67 289 has sludge under valve covers - Page 3 - Mustang Evolution

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Old 04-06-2014, 10:52 PM   #71
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That sounds like a choke issue (there seems to be a lot if that going around). I'd check to make sure it's opening up properly.

Sorry, I should have refreshed before posting - don't let me distract you from the progress you are making!
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:43 PM   #72
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AWESOME!!!!!

It's going to live!
I suppose that your next step will be to take the intake manifold off...
I'm pretty happy about that! And yeah I suppose so. Maybe on Thursday.
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:46 PM   #73
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I'm pretty happy about that! And yeah I suppose so. Maybe on Thursday.

Before you take you engine apart look up how to make a smoke machine on youtube and see if you actually have a vacuum leak
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:48 PM   #74
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Don't give up. You're on your way out of the ditch. Depending on the intake you dont use the corks strips under the intake between the heads, just a bead of silicone. They are notorious for leaking there. If you can't build up pressure, it'll run hot.
Yeah I was told it's better to run a bead of silicone instead of cork. Is there any special kind I would need? The very odd thing was when I went to release the radiator cap there was pressure still from a few days ago when I last ran it.
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:49 PM   #75
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Sorry, I should have refreshed before posting - don't let me distract you from the progress you are making!
Haha. Not a problem. I do that too from time to time. Any information I get thrown my way is progress! Thanks for the imput.
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Old 04-06-2014, 11:50 PM   #76
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So next step is removing the intake manifold to seal it (most likely with silicone) and how do I go about cleaning up under the valve covers? Or is the amount of sludge under there not a big deal with regular oil changes?

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Old 04-07-2014, 01:56 AM   #77
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I was kind of waiting to hear what the "valley" looks like when you take the intake manifold off, but, unless you take the heads off of the engine, it's going to be a laborious job to clean that "sludge" up.
There will probably be different opinions, but I don't think that it looks that bad and I would probably just leave it in your case.

You have some different options that you need to think about. Your engine seems like it is in good enough shape to have some work put into it to get it running good again. You could just put intake gaskets, fix the carburetor, get the distributor in shape, and you're going to have to do something with the exhaust... that "one open header" thing isn't going to work...
If you do that, I think the chances for a decent running engine are pretty good.
Or, you could go one step further, and take the heads off, put new head gaskets, get the heads cleaned, magnafluxed, vacuum tested, and then put it all back together. The heads, probably, do NOT need a valve job judging from the results of the compression test. This way, you could be certain of the condition of the engine and won't be replacing a blown head gasket in a few months.
I recently replaced all of the gaskets on an extremely high mileage engine in my truck (400k). I took it apart, had the heads checked by a machine shop ( new valve seals is all they needed). I put it back together with all new sensors and it runs like it's ready for another 400k.

Haha.
Just throwing some options out there for you to think about...
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Old 04-07-2014, 07:31 AM   #78
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Great news now the next set of baby steps. Seems like it is time to take the intake off and see what we see. If you are going to pull the heads then you need to get ready before you do. Get a piece of cardboard or a piece of wood and put 8 sets of hole in them for the push rods. I always mark them 1 to 8 so you don't mix them up. Get your camera out and take pictures of everything all together then as you take it apart so you know where stuff goes. I use baggies to hold the bolts for each piece. Mark the baggie as to what they are and take a picture. I would also do as suggested and change the valve seals at this time, this will give you a chance to really clean it up also.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:00 AM   #79
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I was kind of waiting to hear what the "valley" looks like when you take the intake manifold off, but, unless you take the heads off of the engine, it's going to be a laborious job to clean that "sludge" up.
There will probably be different opinions, but I don't think that it looks that bad and I would probably just leave it in your case.

