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Old 01-19-2016, 09:49 AM   #141
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That is the VIN. 5th digit is Z, 10.5:1 390.


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Old 01-19-2016, 10:20 AM   #142
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That is the VIN. 5th digit is Z, 10.5:1 390.


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Damn. I might need glasses!
That looked like a 7.
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Old 01-19-2016, 10:56 AM   #143
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Well, as far as the CR goes, 10.5:1 is a lot for the street but it will work on pump gas in my opinion. The only concern would be if the machining process (head milling, block decking) reduces the combustion chamber volume enough to increase the compression ratio and raises it beyond what our California pump gas will allow.
I'm not sure if Felix is aware that you are planning on using aluminum heads. They will allow you to use a bit higher compression than the cast iron heads due to the superior heat dissipating qualities of aluminum. Also, the Edelbrock heads have a more modern combustion chamber design than the OEM heads. And the new heads won't require any machining so the combustion chamber volume will not be reduced by as much as if you were using the stock heads after they have been re-surfaced.
I know that some people use dished pistons in FE performance rebuilds. It is a way to ensure that the engine will run good on any grade of pump gas.
For a performance na build, the name of the game is compression. You want as much as you can reasonably get away with!

Make sure that Felix knows what your plans are for this build. He has been doing this for a long time. If he thinks that 10.5:1 is too much for a street engine, then I would listen to him.
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:25 PM   #144
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I was gonna say that better be the vin, I put it on all the paper work lol

I'm thinking I'm going to stay at 10.5:1 I think with a fresh rebuild and alum intake I'll be able to keep the heat down. This car is pretty much my dads I'm just building it, and he was already talking about bumping up the compression plus this isn't going to be a daily driver so if worse case I'll get some race gas and stick the engine in the mustang!
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Old 01-19-2016, 02:27 PM   #145
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But as far as being rare? Does anyone have any production numbers on how many came with the z block? I tried google but couldn't find much
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:35 PM   #146
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I don't think that you will have any problems at 10.5:1. The engine in my truck is around 10ish and it runs fine on 87, most of the time. If the weather is hot, and I'm pulling a heavy load, it pings a little bit, but 91 octane typically solves the problem.

I don't know the production numbers but I'm thinking that the majority of 66 T-birds came with the Z code engine. There were only two engine choices, the 390 and the 428... Well, three engine choices actually. There was a low (9:1) compression 390 that was only available in the cars that were exported to different countries which had only low octane fuel available.
So the Z-code 390 was basically the standard engine, and the Q-code 428 was the optional engine.
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Old 01-19-2016, 04:45 PM   #147
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I did a quick Google search and according to that data plate yours was born with a 315 horse 4 bbl 390 with a 10.5:1 compression ratio.
http://www.tbird.org/DataPlate/vdata.htm


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Old 01-19-2016, 05:23 PM   #148
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And, if anyone is wondering why building a 10.5:1 engine to replace an engine that came stock with the same compression ratio might be a problem... It is because the fuel is lower octane now than it was in the 60's. In 1966 the octane rating of regular gasoline averaged about 90. Premium (ethyl) was in the 100-103 octane range. 10.5:1 was the standard compression ratio! That's what made the Muscle car era so great!
It wasn't until the Clean Air Act of 1970 when automobile manufacturers started to lower the compression ratios of their engines.
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Old 01-19-2016, 07:43 PM   #149
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Well got a call from Felix and there's a hole in #6... And good thing about the compression ratios and octane.
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:44 PM   #150
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A hole in #6???
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Old 01-19-2016, 11:52 PM   #151
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A hole in #6???

Yeah... Doesn't that sound a bit fishy? Maybe they screwed it up?
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:02 AM   #152
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Do you mean that when they were boring the cylinder a hole appeared?
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:10 AM   #153
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66 thunderbird

I'm not sure, I missed the call and by time I got to my phone it was to late to call them back. I'm going to give them a call in the morning and see what's going one

I mean I looked everything over and never saw anything before. And they only went 30 over.
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Old 01-20-2016, 12:16 AM   #154
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Yeah. That's strange.
It will be interesting to hear what happened.
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Old 01-21-2016, 11:31 PM   #155
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Did you find out what happened?

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Old 02-01-2016, 07:53 PM   #156
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Weird I thought I replied.... Anyways he said he was just boring it 30 over and it showed up, wasn't sure if it was a cast defect or if it was eaten away from the coolant. But he was pretty admin about me coming down to take a look at it so I believe him about it.

And this showed up today,
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Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1454381584.058843.jpg
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ID:	196524Im surprised about this kit tbh and I don't know why really everything just seems so sturdy and well machined can't want to get this mocked up. I also ordered the accuair air management this weekend should be here in about a week and a half. Also the block is done and is just waiting to be picked up. Only thing I'm waiting on now is the top end kit. It was on back order so hopefully that'll get shipped out soon.
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Old 02-02-2016, 12:19 AM   #157
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So the block is still usable?
The main reason that Ford discontinued the FE series engine is because they were difficult to cast, and there were a lot of blocks that were rejected before making it to the machining process.

