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Old 06-23-2017, 10:19 AM   #316
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Thanks! I know it does but the light gets a little weak everynow and again lol getting close though.


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Can't wait to see it, stick with it!

Yeah, I keep telling myself there is a light at the end of my loooooong tunnel!
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Old 06-23-2017, 12:07 PM   #317
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I love this body style of the Tbirds. Looks great man! Has she gone on her maiden voyage yet, or still some more work ahead?
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Old 06-24-2017, 12:50 AM   #318
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Can't wait to see it, stick with it!

Yeah, I keep telling myself there is a light at the end of my loooooong tunnel!

Lol its funny I always ask my self mid task why I do this to myself and then when I get it done I remember why lol. It's a love hate hobby.


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Old 06-24-2017, 12:53 AM   #319
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I love this body style of the Tbirds. Looks great man! Has she gone on her maiden voyage yet, or still some more work ahead?

It has really grown on me. I was just cruzing Craigslist and this one was just to good to pass up. 66 is definitely my favorite year with this body style it doesn't have the big bummer that covers the whole grill and doesn't have the pointy from end.


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Old 06-24-2017, 01:49 AM   #320
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Originally Posted by ab_mach1 View Post
I love this body style of the Tbirds. Looks great man! Has she gone on her maiden voyage yet, or still some more work ahead?

It has really grown on me. I was just cruzing Craigslist and this one was just to good to pass up. 66 is definitely my favorite year with this body style it doesn't have the big bummer that covers the whole grill and doesn't have the pointy from end.


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Old 06-24-2017, 01:54 AM   #321
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With this heat wave in Cali it's been a little hard to get motivated to work in a garage in 100+ temps out side. So been doing Most my work after 7pm so haven't been able to get her running yet. Just need to finish a couple wires and install the distributor and should be ready to go. Got it back on the groind last night a gave her a wipe down man I can just feel the wind blowing in my face already. Getting close!!

Also don't believe there has been a good shot of the pateina yet so here's her best angle with the garage door shut, also getting bigger tires for those rims just gotta do some measuring first.

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Old 06-24-2017, 03:40 PM   #322
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Lol its funny I always ask my self mid task why I do this to myself and then when I get it done I remember why lol. It's a love hate hobby.


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I was seriously considering my life choices lying under my 67 wire wheeling away 45 years or grime and cover head to toe in crap. But you're right, stick with it and it's all worth it in the end!
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Old 07-11-2017, 08:52 PM   #323
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Well be on a bit of a hiatus been pretty hot around here and haven't had the motivation to get out a sweat my *** of for a couple hours. But it's starting to.cool down and I'm trying to get the engine running but can't get any power to it, we I got the car I could turn the engine over with a screw driver (didn't have a key) but now I don't get anything. I adjusted the shifter linkage but nothing still. But can jump the starter solenoid any ideas?


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Old 07-12-2017, 12:38 PM   #324
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I would start at the ignition switch and find out where the voltage is stopping.
After first double checking that everything is connected properly, of course.
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Old 07-18-2017, 12:48 AM   #325
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Well this is getting very frustrating wiring gremlins are the worst. Kind of just want to re wire the whole car 🙄🙄 still can't get power anywhere I probe


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Old 07-18-2017, 01:00 AM   #326
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Also, is there a chart or something that'll tell me what size of wire for amps/distance? I'm only getting 10.5 with my wire now


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Old 07-18-2017, 06:44 AM   #327
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[QUOTE=Tyoung68;4261582769]Also, is there a chart or something that'll tell me what size of wire for amps/distance? I'm only getting 10.5 with my wire now /QUOTE]


Not exactly sure what you're asking here? Are we actually talking Amps or Volts. I'm assuming we're talking about voltage. I have no idea what your electrical skill level is, so please excuse me if I sound condescending.

Important safety tip: Don't measure current (Amps) across your battery posts, it will destroy your meter.

While there is voltage loss with distance, (which is why AC won over DC current for home use), the length of any run of wire in a car would not significantly affect voltage.

The reason for using larger gauge wire is to handle more Amps. That's why battery cables are so thick. They are made to handle all the Cold Cranking Amps of the battery for a short period of time. Ever notice how hot the cables get when you try and try to start a car that just won't start? That heat is produced by the current flowing through the cable.

If we're talking volts (10.5V), and the battery (measured directly at the terminals) measures 12V, then something is adding resistance to the wire you are checking. Follow the circuit from where you are at, (measuring 10.5V) and work backwards till you get to 12 volts, and you should find your problem.

