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Old 09-28-2016, 07:58 PM   #1
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Best Cams and other related components

I didn't see any discussions about whether there is a consensus on which cams are best for a GT. I'm just starting to do some recon to decide exactly what I want to do to my 2007 GT once I have the valve covers off, but I am definitely installing the following:

1. Performance Cams (brand?)
2. Ford Racing Intake Manifold
3. Rocker Arms and Lash Adjusters
4. Cam Phaser bolts, of course
5. Ford Racing Valve Covers

I am strongly considering the FRPP Hot Rod Cams but I also understand that the Brenspeed Detroit rockers are awesome as well.

Applicable pre-existing mods to the car include Kooks headers, off-road H-pipe, Borla Stinger cat-back, C&L Racer intake, Ford Racing 47lb. fuel injectors, SR Perf. throttle body, SCT Tuner with Bama...I think that's all of the ones that matter...

I'm looking for any opinions as to cams and whether anything else should be upgraded while I'm in there anyway?
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #2
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Best Cams and other related components

I'll be getting the hot rods for my GT. Should be enough cam for an NA 3V. But your list is a good start.
You should start looking into some suspension mods after this.

Pick your poison.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:30 PM   #3
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Thanks. The list I provided was just the stuff that would effect the cam install.

Suspension mods were the second thing I did (after upgrading the brakes). I think I have just about every reasonable suspension mod that I can have at this point. The car really does handle great after investing a lot of time and money, especially for having a solid rear axle.
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Old 09-28-2016, 08:40 PM   #4
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Why did you decide on Hot Rod cams over the other choices?
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Old 09-28-2016, 09:06 PM   #5
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Most of the people that I talked to, with upgraded cams, had them. So more feedback I suppose.


Pick your poison.
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Old 09-29-2016, 12:52 PM   #6
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Comp cams 127300 are great cams for a daily driver, they don't have all that extra lumpy idle sound artificially added to them like some others do (at the expense of some power and drivability) so if you are looking for "That sound" these might not be what you want, BUT if you are looking for a great set of cams that produce good power and excellent drivability, won't foul plugs, murder mileage and buck at part throttle I would definitely look at them. Same cams were used in the Saleen Extreme Motors back when 3V motors were all the rage. I personally ran these for years and loved them. But hey, what do I know?
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:17 PM   #7
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Are you saying that the Hot Rod cams can "foul plugs, murder mileage and buck at part throttle"? The ones that you recommend are "Comp Cams Stage IIXFI VSR" which means that I will also need to do valve springs and retainers and phase limiter, but that's not a problem if these are overall the better camshafts. The lopey sound is nice but not the end-all.

I always assumed that since the SR throttle body and the FRPP were the same size, they are comparable in performance. Great information, thank you very much.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:37 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Are you saying that the Hot Rod cams can "foul plugs, murder mileage and buck at part throttle"? The ones that you recommend are "Comp Cams Stage IIXFI VSR" which means that I will also need to do valve springs and retainers and phase limiter, but that's not a problem if these are overall the better camshafts. The lopey sound is nice but not the end-all.

I always assumed that since the SR throttle body and the FRPP were the same size, they are comparable in performance. Great information, thank you very much.
I ran 127300's with stock springs and no phase limiters deep into the 10's in a 4000 pound daily driver.
I gave you sound advice based on real experience. take it or leave it. Matters not to me.
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Old 09-29-2016, 01:40 PM   #9
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I'm not questioning your advice, just sharing my thoughts...
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Old 09-29-2016, 02:53 PM   #10
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Go for the mutha thumpr cams if you want that old school hot rod idle. It also works great with Ford racing intake

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Old 09-29-2016, 02:54 PM   #11
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I'm not questioning your advice, just sharing my thoughts...
I learned a long long time ago most lumpy cams are designed to make noise first, and power second. In the 40+ years of building hot rods and race cars and motorcycles (many years professionally) I have learned the hard way.
Lumpy cams sound awesome and make customers smile....initially, but in the long run are more trouble (and often less power) than they are worth.
I can't tell you how many times I took wild sounding cams out of motors and made more power and better drivability with smaller ones.
Don't get me wrong, I love the rump rump sound, but I don't let that drive my cam selection.
I can have any cam I want and my personal 3V race car has a very mild cam that makes great power. There's no big torque peaks around largely useless rpm bands, soggy bottom or tuning/drivability headaches. Just a nice long flat torque curve and a motor that's always "ON".
It's just very easy to over cam motors looking for that lumpy sound at the expense of other more important factors. Unless, thats your goal.

Good performance doesn't have to come at such a cost when things are well matched to each other and to the intended purpose-much more that throwing big parts at it.
All I am saying is don't get too caught up in the lift/duration numbers or sound of a cam unless that's all you want it for.
If you are looking for a really good performance cam that has good street manners, it's probably not going to be as wild as you think.

