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Old 10-17-2015, 05:54 PM   #1
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Line on rotor

Hey guys, this is my first post on here so here it goes. My 08 Bullitt driver side wheel has been squeaking about a week now, I just want to know what this line I noticed meant and what to do. I'm thinking my rotor just needs resurfacing but I'm also thinking I should check the pads too, they should be good because when I bought the car a month ago, the dealer said they replaced all the breaks and resurfaced the rotors. So what do you think it is and what should I do. Thanks.

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Old 10-17-2015, 08:57 PM   #2
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hey guys, this is my first post on here so here it goes. My 08 bullitt driver side wheel has been squeaking about a week now, i just want to know what this line i noticed meant and what to do. I'm thinking my rotor just needs resurfacing but i'm also thinking i should check the pads too, they should be good because when i bought the car a month ago, the dealer said they replaced all the breaks and resurfaced the rotors. So what do you think it is and what should i do. Thanks.

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don't see anything other than normal. Looks like you may be a heavy braker and overheated them at some point.
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Old 10-17-2015, 10:07 PM   #3
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Ok, maybe, is there a way to stop it from squeaking, or will it go away on its own?

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Old 10-18-2015, 08:37 PM   #4
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yes take the pads off chamber / \ the ends like this and deglase them. if you left the shims off put them back finally try not to overheat them
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:30 PM   #5
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I'd like to see the other side..right side disc to see the comparison. Something is wrong and my guess would be the brake pad...hard to say without seeing it and usually today all pads are chamfered...I've put in quite a few in the past years from all different makes...including my 14 TrakPak Mustang.
Really, both discs should like like mine....
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:31 PM   #6
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The pictures didn't come through....The first picture are the front brakes with OE pads and 10k miles and the rear are OE pads with about 3000 miles.
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Old 10-18-2015, 09:37 PM   #7
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I was kinda thinking the pad as well, I'm taking it to the dealer in the morning so they can look at it. I will post the right side but it looks similar to yours, no visible line, and I will let you guys know what the issue was, thank you guys for the help.

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Old 10-18-2015, 10:07 PM   #8
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Let us know what they say after taking it to the dealer.
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Old 10-18-2015, 11:24 PM   #9
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I'd like to see the other side..right side disc to see the comparison. Something is wrong and my guess would be the brake pad...hard to say without seeing it and usually today all pads are chamfered...I've put in quite a few in the past years from all different makes...including my 14 TrakPak Mustang.
Really, both discs should like like mine....
been retired 15 years so don't know if modern pads are chambered or not.they didn't in use to be even on fords
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Old 10-19-2015, 09:13 AM   #10
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been retired 15 years so don't know if modern pads are chambered or not.they didn't in use to be even on fords
In the past few years I've done my 2008 Dodge Hemi 1500, wife's 2010 Venza, Nissan Ultama, and my 2014 TrakPak(these were OE)....they all had chamfered pads.
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Old 10-19-2015, 10:06 AM   #11
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Could be a piece of foreign material stuck between rotor and pad. Makes a horrible noise until its removed.

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Old 10-19-2015, 12:18 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the input, so the dealer said everything is fine and the brakes and rotors are good. The brakes are about a month old, so my next guess would be that they are still getting broken in.

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Old 10-19-2015, 12:23 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the input, so the dealer said everything is fine and the brakes and rotors are good. The brakes are about a month old, so my next guess would be that they are still getting broken in.

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How many miles have been put on the car since the brakes were changed?
I assume this is a used car dealer or is it a Ford dealer?
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Old 10-19-2015, 12:40 PM   #14
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About 1600 mi. It is a GMC dealer and I bought it from their used lot.

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Old 10-19-2015, 12:45 PM   #15
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The brakes should be well broken in by now. If there was no problem both front brakes would look the same.
Did you ask why one disc looks fine the other has all those grooves?
Wish I was closer and I'd take the pads off and see what the problem is as something is not right...IMHO
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:40 PM   #16
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I think you need to get someone else to look at it....NOT the person who is going to have to eat the cost if it ain't right. if you want and don't know how Google how to check brake pads...it's easy just pull the rims off and look at them

I see AFB in your location...just ask a buddy to look if needed.

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Old 10-19-2015, 01:48 PM   #17
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Sorry for my bad manners and
I didn't even see the AFB. If you know any mechanics on base maybe you could have one look at it for you. I also bought my 14 from a Chevy dealer and even though it only had 2700 miles I would not have taken it back to them.
If you do take the pads out for inspection the calipers are not like the old ones where you can just squeeze the pistons back into their bore....you need to twist them as they are compressing....I think you could go on YouTube and see it done. The special tool you need is like $11 at NAPA or other auto parts stores.
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Old 10-19-2015, 01:53 PM   #18
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Yea, I'm going to pull the breaks off and check them out, I'll keep you guys updated and if I have any more questions, thanks again

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Old 10-20-2015, 09:39 AM   #19
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Well after some driving the squeaking stopped, so I'm going to keep a eye on it

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Old 10-20-2015, 10:37 AM   #20
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if you haven't yet look at the pads...I don't know your dealer but I prefer to verify their work.

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Old 10-20-2015, 06:37 PM   #21
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sorry for my bad manners and
I didn't even see the afb. If you know any mechanics on base maybe you could have one look at it for you. I also bought my 14 from a chevy dealer and even though it only had 2700 miles i would not have taken it back to them.
If you do take the pads out for inspection the calipers are not like the old ones where you can just squeeze the pistons back into their bore....you need to twist them as they are compressing....i think you could go on youtube and see it done. The special tool you need is like $11 at napa or other auto parts stores.
ft calipers have screw in pistons? I thought that was just on emergency brake (rear) calipers?
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Old 10-20-2015, 09:56 PM   #22
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ft calipers have screw in pistons? I thought that was just on emergency brake (rear) calipers?
You are right...guess I was thinking about the rear disc's. Just make sure the crack the cap on the master cylinder to relieve pressure when you squeeze the pistons back.
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Old 10-21-2015, 10:33 PM   #23
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You are right...guess I was thinking about the rear disc's. Just make sure the crack the cap on the master cylinder to relieve pressure when you squeeze the pistons back.
and open the bleeder to keep from frugging up the abs or master cylinder by pushing crud back into them !
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Old 10-22-2015, 08:35 AM   #24
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and open the bleeder to keep from frugging up the abs or master cylinder by pushing crud back into them !
If you have crud in the lines you need to flush the system...which you should do every 30k miles anyway...you need to maintain your brake fluid like you do your engine oil...IMHO
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