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Old 03-09-2015, 09:35 PM   #106
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If you intend to slam the car I think the trans am racing wheels would look great on the car...
Attachment 177076


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I would like to drive down the street in that!


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Old 03-09-2015, 09:38 PM   #107
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It isn't street legal...


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Old 03-09-2015, 10:37 PM   #108
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Quote:
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It isn't street legal...


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I'm sure if they will give this guy tags for this I think I could tag that!Click image for larger version

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Old 03-09-2015, 10:41 PM   #109
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You'll have to change things on the mustang to make it legal. Only an idiot would do it. I'm aware of cars like in your picture a friend of my dad has a hand built 1300lb car with a 260hp Mazda 4 cylinder. Plus he has the only fox I want, if you saw it you would say it isn't a fox though...


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Old 03-09-2015, 10:44 PM   #110
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I like those trans am wheels. I am going to give the Mustang a tuneup tomorrow.
I'll post some pics.
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Old 03-09-2015, 10:46 PM   #111
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Originally Posted by The Great Recon View Post
You'll have to change things on the mustang to make it legal. Only an idiot would do it. I'm aware of cars like in your picture a friend of my dad has a hand built 1300lb car with a 260hp Mazda 4 cylinder. Plus he has the only fox I want, if you saw it you would say it isn't a fox though...


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I'll just put historic tags on it....no problem


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Old 03-09-2015, 10:59 PM   #112
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The car was for sale 5 years ago for 1.1 million...


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Old 03-09-2015, 11:05 PM   #113
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Wonder how much it would cost to get a car custom wrapped? I could have mine wrapped with race graphics just to drive down the street and freak people out...


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Old 03-09-2015, 11:13 PM   #114
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Maybe like this...
Then again it's an uglyass Lamborghini...
I was quoted a grand for a 14 gt500...

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Old 03-10-2015, 10:58 PM   #115
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I didn't do as much as I wanted to today. I cleaned the carb and topped off the fluids. I put some tranny conditioner and cleaner in. I also decreased the engine again.
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Old 03-10-2015, 11:33 PM   #116
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I didn't do as much as I wanted to today.

Story of my life. Was it an external carb clean, or did you do any internal parts?
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Old 03-11-2015, 02:12 AM   #117
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It was all external. It is running rich. I need to read how to adjust it.
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Old 03-11-2015, 03:50 PM   #118
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Progress is better than egress. ..if I did as much as I want I'd have to quit work, not a bad sounding idea except wouldn't have much $$ to put into my Stang LOL

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Old 03-11-2015, 06:40 PM   #119
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Progress is better than egress. ..if I did as much as I want I'd have to quit work, not a bad sounding idea except wouldn't have much $$ to put into my Stang LOL
If I did as much as I want, I'd be retired and sitting on some fat lottery winnings...LOL.
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Old 03-11-2015, 06:44 PM   #120
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1969 Mustang

At least I got the chrome polished, back window cleaned, body wiped down, interior wiped down, and new license plates on.
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Old 03-13-2015, 09:41 AM   #121
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Best oil weight for a 351 Windsor?
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Old 03-13-2015, 11:50 AM   #122
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One thing at a time, I had the same overwhelming feeling when if picked up my 67FB. Borderline depression. But now I can't believe what I've done with it and especially what's in store for it in the future....


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Old 03-15-2015, 11:01 AM   #123
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I got the B pillar for the drivers side. Click image for larger version

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Damaged B pillar.
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New one.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:19 AM   #124
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You replacing it or having someone else?

I have learned to keep as much original metal as possible. If you go to replace the whole panel, then you have to worry about everything fitting back again correctly, an every stamping is a little different. So if you can, I'd try to only replace what you have to. An exception to this would be a large panel where there isn't a convenient seam or bend in it.
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Old 03-15-2015, 11:54 AM   #125
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You replacing it or having someone else?

I have learned to keep as much original metal as possible. If you go to replace the whole panel, then you have to worry about everything fitting back again correctly, an every stamping is a little different. So if you can, I'd try to only replace what you have to. An exception to this would be a large panel where there isn't a convenient seam or bend in it.
Like a quarter panel that I may have to replace..I'm kinda dreading that! I may be able to get away with just the wheel well flare, gotta dig all the bondo out first to see if I can work the dent out that someone covered up.

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Old 03-15-2015, 11:55 AM   #126
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Like a quarter panel that I may have to replace..I'm kinda dreading that! I may be able to get away with just the wheel well flare, gotta dig all the bondo out first to see if I can work the dent out that someone covered up.

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Old 03-15-2015, 12:15 PM   #127
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You replacing it or having someone else?