It's less how big of a cam you get and more how good of a grind it is.

And that's my 2 cents.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:09 PM   #12
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I learned a long long time ago most lumpy cams are designed to make noise first, and power second. In the 40+ years of building hot rods and race cars and motorcycles (many years professionally) I have learned the hard way.
Lumpy cams sound awesome and make customers smile....initially, but in the long run are more trouble (and often less power) than they are worth.
I can't tell you how many times I took wild sounding cams out of motors and made more power and better drivability with smaller ones.
Don't get me wrong, I love the rump rump sound, but I don't let that drive my cam selection.
I can have any cam I want and my personal 3V race car has a very mild cam that makes great power. There's no big torque peaks around largely useless rpm bands, soggy bottom or tuning/drivability headaches. Just a nice long flat torque curve and a motor that's always "ON".
It's just very easy to over cam motors looking for that lumpy sound at the expense of other more important factors. Unless, thats your goal.

Good performance doesn't have to come at such a cost when things are well matched to each other and to the intended purpose-much more that throwing big parts at it.
All I am saying is don't get too caught up in the lift/duration numbers or sound of a cam unless that's all you want it for.
If you are looking for a really good performance cam that has good street manners, it's probably not going to be as wild as you think.

It's less how big of a cam you get and more how good of a grind it is.

And that's my 2 cents.
My car with the Ford racing intake is still building hp up to 7000rpm with those cams and intake and other mods as well.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:10 PM   #13
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My car with the Ford racing intake is still building hp up to 7000rpm with those cams and intake and other mods as well.
Congratulations.
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Old 09-29-2016, 03:43 PM   #14
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Smart azz
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Old 09-29-2016, 04:49 PM   #15
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Smart azz
I don't want a motor that builds, I want one that's always on.
Everything that's below peak power is just that. Less.

It's like those cheap stereos that make a billion peak watts, but everything less than wide open sounds like crap.....but it's got a zillion watts. What it's really about actual usable power.

The flatter the powerband the faster and more fun it's going to be to drive.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:04 PM   #16
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Here you go... "Brenspeeds favorite cams":

127300 XFI VSR COMP CAMS STAGE 2 CAM SET MUSTANG GT (05-10) *Brenspeed Favorite*

Looking for the ultimate camshaft for a highly modified engine? The Comp Stage 2 (formerly called stage 3) camshaft is used exclusively by Brenspeed when a high lift camshaft is needed for a street driven Mustang. The Comp Stage 2 cam sets have shown as much as a 35 to 40 HP gain on modified vehicles. Because of the cam specifications valve springs and retainers are also required which you will find in this cam section as well. Use the drop down box above to add the springs and retainers at a discounted price. We also suggest one of the larger aftermarket air intakes with this cam set like the C&L Racer intake system. Check our technical section for a write up on this cam test.

Our 2005 Mustang GT test car cranked out 347 rwhp all motor using this cam set and the factory un-ported cylinder heads!
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:08 PM   #17
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FRPP Hot Rod Camshaft Set
Designed for rough idle using the factory valve springs. These cams by FRPP will give you a rough idle with gains in HP and Torque at high RPM. Expect small loss of torque at lower RPM's. These cams are tune required.

Ford Racing Hot Rod Camshaft M-6550-3V 05-10 Mustang 3V
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:23 PM   #18
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Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Naturally Aspirated Mustang GT 2005-2010 *Brenspeed Favorite*

Brenspeed Detroit Rocker Camshafts

The Detroit Rocker camshafts by Brenspeed were designed to meet 3 specific needs.
1. Rough Idle
2. Great drivability
3. Minimal Torque loss with a great power gain

Our test car picked up 26 rwhp peak vs. peak and 34 rwhp when comparing stock vs. Detroit Rocker at 6,500 RPMs running the stock air box. We then added a JLT 110 mm intake the gains sky rocketed to 40 rwhp gain peak vs. peak when comparing the JLT 110 mm intake & Detroit Rocker combo vs. Stock air box & Stock cam combo. The test car for this graph was a 2006 Mustang GT manual running 4.10 gears, Pypes long tube headers, and a Brenspeed tune.

Here is a quote from Chandler at Brenspeed :
I ran Comp Mother Thumpas and phaser limiters for a year and half. I loved the rough idle but I didn't like low rpm roughness when driving through the city. I also had to constantly slip my clutch to compensate for the roughness when accelerating because of the controlled mis-fire and the cams grind. I ran a 4.30 gear to help make up for the loss of torque as well with the 127020 cams. I removed those cams and went back to stock 8 months ago. I now run a 4.10 gear and the new Detroit Rocker cams and I have never been so happy. They lope like the classic muscle car sound I love and had with the thumpr cams, yet drive like stock. I can now drive in a low gear and no longer get the lopey cam bucking I had before and also take full advantage of variable cam timing because the phaser limiters are not required with the Detroit Rocker grind.

