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Old 08-22-2015, 11:23 PM   #36
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Id love to get into racing and would love to learn how to tune cars just a little timid. Along with the specialist tools you need to work on/diagnosed cars with computers. But I guess you gotta pay to play. I also have a 66 t-bird that I have thought many times about put in a coyote in with air ride and then taking the 390 and put it in my mustang with fuel injection. All a bunch of thoughts at this point though. My car needs the rear end rebuild and new floors before anything else happens. But we'll aw how everything goes.
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Old 08-23-2015, 07:01 AM   #37
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Well she's all together took her for a spin all gears work, a little slippage between shift need to adjust the bands a bit and the vacuum mod then should be good to go. Feels good to drive her again.

Keep it up my man, two years and counting until I'm back and working in my garage, so I'm living vicariously through you!
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Old 08-23-2015, 08:28 AM   #38
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Great job! I can't believe the guy that just rebuilt his transmission is timid about electronics. You said you had help with the trans so just find someone to help with the electronics. Maybe you could find someone to hang around with that does it and lend them a hand while you learn. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

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Old 08-23-2015, 12:43 PM   #39
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Keep it up my man, two years and counting until I'm back and working in my garage, so I'm living vicariously through you!

Ha it'll go by quick!
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Old 08-23-2015, 12:44 PM   #40
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Great job! I can't believe the guy that just rebuilt his transmission is timid about electronics. You said you had help with the trans so just find someone to help with the electronics. Maybe you could find someone to hang around with that does it and lend them a hand while you learn. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

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You must be think of someone else because I re wired my whole car lol
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Old 08-23-2015, 01:00 PM   #41
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Great job! I can't believe the guy that just rebuilt his transmission is timid about electronics. You said you had help with the trans so just find someone to help with the electronics. Maybe you could find someone to hang around with that does it and lend them a hand while you learn. I'm sure you'll figure it out.

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You must be think of someone else because I re wired my whole car lol
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Old 08-23-2015, 02:37 PM   #42
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Well I think I spoke too soon. Iv always had a 2-3 slip and it hasn't gone away. Only thing left of a valve body. I put a shift kit in mine and it's never worked right sense. Guess I'll be ordering one from summit shortly
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Old 08-24-2015, 09:42 PM   #43
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They are very important, I forget the spec on the end play on the trans but that is very crucial. You need an end gauge to measure that properly with the trans out and on the bench with the valve body out. Use a screw driver to rock the clutch drum back and forth


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Old 08-25-2015, 12:45 AM   #44
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It all fit tight together. Don't think that there was much of any end playa free I got the right snap ring.
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Old 08-25-2015, 08:11 AM   #45
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Hopefully it's all good, c4's can be finicky with initial setups and adjustments


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Old 08-25-2015, 12:38 PM   #46
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Well the more I look into this in thinking it could be my servo... It didn't slide right in very easily, I had to knock it in with a hammer ( lightly tap it with a hammer) but check it with air and it moved freely. That's in the little housing, not the case. Are there any c4 gurus on here that have any impute? If I'm just going to throw parts at it I mine as well start with the "cheapest" first
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Old 08-25-2015, 12:50 PM   #47
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Was the servo bore clean? I cleaned mine up with red scotch brute and some ATF to take out any scoring


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Old 08-25-2015, 01:01 PM   #48
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C4 rebuild

It was a little tight I took some 1000 grit sand paper to it to clean it up a bit and it helped a lot. It was putting the servo into the cover that I had to tap it in

Edit: took sand paper to the rod on the servo
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Old 08-25-2015, 03:35 PM   #49
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That sounds about right, now did you adjust the bands?


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Old 08-25-2015, 03:50 PM   #50
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That sounds about right, now did you adjust the bands?


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Yes adjusted the bands per spec.
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Old 08-25-2015, 04:08 PM   #51
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First how did the intermediate band look when you took it out?, and I assume you replaced it?
If it was burned or scored it could have been because of low pressure of the servo.
It's been a long time since I've worked on a C4 so just a couple of comments on the slippage between 2nd and 3rd.
#1. The clearance of the clutch pack is either to great or not enough. The only way to check is with a dial indicator and an air hose. (This is kind of important)
#2. Damage to the clutch piston sealing rings or seal.

Just some thoughts and like I said, it's been a long time since I worked on one.
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Old 08-25-2015, 06:40 PM   #52
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I check the clearance of clutches per the instructions, saying use a feeler gauge between the last steel and snap ring. The band was replaced with a new one. The only reason I say the servo or valve body is because they are the only two that haven't been replaced and sense I rebuilt my trans the first time it has always had a flare. I should also mention that it only happens when I'm accelerating, if I shift manually through the gears and let up between gears then it'll shift fine.
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Old 08-25-2015, 10:06 PM   #53
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I check the clearance of clutches per the instructions, saying use a feeler gauge between the last steel and snap ring. The band was replaced with a new one. The only reason I say the servo or valve body is because they are the only two that haven't been replaced and sense I rebuilt my trans the first time it has always had a flare. I should also mention that it only happens when I'm accelerating, if I shift manually through the gears and let up between gears then it'll shift fine.
Ok, what about starting in 1st gear and accelerate up to 25mph.....then let off the gas............does the car start coming to a stop from the braking of the engine?
Try this in 2nd also...manually and see what happens.
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Old 08-26-2015, 07:35 PM   #54
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There is engine braking in 1st and 2nd. I realized that my servo didn't have a spring in it..... So got one from a jy today and put it in and got the flare down to about 2-300. Didn't mess with the band after I re installed the servo, do you think that adjustments could remedy that?
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Old 08-26-2015, 07:39 PM   #55
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Yes, band adjustments should curb that, again I forget the exact spec per ford manual but it's something like back out both jamb nuts and torque to 25ft-lb the back out 1/4 turn


