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Old 11-27-2013, 11:43 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by travisb.young66 View Post
It also helps the air/fuel mix ex: if you get two four barrels theoretically you have one barrel per cylinder also you are spreading where the carbs are so you dont run into running lean on your front and rear cylinders and rich on the middle cylinders
So this is the way to go then?
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:47 PM   #72
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So this is the way to go then?
Ehhh idk if you really are going to aim for performance then yeah but if you just want a weekend warrior then a single will be fine
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Old 11-27-2013, 11:52 PM   #73
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Dude. Built it over a few years and do it right the first time.
But if u wanna get rid of ur stock parts I could use them to add to my collection of parts in my room.
I wanna turn old parts into cool wall mounted parts.
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:51 AM   #74
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I remembered this article from a while back you might find enlightening. This is part2, I'm sure you could search for part 1 if you were interested. Might give you more info on the duel carb question and help you decide if it's worth it.

http://www.mustangandfords.com/techa...rouble_part_2/
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:57 AM   #75
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I remembered this article from a while back you might find enlightening. This is part2, I'm sure you could search for part 1 if you were interested. Might give you more info on the duel carb question and help you decide if it's worth it. http://www.mustangandfords.com/techa...rouble_part_2/
Good read!
Only problem is they're talking about SBF an not big blocks :p
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Old 11-28-2013, 10:17 AM   #76
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Good read! Only problem is they're talking about SBF an not big blocks :p
True, but many concepts will carry over like setting it up and tuning. Hope it at least gives you more info to think about.
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:31 PM   #77
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So...
Used a blower in the garage.. And a ton of dust got in the cylinder walls...
How should I clean that?
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:38 PM   #78
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I know I know... Stupid move...
But at least I didn't try to wash it off with a hose XD
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #79
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Id use seafoam spray and suck it out with a shop vac.
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Old 11-28-2013, 01:44 PM   #80
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Id use seafoam spray and suck it out with a shop vac.
Would on blaster work?
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:04 PM   #81
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I dont know what that is. If its for cleaning metal then It probably wont let it rust. Or if it evaporates then u could spray something like wd40 just to keep it oiled so it wont rust. Really though, if u just suck out as much as u can so there's just fine dust particles left, it wont hurt the engine as long as u change the oil after running it for a bit.
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:16 PM   #82
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I dont know what that is. If its for cleaning metal then It probably wont let it rust. Or if it evaporates then u could spray something like wd40 just to keep it oiled so it wont rust. Really though, if u just suck out as much as u can so there's just fine dust particles left, it wont hurt the engine as long as u change the oil after running it for a bit.
It's all fine dust particles.
But there's so much of it :p

I fixing to pull the rotating assembly (probably tomorrow)
Can I just run if down with something?
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Old 11-28-2013, 02:21 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by irishn8 View Post
I dont know what that is. If its for cleaning metal then It probably wont let it rust. Or if it evaporates then u could spray something like wd40 just to keep it oiled so it wont rust. Really though, if u just suck out as much as u can so there's just fine dust particles left, it wont hurt the engine as long as u change the oil after running it for a bit.
It's all fine dust particles.
But there's so much of it :p

I fixing to pull the rotating assembly (probably tomorrow)
Can I just run if down with something?
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:01 PM   #84
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Down with something? Like a cold?
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Old 11-28-2013, 03:28 PM   #85
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Down with something? Like a cold?
Run it down with purple power or some other degreaser? In the cylinder walls.
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:03 PM   #86
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No not a degreaser, u want oil in the cylinders

