My 68 coupe is at home on hold - Mustang Evolution

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Old 09-23-2013, 07:26 AM   #1
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My 68 coupe is at home on hold

well I was going to start my complete restomod this winter and decided to put it on hold until spring. Here is my reasons let me know what you think.

My 13 Shelby would have to be in a storage unit $130 a month or my garage
I don't have all the parts to redo the chassis and suspension I could use the $130 a month to buy the parts.

I plan on upgrading to Disk brakes
I plan on adding AC
I plan on redoing the entire rear end bearings and all
I plan on doing the entire front end bushing and bearings
I need and entire interior frames are good cloth and carpet all need replacing.
I am going to use a rotisserie to do the bottom (I figure it would be better in the driveway then in the garage) anybody done this yet?
I figure I could buy all these part in advance so when I got started I could finish it to a rolling chassis and start the little bit of body work it needs.


The engine will be the last thing I do, I already have plans to upgrade it for a little more pony power(-;

My car is stock with around 54,000 miles on it so I figure most of the parts will still be in spec so I should be OK just buying stock replacement parts.

I am planning on buying most of the parts in advance then start on it and take it to finish with out stopping in the middle to wait on?

So what do you think good idea or bad idea?
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:02 AM   #2
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Although I have yet to restore my car, this seems reasonable. Having as many parts on hand as possible before digging into a project is the way to go in my mind. There will almost always be things you discover along the way, but the number of surprises should be fewer, and saving $ on the storage will be nice too.

Evan
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:08 AM   #3
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Do yourself a favor and replace the entire wiring harness with a new one. Chasing electrical problems sux. You also get the benefit of a modern fuse box capable of all the extra modern accessories.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:24 AM   #4
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Thanks I figured the more parts on hand the better and faster it will go. As for a wiring harness I will have to start looking into them. I don't want any cutting and splicing I want clean long runs.
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:39 AM   #5
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Thanks I figured the more parts on hand the better and faster it will go. As for a wiring harness I will have to start looking into them. I don't want any cutting and splicing I want clean long runs.
Painless sells complete harnesses with a modern fuse panel. It's not piecemeal.

---------- Post added at 08:39 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:35 AM ----------

Also replace all the brake lines. The fittings are different for the drum vs disc. It's a pain trying to get adaptors for the master cylinder and calipers. I've been through this. Also the old fittings don't turn easily and can twist off.
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Old 09-23-2013, 08:51 AM   #6
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Some other things to consider, in mustang monthly July of this year they listed some of the more popular restomods such as tilting steering wheel, power steering, front power disc brakes and digital instrument cluster, as in the gauges are digitally operated not digitally displayed for better accuracy and a nice look when lit up at night. Also have you looked at the classic looking stereos on cjponyparts with modern hardware in them? I know their a bit expensive at $270-430.
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Old 09-23-2013, 09:01 AM   #7
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Some other things to consider, in mustang monthly July of this year they listed some of the more popular restomods such as tilting steering wheel, power steering, front power disc brakes and digital instrument cluster, as in the gauges are digitally operated not digitally displayed for better accuracy and a nice look when lit up at night. Also have you looked at the classic looking stereos on cjponyparts with modern hardware in them? I know their a bit expensive at $270-430.
Thanks It has PS already I figured the PB as for a tilt wheel I will have to see how bad my steering column is before I replace it. The digital gages sound good also I will look into them. I just see the cost of this going up and up
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-24-2013, 04:52 PM   #8
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Well i have fully restored my 68 and the on thing i regret is not doing the paint work first. Its not Impossible but its a pain to tape off everything. I also replaced all the bushings front to back and painted the under side. It would have been easier to do with a rotisserie stand but its not needed unless you have one already or can get a hell of a deal on one id skip it and use the money for parts. And for buying all the parts that can be dangerous because if it doesn't fit correctly or is the wrong parts you might go past the return policy.

