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Old 01-13-2013, 10:32 PM   #1
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Air compressor

So for people that have already been helping me on my way, I finally got my air compressor and so far it works great but is there suppose to be a little bit of air leaking where the air ratchet connects to the hose? And also after about 20 min of use I can feel a little bit of condensation also coming out of the hose. Are these normal?
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:40 PM   #2
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I see the problem... GMPP. Lol

A filter would help with the condensation issue. Make sure you oil the tools regularly , especially since there's condensation.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:42 PM   #3
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I see the problem... GMPP. Lol

A filter would help with the condensation issue. Make sure you oil the tools regularly , especially since there's condensation.
Your avatar is freakin cracking me up.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:44 PM   #4
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Your avatar is freakin cracking me up.
Thanks, I get a laugh out of it every time I long in.
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Old 01-13-2013, 10:58 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by iStang65 View Post
So for people that have already been helping me on my way, I finally got my air compressor and so far it works great but is there suppose to be a little bit of air leaking where the air ratchet connects to the hose? And also after about 20 min of use I can feel a little bit of condensation also coming out of the hose. Are these normal?
There should be a valve on the bottom of the tank that you should open periodically to blow out any moisture. Just open it until no water blows out.
Did you put Teflon tape around the threads of the quick connects?
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Old 01-13-2013, 11:21 PM   #6
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I see the problem... GMPP. Lol

A filter would help with the condensation issue. Make sure you oil the tools regularly , especially since there's condensation.
I know, GM tsk tsk haha. It was the best compressor I could get here in Alaska that had better HP then just 1.2 and had a good size tank. I also have a filter, ya just can't quite see it. It's all the way at the top but towards the back

---------- Post added at 08:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:20 PM ----------

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There should be a valve on the bottom of the tank that you should open periodically to blow out any moisture. Just open it until no water blows out.
Did you put Teflon tape around the threads of the quick connects?
Thanks. I finally figured that out after messing with it but no I didn't put any tape around the threads. I'm guessing that will help me with the air leak?

Thanks again everyone for the help. It's good to know people are willing to help other people out
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Old 01-14-2013, 05:15 AM   #7
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[QUOTE=iStang65;1480363]I know, GM tsk tsk haha. It was the best compressor I could get here in Alaska that had better HP then just 1.2 and had a good size tank. I also have a filter, ya just can't quite see it. It's all the way at the top but towards the back[COLOR="Silver"]

I am not sure I see a water filter in the picture we are talking about one of these.
Google Image Result for http://www.automation4less.com/amg_html.gif

It keeps the water from getting into the air line which will cause damage to your tools. Oil the tools before each use drain the tank at night or after each use. Have fun.
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Old 01-14-2013, 01:51 PM   #8
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Ok, yeah I don't seem to have one of those. Need to go pick one up and what's the best way to oil the tools up
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Old 01-14-2013, 02:36 PM   #9
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Ok, yeah I don't seem to have one of those. Need to go pick one up and what's the best way to oil the tools up
The old fashion way. Most tools come with a little bottle of oil that is made for air tools it is clear. Just place a drop it the air inlet hook up the hose and pull the trigger for a few seconds to make sure it don't spray all over. If not you can put an oiler inline after the water separator but if you are going to spray paint then you don't want the inline oiler. I like old fashion.
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Old 01-15-2013, 02:42 PM   #10
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So now I have another problem. So the rusted nuts and bolts that caused me to buy the compressor and air tools still won't come off. Now I'm ready to just cut these b****** off. My question is there a saw blade I can hook up to the air hose and how much should that run me? Also, will it hook straight up to the hose or do I need an attachment handle
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:02 PM   #11
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They make a small reciprocating type air saw, not sure how much, probably not too bad, most air tools are pretty cheap compared to electric. Are you using an air ratchet or an impact wrench? The air ratchet won't do much on those rusted ones, you really need an impact wrench to horse them off.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:17 PM   #12
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Liquid wrench or PB Blast and a impact wrench should get your nuts loose. There are stronger products like PB Blast of witch I can't think of the name right now.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:22 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
They make a small reciprocating type air saw, not sure how much, probably not too bad, most air tools are pretty cheap compared to electric. Are you using an air ratchet or an impact wrench? The air ratchet won't do much on those rusted ones, you really need an impact wrench to horse them off.
Yeah I've tried using the impact wrench. The problem with using either is that I'm trying to remove the shield that protects the front coil springs and the nuts and bolts have been loosened but for some reason get stuck halfway off. So using the impact on either side just spins the nut and bolt together. I've also tried putting a handheld wrench on one side for counter pressure but it didn't work as well. That's why I was just thinking of cutting all the bolts off