---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:02 PM ----------

Well if ur taking it all apart completely then ya u can degrease it, then rub on some engine oil when ur done.
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Old 11-28-2013, 05:13 PM   #87
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No not a degreaser, u want oil in the cylinders ---------- Post added at 03:03 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:02 PM ---------- Well if ur taking it all apart completely then ya u can degrease it, then rub on some engine oil when ur done.
So rub it down with motor oil?
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:33 PM   #88
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Use brake parts cleaner to clean it up and hog wash wd40 on the walls
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Old 11-28-2013, 06:59 PM   #89
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If you are getting machine work done to the block then i wouldnt worry about it
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Old 11-28-2013, 07:20 PM   #90
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If you are getting machine work done to the block then i wouldnt worry about it
Works for me!!!
So as far as pulling the cam..
I have to remove the harmonic balancer first...
And I need a special tool for that.
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Old 11-28-2013, 08:39 PM   #91
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Works for me!!! So as far as pulling the cam.. I have to remove the harmonic balancer first... And I need a special tool for that.
I think you mean the crank? Haha then yes you need a pulley puller you can rent them from autozone
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:22 PM   #92
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I think you mean the crank? Haha then yes you need a pulley puller you can rent them from autozone
No I literally mean the cam :p
I don't have a guide yet. (Gonna get one for reassembly)
And I have absolutely no idea how to remove the cam.
Anyone have any good links?
Also.
As I approach the end of this.. All I will be doing now is cleaning.
I have my turbo for the 227 to pay off, and another ticket.
Just wanna say thank you to all who have helped so far!
It'll probably be aprilish time before I start with machine work..
I'm gonna deep clean everything else with purple power..
Should I cover the block in motor oil and put it in a bag? Or wd-40?
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Old 11-28-2013, 11:31 PM   #93
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I think you mean the crank? Haha then yes you need a pulley puller you can rent them from autozone
It just hit me!
Don't you have to pull the balancer off in order to get the timing chain cover off? Or is that thing still considered part of the water pump?
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Old 11-29-2013, 01:09 AM   #94
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Ummm post a pic? But i think usually i think you have to take it off to get the cam out usually
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Old 11-29-2013, 02:14 AM   #95
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Timing cover must come off to expose the chain and allow for removing the chain, then the cam. It's worth getting cam handles to keep from banging or scratching the bearings or the cam.
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Old 11-29-2013, 03:17 AM   #96
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Ya when u go to store it, any kind of oil will work and covering it in a bag is a good idea.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:10 AM   #97
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Lubriplate Assembly White Lithium Grease works great for "long term" storage, wont just run off over time like oil.
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:21 AM   #98
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Lubriplate Assembly White Lithium Grease works great for "long term" storage, wont just run off over time like oil.
thanks for the tip!!!!
How should I go about cleaning everything?
Purple power and a wife brush?
Wouldn't a wire brush scratch everything badly?
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Old 11-29-2013, 12:35 PM   #99
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Its fine, you'll want to paint ur engine after ur done getting it machined anyway.
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Old 11-29-2013, 06:25 PM   #100
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thanks for the tip!!!!
How should I go about cleaning everything?
Purple power and a wife brush?
Wouldn't a wire brush scratch everything badly?
You can use softer bristle brushes like aluminum and brass. Strong enough to cut into heavy grease and oil as well as clean pores of the cast iron. Purple power works well, the GUNK original engine degreaser/cleaner works very well also. For any other gasket surfaces use a scotch brite green scrubby pad or something of the nature. You can also grab a nice sized sanding block and lightly block sand the blocks deck face as well as the heads combustion face. Spray with brake cleaner to clean up after sanding. Grab some round wire brush long reach style with the metal rod in them, you can clean water jackets and oil galleys with those. Again use brake clean to clean up. If you want to check for straightness grab yourself a straight edge "no not a typical ruler" like a machinist would use also called parallels. They are precision ground to be 100% true and straight as an arrow. Take the straight edge over the block/heads from multiple locations hold it down onto the surface. Now take feeler blades and see if you can fit any shim stock under your straight edge. Check all the way down that straight edge with the feeler blades to see if there is any runout to it.
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:35 PM   #101
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So...
This thing won't come off... Pulled the harmonic balancer and all the bolts.
Is there something else?
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:36 PM   #102
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You can use softer bristle brushes like aluminum and brass. Strong enough to cut into heavy grease and oil as well as clean pores of the cast iron. Purple power works well, the GUNK original engine degreaser/cleaner works very well also. For any other gasket surfaces use a scotch brite green scrubby pad or something of the nature. You can also grab a nice sized sanding block and lightly block sand the blocks deck face as well as the heads combustion face. Spray with brake cleaner to clean up after sanding. Grab some round wire brush long reach style with the metal rod in them, you can clean water jackets and oil galleys with those. Again use brake clean to clean up. If you want to check for straightness grab yourself a straight edge "no not a typical ruler" like a machinist would use also called parallels. They are precision ground to be 100% true and straight as an arrow. Take the straight edge over the block/heads from multiple locations hold it down onto the surface. Now take feeler blades and see if you can fit any shim stock under your straight edge. Check all the way down that straight edge with the feeler blades to see if there is any runout to it.
Thanks for the advice!!!
Now this yes toon my seem stupid... But on surface that are machined. Like the crank and cam. How would I clean those?
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:37 PM   #103
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So...
This thing won't come off... Pulled the harmonic balancer and all the bolts.
Is there something else?
Flat head and light taps from a hammer haven't done it?
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Old 11-29-2013, 08:43 PM   #104
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Thanks for the advice!!!
Now this yes toon my seem stupid... But on surface that are machined. Like the crank and cam. How would I clean those?
Hit them with brake parts cleaner to rid of all the oil, coat them with that lube I posted earlier or other Assembly type lube. Then wrap them in shrink wrap and zip tip ties if you couldn't seal it tight enough with just the shrink wrap. Keep them on standby till your ready to hit the machine shop and have them polished or keep them wrapped up to sell them if your not planning to reuse.
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Old 11-29-2013, 10:32 PM   #105
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It's just dangling...
How do I remove it?!?!?!?
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