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Old 05-01-2015, 09:24 PM   #1
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Roush CAI Issues

Hey guys, I'm having an issue with the CAI and was wondering what you guys think I should do. I purchased a Roush CAI about a month ago. I purposely bought it because it says on the website that it doesn't need a tune. The install went fine and it looks good under the hood. It ran fine for the first 10-14 days but about two weeks ago I noticed it running a little rough. It has gotten slightly worse since then until yesterday when I started up the car and now I see the check engine light on. The car still runs but I'm afraid to drive it because I don't want to get stuck somewhere if it decides to fully die and not be able to start. Do you think I just need to break down and buy a tuner? I'm not necessarily opposed to buying a tuner but was trying to put it off a while because of the cost. Could there be something wrong with the MAF? I did install the restrictive tube so not sure why it is running and idling low. Has anyone else had issues with the Roush CAI?


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Old 05-01-2015, 09:40 PM   #2
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I think it would be wise to find out what DTC the car is throwing. If we knew what it was we could help you more.


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Old 05-01-2015, 09:50 PM   #3
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Do you have exhaust on the car? Completely different make and model but with my old camaro I had slp loud mouth exhaust (straight through no muffler exhaust) and a lid (essentially an intake) and occasionally it would throw a cel code for the O2 sensors. I would assume it was from so much better flow. Never caused any major issues but sometimes with how sensitive new CPUs can be one single part may not need a tune but when you combine several it may throw an occasional code.


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Old 05-01-2015, 09:54 PM   #4
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Sorry forgot to mention on initial post, the CAI is the only mod that I've got so far. Everything else is stock.


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Old 05-01-2015, 09:55 PM   #5
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Roush CAI Issues

Did you oil the filter? If so how much did you use?


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Old 05-01-2015, 10:36 PM   #6
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Ok, I'm an idiot. I forgot to oil the filter. The filter didn't come with any oil in the box and it didn't mention it in the instructions so I thought it was a dry filter. I just checked the website and it is supposed to be oiled. What kind of oil am I supposed to use on the filter?

Do you think the lack of oil on the CAI is the main culprit for the check engine light?


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Old 05-01-2015, 10:51 PM   #7
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Main? Maybe. The oil should be available at any parts store. Lightly cloak it, nothing too heavy. If you over do it you could cause it to run bad (oil getting on MAF, we deal with it often). While at the parts store find out the code.


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Old 05-01-2015, 11:02 PM   #8
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Good idea, I will head to the auto parts store in the morning. Thanks!


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Old 05-02-2015, 03:54 PM   #9
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Let us know if it helped.

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Old 05-02-2015, 04:37 PM   #10
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Ok, so I just got back from the auto store. I purchased some Spectre air filter cleaner and oil as it was the only brand they had. Will this be ok for the CAI I have?

As far as the code it is throwing, it showed two different ones. They are
P0303
P0316

The error message states:

Misfire Detected in #3 Cylinder

I haven't done anything with the filter yet, do you guys think cleaning and oiling the filter will fix this issue? Or should I take it to a auto repair shop for further analysis?


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Old 05-02-2015, 04:39 PM   #11
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Forgot to add what kind of car I have, it is a 2006 GT with about 69k miles. The car was running fine before I put on the filter.


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Old 05-02-2015, 06:16 PM   #12
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Omg dude, if your "CAI" is already causing your previously perfect running car to have a check engine light, It sure as heck would throw gasoline on the fire by soaking it in oil! Oiled filters cause OIL to get on your MAF and cause more problems.
Take off that new hot air intake and put it back stock.
And welcome to the world of gimmicky, do nothing, high cost "mods"
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Old 05-02-2015, 06:25 PM   #13
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Roush CAI Issues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Waylap1 View Post
Omg dude, if your "CAI" is already causing your previously perfect running car to have a check engine light, It sure as heck would throw gasoline on the fire by soaking it in oil! Oiled filters cause OIL to get on your MAF and cause more problems.
Take off that new hot air intake and put it back stock.
And welcome to the world of gimmicky, do nothing, high cost "mods"

You need to pay attention what section your in. An 06 gt had a crappy factory intake so you will see gains by simply bolting on a new one without a tune. It wasn't until 2011 that ford actually had a decent intake on the Mustangs

To the op, rough isn't going to sell a filter that needs oil without it being pre oiled so likely that isn't the issue. Have you tried pulling the spark plugs and seeing how they look? With almost 70 k it may just be a maintenance issue (bad plug or coil) and completely unrelated to your intake.


