Does a stroker kit effect compression ratios - Mustang Evolution

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Old 07-19-2016, 07:58 PM   #1
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Does a stroker kit effect compression ratios

I have a blown 3v 4.6 and thinking about a 5.0 stroker. How much, if any, compression change will occur?,understanding a blown motor likes a low compression stroke
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:04 PM   #2
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Stroke has zero to do with compression.
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Old 07-19-2016, 09:54 PM   #3
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You will be changing cams and timing.

Also keep in mind that a longer stroke piston prefers lower RPMs. You will make more torque and power, but you're useable power curve will be lower than on a 4.6 engine.

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Old 07-20-2016, 02:41 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scottydsntknow View Post
Stroke has zero to do with compression.
Stroke has everything to do with compression.

Compression is the volume above the piston at BDC divided by the volume above the piston at TDC.

All other things being equal stroking the engine dramatically increases compression. However, you can use pistons with a dish or a short compression height so they sit down in the cylinder to increase the cylinder volume above the piston at TDC to lower the compression ratio.

You have to pay attention to what you are buying or you could wind up with so much compression that the engine won't run on pump gas.

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Old 07-20-2016, 10:26 PM   #5
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Thanks for the info. Any links on options for kits that keep the 1.67:1 ratio


You can be 2nd or 3rd... heck even 4th or 5th
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Old 07-21-2016, 07:52 AM   #6
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I am more of a Mopar guy so I have no suggestions for where to buy a kit. I am assuming when you say 1.67:1 you are referring to rod ratio (connecting rod lenght / stroke). When you stroke an engine the rod ratio changes, to maintain the same ratio as you had with the stock stroke you will need a longer connecting rod. If you are trying to keep the compression down with a longer rod you could wind up having to have custom pistons if you can even get there.

I would go and look for a book that deals with building your engine. They will have a wealth of knowledge and have suggestions on what works and what doesn't.

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Old 07-21-2016, 11:15 AM   #7
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The easy answer is, buy a stroker kit with the compression you want.
The pin height is specific to the stroke/rod length you are getting so the pistons don't come out the top of the block. All this is figured by the maker of the kit. Eagle is a popular stroker kit. There are some reputable short block builders out there, why not just get a stroker short block that's already done right and not worry about building your own, finding a good machinist, dealing with the mess etc.?
You can get a FRPP stroker short block, Livernois or my favorite; JDM Engineering short block for about what you'd pay in parts and machine work if you did your own.
Plus, there is a warranty. Yup, JDM guaranties race motors...check them out.
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Old 07-21-2016, 11:26 AM   #8
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I'd go along with FabMan...When you are building a stroker motor from pieces and parts and not as a kit you need to know exactly what the block height is so you can get the correctly sized rods and pin height in the pistons not to mention figuring out what the CR should be depending on the chamber volume of the heads you are going to use....hopefully you have a good machine shop in mind that has done stroker motors before...if not I'd pass and just buy a short block.
I'm not a huge fan of the newer Eagle stuff as most of it is made in China...like the MT82 6spd in the Mustang. The others mentioned would be my best recommendation. You will be money ahead if you buy a complete stroker short block or long block than piece meal it together....IMHO
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:56 AM   #9
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Good stuff. Thanks guys. Originally I heard about the weak rods but if I'm going to up the strength there I thought I would go with the whole rotating assembly. While shopping around I saw stroker cranks and was intrigued. My motor is still in great shape so I guess I'll start basic with a forged assembly and when I want more (and who doesn't) I'll go short block. I appreciate everyone's input. As I get closer I plan on a w/m injection and a pulley to warrant said upgrade. Hopefully close to the 15 psi range. Still running catted and stock manifold so flow should allow for such resistance. If I open the exhaust any more I may have to upgrade the whipple so as not to overspin the 2.3. Maybe a 100 shot Zex would help out. Whom I kidding of course it would. Lol


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