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Old 09-28-2012, 08:02 PM   #1
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Racing setup...

Hey guys! I brought my car to the race track and all I have to say is....I LOVE IT !! Now here's the question and I need all the input, I'm going to start looking into setting up my 67 fb for the track, whats the best suspension setup and braking setup that I can get for my car??
I know I got the power with the 390 but the original drum breaks and shocks did ok but I want more!! Budget is no issue for now.
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:48 PM   #2
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No idea... But beautiful stang...
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Old 09-28-2012, 08:56 PM   #3
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Thanks bud, I just wanna race now! I got the big with my car and it wasn't part of the plan. Now it is.
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Old 09-28-2012, 10:50 PM   #4
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...I got the bug....
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:15 PM   #5
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1/4 mile or road course?
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Old 09-30-2012, 06:57 PM   #6
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Road course, I've taken racing classes at that location before. But to drive my 67 down the track was so exhilarating. I might drop the car a little, sway bars, I already have coil over shocks in back but I need breaks and for sure some type of X frame connecter. I looked up some brands online and found some coil over and disc brake setups from anywhere of 1500$ to about 6000$. Just for the front, it's pricy but I'm gonna do it this winter. It's all I keep thinking about. Just trying to find the best setup for the pice and caliber of racing that I will be doing. It's just for fun, maybe once or twice a month I would think. But nevertheless, I want to upgrade the car and enjoy it.
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Old 10-04-2012, 12:24 AM   #7
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i have wilwood street/strip disks on the front. they sell a kit it works really good i havent taken my car to the track yet but i really want to
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Old 10-04-2012, 05:07 PM   #8
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That would be my choice too, what size rim and disc are you using? I would eventually want to put on some 17's on the car. How big of a disc can I get away with?
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Old 10-07-2012, 12:39 PM   #9
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I cant remember what size the rotors are but im running 17s
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Old 10-07-2012, 02:51 PM   #10
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The Shelby control arm drop helps a lot on my dads 69 mach1

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:49 PM ----------

Plus mustang Steve I think sells a kit to put disc brakes off a 2010 gt on the classic stangs

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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigpapaDean
That would be my choice too, what size rim and disc are you using? I would eventually want to put on some 17's on the car. How big of a disc can I get away with?
And 13in is the biggest with a 17 inch wheel
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Old 10-07-2012, 07:36 PM   #11
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I'm running 11.25" rotors on 15" rims on the rear of my 66 11" SSBC rotors up front. I'm looking into the coil over front end.
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Old 10-07-2012, 08:46 PM   #12
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Nice! That's what I'm talking about. I need people's opinions and actual examples of parts that you guys use. I think I'll go with the thrust rims 15" and if I go with 17's the vn500's. I really like those vn's. And are we talking about power disc breaks?? I've seen guys just change up the drums for just simple disc and no power. What do you guys think?

As for suspension I will drop the car about an inch to inch and a half and my buddy told me to install a panhard bar in the rear. Very good stabilizer. Any of you guys have some type of frame connectors on ? And if so what is the best? I've seen the "X" type and then the simpler designs.
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Old 10-07-2012, 10:45 PM   #13
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I have power on mine its just tricky to get the vacuum lines right i had to turn the idle up on my car
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:47 PM   #14
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....is that based on the fact that the booster isn't strong enough or the engine that can't supply enough pressure? Btw, it's not the first time I hear of this. Just curious to know why.
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Old 10-07-2012, 11:55 PM   #15
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Theres not enough pressure

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It would kill my engine
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:01 AM   #16
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And is dialing up the idle the only way to keep a constant pressure? What I'm asking myself is how do these aftermarket products compare to setups from a gt-gt350-gt500 ? How did those original configurations function properly?
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:28 AM   #17
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Im sure theres another way to hook up the vacuum line i just dont know it. Theres probably a hu

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A stock vacuum diagram or a way to route it where you can run it at normal idle im just not to sure how to run everything
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:32 AM   #18
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Ok cool. I'll ask around when I get to that project this winter. Thanks again for your help. How is the performance with your brake setup?
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Old 10-08-2012, 12:48 AM   #19
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Pretty good i havent really tested it that much i have an adjustable proportioning valve because i have drums on the back it stops good though
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Old 10-08-2012, 02:19 AM   #20
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travisb depending on what cam your running may be the issue with lack of vaccum, if this is the problem you can setup a vaccum canister and it stores vaccum for when needed as brakes are applied. and as for you papadean, are you wanting to go with a mustang 2 style design or do you want to retain factory towers. there are so many options, but truly you can get pretty damn near the performance with coilovers as you can with coils and struts, they do the same thing they are just more modern and compact. Coilovers obviously are the way to go though if money is no issue and you want maybe that slight edge they give you. i am looking at complete mustang 2 style assemblies hub to hub for my 65 fb build and there are some pretty reasonable setups. but once again it comes down to your necessities and wants and how they will be combined
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:54 AM   #21
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My dads 69 is running brakes of a 2010 gt in the front and a kit we bought at rod run in the back I think there 10.5 not for sure I think there disc brake select
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:59 AM   #22
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Dmay, I think I'll stick to with the original towers. Don't want to start chopping and changing things too much. Don't forget, it's still an S code and I don't want to go too crazy on upgrades that might take value away from the car. It's not all matching #'s but the engine is era correct (68 mustang 390) tranny and diff are original. I might one day even go back to the dark moss green.

