1966 mustang V6 push rods issues - Mustang Evolution

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Old 01-21-2013, 11:28 PM   #1
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1966 mustang V6 push rods issues

I just replace the head gasket/valve cover/ thermostat&gasket on my 66 automatic V6 mustang.
I did not keep the push rods in the order there where before I remove the head, so after putting everything back, car runs good, no issues, but every time I give it gas I can hear a rattleing noise coming from the rods.
If I drive normal, there is no noise, however if I step on the gas to go fast The rattleling gets worse and stays until I let go of the gas. if I manteing a steady speed and slowly increase the speed there is no noticeable noise.
The part store told me I need it to buy new ones, but how will the rattle go away? they also told me to roll the push rods on a flat surface to see if they where straight or bend, and at least 6 push road look a little out of shape.
I bought the car a few months ago and I have been replacing parts as need it, the car shock and rattle a lot before.
I have replace the U joints on the drive shaft, balance the wheels, lower ball joints, all the shocks, now new head gasket, intake gasket, valve cover gasket, the car runs way better now.
any ideas of what to do about these rattleling? and would it damage anything inside the engine if I continue to drive it with these noise?
thanks for the information.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:27 AM   #2
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Are you sure the rattling is in the top end? Does it also rattle when you let off the gas and let the engine slow down the car? (Without using the brakes)
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:34 AM   #3
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No noise at all once I let go of the gas "if I step hard on the gas" only makes the rattle, almost like the push rods move faster than normal at acceleration and it makes all these noise,
With the car parked, engine running if I rev the engine it makes the rattle most noticeable and louder since of course the hood is open and I'm right by the carb.
But only makes the noise when I step hard on the gas pedal, otherwise is not noticeable at normal take off and normal driving.
But driving here on the streets or freeways you know we have to step on the gas constantly to get out of the way or merge into traffic.
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Old 01-22-2013, 08:52 AM   #4
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You may have detonation
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That's unimpressive
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:13 AM   #5
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I took a video, lets see if anyone can hear the noise and where is coming from? it was no noise before I replace the head gasket and after mixing up all the push rods after installation
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:17 AM   #6
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video
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:39 AM   #7
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Well I cannot post pictures, I get a "unable to load files, patch missing or something like that, and video will not work, I recorded it with an IPhone 4S
Will try again later, I have jury duty today.

---------- Post added at 10:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:34 AM ----------

Will try posting from my phone instead of the computer

---------- Post added at 10:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:37 AM ----------

Maybe pics will work?
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Old 01-22-2013, 10:58 AM   #8
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Not able to post pic's or video from my phone.
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Old 01-22-2013, 11:41 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by leftoverbolts View Post
I took a video, lets see if anyone can hear the noise and where is coming from? it was no noise before I replace the head gasket and after mixing up all the push rods after installation
If you have some that are slightly bent, it will only get worse. Did you go through each push rod and adjust them after replacing the head gasket or did you just set the rods and bolt the head back to the block?
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:03 PM   #10
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On that engine they are not adjustable. I agree with the previous post suggesting detonation. Recheck the ignition timing before you tear back into the engine. Base timing with vacuum disconnected should be 10 deg BTDC. You might be able to do more but you should not until you get this sorted out. Detonation usually doesn't happen with no load though.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:37 PM   #11
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I just set the push rods back and torque the bolts at 15lbs.
However the rattle noise is coming front the top valve cover, closes to the firewall, I will get new ones today once done with the jury duty service, sitting here in the jury room sure is fun! Yeah right.
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Old 01-22-2013, 12:58 PM   #12
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Video is 10.47 MB and yet I cannot upload.
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Old 01-22-2013, 01:55 PM   #13
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Quote:
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On that engine they are not adjustable. I agree with the previous post suggesting detonation. Recheck the ignition timing before you tear back into the engine. Base timing with vacuum disconnected should be 10 deg BTDC. You might be able to do more but you should not until you get this sorted out. Detonation usually doesn't happen with no load though.
They were adjustable by using different length push rods. They sold an oversize and an undersize in addtion to the standard length. If it was not rattling like that before and he mixed up the old rods relative to cylinder and some were slightly bent. He could have a push rod problem.
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Old 01-22-2013, 02:38 PM   #14
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It could be the pushrods but adjustment by changing pushrod length of individual lifters is not the likely solution. My point was that the timing could be off causing a noise and it is so much easier to fix.
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Old 01-22-2013, 04:05 PM   #15
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Ok
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:41 PM   #16
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well these are adjustable push rods, I just came back from the library and check out the books, these have a single screw and the piston has to be TDC 1-exhaust, 2-exhaust, 3-intake and so on, well there you have it, I will do these tomorrow and see what diference if any these adjustments make, or if I did it right.
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Old 01-22-2013, 05:49 PM   #17
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wait a minute I just looked at the pictures and I dont see the damn adjustement screw, what the hell?
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:33 PM   #18
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Here is an adjustable rocker arm. The '66 arms were not adjustable. Earlier 6 cylinders were.