I have learned to keep as much original metal as possible. If you go to replace the whole panel, then you have to worry about everything fitting back again correctly, an every stamping is a little different. So if you can, I'd try to only replace what you have to. An exception to this would be a large panel where there isn't a convenient seam or bend in it.

In going to have somebody do it for me. I was told by Andy at Andy's classic mustangs that it is not salvageable and I have to replace the b pillar and the rear quarter panel. Click image for larger version

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It has a lot of Bondo on the rear quarter panel.
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Old 03-15-2015, 02:49 PM   #128
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In going to have somebody do it for me. I was told by Andy at Andy's classic mustangs that it is not salvageable and I have to replace the b pillar and the rear quarter panel. Attachment 177470
It has a lot of Bondo on the rear quarter panel.

I'll concur with Andy on that one get as much Bondo out of the car as you can.


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Old 03-15-2015, 04:52 PM   #129
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My guess is that there is a done of bondo wherever the dark red/maroon paint is. How are the floors/torque boxes?


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Old 03-15-2015, 05:30 PM   #130
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It's not too bad. There is more Bondo then needed to have a smooth transition. It magnet picks up metal everywhere. The rocket panel needs to be replaced. The rest of the body is salvageable. Besides the b pilar and rear quarter panel.
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Old 03-17-2015, 09:45 PM   #131
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I'm putting rust neutralizer on my car. Does anybody have experience with any similar products?
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Old 03-17-2015, 10:08 PM   #132
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As long as it has a zinc compound in it it should work. Zinc slows/stops the rusting/oxidation process. It's basically the loss of electrons in the metal's molecular structure, boring science stuff. I needed to know about this for my profession, so I paid attention in science class...
I worked at a body shop for a while, and we used allmetal, it's a metal body filler, very good stuff, instead of that other crap...

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Old 03-17-2015, 11:19 PM   #133
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As long as it has a zinc compound in it it should work. Zinc slows/stops the rusting/oxidation process. It's basically the loss of electrons in the metal's molecular structure, boring science stuff. I needed to know about this for my profession, so I paid attention in science class...
I worked at a body shop for a while, and we used allmetal, it's a metal body filler, very good stuff, instead of that other crap...

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Thanks for the info. I will check it and see what I have. I may need to get all metal.
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Old 03-17-2015, 11:21 PM   #134
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I am finding some bubbling in the paint in the trunk. Does that indicate rust? I found out the seal on the trunk lid is leaking. I will have to replace it when I repaint it. It won't see rain or water for that matter anytime soon.
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:17 AM   #135
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From what you describe, I'm guessing it's rust...only way to be sure would be to remove the bubbling paint and inspect the metal. If it's just surface rust, then some rust converter or POR-15 after a good scrub and de-grease should do the trick.

Regarding POR-15, their documentation advises against using it on top of a rust converter product. I'm guessing the greater (microsocopic) surface area of a rusty (but non-flaking) piece of metal is the key?
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Old 03-18-2015, 01:19 AM   #136
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Pro-15 is some good stuff. Just don't get it on anything you don't want it on i got it on my hands... It was there for a week and a half
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Old 03-18-2015, 04:23 AM   #137
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I'm putting rust neutralizer on my car. Does anybody have experience with any similar products?

Last week I treated the supports under the roof with Eastwood's rust converter. I tried both the aerosol and the qt of liquid.

The aerosol only worked if the rust was wire wheeled. In the hard to reach spots, if I couldn't reach to brush away first, it really did nothing. But worked great if it was brushed already.

I brushed on the liquid, which worked like a charm regardless of wire brushing. I'm getting an empty spray bottle to put the liquid into to spray it in the tough un reachable spots. If I did it again, I'd save my coin on the aerosol.

The end result was incredibly tough. I took my wire wheel to the weld point, and had to switch to a flap disc to remove the converted surface rust. After it's all cured, I hit it with Rust Encapsulator, bared the weld spots and hit them with weld-thru primer. Very pleased with the result.

Before:
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After rust converter:
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Painted and primed:
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Old 03-18-2015, 02:27 PM   #138
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That's some good info. Thanks for the advise and your car looks awesome. I'm just starting to fix the rust spots on mine. It's not too bad mostly the trunk.
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Old 03-18-2015, 08:37 PM   #139
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This is what I've used, has worked pretty good so far. Definitely don't want it on your skin or paint that you wanna keep..
Below are some before and after trunk hinges I treated..

Stang Life....
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Old 03-22-2015, 06:11 PM   #140
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Saw this over the weekend thought you might appreciate! Click image for larger version

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