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Old 12-04-2017, 11:39 AM   #1
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Time for New Motor?

I know there are several older threads out there about this but looking for more recent info since lots of new Ford Racing Products. 09 GT has developed a rasping/rattling noise during acceleration and deceleration. My mech thinks it is in the phasers, timing and tensioner. Thoughts? if i need a new motor i am considering the 5.3L modular short block M-6009-B53. What are your thoughts on this? the car only has 37000 miles, has the glass roof and is very clean. JBA headers and H pipe JLT CAI etc.
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Old 12-04-2017, 09:31 PM   #2
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Depends what your budget is. For the price of a 5.3 stroker and then the power adder to kick it up to Coyote power you could do a stock replacement engine and then sell it and pick up a clean 11+ for similar pricing honestly.

Just don't get a Jasper engine.
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Old 12-05-2017, 01:30 PM   #3
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Really like what I have done with the car so far. Grabber Orange and Glass roof as well. Cant get those on newer cars. And I realize if I put $10K - $15k I will never get my money back. Just realized the 5.3L Stroker is an iron block. What will that do to handling if I put it in? Thanks for the advice.
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Old 12-05-2017, 01:51 PM   #4
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Will add 75lbs to the nose. Coyote swap it if you are going to do an engine.
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Old 12-05-2017, 01:52 PM   #5
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Do you have a part number for the short block? Thanks again.
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Old 12-05-2017, 02:45 PM   #6
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at only 37K??????
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:11 AM   #7
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yup sucks don't it! Not 100% sure what happened yet, but it sounds as though the timing chain tensioner may have broken. Wont know for sure until we tear it down. Sounds like a good excuse for an upgrade though.
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Old 12-06-2017, 10:45 AM   #8
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Anyone have experience with Blow By Blow Racing and their short blocks?
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:00 PM   #9
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no warranty??
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Old 12-06-2017, 12:33 PM   #10
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Figured with tune all the aftermarket upgrades they would not approve a warranty claim. And it is 8 years old.
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Old 12-06-2017, 05:34 PM   #11
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oh I see, I have a full warranty until 131K, I'll take tune off before bringing in
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Old 12-06-2017, 07:59 PM   #12
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oh I see, I have a full warranty until 131K, I'll take tune off before bringing in
They will know

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Old 12-06-2017, 08:33 PM   #13
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what I heard was return to stock, drive 100 miles, tell them you replaced battery - it worked for me in CA w/ smog check
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Old 12-07-2017, 07:13 AM   #14
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smog check is not ford counting how many times the computer has been reflashed.....you don't have to believe us but Ford does not have to honor an engine that has been tuned.
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Old 12-07-2017, 01:03 PM   #15
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Any dealer can tell if the ECU has been tuned man... depends on the dealer if they'll warranty it. For basic warranty work where the tune probably didn't matter a cool tech will probably just do it. But for an engine replacement... lol.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:09 PM   #16
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Thank you everyone I understand that. Now back to the original questions; recommendation for replacement motor.
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Old 12-07-2017, 03:55 PM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swharvey62 View Post
My mech thinks it is in the phasers, timing and tensioner.
Who is diagnosing the problem?
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Originally Posted by hfca View Post
oh I see, I have a full warranty until 131K, I'll take tune off before bringing in
Yea no you have no warranty.

---------- Post added at 05:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:54 PM ----------

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what I heard was return to stock, drive 100 miles, tell them you replaced battery - it worked for me in CA w/ smog check
Nope, that's not going to work.
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Old 12-07-2017, 04:31 PM   #18
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Thank you everyone I understand that. Now back to the original questions; recommendation for replacement motor.
Stock pullout 3V. Or if you are going to go for broke Coyote swap it.

My recommendation? Stock pullout and then sell it and buy what you want.
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Old 12-08-2017, 02:21 AM   #19
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Check out SHM ,Sean Hyland Motorsports, they specialize in Mod Motors
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Old 12-09-2017, 01:39 PM   #20
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What about M-6009-427A?
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Old 12-09-2017, 02:08 PM   #21
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What about M-6009-427A?
Thats a push rod engine . 351w Stroked to 427 ci , it is aluminum but the short block is almost $8000, Do a Coyote swap , you can find a low milage motor & trans ,ECU , Wire harness , fuel tank pkg deal for $7000 or less
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:21 PM   #22
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Car-Part.com--Used Auto Parts Market