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---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

I have the c4 rebuild manual in my garage I'll take a look at it tomorow if I can remember to


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Old 08-26-2015, 07:41 PM   #56
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Yes, band adjustments should curb that, again I forget the exact spec per ford manual but it's something like back out both jamb nuts and torque to 25ft-lb the back out 1/4 turn


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---------- Post added at 07:39 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:38 PM ----------

I have the c4 rebuild manual in my garage I'll take a look at it tomorow if I can remember to


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I have a manual it's to 10ft/lbs the 1-1/4 but iv never seen that work. I'll just try small adjustments
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Old 08-28-2015, 10:31 PM   #57
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Sorry, I've been gone.
So, how did the adjusting go?
Just thinking about the slipping from 2nd to 3rd....although there can be a multitude of things to look at I would think it should be narrowed down to wrong clutch clearances, some type of damage to the clutch piston seal or fluid is leaking past the iron sealing rings.
If the motor would not slow the car down in 1st or 2nd when you accelerate in each of these gears manually when you let off the gas...........I would say the valve body could be the problem, but you say this isn't true so I can only guess it's not the valve body.
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Old 08-29-2015, 01:33 PM   #58
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Adjusting didnt do anything still about a 2-300 flare. But when I put that spring in it helped the most so I'm thinking a servo is the way to go.
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Old 08-29-2015, 08:00 PM   #59
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If there is no engine braking I believe that's a gummed up governor. It's buried in the tail housing so the whole trans has to come apart, I remember when I put mine together it was stressed that the piston in there should be absolutely free to move. If it won't move by just shaking it a little bit it's gummed up. Does this sound right olerodder? I don't want to send anyone on a wild goose chase. I'm going off of memory and mine isn't very good


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Old 08-31-2015, 12:37 AM   #60
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It has engine braking, but you wouldn't have to disassemble the whole transmission to get to it just take off the tail tail housing and it's on the tail shaft
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:56 AM   #61
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If there is no engine braking I believe that's a gummed up governor. It's buried in the tail housing so the whole trans has to come apart, I remember when I put mine together it was stressed that the piston in there should be absolutely free to move. If it won't move by just shaking it a little bit it's gummed up. Does this sound right olerodder? I don't want to send anyone on a wild goose chase. I'm going off of memory and mine isn't very good


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I'm not sure the governor would be causing any slippage though. If the motor did not allow the engine to brake in 1st or 2nd then yes this could be an area to explore.........since it doesn't I'm just not sure this a direction to go.
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Old 08-31-2015, 08:58 AM   #62
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It has engine braking, but you wouldn't have to disassemble the whole transmission to get to it just take off the tail tail housing and it's on the tail shaft
I assume that when you refurbished the trans you replaced the intermediate band servo piston seals....all of them?
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Old 08-31-2015, 01:26 PM   #63
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I assume that when you refurbished the trans you replaced the intermediate band servo piston seals....all of them?

Correct everything has been replaced with new parts
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Old 09-01-2015, 05:40 PM   #64
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I can slide from the back? I thought it was on splines, that saves a whole lot of work


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Old 09-01-2015, 06:25 PM   #65
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Well I guess depends what's wrong with it. The valve it self, at least on mine has 4 bolts securing it to the output shaft. But if you need to replace it all then yes to take the shaft out you need to disassemble the whole thing
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Old 09-01-2015, 06:44 PM   #66
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Hahaha ok so I haven't completely lost it..... I know it's a dumb question but what does the fluid look like? It has to be red hot to get an accurate level reading. I take mine on a 10 or so mile hard drive and it always surprises me how much the fluid expands


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Old 09-02-2015, 11:56 AM   #67
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Fluid is brand new less than 10mi on it. In going to order a servo today. Hopefully it fixes it
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Old 09-02-2015, 12:07 PM   #68
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Fluid is brand new less than 10mi on it. In going to order a servo today. Hopefully it fixes it
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Old 09-02-2015, 04:46 PM   #69
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Best of luck, hopefully that does it


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Old 09-02-2015, 06:48 PM   #70
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Fluid is brand new less than 10mi on it. In going to order a servo today. Hopefully it fixes it
Sorry for not responding as I've been burning the midnight oil building two motors.
I am hoping you did not replace the servo with the stock "A" servo and at least either got the truck servo or "C".....although the "R" servo may help more with the flare problem you are continuing to have. I think the "H" servo might have shifted a little harder than would care for.
I will PM you my email address as I get that on my phone and respond quicker.
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