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Old 08-09-2015, 08:47 PM   #36
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And sorry I meant argon. My bad
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Old 08-09-2015, 11:55 PM   #37
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The roller on your Lincoln might have two sides, you'll have to turn the roller over to feed properly, or it will skip and jerk. And don't forget to switch the anode from + to - (or the other way around), or it won't weld properly. I learned both of these the hard way. Good luck!
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Old 08-10-2015, 12:07 AM   #38
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I used to have a Miller 160 and I had to reverse the wheel when I went to smaller diameter wire with shielding gas..........70/30, Argon C02.
Learned how to weld making a frame jig and watching a video tape I bought on Ebay some 25 years ago. As they say, practice makes perfect...or really good.
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Old 08-15-2015, 05:53 PM   #39
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Ended up buying a Lincoln 140 this weekend. Not a whole lot of updates as I haven't had a lot of time to work. Did get my drivers side floor pan in and played around with getting my welder working properly with gas. I noticed that it is a LOT easier to grind the slag off. Click image for larger version

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Old 08-15-2015, 07:03 PM   #40
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Nice welder and I'm sure you will find it easier to use with the shielding gas.
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Old 08-17-2015, 04:51 AM   #41
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Looks similar to my welding setup, it should serve you well. The one piece of advice I would have given myself is to not wear sneakers to weld. I used an old ratty pair as my garage shoes, which was fine until a nice fat piece of spatter went right through the top of the shoe, burned through my sock and stopped right between two of my toes.

Also, try to make clean welds...it sounds obvious, but your penance for blobby welds is spending time and materials grinding them all down. If you've got some scrap, it's worth your time to dial in your technique on something you can throw away before you spend all those hours grinding on your car. Just my $0.02 from my learning experiences for what it's worth.
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Old 08-22-2015, 04:33 PM   #42
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Been a little busy so I didn't get a whole lot done so far this week, hoping to post another update tomorrow.

When I originally picked this car up the drivers side was a little off. Nothing major, the strut tower support was taken off, some wires moved, metal was loose. I'm starting to think I know why. I believe this car was either lightly wrecked, or fell off a jack stand while the wheel was off. I noticed the entire front support was dented in and had a terrible patch job done over it. It looks like they just piled metal on top of metal. Any thoughts? Click image for larger version

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You can see the big dip in the metal on the bottom and on the top where the strut rod connects is where the metal is all built up.


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Old 08-22-2015, 06:01 PM   #43
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To me that looks like it was hit early in its life and took all the paint off and then it rusted out. Then a poor patch was put on it
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Old 08-22-2015, 06:02 PM   #44
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To me that looks like it was hit early in its life and took all the paint off and then it rusted out. Then a poor patch was put on it

Not seeing anything on the underside that would indicate a patch panel. Just the giant dent.


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Old 08-22-2015, 09:12 PM   #45
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Ohhh I thought the ground down area was from a weld. Then yeah idk what could have caused that.
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Old 10-04-2015, 06:53 PM   #46
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Been awhile since I updated this thread. Sorry about that, hit the dreaded money wall.

So I got the rear end out of the car. Leaf springs were miserable to take out. Started cleaning the axle and tranny to get ready for paint. My neighbor who is a metal worker agreed to help us with body work and what not. Should have more pictures of that within the next month. I'll try and keep everyone updated. Click image for larger version

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Old 10-04-2015, 07:07 PM   #47
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Looking really good!
Cleaning up is sometimes the worst part of restoring a car...one thing that can make cleaning aluminum a little easier is using carburetor cleaner, like Gunk spray cleaner. It will take stains out of the aluminum and leave it looking almost brand new. I used to do this with transmission cases and aluminum intake manifolds that had been heavily stained...that way you don't have to use a steel/brass brush on it and make the aluminum kind of shinny....just a tip.
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Old 10-04-2015, 07:14 PM   #48
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Looking really good!

Cleaning up is sometimes the worst part of restoring a car...one thing that can make cleaning aluminum a little easier is using carburetor cleaner, like Gunk spray cleaner. It will take stains out of the aluminum and leave it looking almost brand new. I used to do this with transmission cases and aluminum intake manifolds that had been heavily stained...that way you don't have to use a steel/brass brush on it and make the aluminum kind of shinny....just a tip.

Went through a few bottles of carb cleaner! Haha. Been using that, Purple Power, and Krud Kutter. All work well. Then a power washer to clean it up a bit.


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Old 10-06-2015, 01:36 AM   #49
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^ I'm having flashbacks of cleaning (then painting) the bellhousing for my '69 Camaro resto project. Cleaning away decades of crud stinks.
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Old 10-06-2015, 09:36 AM   #50
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The only non-Ford car I've restored was a "real" Protect-O-Plate 68 Z28 with plenum aircleaner and factory equipped tube headers.
I put the 69 hood on because I always liked the look...the stock hood went with the car.
One of the last cars I totally restored myself...criteria 1979.
The car is now in Sweden.
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Old 10-06-2015, 10:46 AM   #51
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Purple power and a pressure washer were my best friend when I was cleaning up the 45 years of caked in grease and oil
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:13 PM   #52
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Look up how to make a sand blaster. Its actually really easy to make a viable sand blaster-- then you stuff can look brand new! Just use good judgement about where you spray sand

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

This is a really cool project by the way! Looks like there could be a lot of fun mixed in with the work
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Old 10-10-2015, 07:28 AM   #53
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Look up how to make a sand blaster. Its actually really easy to make a viable sand blaster-- then you stuff can look brand new! Just use good judgement about where you spray sand

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

This is a really cool project by the way! Looks like there could be a lot of fun mixed in with the work

Just remember when using sand, the sand gets everywhere. And I mean everywhere. And they aren't horribly expensive to buy, it's well worth it in my book. Also keep an eye open at farm auctions for bargains!


