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Old 05-19-2015, 10:38 PM   #36
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Very nice and some great advice has been given here. Sounds like you're one the right track.!
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Old 05-19-2015, 10:48 PM   #37
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So, did you have the car inspected?


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Old 05-19-2015, 10:58 PM   #38
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So, did you have the car inspected?


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Nope, waiting for the dealer the tuning shop they use is closed Sunday - Tuesday so hopefully tommrow i go
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Old 05-19-2015, 11:01 PM   #39
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Excellent. So the new tune is 450 Rwhp, correct?


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Old 05-19-2015, 11:35 PM   #40
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Excellent. So the new tune is 450 Rwhp, correct?


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I'm picking up the dyno sheet from the tuning shop tommrow i don't remember exact numbers, think it was 467 rwhp
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Old 05-20-2015, 11:09 AM   #41
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Watch out at that power level if the rotating assembly is stock. I could turn my 2v up to that level with the replacement motor If I wanted but it would be on borrowed time.

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Old 05-20-2015, 11:32 AM   #42
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Longtubes, bungs and Scottys observation about safe sex. Kinda a trifecta here.

OP, nice ride and if those are NY plates consider my cruise this weekend in Western MA
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:45 PM   #43
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Old 05-20-2015, 09:48 PM   #44
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Nice perfectly fine power level on a stock motor 3v, with a good tune.

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Old 05-21-2015, 07:28 AM   #45
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Even with the stock rods? Wonder if I could turn the 2v up that high when I get the replacement motor in... Probably going to keep it at 425 ish...

But that sort of power out of a 3v is going to surprise a lot of ppl and that car itself is gorgeous.

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Old 05-21-2015, 08:18 AM   #46
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Even with the stock rods? Wonder if I could turn the 2v up that high when I get the replacement motor in... Probably going to keep it at 425 ish...

But that sort of power out of a 3v is going to surprise a lot of ppl and that car itself is gorgeous.

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Everyone says the magic # with the 3v is 450. I believe anything under 500 with a good tune will be fine. Alot has to do with how you treat the car also.
I know my old 3v made at least 5 or slightly over with the 75 shot on top of the blower. And it never let go while I had it.

Your new motor a 100% stock 2v?

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Old 05-21-2015, 10:03 AM   #47
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Yeah its a stock pullout from a 2005 Vic (Marquis). Just wanting to get the car back on the road and then I'll find something to build on the side.

Unsure what is different about the 3V rotating assy itself, AFIAK its the same rods/pistons/crank just with the 3V valvetrain obviously and the aluminum block. A lot of it probably is in the tune and not overrevving the motor.
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:25 AM   #48
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Even with the stock rods? Wonder if I could turn the 2v up that high when I get the replacement motor in... Probably going to keep it at 425 ish...

But that sort of power out of a 3v is going to surprise a lot of ppl and that car itself is gorgeous.

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Thanks man!
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:27 AM   #49
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Cars still running 10 lbs if boost
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Old 05-21-2015, 10:34 AM   #50
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Besides the planned brake upgrade; are planning to put any more goodies on the car?


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Old 05-21-2015, 01:29 PM   #51
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Besides the planned brake upgrade; are planning to put any more goodies on the car?


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I would really like to upgrade the breaks soon but besides that i'm only throwing in some gauges and gonna leave it how it is, maybe a roush grille but thats about it
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Old 05-21-2015, 02:51 PM   #52
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I'm having trouble finding a shop to do the bung, cause my headers are aluminum👎
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Old 05-21-2015, 04:56 PM   #53
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Find a shop that doesn't suck? You sure your headers are aluminum? I really doubt they are. Maybe ALUMINIZED which is not aluminum. That's just steel.

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Old 05-21-2015, 05:07 PM   #54
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Find a shop that doesn't suck? You sure your headers are aluminum? I really doubt they are. Maybe ALUMINIZED which is not aluminum. That's just steel.

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The shops are saying they're aluminum, im pretty sure they're stainless steel
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Old 05-21-2015, 06:53 PM   #55
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They aren't aluminum, any shop that can't tell aluminum from aluminized or stainless should not be in business.

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:44 PM   #56
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They aren't aluminum, any shop that can't tell aluminum from aluminized or stainless should not be in business.

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They tried talking me into a aeroforce gauge that plugs into the odb, but that would be reading the 02's and not be accurate. Correct?
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:47 PM   #57
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They tried talking me into a aeroforce gauge that plugs into the odb, but that would be reading the 02's and not be accurate. Correct?
It's verry accurate. It's what I run for my air/fuel readings

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:48 PM   #58
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It's verry accurate. It's what I run for my air/fuel readings

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I thought That worked on coyotes and not 3vs for some reason
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:50 PM   #59
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I thought That worked on coyotes and not 3vs for some reason
That's right. He does have a 3v completely 4got that. It will still work, he will just have to get the air/fuel sensor kit also.

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:51 PM   #60
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So no matter what something has to get welded in right?
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Old 05-21-2015, 09:53 PM   #61
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So no matter what something has to get welded in right?
Yes, it's worth it though. The aeroforce monitors countless things.

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Old 05-21-2015, 09:55 PM   #62
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Yes, it's worth it though. The aeroforce monitors countless things.

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Yeah I really really need to do it. Probably before my cams get dropped in.
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Old 05-21-2015, 11:39 PM   #63
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Everyone should have a wideband. Guarantee most ppl running canned tunes are running rich and have no idea because they won't spend the $140 on a basic wideband and another $20 to get a bung welded in at any exhaust shop. And if the tune is making the motor go lean...
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:01 AM   #64
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Everyone should have a wideband. Guarantee most ppl running canned tunes are running rich and have no idea because they won't spend the $140 on a basic wideband and another $20 to get a bung welded in at any exhaust shop. And if the tune is making the motor go lean...
I'm 99.9 percent positive I am rich. Better rich than lean I suppose. Could it be welded in right before the upstream o2?
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:06 AM   #65
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That's where you want it, on the driver's side.


Here is where I had them put mine on my new X pipe.





You want the wideband to be the first thing in the exhaust stream on that side.
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:08 AM   #66
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Ok so as long as it is in front of the o2 we are all good. I shall take the plunge soon. Side note where are you putting the actual gauge?
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Old 05-22-2015, 12:17 AM   #67
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Well I have a SN95 so that's not a super lot of use to you in a S197. I will, however, recommend these guys from a pillar gauge pod that does not suck.


Speed of Sound 2005+ Ford Mustang gauge double and triple gauge pillars


But as for me, I'm getting the autometer cluster bezel pod, probably going to have the above company do a dual setup for me when they startup their 99-04 service again to replace the autometer dual screw in meh unit in there now. Might do the steering column cover gauge pod for the wideband. Probably will honestly. I've got the correct interior dye to match it to charcoal.
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Old 05-22-2015, 05:56 AM   #68
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Joined the s197 club😎

Got quoted 100$ for the weld, gonna stop and check a few different shops
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Old 05-22-2015, 07:13 AM   #69
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The ROUSH vent pods work well, that's what I used for my A/F and my boost gauge. I'll take a pic today and post later.



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Old 05-22-2015, 07:19 AM   #70
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Get the pillar. The roush pod is inconvenient you have to take your eyes off the road to see it clearly. Which is dumb. And when you are 100% throttle is when you want to see your air/fuel readings.
I have had the roush pod in my last 2 mustangs also. Leave it for something you don't need to see at all times. Such as boost/nitrous pressure ect.
Leave air/fuel for the pillar you can still see it while looking ahead of you.


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