Anyways, original towers stay but with bolt on updated components. Some tubular arms, the disks obviously, frame connectors, rims and good rubber, the panhard bar also and whatever you guys suggest to me. Question also is the brands.....in my ideal world I would love to find a one stop shop where I know the brand and the products are the same quality and give me the same performance. I'm asking for a lot, but I want to do something great with my car. Next time I go to the track....I want everyone out there to freak the F out. Lol.
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:07 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2300turboford
My dads 69 is running brakes of a 2010 gt in the front and a kit we bought at rod run in the back I think there 10.5 not for sure I think there disc brake select
I'm assuming to change into something so drastic you need to make changes inside the inner fenders and engine bay?
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Old 10-08-2012, 10:58 AM   #24
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I haven't tried these guys, but I read a lot of good things. http://totalcontrolproducts.com/front_systems.html
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Old 10-08-2012, 11:17 AM   #25
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Thanks mat, I just checked out some of the products! Very nice. I'll do more research but I like what I see and it's affordable.
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Old 10-08-2012, 05:46 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigpapaDean

I'm assuming to change into something so drastic you need to make changes inside the inner fenders and engine bay?
No. Look up mustang Steve and U can also buy a bracket that lowers ur lower control arm and it makes ur tires kick out when Corning its what all Shelby mustangs had
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Old 10-08-2012, 06:10 PM   #27
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Ron Morris at mustang plus makes a setup I believe, but I've heard some real good stuff about the rrs complete coilover disk strut kit and it retains towers I believe
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Old 10-08-2012, 07:44 PM   #28
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Hey did you watch the video on the RRS site? Unreal what the comparison is between a stock setup like mine to a setup from them! Amazing difference.
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:08 PM   #29
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Yes I have it's very nice, I just want the extra room so I'm doing m2 on mine, rrs is very reputable, I researched them for a long time
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Old 10-08-2012, 08:38 PM   #30
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I'm using Total Control frame connectors. They weld to the front and rear frame and the center section bolts on. The
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Old 10-08-2012, 09:09 PM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DaddyO
I'm using Total Control frame connectors. They weld to the front and rear frame and the center section bolts on. The
I love that system. How much was it if you don't mind me asking? That's exactly what I was looking for.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:39 AM   #32
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How important are sub frame connecters?

---------- Post added at 06:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:37 AM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by Dmay65
travisb depending on what cam your running may be the issue with lack of vaccum, if this is the problem you can setup a vaccum canister and it stores vaccum for when needed as brakes are applied. and as for you papadean, are you wanting to go with a mustang 2 style design or do you want to retain factory towers. there are so many options, but truly you can get pretty damn near the performance with coilovers as you can with coils and struts, they do the same thing they are just more modern and compact. Coilovers obviously are the way to go though if money is no issue and you want maybe that slight edge they give you. i am looking at complete mustang 2 style assemblies hub to hub for my 65 fb build and there are some pretty reasonable setups. but once again it comes down to your necessities and wants and how they will be combined
I have stock 200. But im going to drop a 351w in so i dont really want to do to much to my engine really just good enough for a ever day driver for now
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Old 10-09-2012, 07:38 AM   #33
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I think it's very important on the long run for our chassis. Most are affordable and they stabilize and stop most of the flex. Might not be an upgrade that's as obvious as new disc brakes but I think just as significant.
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:14 AM   #34
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Hmm yeah iv always thought about it but never hear anyone really talk about doing it
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:47 PM   #35
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I installed frame connectors and a 6 point roll cage. With 450hp I want to minimize any flex between motor and rear end. Probably nobody will see the frame connectors except the guy in the pit at the oil change shop. My 66 GT has been up on jack stands for 2 years and I hope to get it fired up in a couple more weeks. Waiting on a driveshaft from Dennys. Also need an oil dipstick. My 66 oil dipstick tube is too big for the hole in my 1993? Motor. I went with a Ford racing proportional valve for the rear brakes. I'll see how that works with stock master cylinder. Car has factory disc up front. If the pedal is sloppy I may need to upgrade the master cylinder
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