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Old 12-06-2014, 01:12 AM   #1
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New cam and parts

Sooooo I'm looking at a cam and I'm wondering if its "needed" to replace the lifters. My head has be completely redone and all mew springs and I'm looking at a comp cam from summit and they have three different ones. One has new springs, lifters, timing chain and gears. The other is just the cam, lifters, and timing gear and chain. And last is just the cam. The first kit is like 250 second choice is 200 and the cam by itself is 133. So my question is are the lifters really that important? Im either just going to get the hole kit or just the cam. The only reason I'm thinking just the cam is because the rest of the engine is pretty much in need of a rebuild machine wise and if I play my Cards right i could get away with not taking my head off which will be a greatly appreciated thing. Anyways to make this long post shot. Do I need new lifters or can i just slap the cam in and call it a day? Its a I6 btw.


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Old 12-06-2014, 03:03 AM   #2
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For that much money I would just do it all at once, give yourself some piece of mind

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Old 12-06-2014, 06:17 AM   #3
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Ask yourself a few questions

When were they replaced last?
Do you want to do this job again because you didn't replace the part this time?
Can you afford to do it now?

I am of firm belief that if I am in an engine I replace any of the parts that I can while I am there. That way I don't have to open it up again for that reason.

If they only have a few thousand miles on them then I would not replace them. If you don't know how many miles then I would replace them.

I would also do the push rods at the same time if you don't know when they were replaced last.
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Old 12-06-2014, 08:14 AM   #4
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I'd get new springs too, if they don't match the cam profile it could end badly, the extra $100 is worth the peace of mind
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Old 12-06-2014, 01:18 PM   #5
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New cam and parts

All good points. The springs are only a few pounds difference and were replaced a little over a thousand mikes ago. And i kinda an on a budget im going to swap a v8 in in the relatively new future so im not really trying to put a lot of money into this engine


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Old 12-07-2014, 08:59 AM   #6
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If you don't replace the lifters, you run the risk of wiping or the lives on your new cam. From everything I've ever heard, you should never replace the cam but not the lifters.

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---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------

"Wiping out the lobes"

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Old 12-07-2014, 08:18 PM   #7
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Yeah i think im going to just get the whole kit


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Old 12-08-2014, 08:06 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matcox83 View Post
If you don't replace the lifters, you run the risk of wiping or the lives on your new cam. From everything I've ever heard, you should never replace the cam but not the lifters.

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---------- Post added at 09:59 AM ---------- Previous post was at 09:59 AM ----------

"Wiping out the lobes"

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+1
It's like replacing brake pads without turning the rotors. Your should start new.
While you're in the cam, make sure your heads have screw in rocker studs and not pressed in. It'll save you later from having that done.


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Old 12-08-2014, 01:58 PM   #9
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which one do you guys thing would be better? my car has manual steering and power brakes. I already have a vacuum canister.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...view/make/ford

The only thing i can really tell is the difference between the to is the power band. One is 500-4500 and the other is 1000-5000 which do you think is better power band? My car never is really under 1000 when Im driving and i haven't gotten it up to 5k while driving

and the rocker arms are bolts already
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Old 12-08-2014, 04:40 PM   #10
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Get the power in as soon as you can. The six might not even get to 5k!

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Old 12-08-2014, 04:44 PM   #11
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Here's what I'm running but I have a 2V with a late model head that has big valves and some porting work. Also have the dual out header.
http://classicinlines.com/proddetail...CSC-264-HDP-10

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Old 12-08-2014, 08:11 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by matcox83 View Post
Get the power in as soon as you can. The six might not even get to 5k!

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Good point haha. If i were to get one for a 2v would it be okay to run the carb i have for now? Until i can raise the funds for that swap


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Old 12-09-2014, 06:03 AM   #13
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Get in touch with Mike at Classic Inlines. He can let you know. If you plan to do the V8, I don't know if you can justify the extra expense on the six though

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Old 12-10-2014, 12:02 AM   #14
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Yeah ill probably just get the one form summit. I bought head studs tonight and new pushrods. Should i put new cam bearings in too? Or should i be fine without them


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Old 12-10-2014, 05:53 AM   #15
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I've never heard that you have to replace the bearings unless you have indication that they're bad. Did you replace them the first time you built the engine? I believe it is something best left to a machine shop unless you somehow have the right tools

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Old 12-10-2014, 06:57 AM   #16
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New cam and parts

I didnt replace them because i was leaving the cam and everything i figured they all wear to together . I have access to the tools Ill just see what the look like and replace if necessary


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Old 12-12-2014, 02:42 AM   #17
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Im starting to think I'm not going to feel much of a difference in the cam i was looking at. Im looking at either this one Click image for larger version

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ID:	171631 and here are the base line specs for the car Click image for larger version

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I can see the difference in the specs and kind of understand them. I still want to be able to cruise but with more power. The only problem with the 112* one is the power band goes pretty high and I'm normally driving anywhere from 1500-4500 and i like that the comp cam kit comes with all the rights springs and everything. Also everything engine wise is stock except for the exhaust. I think i just talked myself into the comp cam one haha. But any other impute is appreciated!


