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Old 09-30-2014, 03:09 AM   #71
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Looks like it may have had a trailer hitch at one time. Lights for a trailer are usually sliced into the tail lights. You could use a test light and turn on a blinker and see if one flashes.
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:18 AM   #72
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Trailer hitch is a fascinating one. I'll test that theory today!
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Old 09-30-2014, 04:26 AM   #73
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I think for the moment I'm holding off on the taillight harness. Doesn't make sense to me to replace just the rear now, and the rest later, so I'll just be careful with it while I'm doing the trunk area.

One other question, it looks like ford used seam sealer and undercoating in the trunk. I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator undercoat on the underside and it was more like textured paint. Any suggestions on what to use?
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Old 09-30-2014, 10:59 AM   #74
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Evan's 67 Project

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I think for the moment I'm holding off on the taillight harness. Doesn't make sense to me to replace just the rear now, and the rest later, so I'll just be careful with it while I'm doing the trunk area.

One other question, it looks like ford used seam sealer and undercoating in the trunk. I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator undercoat on the underside and it was more like textured paint. Any suggestions on what to use?

I used truck bed liner on mine you can put on thick too and it'll help absorb some noise although it has that textured paint look too, if you a rust proofer and want a smooth finish then id get pro15 that stuff dries like glass just a warning do not get it on anything that you don't want it including hands and use a cheap non foam paint brush to apply it. That stuff is like supper glue haha
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:01 PM   #75
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Okay, I've been holding out on you guys. I have been busy the past few weeks, and made the decision to really dig into my car - not things that can be undone in a couple evenings. So I have obtained a small mig welder, and got up to snuff on my mig by making a cart for it (I've TIG welded in the past).
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I stripped the interior and trunk and have started to go to town on the 67 with a wire wheel to figure out just how much needs to be worked. I've begun gathering some I the parts I already know will need work.

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Interesting what you can find.
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The trunk area is in surprisingly good shape.
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Roof...not so much
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Most of the metal on the floors is okay, but the installation is crap. This shows light coming through a 1/2" gap...
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And the new metal hanging out in the trunk.
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So next is a lot of love with the wire wheel, adding braces an figuring out what to cut (eek!). If you have gotten this far in the post and have any tips for bracing her, I'm all ears! It looks like the roof, back seat support, taillight panel (maybe), rear framerails, front framerails, torque boxes and floors will all need to be addressed - obviously not at the same time. But any advice you can provide on keeping her together while I perform surgery and order of operations is very welcome! Thanks!
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Old 11-03-2014, 10:10 PM   #76
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Ha well tbh iv replaced floor pans battery tray rear aprons quarter panel the panel behind the re glass and the upper and lower cowl and haven't braced anything and haven't had a problem with it flexing on me.

On a side note if you don't mind me asking how much was that bottle of gas? And what kind of gas is it? I bought a welder about a year ago and i still need to get a bottle for it


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Old 11-04-2014, 08:21 AM   #77
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It's looking awesome. Fixing the bones will pay off huge later on. Modern rust proofing and protectors make these repairs last forever. What model Lincoln is that?


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Old 11-06-2014, 09:04 PM   #78
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So the welder is a Lincoln K2185 Handy Mig. Just a simple 120v unit, but it tackled the 1/8" with good penetration, and I was running it pretty regularly. It only really has 4 voltage settings, which is a bummer, but for my purposes is just fine. I did learn the hard way that my 15 A circuit can't take more than a few seconds on high. I tripped the breaker leaving me in pitch black in the middle of my garage with welding gear on : ) But that was me testing it out, at the highest it would burn right through sheet metal. If I ever want to do anything heavier than 1/8" I'd consider seeing if a 20 A breaker is safe.

For the gas, I did a little shopping around and all out the door I was a little over 200, but I did get some wire, so I'm not sure how it all broke down. If I felt like driving there was a slightly cheaper place, but I settled for convenience. I had to purchase the bottle, and fill ups are $55 I think. The next size down was half as big and fill ups were $50, and the next size up didn't make sense since I won't be doing that much welding.

I went with 75% argon/25% CO2 ( often called just C-25). I read that it's very common and good for all around mig work. I probably could have saved some cash if I found a craigslist bottle, but I was impatient. If you go that route, you have to look at the date stamp, I've heard places won't fill or exchange the bottle if it's expired (10 yrs I think) or damaged.Click image for larger version

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Old 11-07-2014, 03:02 PM   #79
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I use innersheild wire, no gas needed but my welder is a 135 lincoln, little more powerful. That's a nice setup though, good job on the cart!
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Old 11-07-2014, 03:55 PM   #80
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So the welder is a Lincoln K2185 Handy Mig. Just a simple 120v unit, but it tackled the 1/8" with good penetration, and I was running it pretty regularly. It only really has 4 voltage settings, which is a bummer, but for my purposes is just fine. I did learn the hard way that my 15 A circuit can't take more than a few seconds on high. I tripped the breaker leaving me in pitch black in the middle of my garage with welding gear on : ) But that was me testing it out, at the highest it would burn right through sheet metal. If I ever want to do anything heavier than 1/8" I'd consider seeing if a 20 A breaker is safe.