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Old 10-10-2015, 07:36 AM   #54
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72 Mach 1 Restoration.

Double post. Thanks Verizon!
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Old 10-11-2015, 03:35 PM   #55
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Look up how to make a sand blaster. Its actually really easy to make a viable sand blaster-- then you stuff can look brand new! Just use good judgement about where you spray sand

---------- Post added at 12:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:12 PM ----------

This is a really cool project by the way! Looks like there could be a lot of fun mixed in with the work

This is a lot of fun, stressful at times but overall a blast. A lot of sweat and blood haha. My dad and I have learned a lot of dos and donts so far. But so far so good!


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Old 10-11-2015, 03:39 PM   #56
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To everyone who mentioned a sandblaster. I do have access to one. We sandblasted the front end before putting a temporary primer on it. I'm trying to get as much gunk off it before sandblasting it later on. But its definitely in the future!

Finally made some more progress. Got the last leaf spring off. The bolt was basically melded to the rubber on the front and was seized. We used a grinder and sliced it off.

Then we removed the trunk pan...man, looks like I'll most likely need all 4 parts of the wheel wells instead of just the outer drivers side. I'll have the guy doing metal work take a look at it and let me know. We then "mached" up the rear just for fun. Baby steps! Click image for larger version

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Old 10-11-2015, 07:37 PM   #57
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Looking good. I went the sandblasting route at first and like everyone else has said it is a mess. A really BIG mess. Add to the fact that the sand gets everywhere and is a PITA to get off the car.

After that, I found that the easiest and most efficient way was a grinder with a wire wheel. I thought it did a pretty good job.


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Old 10-11-2015, 07:40 PM   #58
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Good luck with the wheel wells too. I'm so glad my inners were okay. Those are a pain in the butt even with half of the quarters cut off. Be sure to take plenty pics when you get that far.


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Old 10-11-2015, 07:42 PM   #59
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Good luck with the wheel wells too. I'm so glad my inners were okay. Those are a pain in the butt even with half of the quarters cut off. Be sure to take plenty pics when you get that far.


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Lucky for me I probably won't end up doing them. My neighbor has done metal work since the 60s/70s and apparently worked on cars much worse than this. The guy is an incredibly metal worker so I'm letting him handle a lot of this. More experience will lend itself to a better overall job haha


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Old 10-11-2015, 07:48 PM   #60
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Awesome. He should be able to teach you quite a bit. Lot of work needs to be done in that trunk haha


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Old 10-11-2015, 07:50 PM   #61
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Awesome. He should be able to teach you quite a bit. Lot of work needs to be done in that trunk haha


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It's definitely the roughest spot haha


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Old 10-11-2015, 09:56 PM   #62
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overwhelming and awesome!
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Old 10-12-2015, 12:04 AM   #63
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The only non-Ford car I've restored was a "real" Protect-O-Plate 68 Z28
My dad still has the Protect-O-Plate and sales receipt for his '69 Camaro, which is numbers-matching.

OK, I'm done thread derailing.
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:42 AM   #64
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My dad still has the Protect-O-Plate and sales receipt for his '69 Camaro, which is numbers-matching.

OK, I'm done thread derailing.
Yes, a Protect-O-Plate is gold for a 67/69 Camaro and the only true way to document the car. Good for him!
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Old 10-12-2015, 10:44 AM   #65
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Awesome. He should be able to teach you quite a bit. Lot of work needs to be done in that trunk haha


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What trunk? Haha


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Old 10-12-2015, 12:57 PM   #66
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What trunk? Haha


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You raise a very good point haha


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Old 01-04-2016, 06:15 AM   #67
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Okay. Long time no update. Ran into a lot of issues that I needed to sort out. First off I had a big dispute with a company that I ordered the majority of my parts from. They cut out all communication, emails, and still have about $500 worth of parts. So I've been trying to figure out my best course of action there. Then of course I finally hit a money wall with everything I needed. Had some money saved up and bought a good chunk of parts while CJ had their end of the year sale.

I finally made the plunge and sliced out the rear quarters. One side had a terrible fiberglass repair and the other was rusted out at the bottom. Both wheel wells need pulled, and then we start reassembly. Pretty sure at this point the car is down to about 25% of what I started with haha.

Then last night I got a pleasant surprise. I started working on the instrument panel just to jeep busy. The plastic cover was pretty dirty and I was confident the gauge faces were gonna be trashed...but luckily the gauges were AMAZING. Aside from needing the needles repainted I should be in business. Only thing that needs work is the trip gauge. The painted numbers have all came off. Would anyone happen to have a suggestion on how to repair it? Where to buy a new one? Or where to send it off to get restored? I ended up cleaning the shell with some water, glass cleaner, and plastic buffing compound. About an hour later or so we had some promising results!

But thats where we stand. A lot of metal work to go still...but progress nonetheless.
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Old 01-04-2016, 12:10 PM   #68
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They make decals that can change the face colors like black to white from many places. Might be worth looking into.
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Old 01-04-2016, 10:45 PM   #69
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What parts depot/company were you using?


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Old 01-04-2016, 10:47 PM   #70
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What parts depot/company were you using?


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I was using Laurel Mtn. I'm now using CJ Pony. Their warehouse is about 90 minutes north of me so I can just drive up and never pay freight shipping for bigger items like the quarter skins!


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