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Old 03-09-2013, 11:38 PM   #1
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Head gasket replacement

I have a lot of white smoke coming from my right tail pipe. Loss of coolant, noticeable cylinder misfire, and a rough idle. Obvious symptoms of a broken head gasket, right? If so, I'd like to do it myself. With an old 289 and a giant engine bay it seems like the job is as simple as it could get. But I'm a youngen. Do you think I could do this myself with a little help from my dad? I have a Hybes manual that might help but what is the process like? Thanks for replies

---------- Post added at 11:38 PM ---------- Previous post was at 11:37 PM ----------

*Haynes manual
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Old 03-09-2013, 11:48 PM   #2
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It's very simple, take your time and follow the manual. Make sure you keep track of where the bolts go so there's no confusion on reassembly. Also little trick the Haynes manual may not say is to dip the head bolts in some clean oil before you install and torque them.
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Old 03-10-2013, 11:46 AM   #3
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Keep track of where your pushrods go. They need to go back in the same position along with the rocker arms, etc.
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Old 03-10-2013, 10:04 PM   #4
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you also want to true up the cylinder head surface as well. you can do this with a straight piece of rectangular tubing, say 2x3x12, and sandpaper and emory cloth. start with 600 grit sandpaper and finish with the emory cloth.
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Old 03-11-2013, 05:38 AM   #5
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A Few tricks to help.

Take pictures of where all the bolts come from and put them in 1 quart zip lock bags along with marking them and take a picture of them in the bag so you know where they go when you put it back together.

1 Grab an old shoe box and poke 8 holes in it about 1/4" on one side and the same on the other. As you pull the push rods place then in the corresponding holes.

2 Might as well do both side at once and do not place the head face down on the concrete floor

3 If I was going to be doing this I would replace the valve seals at the same time

4 If replacing valve seals see trick above with the shoe box to place the valves in
and put the keepers with them in a

5 As you take the Tappers off place them in the show box in order so you can put them back in the same spot.

6 Clean clean clean as you go and start replacing things

7 You might need to re-tap the exhaust manifold threads (I would)

You will need a few tools that might not be in your box already

Valve spring compressor
Lapping tool and lapping compound
Feeler Gauge
Torque wrench
Gasket scraper or a good razor scraper
Lots of rags to plug each cylinder hole while you are cleaning around it

Gaskets make sure you get reusable valve cover gaskets because you will be pulling then off at least once more to adjust them.

While you are in there check the top of the cylinder and see how big of a ridge there.

When I used to do this a lot I had another set of valve covers with the top cut out so I could adjust the valves and not get oil every where.
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Old 03-11-2013, 07:45 AM   #6
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It is not a hard job but it will take a long time the tear down doesnt take that long maybe 2 hours if you keep working at it the rebuild is what takes a long time there are a lot to the process to torque all the bolts and get it just right so its running like a new engine again I would recomend taking the head to the machine shop and have them go over it all. Magnaflux it and check for straightness and have him check the valves for leaks and all that yoy dont want to spend all that time and it not be right when your done so spend the little extra time and money now to do it right the first time I would even recomend doing both sides if this side has blown odds are the other side is not far behind. And especially because the other side is working like new those pistons are producing more power then the other side so would recomend spending the time and money doing botg sides and yes you will notice a little more power after the rebuild
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #7
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I need to make more time to do it I wish this happened over the summer oh well I'm up for the challenge thanks for everything guys I needed some different views on the subject. Is it worth it to take the hood off?
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:03 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LukeRailey68 View Post
I need to make more time to do it I wish this happened over the summer oh well I'm up for the challenge thanks for everything guys I needed some different views on the subject. Is it worth it to take the hood off?

