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Old 07-09-2016, 09:08 PM   #211
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Well got the drive side all mocked back up so I can measure for the air bags. Now for the other side Click image for larger version

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Old 07-11-2016, 01:54 PM   #212
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Did T-birds come with front disk brakes in 66?

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Old 07-11-2016, 02:52 PM   #213
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I believe they did.
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Old 07-11-2016, 04:57 PM   #214
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The car does weigh 4200lbs and had 300 hp from the factory
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Old 07-20-2016, 08:26 PM   #215
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Well got the shocks in. Had to make a mount for top happy with the results. Just need to round off the top of the points and the finish welding it all. Haven't been able to work on it as much due to my summer class coming up should have it back on the ground shortly. Click image for larger version

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Old 07-20-2016, 10:46 PM   #216
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Good job. They look great.


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289 - Holley 4150 570cfm; Performer intake; mild cam; MSD HEI; 302 heads; Roller Tips; Hedman Tri-Y headers; H-pipe w/Flowmaster 40's; 9 in posi 3.50; 205/50-17F; 225/50-17R.
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Old 07-21-2016, 04:04 PM   #217
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Good job. They look great.


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Thanks.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:16 AM   #218
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So needed a change of pace so I tackled the engine again, got all the cam bearings knocked in and 3 Pistons... Till I broke my tool. Started working on the cam again, the top end kit came with a timing set that has the option to advance/****** the gear by4*. Any suggestions? It doesn't say anywhere what to do just that advancing it would lower the Rpm to power range but I'm already worried about detonation. Should I just go with stock?
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Old 07-25-2016, 07:14 AM   #219
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Advancing the cam doesn't affect spark timing so no concern with detonation. Advancing the cam does impact where your power band is in the rpm range. If you don't advance a high rpm cam, it's hard to get any acceleration with a stock stall speed converter in an automatic. And with a stick you'll always be way up in the rpm's. If the manufacturer says advance it then you should. Different manufacturers grind them differently. You should ask them if you're not sure.


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Old 07-25-2016, 11:43 AM   #220
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Which cam do you have? Performer or RPM?

I run the Performer in my truck "straight up". (Middle key way)
I used to have the cam in advanced by about 2 degrees but, for a truck engine, it put the power band slightly higher than I needed, about 90% of the time.
For a heavy vehicle, with a stock torque converter, you don't want the cam advanced too far because it will be a slug out of the hole.
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Old 07-25-2016, 12:24 PM   #221
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I think it goes the other way. Advancing cam timing brings the power band down. At least it did on my car. Engine builder installed a Clay Smith cam straight up and it's supposed to be advanced 4. Once I had the cam degreed and advanced, ran great


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Old 07-25-2016, 12:29 PM   #222
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Just found this. Interesting read. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/...ng-a-camshaft/


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Old 07-25-2016, 01:13 PM   #223
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Originally Posted by matcox83 View Post
I think it goes the other way. Advancing cam timing brings the power band down. At least it did on my car. Engine builder installed a Clay Smith cam straight up and it's supposed to be advanced 4. Once I had the cam degreed and advanced, ran great


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Yes. It depends on how a particular manufacturer grinds the cam.
For the purposes of this conversation, we will be referring to the Edelbrock camshafts.
I actually have a Performer-plus cam in my vast collection of ready to install performance parts. Lol.
Here are the specs for it. They specifically recommend using their timing chain set to avoid the factory re-tarded cam timing on many OEM style timing sets.
Granted, these cam specs are for a 385-series engine, but I'm using it as an example of how re-tarding the cam actually moves the power band down in the RPM range in some cases. The stock big-block in my truck, with the stock cam and timing set, made full power at less than 4,000 RPM's.

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Old 07-25-2016, 04:20 PM   #224
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Hmm not sure what cam came with the top end kit. I'll see what it says on the box in a bit

---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:19 PM ----------

But thanks for all the info. I'll decider it all and see what I should do.
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Old 07-25-2016, 04:49 PM   #225
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If you have a 7800 series timing set, they specifically warn against installing either the Performer plus or RPM cams in any other position except straight up.


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Old 07-25-2016, 04:54 PM   #226
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Many cams come ready to put in straight up (the advance is already accounted for.) Others (Clay Smith for example) tell you to advance it. That's why you have to check the manufacturers instructions.


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Old 07-26-2016, 04:04 AM   #227
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Yeah when I did my cam in my 6 I had to degree it which was a huge pain in the ***. I didn't get a chance to go through all the paper work today but I did re read the cam instructions and it did say to keep it at 0* or check... So if I did want to advance it all if have to do is degree it and check for clearances? I would rather do a bit more work now to have the power band in the sweet spot. Or do you guys think it's now worth the headache and just put it in the 0* position?


Also new question, what should I do about an ignition system? I'm not a fan of mad... Haven't heard anything good about them. And petrinox( or how ever you spell it) hasn't seem the best quality that I've seen on my mustang. I'm on my 2nd coil and the first one terminal burned up after about 100 miles. What else is out there?
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Old 07-26-2016, 10:22 AM   #228
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I suggest using the Edelbrock timing set and installing the cam straight up, just like Edelbrock recommends.
My cam install, 20 years ago, should be used as an example of how not to install an Edelbrock cam! Haha. I was actually being a tight wad, and I wanted to re-use a very low mileage timing set that was the wrong one. I had a couple of different crank gears from different sets that I was mixing and matching to try to get it as close to zero as possible. It wasn't worth the trouble "dialing it in" because it was never going to be right anyway. I replaced the timing set with the correct Edelbrock set when the water pump needed to be replaced. Hell, it's been so long since I built that engine, I honestly can't clearly remember if the timing was advanced or retarded now that Matt jogged my memory a bit! Lol.