As with all cams a lower rear gear is suggested.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:26 PM   #19
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THEY ALL LOOSE TORQUE, ESPECIALLY AT lOW RPM EXCEPT THE 127300'S.

BOOM.....done.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:52 PM   #20
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Thank you very much for pointing all of this out. You've convinced me to consider Detroit Rocker and Comp Cams and to not go with the FRPP Hot Rod ones.
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Old 09-29-2016, 06:59 PM   #21
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Thank you very much for pointing all of this out. You've convinced me to consider Detroit Rocker and Comp Cams and to not go with the FRPP Hot Rod ones.
Just wanted you to be able to make an informed decision.
Its a lot of work and money spent to just choose a cam willy nilly that you might not be happy with.

My job is done here.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:12 PM   #22
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One last thing....unless you have a forged motor you shouldn't be turning it over 6250, so a cam that makes peak power at 7000 rpm isn't going to do you much good.
Its going to be all downside and no upside. Always look for the cam that gives you the most torque, especially down low. Ultimately you will go faster and be happier.
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Old 09-29-2016, 07:17 PM   #23
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Yeah, that makes sense. I have always felt like the thing that my GT is lacking the most is torque so anything that makes that worse is no good since it's my daily driver. I was just looking at the torque charts for the cams you suggested as you wrote this.
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:16 PM   #24
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I've run the stage 3 (now called 2) Comp Cams 127300 for about the past four years in my 06 GT. I did the springs also but no phaser or any other. While running NA they worked great and added a ton of power. I have since added a Saleen VI supercharger with the Brenspeed 530 HP "Corvette Killer". At first I thought I would have to go to the 127350, but Brenspeed assured me that the 127300s were used in some Saleen Extremes and worked great with blowers.
My research also found another opinion which I documented but can't recall where I got it: Quote" Nah, 127300s, same cam saleen used in the s302/pj. They work awesome with the saleen blowers. Imho blower grinds are best suited for centri blowers. With the saleen blower and full boost down low the 127300 na cam is more suited to the power band."
This boosted my confidence for the 127300s with a Saleen VI supercharger. It's run great in this setup and I'm extremely happy with the performance. Just my two cents.
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:28 PM   #25
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I've run the stage 3 (now called 2) Comp Cams 127300 for about the past four years in my 06 GT. I did the springs also but no phaser or any other. While running NA they worked great and added a ton of power. I have since added a Saleen VI supercharger with the Brenspeed 530 HP "Corvette Killer". At first I thought I would have to go to the 127350, but Brenspeed assured me that the 127300s were used in some Saleen Extremes and worked great with blowers.
My research also found another opinion which I documented but can't recall where I got it: Quote" Nah, 127300s, same cam saleen used in the s302/pj. They work awesome with the saleen blowers. Imho blower grinds are best suited for centri blowers. With the saleen blower and full boost down low the 127300 na cam is more suited to the power band."
This boosted my confidence for the 127300s with a Saleen VI supercharger. It's run great in this setup and I'm extremely happy with the performance. Just my two cents.
I concur.

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Old 10-05-2016, 07:28 PM   #26
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Awesome, thanks for the info. Mine's a DD that I often have in the DC area (horrible stop-and-go traffic) so I am really leaning toward the Detroit Rockers because of the power band.

Do you know what type of gas milage you are getting with your current setup?
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Old 10-05-2016, 07:34 PM   #27
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Awesome, thanks for the info. Mine's a DD that I often have in the DC area (horrible stop-and-go traffic) so I am really leaning toward the Detroit Rockers because of the power band.

Do you know what type of gas milage you are getting with your current setup?
I no longer have that setup as my car is track only now and runs on e85.
Back when I had the stock headed motor with the 127300's I noticed very little difference in mileage, but it pulled like a banshee right off the bottom and never ran out of air. This is where the smart money is my friend.
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Old 10-06-2016, 07:32 AM   #28
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Awesome, thanks for the info. Mine's a DD that I often have in the DC area (horrible stop-and-go traffic) so I am really leaning toward the Detroit Rockers because of the power band.

Do you know what type of gas milage you are getting with your current setup?
I have squeezed out 25 mpg (best) on the highway one time with this set up. Usually its about 23 TO 24. In the City not as good averaging somewhere in the mid 13s. The setup and the sound makes you get into it once in a while. I usually drive it once a day as long it's not raining. In the winter I don't drive it unless there's no snow. Basically I drive it for fun as I am retired.
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