---------- Post added at 02:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:49 PM ----------

Also i put one of the painless wiring harness in my car and if you plan on doing this i would suggest you do the after taking the car apart
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Old 09-24-2013, 09:19 PM   #9
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I don't know Travis. I decided to buy parts, work on it and save paint for last. Although mine looks good from 10 feet away, I would have (and did) some damage to the paint while working on it over the last 3 years. A rotisserie would have been nice but it would be about the same $ to strip the car down and pay to have the whole body soda or sand blasted clean and start from there. New paint is nice but safety, reliability, dependability, and ride quality are important. Not to mention i couldnt wait to drive it again Just my thoughts. Good luck on the 68.
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Old 09-24-2013, 11:03 PM   #10
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I guess it depends on your build if you just want to get it on the road then no need to do paint work but if you want to go have a show car id paint it as soon as your done with any fab work
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:18 AM   #11
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I guess it depends on your build if you just want to get it on the road then no need to do paint work but if you want to go have a show car id paint it as soon as your done with any fab work
Then you would have to be careful as **** putting it together.
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:30 AM   #12
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Yes that is true but its better that way tho. That way you get the paint everywhere you need it dont have to worry about over spray onto nice new parts
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:08 AM   #13
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So here goes my idea. I will buy a used rotisserie from craigslist they have them all the time around here. Then when I am done with it it goes back on the list. As for the painting I plan on doing all the underside painting, bushing, bearings etc, and get it back on a rolling chassis before I paint it. I will pull the entire interior out and paint everything floor ceiling inside doors (with lizardskin) etc. When I am done with that I hit the firewall, inside wheel wells, inside fenders, and trunk. I will then put on the fenders and hood with out any glass or engine in it and paint the outside. Once that is done I will do the engine and tranny work that needs to be done then install them. The parts are the piece the gets me as was stated if I buy them and they don't fit I am stuck with them. I have to figure that piece out before to long. I am betting stock parts will work because it only has 54 or 55000 mile on it and has never been touched. Thanks for the ideas keep them coming if you see a flaw in my plan slap me straight
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Old 09-25-2013, 11:13 AM   #14
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Seems like a good plan to me!
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:01 PM   #15
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Seems like a good plan to me!
For my simple mind it seems like it will work Is that what you had in mind about painting it first?
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:28 PM   #16
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Yeah that was my thoughts. If i could do mine ofer again thats how i would do mine. If you plan on painting your dash you do all the painting at once
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:31 PM   #17
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Yeah that was my thoughts. If i could do mine ofer again thats how i would do mine. If you plan on painting your dash you do all the painting at once
Yup the dash is getting painted and all the chrome buffed to a pretty shine.
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:35 PM   #18
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Yup the dash is getting painted and all the chrome buffed to a pretty shine.
I just re read your plan sounds like you got the covered already only other thing is are you planing on taking the car down to bare metal before painting ?
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Old 09-25-2013, 12:54 PM   #19
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I just re read your plan sounds like you got the covered already only other thing is are you planing on taking the car down to bare metal before painting ?
I plan on it. I have a media blaster to shoot walnut shells at it. Inside and out the bottom will be hit with regular sand. My neighbors will love me when I do it in the driveway(-; Maybe not
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1968 Coupe <53000 miles on her 289 came off the line Jan 21st 1968. I bought it in 1983

2013 Shelby GT500 Born 12/06/2012 number 439 of 530 in DIB and 1 of 9 with Red Stripes over the top and on the seats
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Old 09-25-2013, 01:36 PM   #20
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Sounds like a plan. I highly recommend the LizardSkin. I sprayed 2 coats each of the sound barrier and heat barrier from the firewall to the rear bumper inside and underneath and I'm glad I did. Since I put new full length floor pans in, I first coated them and everything else with POR 15 once i had good clean metal to prevent future rust. Make sure you have a adaquate air compressor. Again, good luck with your build.
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