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Time for New Motor?

4K views 52 replies 9 participants last post by  scottydsntknow 
#1 ·
I know there are several older threads out there about this but looking for more recent info since lots of new Ford Racing Products. 09 GT has developed a rasping/rattling noise during acceleration and deceleration. My mech thinks it is in the phasers, timing and tensioner. Thoughts? if i need a new motor i am considering the 5.3L modular short block M-6009-B53. What are your thoughts on this? the car only has 37000 miles, has the glass roof and is very clean. JBA headers and H pipe JLT CAI etc.
 
#2 ·
Depends what your budget is. For the price of a 5.3 stroker and then the power adder to kick it up to Coyote power you could do a stock replacement engine and then sell it and pick up a clean 11+ for similar pricing honestly.

Just don't get a Jasper engine.
 
#3 ·
Really like what I have done with the car so far. Grabber Orange and Glass roof as well. Cant get those on newer cars. And I realize if I put $10K - $15k I will never get my money back. Just realized the 5.3L Stroker is an iron block. What will that do to handling if I put it in? Thanks for the advice.
 
#4 ·
Will add 75lbs to the nose. Coyote swap it if you are going to do an engine.
 
#15 ·
Any dealer can tell if the ECU has been tuned man... depends on the dealer if they'll warranty it. For basic warranty work where the tune probably didn't matter a cool tech will probably just do it. But for an engine replacement... lol.
 
#18 ·
Stock pullout 3V. Or if you are going to go for broke Coyote swap it.

My recommendation? Stock pullout and then sell it and buy what you want.
 
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#17 ·
My mech thinks it is in the phasers, timing and tensioner.
Who is diagnosing the problem?
oh I see, I have a full warranty until 131K, I'll take tune off before bringing in
:whistling::D
Yea no you have no warranty.

---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:54 PM ----------

what I heard was return to stock, drive 100 miles, tell them you replaced battery - it worked for me in CA w/ smog check
Nope, that's not going to work.
 
#22 ·
#48 ·
Also 06-10 Explorers and Mountaineers had the same 4.6l 3V as the Mustang GT but cheaper at many yards.

Or if you want a cheaper 4.6l 4v get a Lincoln Aviator cheaper than the Marauder and Mach 1 engines I have been told they are the same (autos).

Or I was also wondering why not just replace the timing components unless you just want to upgrade. I bought all the timing components for my 5.4l 3v OEM except upgraded to Mellings oil pump. I saved over 50% retail by getting my timing components here:

2006 - Ford Parts

and the rest (VCT solenoids, coils, plugs, etc) from Amazon or Ebay.

FYI This was one of the most entertaining threads I have read in awhile. The bullying brought me back to high school memories lol
 
#23 ·
You can go a few differant ways , all depends on what kind of performance you are looking for . Do you want the same power you had before or are you looking for a little more or alot more . If you were happy with what you had then get what you had , its the cheapest way to go . I myself . dont go the cheapest way,I would look at this as a chance to upgrade. Unless you get a motor that came super charged from the factory they all have a weakness , 3 valves dont have the best connecting rods , some other4.6 blocks cant take much more than 600HP, you should get a steel crankshaft also. All depends on how much HP you plan on making. You cant get a 5.4 SC swap kit out of a GT350 for $10,000 from the Parts Farm in Georgia,.,. you get every nut & bolt W/ Trans & wiring
 
#24 ·
You can go a few differant ways , all depends on what kind of performance you are looking for . Do you want the same power you had before or are you looking for a little more or alot more . If you were happy with what you had then get what you had , its the cheapest way to go . I myself . dont go the cheapest way,I would look at this as a chance to upgrade. Unless you get a motor that came super charged from the factory they all have a weakness , 3 valves dont have the best connecting rods , some other4.6 blocks cant take much more than 600HP, you should get a steel crankshaft also. All depends on how much HP you plan on making. You cant get a 5.4 SC swap kit out of a GT350 for $10,000 from the Parts Farm in Georgia,.,. you get every nut & bolt W/ Trans & wiring
Correct on the rods. Wrong on the block. Crank is subjective. Rods are the same powdered rods that all the GTs and 4V Cobras (minus the Termi) got. They will let go in the 450-500 range as a general rule. The blocks? ANY 4.6L block is good for 4 figures, even the WAP which has a bad reputation for literally 0 reason. The good news? WAPs are stupid cheap to get and the lightest of all the blocks at 75lbs. Crankshaft? Really depends. If you are going to be keeping the RPM around 7k with boost then 0 need to upgrade. The cast crank is actually substantially lighter than the forged ones and its very strong. Lots and lots of ppl use stock cast cranks in bigger power builds and ALL the NA guys who spin real high RPM use cast cranks. For a street car that is going to be 600-700hp and shift at 7200 the cast crank is not a weak point.

Regardless, if he is going to be "upgrading" the engine at all, Coyote swap. 37k mile car is a great candidate for this, throw a GT500 front end on it and you have what might be the best looking of all the S197s with a far superior engine to the 3V.

Or... what I would probably do. Stock replacement engine and just drive it or sell it right after and get a car with the driveline you already want. There is no shortage of cheap garage queen 11-14 GTs right now and even a 07-09 GT500 with low miles will be in the $26-$30k range.
 
#25 ·
All the stock Rods suck , The best Blocks are the Teksid Aluminum Block, stock 4.6 blocks will fail if you put more than 600 HP to them . I dont read a bunch of articles in magazines , get my info by doin so what I have seen with the MOD motors & what you are saying , gotta question if you know what your talking about
 
#26 ·
If your 4.6L block fails at 600hp its a manufacturing defect or you built it wrong. Sorry.

And the 05+ Aluminator blocks are stronger than the Teksids although the Teksids will take more power than 99% of ppl will ever make so its kinda moot.
 
#29 ·
:nonono::nonono::nonono::nonono:

Also good luck since I'm moving to Spain in January as active USAF.

And I'll still maintain that if you think a 4.6L block is weak enough to fail at 600hp then you might want to stay on the FB groups. Only way a 4.6L block is failing at 600hp is it was badly built or badly tuned. No idea who you are talking to to get your info but you might want to stop.
 
#30 ·
They are good to 800 , I just wanted to disagree with a know it all , I wasnt telling any body what to do , I was just pointing out some options , what might be good for you aint always good for some one else so telling some one to do what you would do is kind of stupid , to each his own but if you are having trouble with a certain type motor why replace it with the same thing
 
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