That four-link is a universal kit?
It will be interesting to see the installation process.
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Old 02-02-2016, 01:08 AM   #158
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Yeah he just put a sleeve in it. And yes, a universal one, it's triangulated one too. They make a kit for an 8.8 so you don't have to weld on tabs to the axle. Biggest thing in worried about is the welding lol hope I'm up to par. And I guess I spoke a little two soon on the kit, I missing the tabs that weld on for the uca.
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Old 02-06-2016, 02:26 PM   #159
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Well picked up the engine yesterday, forgot to ask what size bearings I'll need so I'll to call back on Monday total was 1063.19$ not bad really. Also he sent me the picture of the hole in the cylinder. And I can't honestly tell which cylinder was sleeved. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-06-2016, 11:24 PM   #160
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That is the damndest thing!

That was hiding behind .030 of metal!
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Old 02-06-2016, 11:56 PM   #161
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Well actually, it was 27 over ( plus 3 for honing, so a total of 30) so it was only half of 27. So it was hidden behind 13 thousands of an inch. Crazy huh? Never notices a thing when I disassemble it.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:45 AM   #162
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Well started to dive into the 4 link install and it's going to be a pita with this kit it says that lowers need to be 27-1/8 front mount to center of axle, and I have about 28" to work with. And with the supplied brackets I need about 33" soooo looks like I'm going to have to make some sort of cross member for the rear for a mount. So I'm think something like this, or do you think this is over kill?


I also designed just one that welds to the frame that would create a little pocket for the lca to sit in. I guess if it's worth engineering, it's worth over engineering.
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Old 02-08-2016, 02:47 AM   #163
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Picture didn't work last time Click image for larger version

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Old 02-09-2016, 07:11 PM   #164
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Finishes up the drawing tonight should hopefully will have this started in Friday. Click image for larger version

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Old 02-09-2016, 07:27 PM   #165
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That looks like it's going to involve a fair bit of engineering to make it work.
Let the fabrication begin!
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Old 02-09-2016, 11:19 PM   #166
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It does look scary, but I have all the brackets and control arms, just not the front cross member. Should be pretty straight forward on making that just need to make some measurements and get the materials.
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Old 02-10-2016, 01:16 AM   #167
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You're making the cross piece with the driveshaft loop? That does look like fun. I'm interested in hearing what thickness you make the loop out of and how you go about bending it to a nice radius. Keep us posted!
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Old 02-10-2016, 11:02 AM   #168
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You can buy pre bent hoops I think I'm going to go with some 1-3/4 dom tubing. I'll just buy two 180*. Bends and weld them together
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Old 02-23-2016, 11:56 PM   #169
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Have some second thoughts about my mount. The front leaf spring mount bolts on, so I'm thinking about just making a mount that can bolt on and not have a cross member. The problem I'm facing is make a d.s loop that won't scrape, and making provisions for the exhaust and still have it make sense for the cross member.

Anyways got the rear end and gas tank out a couple nights with my brother and got it all cleaned up. Good news is that there is a lot of room under there now. Just need to get the transmission out now and figure what todo with that. I'm thinking about doing a c6 swap and just buy a rebuilt on online. And then get the rear end prepped for the 4 link. A little disappointed with edelbrock and accuair with the shipping. Ordered it on the 29 of Jan, and neither have shipped and little communication between me and the company. I had to write a *****y email to accuair to get a response, which they did reply in under an hour and said it should be shipped early next week( this week) so we'll see. And the top end kit still has no ship date. So we'll see. Kinda lame that both purchases that were both a couple thousand each yet they can't return an email or phone call. On the bright side once this car is done it'll be one of a kind, not many out there with all this work done to it so I suppose it's worth the wait.

One last thing, anyone know a good piston company? I need some 30 over but want to keep the 10.5:1 and have only found some from probe industry's for a little over 800$
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Old 02-24-2016, 10:28 AM   #170
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What kind of pistons are you planning on using? Hypereutectic? Forged?
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Old 02-24-2016, 12:10 PM   #171
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Trying to keep cost low, so trying to avoid forged because we have no plan of boosting it
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:00 PM   #172
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On my "street build" 460, I used TRW/Speed-pro/Federal-Mogul hypereutectic pistons. (All the same company). Hypereutectic pistons are typically lighter than forged, so that is an advantage if you don't need the strength of a forged piston... Aside from them being much less expensive.
I only have slightly over 400k miles on that engine though... So the jury is still out on their durability.

$800 is a lot of money for a set of pistons for the type of engine that you plan on building. Search around. There are a lot of pistons available for the FE engines.
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Old 02-24-2016, 01:36 PM   #173
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The problem is finding ones that'll keep the 10.5:1 summit and jegs have them but they only give like 8.9:1 in the 350ish range. The 800$ ones come with rings though I think
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Old 02-24-2016, 02:27 PM   #174
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What size are the combustion chambers on those Edelbrock heads?
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Old 02-24-2016, 03:07 PM   #175
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72cc I believe
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