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Old 11-29-2013, 10:36 PM   #106
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It kinda looks like there is still part of you balancer on there.... Can you take a closer pic of the end of the crank ?
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:32 PM   #107
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Originally Posted by travisb.young66 View Post
It kinda looks like there is still part of you balancer on there.... Can you take a closer pic of the end of the crank ?
I figured it out.
I was being a little b**ch, there was some dirt/rust on the snout and it got stuck.
I just pulled harder and it came off
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:32 PM   #108
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Gonna pull the cam tomorrow!!!
I know.. Backwards... Lol
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:43 PM   #109
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I figured it out.
I was being a little b**ch, there was some dirt/rust on the snout and it got stuck.
I just pulled harder and it came off
Pu$$y lol
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Old 11-29-2013, 11:48 PM   #110
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Pu$$y lol
Maybe at first!
But I pulled that son of a gun off XD
almost brought the motor with it!!
Haha not really :p
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Old 12-23-2013, 10:14 AM   #111
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Update!!!!!
I won't be home for a while.
But piston #3 is seriously messed up!!
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Gonna bore it .30 over since I doubt it can be honed..
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Old 12-23-2013, 11:40 AM   #112
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And I have all of the valves soaking in chem dip right now!
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Old 12-29-2013, 08:05 AM   #113
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May be a change of plans... Checking out a 67 coupe today!!
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Old 12-29-2013, 02:24 PM   #114
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Car was junk...
Apparently you can cut out sections of floor pans, stick new ones in, "weld" it with epoxy and say it has new pans....
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Old 12-29-2013, 03:37 PM   #115
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May be a change of plans... Checking out a 67 coupe today!!

Nice

---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:34 PM ----------

Quote:
Originally Posted by alrefire View Post
Car was junk...
Apparently you can cut out sections of floor pans, stick new ones in, "weld" it with epoxy and say it has new pans....

Well putting new floor pans in isnt that hard of a job... If it was a good price
I wouldnt dismiss it so quick
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:14 PM   #116
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Nice

---------- Post added at 01:37 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:34 PM ----------




Well putting new floor pans in isnt that hard of a job... If it was a good price
I wouldnt dismiss it so quick
he was asking 3750, but said he'd go no lower than 3k. tell me what you think.
I could do a better paint job with a rattle can.
rear valence needs to be replaced, there's some rust around passenger wheel well (which is to be expected) Pans have holes in them where rust is poking through.
and I didn't get any pics, but I FaceTimed Whitelightning, and he can agree that the pans weren't good at all. the new pans weren't properly placed at all, it'd require a new driver's rear pan, and passenger side, including the firewall....



1967 Ford Mustang
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:48 PM   #117
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Also have this.
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Old 12-29-2013, 05:56 PM   #118
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Depends on what you want to do. If you want to do all the work yourself, 3k might be a good buy. But if you're farming out the work, probably not. You would pay less buying a more complete car in my opinion.

If you're interested because you want to do the work yourself, I'd say go for it. But if you're interested just because of the price point, I would personally save the cash for a better car. Just my $0.02
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Old 12-29-2013, 06:01 PM   #119
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Depends on what you want to do. If you want to do all the work yourself, 3k might be a good buy. But if you're farming out the work, probably not. You would pay less buying a more complete car in my opinion.

If you're interested because you want to do the work yourself, I'd say go for it. But if you're interested just because of the price point, I would personally save the cash for a better car. Just my $0.02

Idk if this makes sense, but....
I do plan on doing most of the work myself. I'm really mechanically inclined, but I've never welded before.
This car, I guess you could say is a test mule.
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Old 12-29-2013, 10:59 PM   #120
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Idk if this makes sense, but....
I do plan on doing most of the work myself. I'm really mechanically inclined, but I've never welded before.
This car, I guess you could say is a test mule.

I once bought a beat up 88 Ranger 4-banger as a toy to rebuild. Tore the engine apart, got it back up and running and sold it to a neighbor. I didn't make any money but I learned a ton in the process so I get what you're saying.

These old mustangs come apart and go back together pretty easily, so if you're looking for a car to tinker on, this is a good choice. Now whether it's worth the money to tinker on is totally your call. Hope this helps!
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:25 PM   #121
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I once bought a beat up 88 Ranger 4-banger as a toy to rebuild. Tore the engine apart, got it back up and running and sold it to a neighbor. I didn't make any money but I learned a ton in the process so I get what you're saying.

These old mustangs come apart and go back together pretty easily, so if you're looking for a car to tinker on, this is a good choice. Now whether it's worth the money to tinker on is totally your call. Hope this helps!