For the gas, I did a little shopping around and all out the door I was a little over 200, but I did get some wire, so I'm not sure how it all broke down. If I felt like driving there was a slightly cheaper place, but I settled for convenience. I had to purchase the bottle, and fill ups are $55 I think. The next size down was half as big and fill ups were $50, and the next size up didn't make sense since I won't be doing that much welding.

I went with 75% argon/25% CO2 ( often called just C-25). I read that it's very common and good for all around mig work. I probably could have saved some cash if I found a craigslist bottle, but I was impatient. If you go that route, you have to look at the date stamp, I've heard places won't fill or exchange the bottle if it's expired (10 yrs I think) or damaged.Attachment 169328
Thanks for the details. It's helpful, I really only need it for car stuff.


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Old 11-08-2014, 06:46 PM   #81
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Thanks! The cart was the perfect project to get familiar with the welder, plus it's useful. I've tried the self-shielding wire, an it works, but I'm not a fan of the extra spatter and smoke. If you do switch over, don't forget your polarity and drive wheels will need to change. Took me a while to figure out why the wire feed was all crappy.

I'm glad to share anything i know. I'm new to mig welding, so what I know isn't that much. I'd check out two YouTube channels:
ChuckE2009
WeldingTipsAndTricks

Both have some pretty good videos for beginners on mig that helped me out a lot!
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Old 11-14-2014, 08:34 PM   #82
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Got a little time tonight, so I got going on the fender. My goal was to finish the panel, but my wire wheel was too worn down, so I cleaned it and gave it a dusting of primer. I'll wrap up the rest hopefully this weekend. Only a couple questionable spots so far - keep your fingers crossed as I get farther along! Click image for larger version

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Old 11-14-2014, 10:17 PM   #83
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I remember those days notttt the funnest work but def one of the most rewarding!! Are you going to do the body work?


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Old 11-15-2014, 12:56 AM   #84
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Undecided on exactly how far I'll take it and what I leave to professionals. I'll tackle the metal, but I've heard shops have issue painting over somebody else's body work. I'm thinking I might get it essentially down to a shell in primer and send it out for paint and body, then do all the reassembly.

Timeline and budget could change a little (a lot) once I figure out my engine situation too. But that's at the front I the car, I'm still all the way at the back : )
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Old 11-15-2014, 01:50 AM   #85
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Yeah I actually had that card pulled on me. They were suppose to strip it and and repaint it but never did and had to re do all there work


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Old 12-01-2014, 07:29 AM   #86
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Not much to show, but I learned a valuable lesson. The car is on 4 jack stands - two under the front floor supports, two under the rear framerails. I've stripped out the interior, removed the gas tank, deck lid, front and rear glass, carpet, seats, etc. It turns out all that stuff was heavy....and the engine is also heavy. I went to drop the rear suspension, supporting the diff with a floor jack and removing the rear shackles first (BTW this is the same setup as when I dropped the diff in the past). When I got the second one off, the *** end of the car started rising up - the car was essentially teetering on the front jack stands! I nearly crapped my pants, grabbed the tail end to keep the car from tipping too far forwards, and threw a toolbox and cv axle from my dd in the trunk to hold it down while I reattached the suspension.

If it had kept tipping, it probably would have knocked over or slid off the front stands, and the forward momentum surely would have sent it into/through the shut garage door. Lesson learned.
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Old 12-01-2014, 12:57 PM   #87
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Ha i deff would have crapped my pants!!


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Old 12-14-2014, 09:42 PM   #88
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So yesterday I decided to start in on the driver floor, just to see how far I'd have to take it. Best case, I'd burn in the new floor and move on. Worst case...well you know.

So the good news is that the floor support seems solid. A little interior surface rust - still undecided on if it stays or not. The concern right now is how far up the firewall my issues go. It's looking like the torque box could use some love (not to mention there isn't one on the passenger side - ha!). I'm just hoping I don't need a new firewall, because of course that would mean removing the whole front end.

So in my explorations, where should I go next? If I do need new framerails or firewall, it obviously doesn't make sense to hold off on them. I'm about 95% sure the cowl has to go, so should I bite the bullet and pull the engine now and start from the front? Not sure the most efficient way to proceed from here.

Forgive my mess, I had to move all my cords back inside the car - and I know it looks close, but the fuel line was well out of the way and protected before I started hacking away : )Click image for larger version

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Old 12-14-2014, 10:00 PM   #89
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The sell the lower part of the fire wall like parts thats bent so as long as the rust doesn't go past the bend you should be fine to just put floors and not have to take everything out. Im actually planing on redoing my floors with a whole one pice floor. Replacing the floor was one of my first experiences with cutting out rust and patch panels.... Iv gotten a lot better sense then haha


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Old 12-15-2014, 02:25 PM   #90
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Looking good man. Love these types of projects. It's amazing what you can learn by tearing into these old beauties.

