Update on my '78 Mustang II - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-01-2013, 02:18 AM   #1
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Update on my '78 Mustang II

I got her licensed vintage on August 28th. Replaced some fuses and fixed a broken wire going to my brake light switch fixing my brake lights and my dash not lighting up (that one was the fuses) Drove her around for about 30 miles realizing my tach had stopped working and my speedometer is not only jumping around sporadically but when its not doing that its as much as 10 mph below my actual speed. Found the oil leak I was told about, turns out it was the right hand valve cover seal ... the idiot had used silicon to keep the gasket in! Now I am no mechanic by any means and even I know that is bad. Removed the valve cover and scrapped off all the silicon from the cover and header and replaced it.

On Thursday on my way to work, a 6 mile drive I lost power in the engine about 2 miles from my work while driving up a hill, got to the top and the power loss was still there and pulled over, checked the engine and realized I had no fuel running and oil all over my engine and underneath my hood again on the right side, after pushing the car onto my father-in-laws trailer we stopped at O'Reilly's and picked up a fuel pump and oil pressure sending unit for the light and brought it home and replaced the valve cover seal again.

Friday I took my fiancee to work and again lost power driving up a hill reduced me to 5 mph on a main road, I pulled over looked under the hood and once again found oil on the underneath of the hood but not nearly as much and not all over the engine like last time, just the underneath of the hood. I attributed the power loss to my bad timing and carb adjustments my brother-in-law made by ear (a mechanic by trade who turned my screws all the way in and then adjusted the timing so she idled good at this setting, I believe the carb is starving for air and gas), got my fiancee to work and back home. Re-adjusted the carb mixture till she was idling a bit better and then later on drove to work since I saw no further sign of oil flying out of the engine. On my way to work I lost some power going up that same hill as yesterday but only lost 5-10 mph this time, so I am convinced it is my timing and carb I have an appointment on Wednesday to get her tuned at a performance shop.

All said and done I am just under $1170 in repairs including cost of buying and registering her. That will adjust to just under $1270 on Wednesday. Also I found out my Airintake Manifold is an Edelbrock 289 Performer series and the carb is a Edelbrock Performer series 1406 with .098 primary mains and .095 secondary mains with the yellow step up spring and I have an all MSD ignition system no details on that yet. Other repairs that need to be done are the Water Pump seal and exhaust manifolds need to be re-planed. I am also thinking of checking if the block is cracked (still worried about that extra oil that ended up under my hood). Also I did finally get the engine identified as a '68 289 (thanks to the fuel pump), still am not sure if this guy really had it bored out from a 4.8L to a 5.0L like he claims or if its really got 302 cam and headers like he claimed.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:45 AM   #2
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Sounds like ur carb may be flooding going up the hill, might just need to tune the floats. As for the oil, check for a warped head and or a warped valve cover. That may be why the guy used silicone anyway. Next time u replace the gasket make sure all surfaces are completely clean, no oil residue. Use a new gasket and use silicone on top of the gasket. Tighten the valve covers to correct torque. Over torquing will warp the covers.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:56 AM   #3
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They are chrome so are prolly warped, I am prolly ordering new ones next pay day unless something bigger comes up. Any suggestions on how to check if my head is warped? Also how do I know if they are torqued right?
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:19 AM   #4
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U can use a straight edge to see if it is warped. U will need an inch lb torque wrench.


Sequence is important, more important if you're using stamped valve covers instead of Die Cast. You'll want to torque in the following order at 1/3 of the torque spec, followed by a second torque at 2/3 spec and then by the full torque.
Sequence:
1. Torque center 2 bolts
2. Torque opposite corners
3. Retorque center 2 bolts
4. Torque first set of opposite corners
5. Torque second set of opposite corners
6. Repeat steps 3 thru 5.
7. Increase torque after steps 1 - 6.
This may be an over kill to some, but you'll be amazed at how loose the first bolts are after torquing down the outer bolts. Even Die Castings will bend and warp, so the torquing down sequence is needed to make the valve covers conform to the flat head surface as well as avoid crushing the gasket.

