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Old 12-15-2012, 07:02 PM   #1
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First Day of learning mechanics

To start off learning, I decided I would go with the carburetor. After a few minutes I figured out how to remove it and I'm looking to rebuild it and get the kit but I can't seem to figure out what kind of carb it is. I know it's 4 barrel but I don't see any brands on it. Any advice?
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Old 12-15-2012, 08:21 PM   #2
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Your mustang is a 289?

That looks like a Autolite 4100. I rebuilt one in high school.
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Old 12-15-2012, 09:15 PM   #3
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I brought it to O'riellys so they could look up the prt number n they said its the manufactured one. I'm guessing the original one the engine came with. So next question is if I choose to go Holley demon or whichever, how do I know which model to choose?
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:23 PM   #4
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Your mustang is a 289?

That looks like a Autolite 4100. I rebuilt one in high school.
302
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Old 12-15-2012, 11:28 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by iStang65 View Post
I brought it to O'riellys so they could look up the prt number n they said its the manufactured one. I'm guessing the original one the engine came with. So next question is if I choose to go Holley demon or whichever, how do I know which model to choose?
Demon carberators are awesome
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Old 12-16-2012, 05:08 AM   #6
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I brought it to O'riellys so they could look up the prt number n they said its the manufactured one. I'm guessing the original one the engine came with. So next question is if I choose to go Holley demon or whichever, how do I know which model to choose?
Yeah, the 4100 was OEM for the '65 289, 302, 352 and a bunch of others. It's rated at 600 CFM's. I would just rebuild it and save some money towards the rest of the car. You can always swap it out later.
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:32 PM   #7
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Yeah, the 4100 was OEM for the '65 289, 302, 352 and a bunch of others. It's rated at 600 CFM's. I would just rebuild it and save some money towards the rest of the car. You can always swap it out later.
So with what I've gathered so far from the Internet and the guy that sold me the car is that according to the seller it's a 302 engine. But I just looked up the autolight with the part number on the base of the carb and it says its referencing a 65 with a 289. Is it possible that it is a 302 just with a carb that works on both engines or should I assume the engine is a 289 and not a 302? If it Is a 289 I'm not complaining since that is originally what's suppose to be in there according to VIN
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Old 12-16-2012, 12:43 PM   #8
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Also said the carb that I have has a 480 CFM
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Old 12-16-2012, 09:21 PM   #9
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So now I decided to drain the coolant and I don't think this is what it's suppose to look like. Any help?
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Old 12-17-2012, 11:48 AM   #10
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thats fine as long as there no milky looking fluid in there youll be fine just go get a coolant flush kit and run it through there.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:19 AM   #11
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Also said the carb that I have has a 480 CFM
Ford stopped putting the 289 in the Mustang April 21st 1968. In late 67 and most of 68 they used up the rest of the 289 parts so you can see a 302 with 289 heads on it etc. I would not worry about if it is a 289 or 302.

Now on to the Carb question. If it is rated at 480 I would leave it at that unless you know for sure the engine has been modded. I have seen way to many people over do it with a carburetor and then had to put smaller injectors in them to make the engine run correctly. If you must upgrade the Carb just because I would not go any higher then a 600 CFM anymore then that you will be wasting money.

So first thing I would do with that Carb is soak it and make sure it is clean. Next use compressed air to dry it all and clean all the ports. As you take it apart use a camera to take a lot of pictures so when you go to put it together again you will have pictures to refer to. Also if you have a good work bench as you take it apart lay all the parts in order as they come off and then reverse the order to put it together again.

Most of all have fun take your time and you will surprised how easy these cars are to work on.

---------- Post added at 07:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 AM ----------

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So now I decided to drain the coolant and I don't think this is what it's suppose to look like. Any help?