Am I reading that tape measure right though?!?! That's a lot of bondo!!!


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Old 12-15-2014, 07:06 PM   #91
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The sell the lower part of the fire wall like parts thats bent so as long as the rust doesn't go past the bend you should be fine to just put floors and not have to take everything out. Im actually planing on redoing my floors with a whole one pice floor. Replacing the floor was one of my first experiences with cutting out rust and patch panels.... Iv gotten a lot better sense then haha


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Thanks, I definitely need to tear into it more to see just how bad it is before I know about the firewall. I think the next step is to remove the fender and torque box, that should give me a good view at what's there. Keep your fingers crossed for minimal firewall rust!

Hey, when the cowl comes out, do you know how much firewall access that gives you?
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:08 PM   #92
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Looking good man. Love these types of projects. It's amazing what you can learn by tearing into these old beauties.

Am I reading that tape measure right though?!?! That's a lot of bondo!!!


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Yeah at some point someone slapped a ton of bondo and some cheap paint on it - probably for a quick sale. So far that's the thickest I've found - just about 3/8 inch. She deserves better than that!
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:13 PM   #93
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Thanks, I definitely need to tear into it more to see just how bad it is before I know about the firewall. I think the next step is to remove the fender and torque box, that should give me a good view at what's there. Keep your fingers crossed for minimal firewall rust!

Hey, when the cowl comes out, do you know how much firewall access that gives you?

Complete ha well depends theres and upper and lower cowl. The upper doesn't give you any but the lower will give you full access depending on the amount you cut out


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Old 12-15-2014, 07:18 PM   #94
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Complete ha well depends theres and upper and lower cowl. The upper doesn't give you any but the lower will give you full access depending on the amount you cut out


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Since I'm fairly certain the whole cowl needs replacing, maybe the right play is to remove the torque box and then if the firewall needs more attention, do the cowl and firewall together. I'll hopefully have some time after the holiday...bummer, I'd love to have time sooner!
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Old 12-15-2014, 07:23 PM   #95
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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


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Old 12-15-2014, 09:28 PM   #96
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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Ha, bracing for sure. It all depends on how things look when I get in there. And the engine has to come out before too much metal is removed. It's coming out anyway, and I don't want all that weight in there if I'm cutting out structural metal.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:36 PM   #97
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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Ha, bracing for sure. It all depends on how things look when I get in there. And the engine has to come out before too much metal is removed. It's coming out anyway, and I don't want all that weight in there if I'm cutting out structural metal.
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Old 12-15-2014, 09:56 PM   #98
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If I'm not mistaken, if you go with convertible floors, they have a torque box on the passenger side also.


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Old 12-15-2014, 09:58 PM   #99
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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


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Old 12-15-2014, 10:02 PM   #100
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If I'm not mistaken, if you go with convertible floors, they have a torque box on the passenger side also.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.

Yeah verts have a pass side one. Do you know if the floor is different, or if I can just add a passenger side torque box? I haven't looked into it that much yet.

Thanks!
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Old 12-15-2014, 10:24 PM   #101
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I think it's an easy deal. I've heard people putting very floors when doing a full floor replacement. I know the sill plates are different.


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Old 12-16-2014, 06:41 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
I think it's an easy deal. I've heard people putting very floors when doing a full floor replacement. I know the sill plates are different.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.

True, I remember verts have an inner rocker as well, but I'm thinking that shouldn't matter for the TB. I'll certainly spend some time with the shop manual before I hack away! Thanks'
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Old 12-20-2014, 04:45 PM   #103
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Quick update: I snuck in a couple hours in the garage before visiting with the in laws. Got the fender off and scraped away some of the undercoating. There seems less rusty areas than initially though, but the cowl for sure will need addressing. I need some time wire wheeling to tell the whole story, but first impressions aren't bad...

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Old 01-09-2015, 10:01 PM   #104
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Okay, I have realized that once I start down the torque box path, might as well to the firewall and cowl at the same time. So while I gather parts for that, I started in on the rear seat brace.

I braced the car just in case and got the old one cut out, and got a really good look in there:
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The rusty parts are the upper insides of the quarters. Not looking too good. Funny that's it's just the upper parts though. My guess is that the rear window leaked, causing the rust in the seat brace that spread to the quarters.

So my question, how do I tell if they're too far gone? Things looked and felt good from the outside when I stripped the paint. And I can wire wheel from the inside, but is there a good way to tell if the metal has gotten too thin once all the rust is cleaned off?

I might be needing new quarters

Thanks, and let me know your thoughts!
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Old 01-10-2015, 10:26 AM   #105
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I forget who makes it but there is a rust converting chemical that turns rust into a rust resistant film, those don't look too bad at all. It's from condensation gathering on the unpainted metal surfaces for 45+ years
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