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Old 02-25-2015, 03:03 PM   #1
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1969 Mustang

Hey everybody. I bought a new Stang and now I have to find some money to work on it. lol
I just wanted to official introduce myself. I am Johnny and I am 32 years old. I am married with 3 daughters and one on the way. I bought my project car to learn how to work on cars. It is my dream car and I want to share my experience with all of you and probably ask a ton of questions. I have already participated in a few topics and have chatted with some awesome people in here. Click image for larger version

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My other car is a 69 Mustang!
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:07 PM   #2
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The trunk was really wet and has mold in it. I pulled the carpet out and it was made of a felt material glued to cardboard boxes. There is plywood under the carpet and I am not sure if there is anything between that and the gas tank. It seamed odd to me. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-25-2015, 03:11 PM   #3
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Here are some more pics of the cardboard box trunk carpet and my trunk (showing the wood).


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Old 02-25-2015, 03:15 PM   #4
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In my Impala's restoration I found a block of wood as part of the frame...
There was a rust hole in a section of my challengers floor pan; and they welded in a replacement but the idiots didn't cut the old one out...
It isn't unusual to see these cars being halfassed in every way. Such ashame...
Bring her back to her former glory...


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Old 02-25-2015, 03:17 PM   #5
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I didn't expect to find the trunk wet and moldy. Carpet is out and the trunk is drying.

I need to figure out why it was so wet.
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Old 02-25-2015, 03:19 PM   #6
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There's a leak somewhere or there's a hole somewhere that's letting moister in. Our cars are really bad about rear end rot. Hopefully your car isn't a bondo whore like my Impala was...


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Old 02-25-2015, 03:47 PM   #7
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Beautiful car and welcome to the forum. I'm looking forward to seeing it progress.

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Old 02-25-2015, 06:07 PM   #8
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The drivers side rear quarter panel is my biggest issue on body work. I check it with a magnet and it held everywhere except in one spot in the read quarter.

I'm going to replace that part. Hopeful that is it. I checked it and it looked fine inside the trunk. Except the wood bottom. The weather strip looks good too. I will have to inspect it closer and see if replacing the quarter panel will do the trick.

Thanks.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:10 PM   #9
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Double check the weather striping with a garden hose, it could possibly be that it isn't sealing properly, when the trunk is closed...
Good luck with the restoration, I'll help anyway I can...

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Old 02-25-2015, 06:16 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Great Recon View Post
Double check the weather striping with a garden hose, it could possibly be that it isn't sealing properly, when the trunk is closed...
Good luck with the restoration, I'll help anyway I can...

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Thank you. I appreciate your help. I will do that and I will throw this cardboard carpet away.
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Old 02-25-2015, 06:43 PM   #11
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Welcome, she is beautiful! If you're replacing a quarter already, I'd take a wire wheel to the areas all around that panel to see what you're dealing with. Since you're in there already, might as well see what you're dealing with. Last weekend I found a rust hole that someone "fixed" by just globbing filler into it. Since I already had the roof off and was access, the fix should be fairly easy.

Good luck and keep us posted!
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Old 02-25-2015, 07:19 PM   #12
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Thanks for the help. I know they put a lot of Bondo in it. It doesn't line up quite right and you can see it. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-25-2015, 07:34 PM   #13
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Whoever did that needs to get shot about 100 times with a tank...


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Old 02-25-2015, 09:00 PM   #14
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If there is only a damaged section is just replace that area. And you can also check it the rear window seal too


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Old 02-25-2015, 10:01 PM   #15
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Congrats on finding such a nice car! How does she drive?
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:17 PM   #16
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The Great Recon -- I agree the person who did the body work did a horrible job. It look bad and does not line up.

Young -- I am going to replace the B pillar and the rear quarter panel. I also have concerns about the rear window seal.

tym -- Thank you. I had to jump through some hoops. But, she was well worth it and at an awesome price. She drives pretty good. But, the engine needs to be rebuilt. I want to replace the tranny with a C4 and the steering is a bit loose.
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Old 02-25-2015, 11:30 PM   #17
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I'm not ranting on your car. But this is what I meant when I said they halfass classics. My cars were the same way, piss poor body workmanship. It gets irritating seeing them in this state...




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Old 02-26-2015, 12:23 AM   #18
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I whole heartedly agree with you. Classics should be treated way better. I am glad I have a chance to restore it.
I can't believe they really didn't do anything to the motor. It looks like the 351w was put in there and they didn't touch it for years. I was told it was put in in the 80s. I am not sure how to tell the year or where the engine originally came from. Any advice?
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Old 02-26-2015, 12:30 AM   #19
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There should be some production numbers on the block normally around the exhaust manifolds...
I know for a fact it's a Windsor, but maybe tyoung or Scotty knows exactly were it is. Both of my cars production numbers are around the exhaust manifolds. Then again ford might have put them in a different place.