You have some different options that you need to think about. Your engine seems like it is in good enough shape to have some work put into it to get it running good again. You could just put intake gaskets, fix the carburetor, get the distributor in shape, and you're going to have to do something with the exhaust... that "one open header" thing isn't going to work...
If you do that, I think the chances for a decent running engine are pretty good.
Or, you could go one step further, and take the heads off, put new head gaskets, get the heads cleaned, magnafluxed, vacuum tested, and then put it all back together. The heads, probably, do NOT need a valve job judging from the results of the compression test. This way, you could be certain of the condition of the engine and won't be replacing a blown head gasket in a few months.
I recently replaced all of the gaskets on an extremely high mileage engine in my truck (400k). I took it apart, had the heads checked by a machine shop ( new valve seals is all they needed). I put it back together with all new sensors and it runs like it's ready for another 400k.

Haha.
Just throwing some options out there for you to think about...
I definitely plan on taking off the intake and replacing the gasket/ cleaning anything that needs to be cleaned. I unfortunately don't know much about 4 barrels and how to hook it up. Hopefully that can be fixed properly soon. And the distributor definitely should probably be upgraded. What is the best thing to go with? Electronic ignition?

I am afraid to pull the heads as it is honestly a little above my knowledge at this point. However, I think that's a good idea to do all those things listed. My restoration should pick up speed soon I think and all of this will become much easier for me to accomplish.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:02 AM   #80
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Great news now the next set of baby steps. Seems like it is time to take the intake off and see what we see. If you are going to pull the heads then you need to get ready before you do. Get a piece of cardboard or a piece of wood and put 8 sets of hole in them for the push rods. I always mark them 1 to 8 so you don't mix them up. Get your camera out and take pictures of everything all together then as you take it apart so you know where stuff goes. I use baggies to hold the bolts for each piece. Mark the baggie as to what they are and take a picture. I would also do as suggested and change the valve seals at this time, this will give you a chance to really clean it up also.
I will pull the carb and intake off and try to get both working properly.

As mentioned before silicone is probably the best thing to use? And should I use a high heat or something? As for the cab I will probably be posting pictures of it for assistance as i am not great with carbs in general.
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Old 04-07-2014, 11:55 AM   #81
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And the exhaust will probably be taken care of as soon as the car is driveable so I can get it to a trustworthy exhaust shop. Hopefully by that time I will know what i want on it and they can help me out. I really love the sound of long tubed and an H pipe. However I am very torn between borla, flowmaster and magnaflow. Although that is for another thread down the road I think.

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Old 04-07-2014, 12:19 PM   #82
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Put the crank on TDC for number 1 and mark the rotor location on the distributor, then mark the distributor shaft location relative to the block. Do this before removing the distributor and then don't move the crank. You don't want to have go through the whole process from scratch if you don't have to.

Electronic is the way to go, MSD makes some good kits and provide an adjustable rev limiter. Some kits are made for the 1 wire alternators ( a good upgrade anyway).
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Old 04-07-2014, 03:44 PM   #83
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Put the crank on TDC for number 1 and mark the rotor location on the distributor, then mark the distributor shaft location relative to the block. Do this before removing the distributor and then don't move the crank. You don't want to have go through the whole process from scratch if you don't have to.

Electronic is the way to go, MSD makes some good kits and provide an adjustable rev limiter. Some kits are made for the 1 wire alternators ( a good upgrade anyway).
What are the instructions above for exaxtly, sorry I am confused.

Thanks, I'll check out some of the different products they offer for ignition.
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Old 04-07-2014, 04:44 PM   #84
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What are the instructions above for exaxtly, sorry I am confused.

Thanks, I'll check out some of the different products they offer for ignition.
Before you pull the distributor make sure the engine is at TDC and mark the distributor shaft. Makes it easier to put back in correctly and have the timing almost correct.
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Old 04-07-2014, 05:41 PM   #85
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Oh! Gotcha. I will do that. Thanks

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Old 04-08-2014, 11:20 PM   #86
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Just as an update I purchased an intake gasket kit and a small amount of silicone to put on each side of the gasket to ensure a good seal. Not quite wire when that will be put on. Then soon after that I believe an electronic ignition will be on its way. Should I go with the Petronix Ignitor III a good one to go with or should I stick to the base one. The engine Is mildly built.

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