Or just use a nut driver.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:25 AM   #5
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Well crap my mechanic is fired he used a pair of vice grips to put my valve cover bolts back on as the previous owner never gave me the special tool those after market bolts he used need.
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Old 09-01-2013, 03:34 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by renouji View Post
Well crap my mechanic is fired he used a pair of vice grips to put my valve cover bolts back on as the previous owner never gave me the special tool those after market bolts he used need.
Ah gotcha, u should get some new bolts with ur new covers then. Much less of a headache not having to use vice grips haha.
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:03 AM   #7
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Rofl planned on new bolts anyways and a new oil breather also. And now a torque wrench holy crap Rofl.
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:12 AM   #8
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Also I plan on trying to do this myself so should I use rubber or cork gaskets? And how do I know what my torque spec is? And I'm guessing that the torque wrench won't let me torque past what it's set too? Sorry for all the questions.
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:44 AM   #9
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Also every inch lb torque wrench I look up gives a range like "1/4 inch torque wrench 20-200 in. Lb." got a link or suggestion to exactly what I need?
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Old 09-01-2013, 12:58 PM   #10
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Seems like alot of people like cork, i like rubber better. Cork will dry out if you dont run the car often and oil doesn't get to the gasket. Rubber doesnt have to be replaced everytime u open ur covers.
Torque spec is 45"lbs to 60"lbs.
try to find a torque wrench or even a torque driver where thats about the middle of its range, for the most accurate torque.

---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

Ask as many questions as you want! Im more than happy to help with whatever you need. I love seeing a mustang II on the road too!
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:18 PM   #11
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Well I went out to check the radiator this morning after someone suggested I might have a bad header seal and while I was looking at the engine I notice a LOT of oil build up around the base of the dip stick tube and after cleaning it off found a bad grommet ... its situated right under all that oil splatter so I guess I found my oil leak
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:25 PM   #12
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Nice!
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Old 09-01-2013, 01:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by irishn8 View Post
Seems like alot of people like cork, i like rubber better. Cork will dry out if you dont run the car often and oil doesn't get to the gasket. Rubber doesnt have to be replaced everytime u open ur covers.
Torque spec is 45"lbs to 60"lbs.
try to find a torque wrench or even a torque driver where thats about the middle of its range, for the most accurate torque.

---------- Post added at 10:58 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

Ask as many questions as you want! Im more than happy to help with whatever you need. I love seeing a mustang II on the road too!
I hope those torque specs are inch pounds and not foot pounds.
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Old 09-01-2013, 02:11 PM   #14
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Yea I am assuming he meant inch pounds since thats the torque wrench he said to get in the first place.