To me it is just to get it out of the way. Before you take it off take a sharpie and mark the spot where the hinges sit on the side and the front that way when you are putting it back on you have it marked to make it easier.
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Old 03-11-2013, 11:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
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I need to make more time to do it I wish this happened over the summer oh well I'm up for the challenge thanks for everything guys I needed some different views on the subject. Is it worth it to take the hood off?
taking the hood off is not a bad choice, but when i am just changing a head gasket i leave it in place. it just depends on how much extra work you are willing to do.
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Old 03-11-2013, 01:26 PM   #10
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Theres really no need to take the hood when I was doing a head gasket on a sn95 mustang I left it on and let it down to hold the blacket in pkace to keep it clean. But if your gonna pull the motor out to do it taking the hood off is a must. Optional if you do it still in the car
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Old 03-11-2013, 03:55 PM   #11
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Ill leave the hood on. I'm about to get started wish me luck
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Old 03-11-2013, 04:46 PM   #12
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Ill leave the hood on. I'm about to get started wish me luck
luck, hopefully all good.
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Old 03-11-2013, 10:07 PM   #13
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So far all good. Productive night

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Old 03-12-2013, 02:34 PM   #14
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Yeah and you still have a lot of work ahead of you good luck bud
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Old 03-14-2013, 07:25 AM   #15
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Hows it going there bud?
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Old 03-14-2013, 08:29 AM   #16
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Yesterday I had a little extra time in the evening so I took my intake off quickly and I was able to leave my distributor on. Next time I jump on it ill take the headers and cylinder heads off and that's about the furthest ill go correct? I have head gaskets but I'm thinking I should put on a few other gaskets. Like the carburetor and intake? What else?
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Old 03-14-2013, 10:01 AM   #17
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Quote:
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Yesterday I had a little extra time in the evening so I took my intake off quickly and I was able to leave my distributor on. Next time I jump on it ill take the headers and cylinder heads off and that's about the furthest ill go correct? I have head gaskets but I'm thinking I should put on a few other gaskets. Like the carburetor and intake? What else?
If you are not going to pull the valves then
Head gasket
Intake gasket
Exhaust gasket
Carburetor gasket
Thermostat housing gasket

Should be all you need.
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Old 03-14-2013, 01:52 PM   #18
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Basically replace all the seals you took off
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Old 04-05-2013, 03:52 PM   #19
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Hey guys can you all tell me what gaskets these are?

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Old 04-05-2013, 04:29 PM   #20
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Looks like some 5.0L gaskets. I see the upper to lower intake, EGR valve, a couple of t'stat gaskets, intake end pieces. Don't know what the large round one are? 5.0L guys??

---------- Post added at 04:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:27 PM ----------

Quote:
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Looks like some 5.0L gaskets. I see the upper to lower intake, EGR valve, a couple of t'stat gaskets, intake end pieces. Don't know what the large round one are? 5.0L guys??
And maybe an idle air bypass valve gasket?
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:30 PM   #21
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I got the set from advance auto parts. I'm missing head gaskets as well.
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Old 04-05-2013, 10:52 PM   #22
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What did you tell them you need?
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Old 04-05-2013, 11:25 PM   #23
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I got the set from advance auto parts. I'm missing head gaskets as well.
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:55 AM   #24
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289 engine gaskets and they had a set but I don't know what those are pictured
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Old 04-06-2013, 01:07 AM   #25
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For what year?
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Old 04-06-2013, 11:50 AM   #26
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68
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:02 PM   #27
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Hmm well looks like you got what you didnt ask for try calling them and ask what comes in the gasket kit
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Old 04-06-2013, 12:03 PM   #28
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I will for sure I'm about to get some high heat primer for my valve covers from there.
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:05 PM   #29
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Wow can't believe it's been this long. I CANNOT get my car to run. I have double checked everything. New spark plugs new oil new solenoid. I have an electric ignition. My distributor is pointed at 1 when 1 cylinder is all the way up. But I just can't get a combustion. What am I doing wrong?

---------- Post added at 05:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 05:04 PM ----------

I have a lot of carb back fire. And I never took my distributor out
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:09 PM   #30
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Your timing is off if its back firing out of the carb
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:12 PM   #31
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Should I turn the distributor till I get something?
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:44 PM   #32
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You should get a timing light really its te only way to really to properly time your car
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:49 PM   #33
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I have a light but no mark
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:51 PM   #34
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No mark on what? The balancer?
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Old 05-01-2013, 05:54 PM   #35
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Right
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