As someone else said this looks fine. The only suggestion I would also toss in would be check the hoses and belts. If this car has not been driven in awhile I would replace the hoses and belts just because I like the idea of knowing when the belts and hoses where replaced. The other reason I do this is because I hate to change all the fluids and then find a leak in a hose a month later and the car is down until I get it fixed.
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Old 12-19-2012, 01:14 PM   #12
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Thanks for all the advice and help. So far everything I've done has been pretty fun. I see why people can work on these classics all the time
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:02 PM   #13
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Thanks for all the advice and help. So far everything I've done has been pretty fun. I see why people can work on these classics all the time
Amen to that. I'm constantly going into my garage because I can't catch up with the parts I order! Too much fun.
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Old 12-19-2012, 10:26 PM   #14
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Thanks for all the advice and help. So far everything I've done has been pretty fun. I see why people can work on these classics all the time
Its a way for me to get away from everything. Just me a my girl
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:31 AM   #15
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So since I'm at the beginning stages of learning to work on the mustang but also have parts that need replacing on it, how do I know what parts to start with? Do more people start with body and frame or suspension?
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Old 12-20-2012, 02:41 AM   #16
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I would basically look at it as what needs to be done to get it in running order. Suspension, brakes. You should probably check your floor pans and trunk liner. These are things that are easier to tackle first in the beginning stages of a restoration. Don't freak out if you find any floor rot. It's most likely you will and the great thing is, new replacements are easy to obtain and relatively inexpensive.
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Old 12-22-2012, 03:13 AM   #17
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So I was looking at Hooker headers on CJ pony parts and was wondering if someone could tell me the difference between ceramic and the black headers. It's a 215$ price difference so was wondering if one is better then the other
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:14 AM   #18
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So I was looking at Hooker headers on CJ pony parts and was wondering if someone could tell me the difference between ceramic and the black headers. It's a 215$ price difference so was wondering if one is better then the other
Im pretty sure ceramic is just more durable and the other is just high temp paint
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Old 12-22-2012, 07:25 AM   #19
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It's not only more durable but helps keep the heat in the engine compartment down from the exhaust.
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Old 12-22-2012, 12:55 PM   #20
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It's not only more durable but helps keep the heat in the engine compartment down from the exhaust.
So the chrome is the better choice I'm guessing?
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Old 12-22-2012, 01:29 PM   #21
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If the ceramic is chromed then yes, that would look sweet and serve a purpose.
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:22 PM   #22
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If the ceramic is chromed then yes, that would look sweet and serve a purpose.
I like how your 66 came out
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Old 12-22-2012, 02:29 PM   #23
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I like how your 66 came out
Mine? Oh it's still a ways out there before I can drive it. Had to replace a lot of body panels, the Metalwork is 90% done and front suspension is fixing to be ordered. Sitting on dollies waiting to be body worked and painted. It is a bare shell right now. Hopefully next year it will be done.
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Old 12-22-2012, 04:46 PM   #24
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Mine? Oh it's still a ways out there before I can drive it. Had to replace a lot of body panels, the Metalwork is 90% done and front suspension is fixing to be ordered. Sitting on dollies waiting to be body worked and painted. It is a bare shell right now. Hopefully next year it will be done.
It's nice compared to what you started with
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Old 12-22-2012, 05:28 PM   #25
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I appreciate that. Ive been working hard on it.
In my pics the primer black was what I had when i got it. After stripping off 6 paint jobs I found a mess. Guy I got it from had a boner for Bondo. I want a straight clean mostly metal with a skim coat before it goes off for paint. I've replaced the passenger rear quarter, trunk floors, tail light panel and support, rear bumper mounts, both floors, roof skin, and driver side firewall. I added the rear seat to trunk divider and fixed the butchered rear dash. Also got new door shells and components, fenders, valances, trunk lid and hood. The only thing worth keeping original was the glass with exception of the windshield.
As soon as I get the front suspension welded in, it's getting lizard skinned everywhere I can get it to go. I have a 5.0 HO from a 91GT and AOD tranny I plan to use after rebuilds.
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