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I hope the image comes thru.
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Old 01-22-2013, 09:44 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matcox83 View Post
Here is an adjustable rocker arm. The '66 arms were not adjustable. Earlier 6 cylinders were.

I hope the image comes thru.
BTW- on this engine it's called an I-6 for inline instead of V6.
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Old 01-25-2013, 06:51 PM   #20
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I got new push rods, got them installed, car runs better now however the rattle is not from the top of the engine, is coming front the driver side lower section.
Possible from the front lower part, the mechanic told me that it could be the timing chain.
I will try to change it myself, mechanic wants $200 just to check to see if that's where the noise is coming from, but I would rather check it myself.
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Old 01-25-2013, 08:36 PM   #21
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You can get an inexpensive mechanics stethoscope or just a loonngg screwdriver and touch various parts of the block to see where the noise is loudest. If your timing chain is VERY loose it could be slapping the inside of the cover. It might even be the fuel pump lever arm where it rides on the cam. Cam turns at half the speed of the crank, so you might be able to tell a difference between something turned by the crank (pistons/rods, timing chain) and something actuated by the cam (rockers, fuel pump). Good luck and make sure to tell us what it is when you nail it.
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Old 01-26-2013, 12:19 AM   #22
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If the timing chain was that loose the motor would run like **** because it would be too far out of time. How is your oil pressure? I'm thinking maybe a rod bearing.
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Old 01-26-2013, 10:37 AM   #23
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Chain could definitely be that loose. If he just got it a few months ago, he doesn't have anything to compare to performance-wise. Bearings are a much heavier noise, clearly lower in the block. Doesn't sound like what he described to me, but that's the weakness of Internet diagnosis. I'm sure any number of us could help if we were there.
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Old 01-26-2013, 11:09 AM   #24
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Chain could definitely be that loose. If he just got it a few months ago, he doesn't have anything to compare to performance-wise. Bearings are a much heavier noise, clearly lower in the block. Doesn't sound like what he described to me, but that's the weakness of Internet diagnosis. I'm sure any number of us could help if we were there.
Timing chain makes sense and it goes along with your earlier suggestion of a timing issue. New timing chain could fix both problems.
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Old 01-27-2013, 09:58 PM   #25
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I ordered the timing chain, gaskets, water pump and gasket since I'm removing it anyways, just waiting for the parts so I can get it done.
I'm thinking 2 to 3 hours tops
I have review some videos, it seems easy.
will post how everything went.
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Old 01-28-2013, 11:01 PM   #26
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all done, no more noise, so the lesson here was, if replacing head gasket for whatever reason, do the timing chain, water pump. it's way easier thanks.
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:13 AM   #27
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all done, no more noise, so the lesson here was, if replacing head gasket for whatever reason, do the timing chain, water pump. it's way easier thanks.
Glad it's fixed. That's cool.
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Old 01-29-2013, 10:58 AM   #28
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Sweet!
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