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Old 06-28-2015, 12:54 AM   #141
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Well yeah if you are changing your oil once a year I guess... Nobody is arguing that its the best oil... just frickin expensive. I'd run it if I had a GT500 or a Boss tho.
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Old 06-28-2015, 12:56 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Waylap1 View Post
Are a lot of people running 5W30 in the Coyote? I've always thought the 5w20 was pretty thin but didn't want to stray from what Ford said to put in.

Check out this link waylap1

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/m...ity/index.html

It has a lot of different factors. How you drive, temp ect. It's a good read


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Old 06-28-2015, 12:58 AM   #143
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absolute best engine oil?

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Well yeah if you are changing your oil once a year I guess... Nobody is arguing that its the best oil... just frickin expensive. I'd run it if I had a GT500 or a Boss tho.

I wasn't trying to prove it was the best, just providing some facts as to its benefits. Such as a smoother running engine (as mentioned by a few), better MPG, extended life ect.

And honestly, it's 80 bucks shipped to my door for 2 gallons (what a coyote takes) and a filter. Mobil 1 is only ~20-25 bucks cheaper and I can run this twice as long IF I wanted to. Just saying. That's actually cheaper.

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Old 06-28-2015, 01:14 AM   #144
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For the people who are running Mobil 1 (not extended life) and are confused as to why we are telling you it's not a legit synthetic read below. Cliff notes is that there are different schedule synthetics. Group 4 is the only true synthetic. Group 3 through a government loop hole is allowed to be called synthetic however it's not a full true synthetic with all benefits of a group 4.

How do I know what motor oil is a Group IV (4) based PAO synthetic motor oil?
As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1 Extended Performance, as of this writing (12-16-2012), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including regular Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain OE and XL synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only a few Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "OE" and "XL" product name.
So as you can see, the average performance of motor oils can be affected by how they change during their service life. Multi grade petroleum can lose viscosity and thin causing accelerated wear as the VI additives shear back. Straight weight petroleum (i.e. SAE 30, SAE 40) thicken a lot as they cool meaning longer time before lubricant reaches critical parts on cold starts, but have no VI additives so they resists thinning. However, they can degrade and thicken as heat and by products of combustion affect the unsaturated chemistry. Group III (3) synthetics resists this degradation much better, but being petroleum based employ some VI additives which is a negative and typically don't have as good performance in the volatility viscosity retention areas. Only the Group IV (4) PAO base synthetics have the saturated chemistry to resist degrading when exposed to the by products of combustion and heat, plus typically employ no VI additives making them very thermally stable for longer periods. For this reason the Group IV (4) synthetics maintain peak mileage and power throughout their service life



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Old 06-28-2015, 06:09 AM   #145
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Enorym View Post
If there's no such thing your going to have a hard time explaining this.Attachment 185967
Oh you mean MOBIL 1 not MOBILE 1.
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:54 AM   #146
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I run Mobil 1 in everything i haven't had one issue. I change my mileage around 5-7500 miles and not an issue. My truck goes 7500 miles because i drive highway 100 miles+ a day.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:52 AM   #147
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^no doubt. I ran Mobil 1 in a Tacoma for 155k and that motor ran great when I traded it in. Again, no one is saying your going to have issues running Mobil 1. What is being said is they are selling you "full synthetic" through a loop hole in government requirements. There is a reason it's the cheapest "synthetic" out there. They use a cheaper base to start and add they put additives in the oil that can cause the oil to break down faster than a true synthetic.

It's a better oil than a conventional oil.

It's not actually full synthetic

As long as you realize this and know what your buying then your good. But just because something says on a package that it is something doesn't always mean that by definition that it is.




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Old 06-28-2015, 08:58 AM   #148
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Understand, but all i got is two v6's one sees offroad once a month, and the other sees track time maybe once every couple of months lol
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:59 AM   #149
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Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
For the people who are running Mobil 1 (not extended life) and are confused as to why we are telling you it's not a legit synthetic read below. Cliff notes to be is that there are different schedule synthetics. Group 4 is the only true synthetic. Group 3 through a government loop hole is allowed called synthetic however it's not a full true synthetic with all benefits of a group 4.