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Old 05-02-2015, 06:56 PM   #14
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I haven't checked the plugs but I wouldn't be surprised if they are the factory originals. Been waiting to tackle that project because of the horror stories I've read on this forum about them breaking. You think it may just be a coincidence that this starting occurring after I installed the filter?


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Old 05-02-2015, 07:02 PM   #15
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I think starz is right. You need to change the spark plugs first. It can't hurt, most likely will fix the issue. And if it doesn't you have new spark plugs and you know that's not the problem.
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Old 05-02-2015, 07:11 PM   #16
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there is a chance that it could be completely unrelated. Since cylinder 3 is the one throwing the code I would see if that plug is easy to pull and then pull another and see how they look compared to one another. Another thing you can do is swap 2 of the coils and see if the code follows the swapped coil.

Also did you check the intake to make sure that nothing wiggled loose and there are no vacuum leaks? That would cause the issues your describing as well although i dont see how that would relate to a single cylinder misfiring (but not impossible).
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Old 05-02-2015, 08:35 PM   #17
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Ok I guess I will try changing out the plugs. I haven't done it on a car in a long time so a little nervous. I will try to go and search the old posts on this forum for the tips and tricks. What kind of plugs or brand should I buy? I'm limited to what I can purchase at autozone or O'Reilly's.


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Old 05-02-2015, 08:49 PM   #18
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Roush CAI Issues

Oriellys is 10x better than autozone, that's a fact. Oriellys should be able to supply you with motorcraft spark plugs, and/or better quality plugs.


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Old 05-02-2015, 08:49 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by StarzTA17 View Post
there is a chance that it could be completely unrelated. Since cylinder 3 is the one throwing the code I would see if that plug is easy to pull and then pull another and see how they look compared to one another. Another thing you can do is swap 2 of the coils and see if the code follows the swapped coil.

Also did you check the intake to make sure that nothing wiggled loose and there are no vacuum leaks? That would cause the issues your describing as well although i dont see how that would relate to a single cylinder misfiring (but not impossible).

I thought about flipping two of the coils as you suggested before going to auto parts store to purchase plugs just to make sure it isn't the coil. If the coil is bad, will the code reader automatically pick that up or do I have to do something to get the check engine light to recheck?


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Old 05-02-2015, 08:50 PM   #20
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Roush CAI Issues

A high quality scan tool can monitor your misfires and other vehicle data.


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Old 05-02-2015, 08:55 PM   #21
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Ok cool. Next question, which cylinder is cylinder 3? And is it perfectly fine to swap the coils from the cylinder next to it?


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Old 05-02-2015, 09:07 PM   #22
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Passenger side 3rd cylinder from the front. And no it will not harm your engine. It's a test to make sure it's the coil.


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Old 05-02-2015, 09:12 PM   #23
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Yes it should be fine to swap coils. Looking on a few parts websites and american muscle they just sell coils and not 8 separate part numbers.

What I would do is swap coils and disconnect the battery for 10-15 minutes which should clear the code. And then drive the car until the code comes back (assuming it does) and then see what the code number is.

If your sitting in the drivers seat the cylinders on the drivers side of the car are 1, 2, 3, and 4 (1 being closest to the drivers seat). And then 5, 6, 7, and 8 are on the passenger side with 5 being closest to the passengers seat.
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Old 05-02-2015, 11:57 PM   #24
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I'm still a little confused as to which cylinder is cylinder 3. It seems like the last two responses contradict each other, or I'm just misunderstanding. Either way, to cover all bases, I just swapped the two middle coils on both sides of the engine. I then disconnected the battery for about 15 minutes and then started the car. The check engine light is now off. I drove the car around for about 20 minutes and its still not running good. I will drive the car some more tomorrow and see if I can get the light to come back on. If it does, I will take it to the auto store again to get the code. Will keep you all posted. Thank you very much for the help.


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Old 05-10-2015, 06:56 AM   #25
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1 and 5 are on the front. 1 is to the left if your standing in front of the car.


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Old 08-23-2015, 08:26 AM   #26
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I just realized I never came back to update and close this thread. I switched the coils around and the failure still stayed with cylinder 3. I ended up changing the spark plugs and that fixed the issue. Sorry for the delayed response, but I did want to thank everyone for their input and let them know what the actual fix was.


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Old 08-23-2015, 10:26 PM   #27
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Did you change the spark plugs yourself? How did that go?


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Old 08-25-2015, 12:25 AM   #28
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Nah it was in the middle of me moving across the country and didn't have time and tools were packed up. Took it to shop and they changed them. It runs good now.


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