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Oakleyxjl 68 project

5K views 52 replies 9 participants last post by  Tyoung68 
#1 ·
Hi guys I've got a 68 mustang coupe 289 auto trans. Had it for about 5 years and haven't really done anything to it. Now that I'm an adult my free time is being managed better and starting on my resto/mod for my car. Is there anything that o should be on the look out for will update pics soon.

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#2 ·
Welcome. I am doing a 68 restore myself. Things to be on the look out for are floor pans and battery tray rust. Has the car been sitting, stored, ? This will tell which way you should look.
 
#4 ·
If it will eventually get painted, the first thing I'd look for is the condition of the metal. I'm in the middle of metal work on my 67. It depends on how far you're taking it, but if you have the room (you'd need A LOT), I'd strip the interior and get underneath and look for signs of rust, damage, etc. Get those fixed first, then bodywork and paint, then wiring, interior and drivetrain.

That's if you're doing a full restore. What are your plans?
 
#6 ·
Welcome fellow 68' er ...I'm working on a 68' coupe myself. I bought mine in early 90's didn't have time or money or patience to restore. Sold it to my friends step dad who started some restoration then it sat outside for several years before he realized the cowl vents were rusted and leaking water into the new floor pans. So the cool part is I bought the same car back from him Oct 2013 and like you I,m not doing full original restoration, just upgrading and repairing what needs attention and making it mine! No intention for show car but custom mod.Good Luck with your 68' remember, pace yourself, make a plan and try to stick to an agenda..LOL


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#13 ·
Guess I've been spending too much time on the new Mustang part of this site. I've had a few early Mustangs/Falcons/Maverick and a 68-1/2 CJ Mustang drag car.
Unless someone replace the rear valance with a stocker I'd just guess it's a non-GT. All GT's have cutouts in the lower valance for dual twin tip exhaust. Also it would have a small switch under the left side of the dash for fog lights and holes in the radiator support for the wiring.
I've restored a few early Mustang GT's including my 68-1/2 Cobra jet Mustang drag car.
Just a couple of pointers to look at. When you take the carpets out and clean the floor, look at the foot wells on both left and right fronts for water damage. The cowl tends to clog with dirt/leaves and blocks the drains, then water dust the rust thing around the air intake tubes and water gets into the cabin. Also, the windshield seal and rear window seal dry up over time and crack. You may not see it under the ss molding, but that will let water in and usually in the windshield will let water run down the left of right side onto the floor. If you are going to paint the car anyway I'd take the glass out for the paintwork and replace both seals...........just added insurance.
Also look for rust in the lower rear front fenders and the lower rear quarter panels. If the drain holes get plugged rust starts and it's better to find it sooner than later. Also, take a look at the unibody rails in the rear and front for damage and or rust, it's pretty common.
 
#15 ·
I asked about GT because of the hood. But now that I'm thinking, I seem to remember (probably incorrectly) that the for 67 the turn signal hood came with the GT package, but maybe that it was a separate option for 68. Please check me on this - it's very early.

And I don't think the vin will tell you, but a Marti report will.
 
#16 ·
You are correct about the 67 although after it appeared it became an option in mid to late 67. In 68 the GT, GT/CS and HCS cars came standard with them and it was a very heavily used point of sale on standard Mustangs. A lot of 68 cars came with that option checked off.
 
#22 ·
Looks like a great haul!
 
#25 ·
One warning get those cast iron parts off the concrete floor or they will rust over night. I stored all mine on a piece of plywood to keep the moisture off of them.

Looks like a good haul.

Mike
 
#27 ·
One warning get those cast iron parts off the concrete floor or they will rust over night. I stored all mine on a piece of plywood to keep the moisture off of them.
Great tip. I had some tools inside a steel toolbox that rusted from the box sitting directly on a concrete floor (oddly the box itself did not rust).
 
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