How do I know what motor oil is a Group IV (4) based PAO synthetic motor oil?
As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1 Extended Performance, as of this writing (12-16-2012), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including regular Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain OE and XL synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only a few Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "OE" and "XL" product name.
So as you can see, the average performance of motor oils can be affected by how they change during their service life. Multi grade petroleum can lose viscosity and thin causing accelerated wear as the VI additives shear back. Straight weight petroleum (i.e. SAE 30, SAE 40) thicken a lot as they cool meaning longer time before lubricant reaches critical parts on cold starts, but have no VI additives so they resists thinning. However, they can degrade and thicken as heat and by products of combustion affect the unsaturated chemistry. Group III (3) synthetics resists this degradation much better, but being petroleum based employ some VI additives which is a negative and typically don't have as good performance in the volatility viscosity retention areas. Only the Group IV (4) PAO base synthetics have the saturated chemistry to resist degrading when exposed to the by products of combustion and heat, plus typically employ no VI additives making them very thermally stable for longer periods. For this reason the Group IV (4) synthetics maintain peak mileage and power throughout their service life



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Excellent post sir. All true! Many of the called synthetic oils on the market are just Base III like Mobil 1. Correct me if I'm wrong but its my understanding that Mobil 1 extended performance is a Base IV true synthetic.

Its funny that people buy the regular Mobil 1 because the extended performance is a dollar more for the 5 qt bottle and 1 qt bottle over the regular Mobil 1. I buy the extended performance at $28 from Wal Mart for a 5 qt jug. Its like $27 for the regular Mobil 1 for the 5 qt jug from Wal Mart.



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Old 06-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #150
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I can get lucas through work for 30 bucks for 6 quarts, may just do that
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:02 AM   #151
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^as of the last published report you are correct. The extended life is the ONLY Mobil 1 that is a schedule IV PAO full Synthetic. So if you are getting in for a buck more you are making a great move.


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Old 06-28-2015, 09:20 AM   #152
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Great Recon View Post
Just upgraded from Mobil 1 to Amsoil, and from a Pennzoil filter to a Wix. Very pleased with the results.


Adventure till you drop.

What results are you pleased with? Your telling me that you feel a difference?
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:21 AM   #153
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I use the dollar general engine oil. It doesn't say full synthetic on it but I'm sure it is. I even put octane booster in my oil for extra lubrication.

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Old 06-28-2015, 09:22 AM   #154
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Oh you mean MOBIL 1 not MOBILE 1.

My apologies English is my second language.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:38 AM   #155
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I use the dollar general engine oil. It doesn't say full synthetic on it but I'm sure it is. I even put octane booster in my oil for extra lubrication.

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Probably adds an easy 67 hp too. I hear octane booster in the oil infuses the block with power.


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Old 06-28-2015, 09:47 AM   #156
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Probably adds an easy 67 hp too. I hear octane booster in the oil infuses the block with power.


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You can definitely feel the gains. This is a must for a rotary engine like the coyote.

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Old 06-28-2015, 09:59 AM   #157
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The V6 has had Mobil1 in it since it was bought. It has over 350000+ miles and makes more HP than most.
Had a thermostat failure once, engine temp rose high. Got it home, made the repair, oil change, and i was glad i had some added protection that day.
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Old 06-28-2015, 03:30 PM   #158
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I can get lucas through work for 30 bucks for 6 quarts, may just do that
That's a great deal. ,👍

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Old 06-28-2015, 07:29 PM   #159
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Do you even know what VI is

Quote:
Originally Posted by oxford5pointoh View Post
For the people who are running Mobil 1 (not extended life) and are confused as to why we are telling you it's not a legit synthetic read below. Cliff notes is that there are different schedule synthetics. Group 4 is the only true synthetic. Group 3 through a government loop hole is allowed to be called synthetic however it's not a full true synthetic with all benefits of a group 4.

