vitally important to keep internal engine clearances in mind. Looser clearances in the engine and oil pump require higher viscosity oil to maintain oil pressure. Tighter clearances need lower viscosity oil, which provides better cooling and improved horsepower.

Armed with knowledge of viscosity grades, you can now select the right one. In return, you will prevent wear, improve fuel economy and make more horsepower. If you have any questions regarding viscosity grades and selecting the correct viscosity lubricant, please contact your Motor State Sales Representiative, Driven Racing Oil or visit DrivenRacingOil.com.

*********************************************************************************************************

When I had my Corvette and ran around Daytona or any track my car never ran hot, I just used Mobil ! and the viscosity it suggested on the cap. ( I forget exactly) I never ever had an engine problem or overheating problem.
After the Corvette came the Mini John Cooper Works and just used the Mini BMW oil that the dealer put in doing my free service trips.

Your car has a fully modified race car engine and it may or may not be good to use the thick syrup in your engine but please don't try to say a daily driver needs 10W 50 motor oil. It won't probably hurt your engine but it sure could cause wear problems for an un-modified daily driver.

It does not take a genus to figure out that "NO" car manufacture needs to have their engines known as oil burners or having a fast wear out so you all probably know that they do a whole lot of testing on Motor Oil's as well as a viscosity for where you live and how people drive.

Ronnie
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Old 04-30-2015, 09:07 AM   #56
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how long is fords warranty? wasnt it like, 100k miles? I once found an awesome article about the differences in oil weights, but i cant find it any more. but basically stated that 0w30 synthetic would be awesome for our cars, since 5 is still pretty thick for startup. and that ford only tested 5w20 up to 100k miles of wear.

I have been curious about trying a 5w40 in my car. I personally think that the engine runs fine. But i dont know what driving a brand new mustang (4.6 2v) feels like. So I may give it a shot on my upcoming oil change, and see if it feels a bit tighter, and holds its oomph after being fully warmed up. I might be crazy, but i feel like there is a sweet spot right before it gets fully warmed up, where i have more power.
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Old 04-30-2015, 07:23 PM   #57
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You probably feel like it has more power when it's not quite warmed up because cooler air means more power.

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Old 04-30-2015, 08:37 PM   #58
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True, engine bay not all hot yet.

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Old 05-17-2015, 07:18 PM   #59
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If people didn't have different opinions about oils or any other product, a whole lot of companies would be out of business. Opinions are like a__holes, everyone has one, so research and make up your own mind.
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:43 PM   #60
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If people didn't have different opinions about oils or any other product, a whole lot of companies would be out of business. Opinions are like a__holes, everyone has one, so research and make up your own mind.
Except there ARE better oils than others. Be it what class oil you want or a real true 100% synthetic vs one that is a blend etc...

If you have an opinion that Motorcraft is as good as Amsoil... sorry some opinions are wrong.

That being said, 99% of people would be fine with a regular conventional oil and good filter every 5,000 miles no problem. If we are talking about high RPM engines that get raced a lot then you damn well better research to find an oil you know will work for your app vs just having an opinion about it.
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Old 05-17-2015, 07:52 PM   #61
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Scotty;
Note I didn't give an opinion, I said everyone has one. I'm running Amsoil, and am very happy with it. Others have their favorite and are happy with it. Again, research and decide.
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Old 05-29-2015, 11:05 AM   #62
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Just picked some up today. Extended performance baby. Top notch stuff now time to order my royal purple oil filter from AM. 10k mike oil change intervals been doing.

Have a great day!
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:38 PM   #63
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Or just buy a WIX from Napa. No idea why you'd pay the extra for the RP.
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Old 05-29-2015, 08:46 PM   #64
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I love purolator filters with their sandpaper exterior...makes life a lot easier


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Old 05-29-2015, 09:04 PM   #65
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I love purolator filters with their sandpaper exterior...makes life a lot easier


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I've never had one that had the rough exterior. If you are talking about the orange ones with the black sandpaper... those are the fram orange death cans and should never go anywhere near your car.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:07 PM   #66
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I've never had one that had the rough exterior. If you are talking about the orange ones with the black sandpaper... those are the fram orange death cans and should never go anywhere near your car.

Lord no...just any purolator filter now has them I think. It might just be the synthetic media ones that have it but I don't think so


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Old 05-29-2015, 09:15 PM   #67
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Hmmm, I just use the Wix ones and I've got one of the ratchet adapters for the Ford size.
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Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 05-29-2015, 09:16 PM   #68
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Royal purple all the way, including oil filter.

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Old 05-29-2015, 09:17 PM   #69
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I can't even anymore....somebody please get these people a copy of any oil test done by any independent lab


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Old 05-29-2015, 09:30 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 08Mustang View Post
I can't even anymore....somebody please get these people a copy of any oil test done by any independent lab


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Why don't you learn something about someone's specific build b4 you open your mouth, on the oil they choose.

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