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66 thunderbird

24K views 339 replies 24 participants last post by  Tyoung68 
#1 ·
I can't really find a good forum for t birds and recently got one so I figure is start a thread on here sense it's just a mustangs fat older sister haha

Anyways like the title says it's a 66, it's got a 390 with an auto. Car was is In pretty good shape for the price.

The whole car pretty much needs a whole resto but has a lot of usable parts on it. No rot but some surface rust and needs a driver fender. And the engine needs new freeze plugs and a good cleaning

The interior is in pretty good shape just needs a head liner and carpet.

Body is straight just needs some work in the rocker panel and quarter other than that just a few little dings here and there.

It has power windows, locks brakes and steering and lots of other things

The car doesn't really need a whole lot just a lot of time.

As of now I've torn off all the engine accessories and hood/grill to get ready to pull the motor. And gave it a good washing. And cleaned it out. I'm in the car around 1200 including a new carb/rebuild kit towing a few other small items and the car itself. Hoping to get some help from you guys when I get stumped!

I don't have any pictures on my phone I'll post some in a bit from my laptop.
 
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#215 ·
Well got the shocks in. Had to make a mount for top happy with the results. Just need to round off the top of the points and the finish welding it all. Haven't been able to work on it as much due to my summer class coming up should have it back on the ground shortly. Auto part Vehicle brake Disc brake Brake Wheel
Auto part
Auto part Suspension part Suspension Vehicle brake Engine
 
#216 ·
Good job. They look great.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 
#218 ·
So needed a change of pace so I tackled the engine again, got all the cam bearings knocked in and 3 Pistons... Till I broke my tool. Started working on the cam again, the top end kit came with a timing set that has the option to advance/****** the gear by4*. Any suggestions? It doesn't say anywhere what to do just that advancing it would lower the Rpm to power range but I'm already worried about detonation. Should I just go with stock?
 
#219 ·
Advancing the cam doesn't affect spark timing so no concern with detonation. Advancing the cam does impact where your power band is in the rpm range. If you don't advance a high rpm cam, it's hard to get any acceleration with a stock stall speed converter in an automatic. And with a stick you'll always be way up in the rpm's. If the manufacturer says advance it then you should. Different manufacturers grind them differently. You should ask them if you're not sure.


www.vintageinlines.com
 
#220 ·
Which cam do you have? Performer or RPM?

I run the Performer in my truck "straight up". (Middle key way)
I used to have the cam in advanced by about 2 degrees but, for a truck engine, it put the power band slightly higher than I needed, about 90% of the time.
For a heavy vehicle, with a stock torque converter, you don't want the cam advanced too far because it will be a slug out of the hole.
 
#223 ·
Yes. It depends on how a particular manufacturer grinds the cam.
For the purposes of this conversation, we will be referring to the Edelbrock camshafts.
I actually have a Performer-plus cam in my vast collection of ready to install performance parts. Lol.
Here are the specs for it. They specifically recommend using their timing chain set to avoid the factory re-tarded cam timing on many OEM style timing sets.
Granted, these cam specs are for a 385-series engine, but I'm using it as an example of how re-tarding the cam actually moves the power band down in the RPM range in some cases. The stock big-block in my truck, with the stock cam and timing set, made full power at less than 4,000 RPM's.

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#224 ·
Hmm not sure what cam came with the top end kit. I'll see what it says on the box in a bit

---------- Post added at 03:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:19 PM ----------

But thanks for all the info. I'll decider it all and see what I should do.
 
#227 ·
Yeah when I did my cam in my 6 I had to degree it which was a huge pain in the ***. I didn't get a chance to go through all the paper work today but I did re read the cam instructions and it did say to keep it at 0* or check... So if I did want to advance it all if have to do is degree it and check for clearances? I would rather do a bit more work now to have the power band in the sweet spot. Or do you guys think it's now worth the headache and just put it in the 0* position?


Also new question, what should I do about an ignition system? I'm not a fan of mad... Haven't heard anything good about them. And petrinox( or how ever you spell it) hasn't seem the best quality that I've seen on my mustang. I'm on my 2nd coil and the first one terminal burned up after about 100 miles. What else is out there?
 
#228 ·
I suggest using the Edelbrock timing set and installing the cam straight up, just like Edelbrock recommends.
My cam install, 20 years ago, should be used as an example of how not to install an Edelbrock cam! Haha. I was actually being a tight wad, and I wanted to re-use a very low mileage timing set that was the wrong one. I had a couple of different crank gears from different sets that I was mixing and matching to try to get it as close to zero as possible. It wasn't worth the trouble "dialing it in" because it was never going to be right anyway. I replaced the timing set with the correct Edelbrock set when the water pump needed to be replaced. Hell, it's been so long since I built that engine, I honestly can't clearly remember if the timing was advanced or retarded now that Matt jogged my memory a bit! Lol.

Save yourself the trouble and just install the cam straight up using the correct Edelbrock timing set.

I would look into finding an HEI style distributor that will work on a FE engine.
 
#230 ·
Well I decided to put the engine on the back burner, I didn't want to assemble it all just have it sit around while I finished the rest of the car. So finished up the 4 link mock up. I need to cut some relifes for travel in the lower arms but other wise ready for finish welding it all. Next will be mounting up the rear shocks, which will be a task still not sure what I want to do with them. There's no room behind the axles due to the gas tank being there and They are "eye mounts" so I'll have to do some figuring. I'm 90% done with the front. I was replacing the upper a arm shaft bushings and the passenger shaft was worn out so I'm waiting for a new one to come in and then I'll be able to assemble it all. My next problem is deciding if I should go with hard lines for the air lines. It looks a lot cleaner and id feel better about running hard lines under the car up to the front. Auto part Tire Suspension part Automotive tire Wheel
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Vehicle Alloy wheel
 
#231 ·
Well I pulled the rear end out today to-do the final welding and ran out of gas after welding for like 15 min, so back to waiting. Hoping I'll be able to get a bottle in the morning and at least finish the rear welding and pick up that a arm shaft in the am too. Then just the engine and it'll be "drive able".
 
#234 ·
Well all the parts today and a bottle only to run out of wire at 9... But got enough welding to do another mock fit and figure out what to do with the rear shocks. And how to make enough room for them to mount.

Also got the front all put back together just need to finish welding the mount and then.... Final test fit and put her back on her feet.
 
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