How do I know what motor oil is a Group IV (4) based PAO synthetic motor oil?
As more and more large oil companies switched their "synthetic" motor oils to the less expensive/more profitable Group III (3) base stocks it has become much easier to identify which are PAO based true synthetic. Of the large oil companies, only Mobil 1 Extended Performance, as of this writing (12-16-2012), is still a PAO based true synthetic. The rest, including regular Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge have switched to the cheaper/more profitable Group III (3) petroleum based "synthetic" motor oil. AMSOIL Synthetic Motor Oils are PAO based true synthetic motor oils with the exception of the short oil drain OE and XL synthetic motor oils sold at some Auto Parts Stores and Quick Oil Change Centers. This leaves more than 20 PAO based true synthetic motor oils manufactured and marketed by AMSOIL with only a few Group III (3) based synthetic motor oils identified by the "OE" and "XL" product name.
So as you can see, the average performance of motor oils can be affected by how they change during their service life. Multi grade petroleum can lose viscosity and thin causing accelerated wear as the VI additives shear back. Straight weight petroleum (i.e. SAE 30, SAE 40) thicken a lot as they cool meaning longer time before lubricant reaches critical parts on cold starts, but have no VI additives so they resists thinning. However, they can degrade and thicken as heat and by products of combustion affect the unsaturated chemistry. Group III (3) synthetics resists this degradation much better, but being petroleum based employ some VI additives which is a negative and typically don't have as good performance in the volatility viscosity retention areas. Only the Group IV (4) PAO base synthetics have the saturated chemistry to resist degrading when exposed to the by products of combustion and heat, plus typically employ no VI additives making them very thermally stable for longer periods. For this reason the Group IV (4) synthetics maintain peak mileage and power throughout their service life



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Old 06-28-2015, 07:44 PM   #160
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Best oil

I can get all technical up in you @sses,cause I been a test engineer ( yes I can spell it) in lubricant testing for 26 years.
By a Gf-5 quality oil and run a 5W-20 grade. Unless you've done something stupid like install the ghost cam tune. Don't forget your OIL helps drive your variable valve timing and this engine was DESIGNED for a 5w-20. Altering that may alter how your engine responds to timing change commands. As far as what is the best, the specifications for approval ( Google ilsac GF-5, ASTM d4485) and you'll get and idea of the level of testing that goes into approval process to get that donut on the bottle. These are minimum performance spec's, so every one has to meet them and document that they were run in a calibrated laboratory, even the bench tests. It's over half a million bucks in testing to get that donut. If it don't have it (the donut) dont by it. If Mobil 1 or Royal Purple gives you a warm fuzzy, by it!. As long as it has a donut feel safe in buying it. As far as test results for approval, nobody but the oil formulator an API see them. I know these things to be absolutly true. Haters, have at it!
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Old 06-28-2015, 07:49 PM   #161
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I run 5w-30 and every once in awhile 5w-40

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Old 06-28-2015, 07:49 PM   #162
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I can get all technical up in you @sses,cause I been a test engineer ( yes I can spell it) in lubricant testing for 26 years.
By a Gf-5 quality oil and run a 5W-20 grade. Unless you've done something stupid like install the ghost cam tune. Don't forget your OIL helps drive your variable valve timing and this engine was DESIGNED for a 5w-20. Altering that may alter how your engine responds to timing change commands. As far as what is the best, the specifications for approval ( Google ilsac GF-5, ASTM d4485) and you'll get and idea of the level of testing that goes into approval process to get that donut on the bottle. These are minimum performance spec's, so every one has to meet them and document that they were run in a calibrated laboratory, even the bench tests. It's over half a million bucks in testing to get that donut. If it don't have it (the donut) dont by it. If Mobil 1 or Royal Purple gives you a warm fuzzy, by it!. As long as it has a donut feel safe in buying it. As far as test results for approval, nobody but the oil formulator an API see them. I know these things to be absolutly true. Haters, have at it!
5W 20 is fine but personally I run 5W 30. I am confident nothing bad will happen to my engine. 👍5W 20 weight is nothing but for CAFE regulations here in the U.S.

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Old 06-28-2015, 07:51 PM   #163
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absolute best engine oil?

5w-30 in the Roush, but 2 of my cars get 20w-50.


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Old 06-28-2015, 07:55 PM   #164
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You are from Texas and convential wisdom there is the heat is a large reason for going with a higher vis grade. The Japanese are pushing 0w-16 and 0w-8 for GF-6. I'm not saying it'll, 5-30 or 5-40 destroy your motor, you'll be fine, but recognize they designed all components of this engine to run on 5w-20's
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:00 PM   #165
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Only reason I run 5w30 or 5w40 is bc I'm not a stock motor and it sees 8k regularly when it's driven

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Old 06-28-2015, 08:08 PM   #166
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I get it!
I occasionally take mine to the strip.
It never sees rain or snow it's never been above 7 k.
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:10 PM   #167
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Pfft, my truck i've put in, 0-20 520 530 540 and 1030 because it was all i had. Never acted any different.....

