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Old 07-29-2014, 12:36 AM   #36
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68 coupe price?

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Starter solenoid to headlights

Should get 12v from solenoid at headlight switch, then through firewall to voltage reg mounted inside engine bay behind driver headlight, then to headlights and taillights. That voltage regulator goes out. I might have a 67 diagram. Should be same for that. What's it doing?


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Old 07-29-2014, 06:17 AM   #37
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There must have been a short somewhere, some of the wires going from the solenoid to the front of the car are melted, bad ground maybe, but I want to make sure everytging was where it was supposed to be so this doesnt happen again after I rewire it all. I'll post a pic
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Old 07-29-2014, 06:21 AM   #38
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At least you can see what I'm talking about
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:04 PM   #39
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Soooo a bit of another problem, theres a small pinhole in the fuel tank and its dripping gas. ......how should I go about fixing this?
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:09 PM   #40
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Soooo a bit of another problem, theres a small pinhole in the fuel tank and its dripping gas. ......how should I go about fixing this?

Well you can empty the tank put a little jb weld over it or take it out have it welded up or buy a new one
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Old 07-29-2014, 08:30 PM   #41
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Well im a welder by trade but welding on a fuel tank scares the **** out of me, I was thinking jb weld but ive never worked with it before, think it will hold up?
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Old 07-29-2014, 09:54 PM   #42
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Well im a welder by trade but welding on a fuel tank scares the **** out of me, I was thinking jb weld but ive never worked with it before, think it will hold up?

Ha yeah i dont think i would want to weld a gas tank either and i think it would hold up okay not a forever fix tho
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Old 07-29-2014, 10:34 PM   #43
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Get a new one, there's probably pin holes on the top too. New ones with new sending units are only a little over $100. I think Johns Mustang or Dallas Mustang had them on sale for $89 yesterday.


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Old 07-30-2014, 12:00 AM   #44
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Get a new one, there's probably pin holes on the top too. New ones with new sending units are only a little over $100. I think Johns Mustang or Dallas Mustang had them on sale for $89 yesterday.


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Damn really?
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:18 AM   #45
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I think tank and sender is closer to $160. But the tank only was on sale. It's a pretty easy swap, I had to do it on my sons 67.


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Old 07-30-2014, 01:20 AM   #46
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I think tank and sender is closer to $160. But the tank only was on sale. It's a pretty easy swap, I had to do it on my sons 67.


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Ohh i thought you meant tank and sender haha i was going to say i think i spent 35 on just the sender!
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Old 07-30-2014, 01:30 AM   #47
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Yeah sorry I wasn't more clear.


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Old 07-30-2014, 06:01 AM   #48
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Yea, you're right that's not something I want to risk, I think ill just order a new one.
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Old 08-01-2014, 11:00 PM   #49
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Sorry to jump In here, I'd go with a new tank. I had a strong fuel smell in my car whenever I filled the tank but it looked clean and there wasn't never any leaks. I ended up replacing it and when I looked into the old one the seam between the upper and lower half was rusted out. I think I paid less than $150 for a new tank and install kit from cj's


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Old 08-02-2014, 08:55 AM   #50
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You're not jumping in any advice is appreciated! I went ahead and ordered the new tank and sending unit, $120. Not a bad price to pay for peace of mind! Should be in next week. Do I need to prime the fuel lines in any way after installing the new one?
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Old 08-02-2014, 09:13 AM   #51
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I honestly didn't even think about that. I had no problems


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Old 08-02-2014, 09:17 AM   #52
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Ok cool, I guess it will just work its way through.
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Old 08-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #53
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Just make sure you crimp off the soft line before you disconnect it. I got a face full of gas when I forgot to.


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Old 08-02-2014, 10:53 AM   #54
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Yea I figured id have to cap the line somehow, ill be sure to clamp it. Thanks for the warning!
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:10 AM   #55
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A vice grip with a towel in the jaws worked for me


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Old 08-02-2014, 11:37 AM   #56
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I replaced the tank to pump fuel line and later the pump to carb line. I did not prime. Just be sure you have a good charge in your battery because you might be cranking for a while while the fuel gets to the carb.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:38 AM   #57
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I replaced the tank to pump fuel line and later the pump to carb line. I did not prime. Just be sure you have a good charge in your battery because you might be cranking for a while while the fuel gets to the carb.

Might not be an issue for you if there is still gas in the lines.
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Old 08-02-2014, 01:45 PM   #58
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Cool, its a brand new battery.
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Old 08-02-2014, 11:11 PM   #59
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They sell oversized 22 gallon fuel tanks for 67-68. That might have been a better choice. I wish I had done that when I got a new one


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Old 08-05-2014, 09:16 AM   #60
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Alright, fuel tank is in, everything hooked up, brand new battery. The car cranked three times very slowly like the battery was dead. Turned off tried again, same thing. The ground off the battery was super hot to the touch as well as the ground from the starter solenoid to the starter. Is this a grounding issue or the signs of a bad starter?
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:33 AM   #61
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Alright, fuel tank is in, everything hooked up, brand new battery. The car cranked three times very slowly like the battery was dead. Turned off tried again, same thing. The ground off the battery was super hot to the touch as well as the ground from the starter solenoid to the starter. Is this a grounding issue or the signs of a bad starter?
There should not be a ground coming off the starter relay, it grounds to the firewall and the starter grounds to the block. The cable from the starter relay to the starter should not be touching any ground anywhere. Double check your wiring. Also you could have a bad cell in your battery, have it tested at a shop.


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Old 08-05-2014, 11:23 AM   #62
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There is only one wire from the solenoid to the starter, I thought it was a ground but I guess not? The battery negative is grounded to the block and both of these wires are getting super hot.....
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:20 PM   #63
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You should have a ground going to the block but there should + wiring going to the solenoid and one from the solenoid to the starter

---------- Post added at 11:20 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:20 AM ----------

And if it is getter really hot you can put a bigger wire in
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Old 08-05-2014, 01:34 PM   #64
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Alright well thats wired correctly than, im not sure what gauge they are, it does seem a little small for battery terminal hookups, what gauge is reccomended?
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Old 08-05-2014, 10:29 PM   #65
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The wires should about the same size as normal battery cables.


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Old 08-09-2014, 08:13 AM   #66
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Stupid question but what grade of fuel should I run in this thing? Also should I use a lead additive?
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Old 08-09-2014, 03:07 PM   #67
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Stupid question but what grade of fuel should I run in this thing? Also should I use a lead additive?

You don't need led
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Old 08-09-2014, 04:05 PM   #68
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I run 93 just because I've been having trouble with my distributor. It all depends on the compression ratio/ timing if it's a stock motor you can run 83 but is recommend 87 just to be safe


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Old 08-09-2014, 06:48 PM   #69
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Im thinking I need 93, after putting in the new tank, starter and solenoid I put a few gallons of 87 in it and it starts great but its running really rough, also it wants to stall when I put it in drive. Gonna clean the carb a put some 93 in and see how she acts
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Old 08-09-2014, 06:56 PM   #70
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May be a good idea to replace cap and rotor depending on how long its been sitting and depending if your area is humid or not
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