Once this is fixed and assuming it really is the cause of my oil splatter next step is to get my engine mounts replaced before Wednesday which is when I bring her to Premier Performance for my complete tune-up.
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:06 PM   #15
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You don't have to replace cork each time. Use gasket sealant between the valve cover and cork, then apply a thin layer of bearing grease to the head side of the cork. No leaks and removable with no problems.
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Old 09-02-2013, 12:38 AM   #16
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Oil leak gone however I am still losing power on the hills and flat surfaces, I'm not completely convinced that it is caused by the bad carb adjustment & timing.
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Old 09-02-2013, 02:07 AM   #17
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Ya sounds like the floats to me. U can go to an auto parts store and get a carb rebuild kit, theres a nice youtube video where a guy walks you through it. Thats how i rebuilt my first carb. Watch the video first so you know what tools and cleaners you'll need. Its really not hard and i highly recommend you do it. In the process you will make the right adjustments to your floats and change out float valves.
Its sounds like when you go up a hill, all the fuel flows to the back of the bowl, starving your engine of fuel. The the floats are set correctly, you will have more fuel in the bowl so it can all rush to the back. Know what i mean? Just how steep is this hill? Is your transmission kicking down the the right gear? What tranni do u have? When u loose power is it sudden and a bit of huffing and puffing or just seem like not enough horses?
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Old 09-02-2013, 11:27 AM   #18
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Seems like not enough horses, hard to explain whats going on ... the hills aren't terribly steep just long when I down shift the engine sounds wrong like shes whining step on the gas and she whines more but I get no power. It doesn't happen everytime. I have a 5 speed that supposedly came out of a 1962 sunbeam alpine.
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Old 09-02-2013, 10:31 PM   #19
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While im not an expert by any means with carbs as my 66 isn't done yet, Could it be worn clutch? Had issues with my 07 doing freeway driving uphill and straight drives. I downshifted and it revved like crazy and dint catch at all before I had the clutch and flywheel replaced.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:09 AM   #20
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It's sounds like a clutch issue. Is it not slipping at all? In a flat highway is your 0 to 60 seem normal and passing?
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:24 AM   #21
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I haven't brought her beyond street yet, 45 tops because of the hesitation. The clutch is supposedly brand new so I haven't checked that yet but I haven't noticed any slipping its definitely feels and sounds mechanical to me, however I have been considering the flywheel. On the plus side today on my way to work as I was going up the last hill before work everything just ran like she was brand new until I got to the top of the hill. I will see what happens Wednesday morning after the tuneup, I told them I need the idle speed set, adjust the fuel/air mixture, carburetor balance, spark plug & distributor point gaps, and ignition timing.
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Old 09-03-2013, 02:22 AM   #22
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Ya lack of power and hesitation would be from timing and or distro points and other tune up stuff but the wining does seem like the clutch. It may be all of the above too. How long since it ran often before now? I mean did it sit for a while a d maybe only started now and then before u got it?
Anyway, hope ur tuneup goes well.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:16 AM   #23
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3 years sitting, started from what I gathered maybe twice during that whole time. She doesn't act up in reverse, when shifting or braking. just during acceleration and cruising I hear and feel hesitation, backfires occasionally after shifting up and the power loss uphill even even if I don't have to downshift. One last odd thing tho is she will stall when I make a left hand turn and I'm not giving her gas, whether the clutch is in or not, odd because she doesn't have power steering and it doesn't happen at any other time.
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Old 09-03-2013, 03:46 AM   #24
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I have to agree with whoever mentioned the float out of spec. I'd have the carb rebuilt before I spent money elsewhere. Could also have a base gasket leak on the carb.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:08 AM   #25
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Now its definitely sounding like the carb floats and/or valves. Rebuild it
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Old 09-03-2013, 08:22 AM   #26
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Now it sounds like floats. Mine died whenever going over speed bumps. One float was horribly bent. Adjusted them and rebuilt, problem solved.

But you need to get the basics corrected in order to really diagnose some of this stuff. Sounds like you're getting your timing, plugs etc taken care of. It's been sitting around a long time, it definitely needs a carb rebuild. Should replace all your vacuum lines and hoses too.
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Old 09-03-2013, 12:14 PM   #27
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I already replaced vacuum lines & plugs, had the carb jets cleaned and replaced all my hoses and some of my sending units before I even registered her
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Old 09-03-2013, 01:03 PM   #28
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Do you guys think that a 600cfm carb is too large for a 289? Remember I have been told but have not proven yet that the block was rebored to be a 5.0 and the cam switched out for a 302.
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Old 09-03-2013, 07:01 PM   #29
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600 cfm is fine. Did you adjust the fuel bowl floats? What kind of secondaries does you carb have?
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Old 09-04-2013, 01:32 AM   #30
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.098 primaries and .095 secondaries. I have to cancel the tuneup for tomorrow because of money, I have the cash for that or for gas till next paycheck but not both x.x
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Old 09-04-2013, 09:19 AM   #31
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I'm gonna agree on the floats. Bad a problem wit the carb flooding the engine on my 85 and it was cause the floats stuck open. After sitting for so long the pins the float moved on became corroded and it got stuck wherever it felt like. Imagine using a 1/4 tank of fuel in 15 miles.
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Old 09-04-2013, 11:50 AM   #32
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Yea I'm refilling her every 2 days and I'm only driving her 12-22 miles a day. I am trying to get that rebuild kit today.
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:35 PM   #33
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Found out today that the housing for my instrument cluster is deteriorating ... maybe I should have left it alone?
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Old 09-04-2013, 06:45 PM   #34
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Lol ya pretend its porcelain. You'll find epoxy a good friend if you ever have to deal with those old fragile plastics.
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Old 09-04-2013, 10:12 PM   #35
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Lol thanks! found out today that my vacuum advance on my MSD distributor was broken, we fixed it today and now I get no more hesitation (or stuttering whatever you want to call it) or power loss on the hills xD. not running cherry yet but 1 step closer.
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