Mustang will run on 530 it's entire lift due to florida climate
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Old 06-28-2015, 08:24 PM   #168
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absolute best engine oil?

Reg is that directed at me since you quoted my post?


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Old 06-28-2015, 09:09 PM   #169
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I don't even use oil now that I am catless.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:26 PM   #170
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Wow, I really learned a lot about Motor Oil on this .

I learned you don't trust what it says on the bottle.
Mobile 1 is not a good oil to use at all.
Royal Purple is the best.
Amsoil is the best.
Castrol Edge is crap and do not use it.
Shell Rotella is the best.
Never use the viscosity that the engine manufacture tells you to use.
Thicker oils is best.
The thicker the better.
Don't worry if this is not on the can because it does not mean a thing.


I'm sure happy that I have all of this factual information so when I change oil the next time I can just stick some Ford Motorcraft full synthetic oil and one of their crummy filters on it and change it every 1,000 miles or so. I'm guessing the Motorcraft is not really a full synthetic either.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:33 PM   #171
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Originally Posted by ronnie948 View Post
I learned you don't trust what it says on the bottle.
Mobile 1 is not a good oil to use at all.
Royal Purple is the best.
Amsoil is the best.
Castrol Edge is crap and do not use it.
Shell Rotella is the best.
Never use the viscosity that the engine manufacture tel you to use.
Thicker oils is best.
The thicker the better.
Yes depending on your application. Not everyone runs a factory sealed engine. You have to have a open mind and not thinking everyone's application is the same. 5w20 is like water in my car.

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Old 06-28-2015, 09:51 PM   #172
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Well seeing as Motorcraft says "synthetic blend" right on the bottle... Nobody is saying M1 is not a good oil btw, just saying that its not a true full 100% syn and there are better options out there but not for the money. Especially if you get the M1 Extended Performance.


Not to mention the original spec for the 4.6L WAS 5w-30. Heck, my hood decal still says 5w-30 while the cap says 5w-20.


Rap I thought you were running 15w-50 or something?


5w-20 is just too goddamn thin. Every motor I've had going up to 100k+ and using 20 weight has started to have minor leaks and/or oil usage here and there. Going to 30 weight or up to 40 weight has fixed that every time.
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Old 06-28-2015, 09:57 PM   #173
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Scotty. No sir 5w-30 or 5w-40 mainly 40
It's had a 5w50 in it b4 but it's hard to come by.

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Old 06-28-2015, 10:03 PM   #174
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absolute best engine oil?

We've been selling a lot of Kendall synthetic. I'm not sure if it's III or not. I've been putting in my truck for 10K+ miles and it's running better than the Pennzoil I usually run. But our best seller is Mobil 1 by far. Which we work on a lot of euro cars, that state use Mobil 1. It might not be the best, but it's a good choice. But most of our customers have a preferred oil they use. It might not be the best but it's what they want.
After talking with my boss, over things I've learned on this forum, we've ordered the IV spec Mobil 1. It's in a few cars now so we'll see what it looks like when the cars come back.


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Old 06-28-2015, 11:12 PM   #175
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Originally Posted by The Great Recon View Post
We've been selling a lot of Kendall synthetic. I'm not sure if it's III or not. I've been putting in my truck for 10K+ miles and it's running better than the Pennzoil I usually run. But our best seller is Mobil 1 by far. Which we work on a lot of euro cars, that state use Mobil 1. It might not be the best, but it's a good choice. But most of our customers have a preferred oil they use. It might not be the best but it's what they want.
After talking with my boss, over things I've learned on this forum, we've ordered the IV spec Mobil 1. It's in a few cars now so we'll see what it looks like when the cars come back.


Adventure till you drop.
I'm really surprised to see the people using Mobil 1 not paying two dollars more for the Extended Performance. Its such a small difference in price between the two yet the extended performance is a true base IV synthetic oil and for 2 dollars more at Wally World.

If there was evidence that Engine A using Amsoil lasted longer than same engine A using Mobil 1 extended performance, I would buy Amsoil.

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