---------- Post added at 12:22 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:19 PM ----------

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Liquid wrench or PB Blast and a impact wrench should get your nuts loose. There are stronger products like PB Blast of witch I can't think of the name right now.
I've tried the PB blaster but like I just wrote to aggie, the nuts get stuck about halfway up the bolts thread and just doesn't move any more
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:24 PM   #14
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soak them with liquid wrench, then have a buddy hold the opposite side with a socket and a long handled drive, or use a short cheater bar over the socket, if it's moved that much it should come out. But if you have enough bolt exposed you could cut them, too.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:29 PM   #15
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soak them with liquid wrench, then have a buddy hold the opposite side with a socket and a long handled drive, or use a short cheater bar over the socket, if it's moved that much it should come out. But if you have enough bolt exposed you could cut them, too.
Is that the same kind of stuff as PB?
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:33 PM   #16
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Similar, I use Liquid Wrench, but it shouldn't be that much different. As long as its a deep penetrating lubricant.

---------- Post added at 03:33 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:31 PM ----------

Can you tighten them back a little, then spray some penetrating oil and maybe clean the threads a little with a wire brush, then try again.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:33 PM   #17
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Similar, I use Liquid Wrench, but it shouldn't be that much different. As long as its a deep penetrating lubricant.
Ok I'll try that technique before cutting them off. Gotta call a friend for extra hands since I doubt the wife has that much strength lol
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:36 PM   #18
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Is that the same kind of stuff as PB?
Yup PB blast is the stuff to use. Get a friend and a six pack have the friend hold the bolt with a wrench and a cheater bar (I use a piece of fence pole about 4feet long). Get the bolts off then have a cold beverage caution no cold beverages before attempting this I don't need to see a YouTube video of you going hey watch this.
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Old 01-15-2013, 03:48 PM   #19
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Ok I'll try that technique before cutting them off. Gotta call a friend for extra hands since I doubt the wife has that much strength lol
With a long cheater bar 4 foot as suggested, it won't take a lot of strength to hold it. My wife loves helping me (LOL) especially if we're unloading sheetrock, but that's another story.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:12 PM   #20
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If it is taking that much effort to get the nuts off after being loos and half off, then I'm guessing the threads are messed up and you'll want new bolts anyway. Cutting them may be an option. I just don't like power tools that can hurt you in tight places. I've been bit once or twice. Lol.
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:14 PM   #21
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If it is taking that much effort to get the nuts off after being loos and half off, then I'm guessing the threads are messed up and you'll want new bolts anyway. Cutting them may be an option. I just don't like power tools that can hurt you in tight places. I've been bit once or twice. Lol.
Instead of getting under the fender, I was just planning on cutting it from the nut side in the engine bay. More available access that way
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Old 01-15-2013, 04:22 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by iStang65

Instead of getting under the fender, I was just planning on cutting it from the nut side in the engine bay. More available access that way
Cutting always a last resort but sometime necessary! Good luck man. Hope you get them little.......
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Old 01-15-2013, 11:38 PM   #23
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So I ended up not getting the saw because all the air cut off's that I saw wouldn't fit into the space available (as I thought I had enough room). I tried tightening the bolts back and cleaning with a wire brush and sprayed some more PB and all bolts still get stuck same place on thread. Does anyone else have another idea or a better saw? The picture I attached is the one I was looking to buy but because of the safety feature (the half circle protector) it won't allow me to put the saw blade where I need it.

