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Old 02-07-2013, 04:41 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by Mlarv5 View Post

Can you here it run and drive the truck? Do you trust your friend? If so a full engine at 450 that is running with no problems seems fair to me with only 80k miles on it the rebuild should be pretty easy. Make sure to pull the dip stick and look at the oil no matter what anybody tells ya. If it is milky and in the truck I would only offer 250 to 300 because you will not know what caused the water to get in the oil. What is he doing with the rest of the truck? Why is he parting it out?

Cost of an engine depends on where you are at, if there are a lot of them to be had then they cost less if there are not so many around then they cost more. I would call a few junk yards and see what they are asking and work from there.
It's not longer in the truck. Truck was hit in the front and totaled so he's parting everything out.

---------- Post added at 01:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------

Is it better to get the engine and then acquire the tools as I will need them or round up the tools then engine?
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Old 02-07-2013, 04:56 PM   #37
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It's not longer in the truck. Truck was hit in the front and totaled so he's parting everything out.

---------- Post added at 01:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:41 PM ----------

Is it better to get the engine and then acquire the tools as I will need them or round up the tools then engine?
Assuming that he's a friend and if it's bad, he won't screw you or that you're bigger than him and can kick his ***. As long as it ran good before and took no damage in the wreck.
You'll the basics at first and probably some metric since it's an 80's engine for disassembly. But most special stuff will be needed for reassembly with the exception of a valve spring compressor and harmonic balancer puller. An impact wrench for have a huge benefit for tear down.
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Old 02-07-2013, 05:37 PM   #38
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Id just buy a basic set and an impact. And if you can borrow tools if you can. If you have to borrow more than twice then maybe buy what you need
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Old 02-09-2013, 04:09 PM   #39
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So now I have the option of a '84 351 that's standard bore and fuel injected. Would this be an alright engine block to strip down, and rebuild carbureted to drop in the car?
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Old 02-09-2013, 05:54 PM   #40
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So now I have the option of a '84 351 that's standard bore and fuel injected. Would this be an alright engine block to strip down, and rebuild carbureted to drop in the car?
that would be an excellent carb build.
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Old 02-09-2013, 06:25 PM   #41
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that would be an excellent carb build.
How much different is the block going to be compared to a much earlier 351 block? This is my first time so I'm not quite sure if the block has always been the same or if they change with years
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Old 02-10-2013, 04:37 PM   #42
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How much different is the block going to be compared to a much earlier 351 block? This is my first time so I'm not quite sure if the block has always been the same or if they change with years
all 351w blocks are the same with the exception of the deck height. up to 1974 351w deck heights were 9.48". from there through the early 90s the deck height was 9.508", and from there to the end of 351w production the deck height was something like 9.548". everything else was pretty much the same. all had the same strength, could handle the same amount of power before they split, had the same balance factor, the same firing order, etc. there were detail differences like compression ratio changes due to piston dish changes, and later 351ws were EFI motors, and some had roller cams.

in the end pick a good 351w block, and by that i mean one that has minimum wear, and good main bearing caps(351ws tend to spin the number two main bearing), and build away.
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:19 PM   #43
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So another 351 has come across my way except it is a bare block with casting numbers D2AE-6015-BA-14. So is this 72 block a decent starting point for a rebuild? Owner states its standard bore never been rebuilt. Attached a pic of it
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:28 PM   #44
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Looks good. If the price is right id get it
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:32 PM   #45
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Guy asking 100obo
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:41 PM   #46
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Id get it
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:45 PM   #47
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Id get it
Alright. Just wanted to make sure it was a decent price. Wasn't sure what the going rate was for bare blocks
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:46 PM   #48
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Id call some junk yards around you and see what they want for full engines
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:47 PM   #49
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Id call some junk yards around you and see what they want for full engines
No junk yards up here in Alaska are stocking any 351s or 302s. Tried them earlier
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:50 PM   #50
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No one cl either?

---------- Post added at 06:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:49 PM ----------

No one on cl either *
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Old 03-11-2013, 09:52 PM   #51
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No one cl either?

---------- Post added at 06:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:49 PM ----------

No one on cl either *
One guy 5 hours from me but wanted 600 and the drive wasn't worth it
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:10 PM   #52
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Well then yeah it seems like a fair deal to me just make sure theres no major scratches on the cylinders walls and theres no play in the rotation assembly
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:11 PM   #53
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Well then yeah it seems like a fair deal to me just make sure theres no major scratches on the cylinders walls and theres no play in the rotation assembly
Can you explain a little more when you say no play in the rotation assembly
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:06 PM   #54
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Like when you turn the crank make sure all the pistons turn at the same time
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:08 PM   #55
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Like when you turn the crank make sure all the pistons turn at the same time
No pistons or rods included. Literally bare block

---------- Post added at 07:08 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:07 PM ----------

Got him down to 60$ so I think it's not a bad deal for a bare block '72 351w
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:09 PM   #56
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Ohhh i see the pictures had pistons in them then id get it!
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:21 PM   #57
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Ohhh i see the pictures had pistons in them then id get it!
Ha you showed me. I didn't even pay that close attention to the picture. It does have the pistons in them. Well then they're included because he did say what you see is what you get
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:49 PM   #58
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Haha well just make sure they all move at the same time
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:04 AM   #59
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Haha well just make sure they all move at the same time
I'm taking a guess ya just turn the crank and it should move them all?
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:09 AM   #60
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Yes
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:10 AM   #61
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Yes
Thanks for your help
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Old 03-12-2013, 12:11 AM   #62
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Yeah no problem!
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Old 03-12-2013, 05:00 AM   #63
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I'm taking a guess ya just turn the crank and it should move them all?
Yes before you do that put a bit of oil on the cylinder walls to make it easier. Just use a rag with a little oil on it. When you pull this block apart make sure you keep the end caps and push rods in order and together. If you reuse them then they are in order if not then it does not matter. Do the same thing with the crank bearing caps keep them in order, they may or may not be marked but I never trust that on older engines.

Looks like fun
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