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Old 12-12-2014, 10:47 PM   #18
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New cam and parts

Cams can be a great mod, but the wrong one that doesn't match the engine components can be a disaster.
My advice is to call Edelbrock, Comp Cams, Crane and tell your engine specs and get cam recommendations. Then make your choice.


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Old 12-14-2014, 09:12 PM   #19
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Well I got my head studs but no push rods in the mail and i just ordered lifters, cam bearings and a gasket kit from summit. Im going to go with a 264/264-112* hyd cam and 302 valve springs from classic Inlines. Cant wait to get it all and out it in!


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Old 12-14-2014, 09:31 PM   #20
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I hate when you only get half of what you need!
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Old 12-14-2014, 09:54 PM   #21
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I know I opened the box and looked through all the paper as if I couldn't feel 12 push rods haha!


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Old 12-16-2014, 02:14 PM   #22
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Well a little annoyed still haven't heard back from classicinlines about the missing parts. Iv email and called the 7 times and they all went to their full voice mail good thing I payed through pay pal. If I don't here back from them by tomorrow after noon I'm just going to open a claim with pay pal. Which sucks because I was going to buy my cam and new valve springs from them but now I'm not so sure.

On the other hand should have my cam bearings and gasket kit today and lifters Friday. Just need the cam haha


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Old 12-16-2014, 05:48 PM   #23
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Well they got back to me. Apparently they "sent me an email" saying they are on back order and should be in stock in a few days


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Old 01-01-2015, 10:27 PM   #24
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Well got everything but the push rods. They are. Chrome moly are those really needed? I can get some from a local parts store and have them in a hour should I cancel the order?

Other news, my coil too a crap. The part that connects to the wire got all corroded and rusted within a year so i ordered DSII from classic inlines


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Old 01-01-2015, 11:12 PM   #25
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You've got to wait for a coil, might as well wait for the push rods.


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Old 01-01-2015, 11:22 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
You've got to wait for a coil, might as well wait for the push rods.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.

Good point


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Old 01-14-2015, 05:29 PM   #27
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Well haven't updated this is a while but any way iv pulled my motor to make life a little easier
Click image for larger version

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And made some tools


For installing the bearings its just a threaded rod with washers and a pvc cap with some tape around it to center the bearings Click image for larger version

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And a small (I think too small but my printer can print this big) degree wheel I Used auto cad to make it then just put it between some plexiglass and mdf Click image for larger version

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Now I'm trying figure out how to degree the cam. But cant really figure it out. Well Kinda. So I assume I start off at TDC with the the dots lined up. And then find true TDC by using a piston stop. Then set wheel to zero. After that I'm lost haha. Im suppose to measure lift but don't really know what to do with the numbers. My old auto teacher has open shop tomorrow night and I'm going to see if I can drop by and have him help me. And iv watched hundreds of videos on YouTube about how to degree cam but does anyone know an easier way of doing this?


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Old 01-14-2015, 08:38 PM   #28
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Also did a lil hand porting and polishing. Still need to clean up a few areas Click image for larger version

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Old 01-15-2015, 12:28 PM   #29
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I had mine done but the process doesn't seem difficult, just tedious. Here's a link from Classic Inlines that describes it in good detail, two different techniques. I don't think it's supposed to be "easy" though!
http://www.classicinlines.com/CamDegree.asp

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Old 01-16-2015, 12:08 AM   #30
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I never realized how I was suppose to ****** or advance my cam.. I thought I was just going to have to more the chain and gears. So if i read that article right i need the eccentric bushings? Sense the cam had a dowel pin? I guess ill give classicinlines a call tomorrow


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Old 01-16-2015, 06:58 AM   #31
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If you get the double roller timing chain you can use the sprocket to index. Otherwise, I think you use an offset keyway. If you get a clay smith cam you have to advance. Many others are ground with the advance built in and you install straight up

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Old 01-16-2015, 10:22 PM   #32
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Well I ordered the double roller chain hope to have it by Tuesday/ Wednesday and then I can go to auto on Thursday and my old auto teacher will help me degree my cam. Man i cant wait to get my car back!!


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Old 01-17-2015, 02:11 PM   #33
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Sounds great. You'll be able to feel the difference.

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Old 01-26-2015, 11:43 PM   #34
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Well iv got her almost back to getter my torque wrench was acting up so i ordered a new one so i can get my head torqued down correctly. Other than that it should be good to go! Just finished up a fresh coat of paint Click image for larger version

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Old 01-27-2015, 05:40 AM   #35
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Nice!
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