Also, can I replace the coil spring, shocks, and control arms without removing this shield?
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:24 AM   #24
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The best penetrating oil on the market is kroil oil by kaino labs. It sounds like the threads are messed up, I dout you can get a thread file in there, if not you'll have to cut. If a die grinder won't fit, you'll have to use a cutting torch.
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Old 01-16-2013, 06:38 AM   #25
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So I ended up not getting the saw because all the air cut off's that I saw wouldn't fit into the space available (as I thought I had enough room). I tried tightening the bolts back and cleaning with a wire brush and sprayed some more PB and all bolts still get stuck same place on thread. Does anyone else have another idea or a better saw? The picture I attached is the one I was looking to buy but because of the safety feature (the half circle protector) it won't allow me to put the saw blade where I need it.

Also, can I replace the coil spring, shocks, and control arms without removing this shield?
Get a dermal cut off saw it will fit in there and with other attachments it is really handy to have around. Just get a lot of cut off disk and go slow it will work like a champ.
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Old 01-16-2013, 07:29 AM   #26
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Usually those guards can come off. Just be damn careful! I've also seen smaller ones. Find one of those discount tool stores, i see them there all the time.
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Old 01-16-2013, 08:26 AM   #27
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You don't have to have them off to replace other components. Your picture is a cut off wheel. I think what has been suggested is a saw. I have heard them referred to as body saws. I'll look for a link unless somebody beats me to it.
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Old 01-16-2013, 09:32 AM   #28
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I though this is what you were looking for all along. I don't think a cutoff wheel is what you need, it'll tear up more than the bolts in that space.
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Old 01-16-2013, 11:59 AM   #29
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I though this is what you were looking for all along. I don't think a cutoff wheel is what you need, it'll tear up more than the bolts in that space.
Is this saw something I can find at a ACE hardware store, Sears, or another tool place?
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Old 01-16-2013, 12:03 PM   #30
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That sawz all is bigger than a die grinder.
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Old 01-16-2013, 01:26 PM   #31
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Not technically a Sawsall. Only slightly longer than a small cut off wheel. IR tool above is what I have been assuming as well.

---------- Post added at 02:26 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:26 PM ----------

Sears should have one.
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Old 01-16-2013, 03:01 PM   #32
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Is this saw something I can find at a ACE hardware store, Sears, or another tool place?
That pic is from summit racing, but as mentioned, sears probably. O'Reillys and NAPA and most auto parts stores sell some air tools. You can probably rent it for a couple of bucks from a rental store.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:12 PM   #33
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Far be it for me to "forego safety" (haha) the guard can be removed for better access. I would get the head out as far as you can but not crank down trying to draw them all the way out, slice the heads off and lock on a pair of vice grips to the bad thread side and turn it out from the back side.

---------- Post added at 05:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------

And if you've got a Northern or Harbor Freight, I picked up one for 20 bucks. I used to consider their tools cheap but I did cut out floor pans, quarter panels, taillight panel, and roof skin with mine and its still ticking fine.
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:15 PM   #34
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Far be it for me to "forego safety" (haha) the guard can be removed for better access. I would get the head out as far as you can but not crank down trying to draw them all the way out, slice the heads off and lock on a pair of vice grips to the bad thread side and turn it out from the back side.

---------- Post added at 05:12 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:08 PM ----------

And if you've got a Northern or Harbor Freight, I picked up one for 20 bucks. I used to consider their tools cheap but I did cut out floor pans, quarter panels, taillight panel, and roof skin with mine and its still ticking fine.
Don't have either one of those here in Alaska haha. Ill try one last thing before I cut them off and that's remove the fenders so I can have easier access underneath the fender instead of climbing in all the mess just to get to the bolts
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Old 01-16-2013, 04:40 PM   #35
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One more idea, that they will have at Sears (should). Use a nut splitter. It's looks like a bottle opener, but you place the nut inside the hold and tighten it. Then you can hit it with a small hand sledge and it drives the nut into a hardened steel blade, eventually splitting the nut. It's a little caveman, but I've used it before.
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