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Old 02-28-2013, 10:28 AM   #1
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Brake Job

67 Coupe with 289, front power disc and rear drum...
Pedal went to floor, it had sucked all brake fluid from front resevoir. I pulled off front wheels and the rotors are ate up, but no sign of calipers leaking. Obviously it's leaking somewhere, I guess it must be the master cylinder, but not sure. I'm getting new rotors and pads, should I just replace the master cylinder also?
And I noticed the pads were worn much more at the top then the bottom. It's the four piston caliper. It appears that the pads were previously replaced without turning the rotors. The uneven wear may be due to that. When I released the pistons in order to remove the pads, they all seemed to have even pressure. So my question for this is, do I need to replace the calipers or do they just need to taken apart and cleaned up?
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:17 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
67 Coupe with 289, front power disc and rear drum...
Pedal went to floor, it had sucked all brake fluid from front resevoir. I pulled off front wheels and the rotors are ate up, but no sign of calipers leaking. Obviously it's leaking somewhere, I guess it must be the master cylinder, but not sure. I'm getting new rotors and pads, should I just replace the master cylinder also?
And I noticed the pads were worn much more at the top then the bottom. It's the four piston caliper. It appears that the pads were previously replaced without turning the rotors. The uneven wear may be due to that. When I released the pistons in order to remove the pads, they all seemed to have even pressure. So my question for this is, do I need to replace the calipers or do they just need to taken apart and cleaned up?
You say the front reservoir was empty how was the back? Are they power assisted if so is there any rust or fluid on the front of the booster? If not then follow the lines down to the portioner and see if the block is leaking then out to each wheel. Brakes are pretty easy on these style cars just follow the lines.

The calipers sound like they are all right to me.

To figure out where the leak is I would get a cheap vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the lines and see if it holds. Harbor Freight has a brake bleeder kit that works great for this. Just fill up the reservoir and connect the bleeder to the passenger side bleeder screw and pump away it will pull the fluid and if there is a leak you will see it. Then do the same with the drivers side and check if no leaks then you have the brakes bleed and ready to go. If you are doing all four then start passenger side rear then drivers side rear then passenger front and last drivers front. This is the best way to bleed them without any help or pumping on the pedal.
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 02-28-2013, 11:27 AM   #3
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You say the front reservoir was empty how was the back? Are they power assisted if so is there any rust or fluid on the front of the booster? If not then follow the lines down to the portioner and see if the block is leaking then out to each wheel. Brakes are pretty easy on these style cars just follow the lines.

The calipers sound like they are all right to me.

To figure out where the leak is I would get a cheap vacuum pump and pull a vacuum on the lines and see if it holds. Harbor Freight has a brake bleeder kit that works great for this. Just fill up the reservoir and connect the bleeder to the passenger side bleeder screw and pump away it will pull the fluid and if there is a leak you will see it. Then do the same with the drivers side and check if no leaks then you have the brakes bleed and ready to go. If you are doing all four then start passenger side rear then drivers side rear then passenger front and last drivers front. This is the best way to bleed them without any help or pumping on the pedal.
The front was empty to the point of sucking the rubber lid seal inside out. The rear chamber was above halfway.
I picked up a vacuum brake bleeding kit. The other strange thing is the master cylinder has two equal sized chambers and the replacements online seem to have one smaller than the other. Also there is a proportioning valve (as expected) and an adjustable valve after it between the prop valve and rear brakes.
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Old 02-28-2013, 12:21 PM   #4
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The front was empty to the point of sucking the rubber lid seal inside out. The rear chamber was above halfway.
I picked up a vacuum brake bleeding kit. The other strange thing is the master cylinder has two equal sized chambers and the replacements online seem to have one smaller than the other. Also there is a proportioning valve (as expected) and an adjustable valve after it between the prop valve and rear brakes.
I have not worked on older brakes in a long time but if I remember correctly the two chambers should be different sizes. I am thinking they did not do a complete install of Disk brakes they just did the minimal to make them work. I would look around I am pretty sure you need a portioning valve when you have the booster.
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:01 PM   #5
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I have not worked on older brakes in a long time but if I remember correctly the two chambers should be different sizes. I am thinking they did not do a complete install of Disk brakes they just did the minimal to make them work. I would look around I am pretty sure you need a portioning valve when you have the booster.
I checked it at lunch. It's rusty and below the booster is rusty. It's definitely the wrong master cylinder, I checked the shop manual.
It has two proportioning valves I believe, I know one is needed.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:57 PM   #6
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I checked it at lunch. It's rusty and below the booster is rusty. It's definitely the wrong master cylinder, I checked the shop manual.
It has two proportioning valves I believe, I know one is needed.
Well the rust tells me the MC is leaking out the back. So if you have the cash flow I would also replace the booster because it will go bad shortly after you replace the MC and add the proportioning valve. With the rear being drum then only one is needed. If they rate them you want about 60 to 80 percent to the front on that car and the rest to the rear.

Have fun
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:22 PM   #7
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What is an indication that the booster is going bad? Can I tell when I remove the MC? Isn't it the bladder that goes bad in the booster for the most part? It holds a vacuum.
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Old 02-28-2013, 02:35 PM   #8
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Bit the bullet and ordered a booster. I want to do this once.
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289 - Holley 4150 570cfm; Performer intake; mild cam; MSD HEI; 302 heads; Roller Tips; Hedman Tri-Y headers; H-pipe w/Flowmaster 40's; 9 in posi 3.50; 205/50-17F; 225/50-17R.
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:05 PM   #9
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What is an indication that the booster is going bad? Can I tell when I remove the MC? Isn't it the bladder that goes bad in the booster for the most part? It holds a vacuum.
A lot of times it will not show any signs but the fluid normally causes the bladder to go bad in a few thousand miles. At least that has been my experience with the older boosters. The newer ones I am not sure of because I have not seen a bad one in years because I trade out cars and trucks when they hit 100K or so.

When they go bad you should hear a vacuum leak and the engine will run ruff and not idle so well. You don't have to do it right now just watch and listen for it. On a side note you taken you car to the Get together in June?
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 02-28-2013, 03:32 PM   #10
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A lot of times it will not show any signs but the fluid normally causes the bladder to go bad in a few thousand miles. At least that has been my experience with the older boosters. The newer ones I am not sure of because I have not seen a bad one in years because I trade out cars and trucks when they hit 100K or so.

When they go bad you should hear a vacuum leak and the engine will run ruff and not idle so well. You don't have to do it right now just watch and listen for it. On a side note you taken you car to the Get together in June?
Are you talking about in MO? No, it's a pretty long haul from Central Texas. I'd love to go.
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289 - Holley 4150 570cfm; Performer intake; mild cam; MSD HEI; 302 heads; Roller Tips; Hedman Tri-Y headers; H-pipe w/Flowmaster 40's; 9 in posi 3.50; 205/50-17F; 225/50-17R.
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:19 PM   #11
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Are you talking about in MO? No, it's a pretty long haul from Central Texas. I'd love to go.
That be the one in MO.
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 02-28-2013, 04:32 PM   #12
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That be the one in MO.
It's actually my son's 67, I've got an 07. That would be a good trip. Thanks for all of your help.
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chevy runs deep, Don't step in chevy!

289 - Holley 4150 570cfm; Performer intake; mild cam; MSD HEI; 302 heads; Roller Tips; Hedman Tri-Y headers; H-pipe w/Flowmaster 40's; 9 in posi 3.50; 205/50-17F; 225/50-17R.
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Old 02-28-2013, 05:31 PM   #13
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It's actually my son's 67, I've got an 07. That would be a good trip. Thanks for all of your help.
No problem
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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