If we're talking Amps - The wire size doesn't matter when it comes to current flow. If you're seeing 10.5 amps with 16AWG wire it will still be 10.5 amps with 8AWG wire. But the smaller the wire gauge the less current the wire can handle before burning up.
(Note: the higher the AWG number the smaller the diameter of the wire. So 8AWG is actually larger than 16AWG, by a lot!)

Hope this helps a little bit.
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Old 07-18-2017, 03:46 PM   #328
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I am fairly proficient with wiring I guess I just didn't word it right.

My issue is that the battery is under the hood and in putting all my airride components in the trunk. It need a 70 amp relay for the compressor. So got a fuse right next to the battery under the hood and ran a wire, don't remember what size was but faily thick and I get 13.5 on one end a 10.5 on the other. The cable is about 20ft long

So, by chart I mean is there one for rating and distance for the correct wire

Something like this
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:28 PM   #329
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Ahh, I get it now. so at the battery (fuse) you see 13.5v, and at the other end you only see 10.5v. That's a 3% voltage drop, so you definitely need a larger cable. And a lot depends on the type of cable you use. (They are not created equal). But we'll assume you're using copper wire, (THHN), then to handle your 70amps (which seems like a lot, but I guess if you're running a compressor and such off it maybe not), the you will need a minimum of 8AWG, or 6AWG if you want protection up to 95amps. 6 would also help with the voltage loss.

(Your average battery cable is 4AWG).

4AWG - 13.5v @ 70A over 20 ft. = 12.8v
6AWG - 13.5v @ 70A over 20 ft. = 12.4v (most economical)
8AWG - 13.5v @ 70A over 20 ft. = 11.7v

The lower the actual current draw the less the voltage drop.

Hey! here's a nifty online voltage drop calculator, I just used to to confirm my answers...

Voltage Drop Calculator

Best of luck to you!
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Old 07-18-2017, 04:40 PM   #330
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Ok, I just did some research for you. Looking around, most people are using 1/0 or 2/0 cable to relocate their batteries to the trunk. But considering that's 300A + over 20 ft. it would probably be overkill for your project. I still think 6AWG will do it for you, and be a lot cheaper than 1/0.

Good Luck!
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Old 07-18-2017, 05:06 PM   #331
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Hmm yeah okay. I did some googling too, I think I'm going to go with a 2 awg because I'm running it to a bulk head and running a couole other little things off of it. Thanks for the help!!


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Old 07-18-2017, 06:05 PM   #332
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No problem. Glad I could help. 2AWG would definately handle your project plus. Sounds like you're on your way. Keep us all posted of your progress!
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Old 07-24-2017, 05:06 AM   #333
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I've been following your thread and know you're using an fe motor. I ran across some interesting information I thought I'd share. https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/...e-help.141343/

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Old 07-24-2017, 03:05 PM   #334
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There's some good info in there thanks!


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Old 07-24-2017, 06:44 PM   #335
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Wow lots of great 390 info! Thnks!
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Old 07-24-2017, 06:49 PM   #336
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My only word of caution is, if anyone ever asks you what "FE" stands for, don't tell them that it means Fairlane Engine. That is one of the most ridiculous things that I have ever heard. It almost prompted me to immediately stop reading that post.
FE stands for Ford Edsel.

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Old 07-24-2017, 07:52 PM   #337
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Lol yeah didn't think that part was true


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Old 07-24-2017, 10:22 PM   #338
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Yeah there's a few things I question. But in the end made me glad I scrape up every fe I can find.

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Old 07-24-2017, 10:51 PM   #339
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I skimmed through the entire post and that was all that I could see that was glaringly wrong.
But, holy cow! Lol. It really makes you question the validity of the entire post.

You can still find the 390's fairly easily. They made a lot of them! I think they used 390`s in trucks until 1976 or so.
The 427's and 428's are much more difficult to find, with the 427 side-oiler engine being the rarest.
I sometimes see the 427's and 428's in old boats that are for sale. Even the side-oiler's! I actually sold a boat a boat last year that had a 428 SCJ installed in it. So that is another source for the rarer FE engines that is sometimes overlooked.
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Old 09-23-2017, 07:11 PM   #340
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Still haven't gotten it running but can finally say the suspension and airride are fully installed. Trying to get all the little things fixed before I start it because I know as soon as I hear it run I'm going to want to drive it.

So anywaus, I'm trying to get all the lights to work now. In the rail light housing I had to replace all the housings for the lights and epoxy new ones in place. But now I have a ground issue. Is there a conductive epoxy? That I can use to run grounds to all of the housings? Or what can I do about this


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