Save yourself the trouble and just install the cam straight up using the correct Edelbrock timing set.

I would look into finding an HEI style distributor that will work on a FE engine.
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Old 07-26-2016, 10:29 AM   #229
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Yep. Per the instructions.


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Old 08-27-2016, 04:52 PM   #230
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Well I decided to put the engine on the back burner, I didn't want to assemble it all just have it sit around while I finished the rest of the car. So finished up the 4 link mock up. I need to cut some relifes for travel in the lower arms but other wise ready for finish welding it all. Next will be mounting up the rear shocks, which will be a task still not sure what I want to do with them. There's no room behind the axles due to the gas tank being there and They are "eye mounts" so I'll have to do some figuring. I'm 90% done with the front. I was replacing the upper a arm shaft bushings and the passenger shaft was worn out so I'm waiting for a new one to come in and then I'll be able to assemble it all. My next problem is deciding if I should go with hard lines for the air lines. It looks a lot cleaner and id feel better about running hard lines under the car up to the front. Click image for larger version

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Old 09-02-2016, 04:21 AM   #231
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Well I pulled the rear end out today to-do the final welding and ran out of gas after welding for like 15 min, so back to waiting. Hoping I'll be able to get a bottle in the morning and at least finish the rear welding and pick up that a arm shaft in the am too. Then just the engine and it'll be "drive able".
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Old 09-02-2016, 03:41 PM   #232
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So how low do you think that it will sit? Will it lay all of the way on the ground?
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Old 09-02-2016, 04:09 PM   #233
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Depending on the rims but fully aired out it should be only an inch or so off the ground.
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Old 09-03-2016, 12:23 AM   #234
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Well all the parts today and a bottle only to run out of wire at 9... But got enough welding to do another mock fit and figure out what to do with the rear shocks. And how to make enough room for them to mount.

Also got the front all put back together just need to finish welding the mount and then.... Final test fit and put her back on her feet.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:40 AM   #235
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Well I've been a bit pre occupied with my other cars and school so haven't had much time for this one. I've got almost all mounts made and suspension 90% there just need to make shock mounts for he axle or might just buy some kinda losing motivation for this. Seems like I'm just spinning my tires and not getting anywhere with it. It's almost been a full year since it went up on he stands and honestly don't see it getting back down before January. Just too many other projects to deal with. It's also kind of annoying that I'm getting no help from my dad or vother, when this is supposed to be a boys project. Just so many little tasks eat up all my time I can't get anything big done.
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Old 10-28-2016, 11:05 AM   #236
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"Just so many little tasks eat up all my time I can't get anything big done."

Holy crap, that's the story of my life. Hang in there man. Sometimes it helps me to set aside an hour here or there to put everything else aside and only focus on the big task you want to do. Doing this helps this move forward so I'm at least making some progress even if it's slow.
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Old 10-28-2016, 01:44 PM   #237
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Good luck on that neighbor! Im in Pacheco now, go straight up w/ cam, 390's are great, I also loved my 460!
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Old 10-28-2016, 05:53 PM   #238
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I agree with ER12883. I have started setting aside about 3 to 4 hours. All i wanted to do was replace gaskets due to a head gasket on my 5.4 Triton. Rust, family, school and work takes up most my time. Started this back in late March early April of course my vehicle is across town at my sisters. I set one task to complete within that time. Last weekend. Finally disconnected driver manifold from the down pipe and cut 2 bolts off the top.

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Old 10-30-2016, 04:24 PM   #239
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Even still it's tough because everyone just throws everything in the garage and I have to spend 1-2 hours cleaning up just so I can have room to work. I suppose I'm just being hard on myself. With the amount of time I've put in I feel like I should be a lot further along than I am.
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Old 10-31-2016, 10:32 AM   #240
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I suppose I'm just being hard on myself. With the amount of time I've put in I feel like I should be a lot further along than I am.
I am so hearing myself in these statements. I don't have garage, but I can see how that is a pain. The drive and taking my tools in and out of my vehicles takes up about that much time for me. It makes you not want to do it. Then you have to put everything back.

I hear you loud in clear on all this. It is a big let down, but yeah just got to find your groove and get back in there. These are words I keep telling myself,lol.


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Old 11-01-2016, 01:24 AM   #241
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Yeah I think my Jeep is feeding into this it's been down a month and cant get it running now. Although I did just get a twelver and clean up my work bench and organized all my tools so I'll actually be able to get some stuff down this weekend.
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Old 11-01-2016, 01:29 AM   #242
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Yeah I think my Jeep is feeding into this it's been down a month and cant get it running now. Although I did just get a twelver and clean up my work bench and organized all my tools so I'll actually be able to get some stuff down this weekend.
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Old 11-22-2016, 02:08 AM   #243
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Well I'm 4 brackets away from putting her back on the ground. And a few air lines. Then just an oil pump pick up and push rods for the engine and a brake job till shes driving. Nothing a weekend can't fix eh?
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Old 11-22-2016, 06:28 AM   #244
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That's awesome. Of course a good weekend will knock that right out

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Old 12-16-2016, 12:28 AM   #245
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A few set backs, finals are done now though and I have about a month off. That's enough time to rebuild 3 engines right? 🙄
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