Find a low mileage replacement engine. Either out of another 3V Mustang or you might be able to use a 4.6L 3V out of a F150. Not sure.
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Old 12-09-2017, 04:49 PM   #23
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You can go a few differant ways , all depends on what kind of performance you are looking for . Do you want the same power you had before or are you looking for a little more or alot more . If you were happy with what you had then get what you had , its the cheapest way to go . I myself . dont go the cheapest way,I would look at this as a chance to upgrade. Unless you get a motor that came super charged from the factory they all have a weakness , 3 valves dont have the best connecting rods , some other4.6 blocks cant take much more than 600HP, you should get a steel crankshaft also. All depends on how much HP you plan on making. You cant get a 5.4 SC swap kit out of a GT350 for $10,000 from the Parts Farm in Georgia,.,. you get every nut & bolt W/ Trans & wiring
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Old 12-10-2017, 10:23 AM   #24
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You can go a few differant ways , all depends on what kind of performance you are looking for . Do you want the same power you had before or are you looking for a little more or alot more . If you were happy with what you had then get what you had , its the cheapest way to go . I myself . dont go the cheapest way,I would look at this as a chance to upgrade. Unless you get a motor that came super charged from the factory they all have a weakness , 3 valves dont have the best connecting rods , some other4.6 blocks cant take much more than 600HP, you should get a steel crankshaft also. All depends on how much HP you plan on making. You cant get a 5.4 SC swap kit out of a GT350 for $10,000 from the Parts Farm in Georgia,.,. you get every nut & bolt W/ Trans & wiring
Correct on the rods. Wrong on the block. Crank is subjective. Rods are the same powdered rods that all the GTs and 4V Cobras (minus the Termi) got. They will let go in the 450-500 range as a general rule. The blocks? ANY 4.6L block is good for 4 figures, even the WAP which has a bad reputation for literally 0 reason. The good news? WAPs are stupid cheap to get and the lightest of all the blocks at 75lbs. Crankshaft? Really depends. If you are going to be keeping the RPM around 7k with boost then 0 need to upgrade. The cast crank is actually substantially lighter than the forged ones and its very strong. Lots and lots of ppl use stock cast cranks in bigger power builds and ALL the NA guys who spin real high RPM use cast cranks. For a street car that is going to be 600-700hp and shift at 7200 the cast crank is not a weak point.

Regardless, if he is going to be "upgrading" the engine at all, Coyote swap. 37k mile car is a great candidate for this, throw a GT500 front end on it and you have what might be the best looking of all the S197s with a far superior engine to the 3V.

Or... what I would probably do. Stock replacement engine and just drive it or sell it right after and get a car with the driveline you already want. There is no shortage of cheap garage queen 11-14 GTs right now and even a 07-09 GT500 with low miles will be in the $26-$30k range.
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Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 12-10-2017, 03:09 PM   #25
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All the stock Rods suck , The best Blocks are the Teksid Aluminum Block, stock 4.6 blocks will fail if you put more than 600 HP to them . I dont read a bunch of articles in magazines , get my info by doin so what I have seen with the MOD motors & what you are saying , gotta question if you know what your talking about
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Old 12-10-2017, 05:29 PM   #26
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If your 4.6L block fails at 600hp its a manufacturing defect or you built it wrong. Sorry.

And the 05+ Aluminator blocks are stronger than the Teksids although the Teksids will take more power than 99% of ppl will ever make so its kinda moot.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:04 PM   #27
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Lets Race! Love to shut your big mouth up . Do it at a track in the spring in what we are driving now . I got a 2003 Cobra , Should be no match for what some body with all knowlage & expertise you must have What do you say ? Up for it ? I sure am !
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:05 PM   #28
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I haven't had one built 4.6 fail at 600 on the stock block.(not internals ) Will have another one up and going by April. Stock 98 block .30 over with about 16-18 pounds.

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Old 12-10-2017, 06:13 PM   #29
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Lets Race! Love to shut your big mouth up . Do it at a track in the spring in what we are driving now . I got a 2003 Cobra , Should be no match for what some body with all knowlage & expertise you must have What do you say ? Up for it ? I sure am !


Also good luck since I'm moving to Spain in January as active USAF.

And I'll still maintain that if you think a 4.6L block is weak enough to fail at 600hp then you might want to stay on the FB groups. Only way a 4.6L block is failing at 600hp is it was badly built or badly tuned. No idea who you are talking to to get your info but you might want to stop.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:15 PM   #30
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They are good to 800 , I just wanted to disagree with a know it all , I wasnt telling any body what to do , I was just pointing out some options , what might be good for you aint always good for some one else so telling some one to do what you would do is kind of stupid , to each his own but if you are having trouble with a certain type motor why replace it with the same thing
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:17 PM   #31
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What about the race ? Dont care about being right , Care about being fast , Lets Go , I will drive to NJ
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:18 PM   #32
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Bye ,Bye
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:21 PM   #33
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WAP blocks are rumored to let go at 800, never heard of one actually doing it tho. If you want to disagree with a "know it all" (im not even close to that I admit) then at least get your info right. Iron blocks, Teskids and Aluminators are good for 1500 at least. And WAPS probably too. Again, never heard of one failing.

As for you driving to NJ, if you want to waste your time go ahead. I'm not wasting mine, I'm moving out of my house in 12 days and then getting ready for a full blown international move.

Again, not sure why the hostility, I was just correcting bad info as I see it. You went from saying the blocks fail at 600 to now 800 and both numbers are incorrect.
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Just because I give you advice, doesn't mean I know more than you. Its just means I've done more stupid ****.
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:36 PM   #34
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See Ya Fool. Some Talk , Some Do . You are obviously a Talker , why dont you have a real job , no skills I bet
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Old 12-10-2017, 06:53 PM   #35
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Active Military isn't a real job? Lmao. We have an internet tough guy.
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