I think I'm going to pass...
2 main reasons.
1) dad changed his mind, so that cut my fund by half.
2) the cheap floor pans make me question what else was half-assed in the process.
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Old 12-29-2013, 11:41 PM   #122
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On a good note, cleaned my valves.. Soaked em, brushed em once, got most of the gunk off.

I'm gonna let the soak again overnight.
I think I'm going to get everything hot tanked shortly (any ideas how much that costs???) and have the rods separated from pistons, heads magna-fluxed, and block bored (as minimal as possible)
Probably in 2 months. (An early bday gift to myself)
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Old 12-30-2013, 12:23 AM   #123
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On a good note, cleaned my valves.. Soaked em, brushed em once, got most of the gunk off.

I'm gonna let the soak again overnight.
I think I'm going to get everything hot tanked shortly (any ideas how much that costs???) and have the rods separated from pistons, heads magna-fluxed, and block bored (as minimal as possible)
Probably in 2 months. (An early bday gift to myself)


Well at least i was a complete waste of a day
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Old 12-31-2013, 07:52 PM   #124
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Valves are pitted.....
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Dang it...
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Old 12-31-2013, 10:45 PM   #125
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Damn that sucks are all of them like that?
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:10 PM   #126
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Damn that sucks are all of them like that?

I only did one :pClick image for larger version

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I have the heads in my version of a hot bath
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:11 PM   #127
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Quick question,
Can individual valves be replaced?
Or do they have to be replaced as a set?
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:47 PM   #128
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I think you can do one? The machine them if you get the head rebuilt
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:49 PM   #129
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I would replace them all, but that's just me lol
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Old 12-31-2013, 11:50 PM   #130
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Just upgrade them all
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:22 AM   #131
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Baby steps

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Just upgrade them all

Andrew,
At that point id want to replace the heads :p

I don't see a budget rebuild as being an option.
I'm thinking straight to the big build :p
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:49 AM   #132
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Good. If I was building an engine up id take a bit longer and just upgrade everything along the way.
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Old 01-01-2014, 12:50 AM   #133
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Do you want me to take a vid of Matt's 455's sound next time I see it?
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:06 AM   #134
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How did I miss this thread?!?!!??
That valve doesn't look too bad from the photo. The machine shop should be able to clean it up with the grinder. If not, yes, you can just replace one valve.
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Old 01-01-2014, 01:49 AM   #135
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On a good note, cleaned my valves.. Soaked em, brushed em once, got most of the gunk off.

I'm gonna let the soak again overnight.
I think I'm going to get everything hot tanked shortly (any ideas how much that costs???) and have the rods separated from pistons, heads magna-fluxed, and block bored (as minimal as possible)
Probably in 2 months. (An early bday gift to myself)
Machine shop prices vary. Shop around and find someone who has a good reputation, thats more important than price.
Id wait until you have bought the pistons before you have the wrist pins pressed out of the pistons. They'll have to be pressed back into the new pistons anyway.
Its best to take all of the disassembled parts (block, crank, rods and pistons) all at once.
That way the short block can be worked on as a component.
Here's my advice as far as budget goes, take whatever that you think this project will cost and DOUBLE it!
Then you'll be close to the actual cost...
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Old 01-01-2014, 10:11 AM   #136
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Machine shop prices vary. Shop around and find someone who has a good reputation, thats more important than price.

Id wait until you have bought the pistons before you have the wrist pins pressed out of the pistons. They'll have to be pressed back into the new pistons anyway.

Its best to take all of the disassembled parts (block, crank, rods and pistons) all at once.

That way the short block can be worked on as a component.

Here's my advice as far as budget goes, take whatever that you think this project will cost and DOUBLE it!

Then you'll be close to the actual cost...

I originally wanted to do a budget rebuild, saving as much stuff as possible.
But as I'm taking this apart, I'm realizing that pretty much everything is going to have to be replaced..
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:00 PM   #137
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I originally wanted to do a budget rebuild, saving as much stuff as possible.
But as I'm taking this apart, I'm realizing that pretty much everything is going to have to be replaced..

Thats usually how it goes /:
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:03 PM   #138
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Thats usually how it goes /:

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I "hot tanked" half of each head and they came out nicely.
Gonna need a bit more tho.
I also hammered out a dent in one of my valve covers
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:17 PM   #139
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Attachment 143403Attachment 143404Attachment 143405

I "hot tanked" half of each head and they came out nicely.
Gonna need a bit more tho.
I also hammered out a dent in one of my valve covers


Looking good im having a hard time picking between a v8 or putting a turbo on my 6
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Old 01-01-2014, 02:41 PM   #140
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Looking good im having a hard time picking between a v8 or putting a turbo on my 6

I'm turboing my 6, but that's a different story :p
What all is done to your 6?
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