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Old 01-12-2016, 08:59 PM   #1
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High output alternator and Ammeter

I am planning to install a 140A, single wire alternator on my '66 and have read that I need to bypass the ammeter. Would simply disconnecting the ammeter from the gauge cluster suffice or is more required? I'm installing a new wiring harness as well, and will not have the alternator harness installed as the alternator is a single wire unit.

Thanks in advance for the help!


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Old 01-12-2016, 10:33 PM   #2
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Are you getting an internally regulated alternator?

And what do you mean your getting a new harness?
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Old 01-13-2016, 05:38 AM   #3
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Yes, single wire, internally regulated.

I am installing a new wiring harness. Actually, I'm installing all new wiring from the dash forward, leaving only the tail light harness untouched


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Old 01-13-2016, 10:23 AM   #4
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Well then you really won't need to Un hook anything behind the dash all you'd need is to ground the alt and hook a power wire to the bat. And then as a volt meter if you want one.
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Old 01-13-2016, 02:38 PM   #5
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The problem with old analog ammeters is they are reading current through a shunt and the design maxes out if your 140 Amp alternator is full on. I'd either jumper the ammeter terminals with a solid heavy wire or replace it with an aftermarket OEM replacement ammeter that reads at least + 80 Amps during charging. With the stock ammeter jumped terminal to terminal the reading will stay at 0 or show a very low charge / discharge reading.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:26 AM   #6
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Well with the single wire Alts there's nothing hooked up to the volt regulator or amp meter circuit. I had the same on my car but upgraded the gauges shortly after too
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Old 01-14-2016, 10:17 AM   #7
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Well with the single wire Alts there's nothing hooked up to the volt regulator or amp meter circuit. I had the same on my car but upgraded the gauges shortly after too
With the modern alternator's output wire connected directly to the battery you're bypassing the ammeters shunt and not a problem. But to get a charge / discharge reading the ammeter has to be in the circuit between the alt and battery. What I don't like about a direct battery connection is you're bypassing a safety fuseable link in the stock wiring harness.
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Old 01-14-2016, 12:02 PM   #8
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With the modern alternator's output wire connected directly to the battery you're bypassing the ammeters shunt and not a problem. But to get a charge / discharge reading the ammeter has to be in the circuit between the alt and battery. What I don't like about a direct battery connection is you're bypassing a safety fuseable link in the stock wiring harness.

I ran mine though the starter solenoid with a fuseable link. Pretty sure my alt. Came with it too
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Old 01-15-2016, 01:33 PM   #9
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I ran mine though the starter solenoid with a fuseable link. Pretty sure my alt. Came with it too
Sounds good. I had a '67 & '70 and doubt if their alternators could keep up with a new Mustang's electrical appetite!
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Old 01-17-2016, 08:58 PM   #10
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I ran mine though the starter solenoid with a fuseable link. Pretty sure my alt. Came with it too

I'm running the alt wire through a 175 amp fuse before hitting the battery. I've decided to not connect the ammeter and just tape the wires behind the instrument panel. Plan is to install a new cluster with digital gauges in the near future


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