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Old 02-26-2015, 01:29 AM   #20
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I have to confess I am overwhelmed. For my project car...where is the best place to start? Im not sure where to begin on a classic car.
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:32 AM   #21
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It be hard to know exactly what year I don't think there's any real way to tell unless you look the the accessories like fuel pump but that won't give you an exact year/model


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Old 02-26-2015, 01:32 AM   #22
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I would strip it down and focus on the body and frame get all of that right even if it takes years...that's a real nice car you have there and if done right will be something. I wouldn't mind having it! lol


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Old 02-26-2015, 01:34 AM   #23
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I have to confess I am overwhelmed. For my project car...where is the best place to start? Im not sure where to begin on a classic car.

It depends on you short/long term goals. If you want to drive it now then focus on brakes and suspension the start working on the body. You can a dented up car, but not one without brakes. So what are you short/long term goals?


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Old 02-26-2015, 01:35 AM   #24
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My cars I went through the drivetrain, brakes, suspension first, then body, prep and paint, and interior, includes wiring, last...


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Old 02-26-2015, 01:42 AM   #25
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That is all good advice, thank you. I want to keep this car forever and keep it in my family. I will not use it as a daily driver. More like a show car or a drive every once in a while car. I want to work on the drivetrain first. But, then again I want the body work done so it is weather proof. It is in my garage so it is pretty safe for now.
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Old 02-26-2015, 01:50 AM   #26
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That is all good advice, thank you. I want to keep this car forever and keep it in my family. I will not use it as a daily driver. More like a show car or a drive every once in a while car. I want to work on the drivetrain first. But, then again I want the body work done so it is weather proof. It is in my garage so it is pretty safe for now.
It's all got to get done so pick a spot and go to it! lol nice thing about that car you have is if you spend your money wisely you will get it back. I have seen people pay good money for nicely done 69's even if it's not a numbers matching car. When I sold my 1968 Firebird I ended getting more than I had in it.



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Old 02-26-2015, 03:27 AM   #27
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Well then I'd do the following

Strip the car

Test fit any body mods/suspension parts and if you plan on lowering the car or put bigger/wider tires now would the appropriate time to measure and make sure you won't have to cut freshly painted parts

Paint

Wire/interior/glass

Suspension and brakes

Then drive train

I'd do it in that order for a couple reasons for starters When painting taping off things is a ***** and annoying and almost guarantee you'll get over spray on something that you don't want it on. Then the other reason I'd do paint so early is to minimize the times of taking things apart and same with wiring I re-wired my car after it was all together and basically had to strip the whole car again. Again with the minimizing the dismantling. Then after is suspension/ drive train doesn't really matter the order of those too just depends on your ability to move the car around with the suspension haha and painting the car with it completely bare will allow to get paint everywhere. But that's just my personal experience with mine!


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Old 02-26-2015, 04:05 AM   #28
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Welcome to the site, and welcome to the hobby of auto restoration. My guess is that some folks tried their hand in restoring this Mustang, and got overwelmed with it, did a half backed job, and finally gave up. Many fall in love with a project car, try to resurect it, but loose interest quickly, especially when they find out the cost of doing it properly. Bondo is great for about a 1/4 inch dent, or to smooth out a small area, but anything greater than 1/4 requires new metal. This is where the costs will add up; so many try adding tons of bondo; then the stuff cracks under the fresh paint, they get discouraged, and sell.

My father in law owned a 68 Torino GT with a 428 SCJ. It was a 10 year project, and a money pit. The car was absolutely mint when he finished it. A friend of his that restored Mustangs (specialized in early Shelbys) told him that to restore a car properly, you open the door, shove money into it. When you cannot get any more money into the car, close the door. It is now restored.

Stick with it. On work you cannot perform yourself (body work is not my thing; I can simply look at a car and make it rust), save up, and have it done by an expert. Hit some car shows in your area, and ask the owners for recommendations of good body shops, or those that do body work. This will be by far your largest expense on this Mustangs restoration.

Done correctly, you will have one beautiful Mustang! Good luck, and keep us posted on the progress.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:29 AM   #29
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At least on 289s and 302s, your block casting number is behind the starter motor on the pass side. To read it you have to get under there and drop the starter motor. I'd google first, but I'd bet you a quarter it's in the same location on a 351W.
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Old 02-26-2015, 03:34 PM   #30
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Yeah a lot of that bondo work was done on those cars in the 70's and early 80's before they were real collectible. Remember when I was a kid watching people fill those cars with Bondo keeping them on the road. There were many primered and patched up musclecars around back then. I wonder what became of some of them.


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Old 02-26-2015, 04:20 PM   #31
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To my knowledge a lot of gas stations crushed them for smog credits back in the 80s and early 90s...


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Old 02-26-2015, 06:41 PM   #32
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To my knowledge a lot of gas stations crushed them for smog credits back in the 80s and early 90s...


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That should have been a crime. I would much rather patch medal then Bondo it.
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Old 02-26-2015, 06:46 PM   #33
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I know for a fact that's how David Freiburger got the crusher Camaro. He bought it before it was crushed...


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Old 02-26-2015, 07:08 PM   #34
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That's some cool information.
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Old 02-26-2015, 07:10 PM   #35
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Anyone who likes classics needs to watch roadkill... It's on YouTube...
He's the editor and chief of hot rod magazine...


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