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Old 06-21-2016, 10:16 AM   #316
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Riding a bike to work is dedication to upgrading your Mustang!!!


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Old 06-21-2016, 03:58 PM   #317
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So nobody knows if I need to take the clutch pedal spring out?
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:08 PM   #318
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Not 100% sure, but you will probably need to leave the return spring so that the clutch pedal will return.
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Old 06-21-2016, 04:32 PM   #319
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You might not need a spring as stout as the original, but you do need one as stated above.


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Old 06-22-2016, 10:07 AM   #320
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I have received everything!
I've drilled the needed holes in my firewall, I've done dry mount, adjustings, dry mount, adjustings, dry mount, adjustings...
Starts looking pretty good!
in the instruction sent with the kit they say nothing about removing the spring, so I assume it's to be kept.
the master cylinder fits perfectly with my SSBC brake booster
I made sure I could still reach the bolts once everything in place.
only one brake line was is my way, but I didn't need to move it a lot.
the only problem now is to find out where to fit the fluid bottle. With the brake booster it doesn't fit on Mcleod's bracket. That will be for tonight.

Actually it seems possible that I finish the master cylinder install before friday... so I might have my car back on the road this weekend!
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Old 06-23-2016, 01:30 PM   #321
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I had skipped a line: YES I do need to remove the spring...
how can I remove it???
as for the moment I found no way, I'm thinking of cutting it.

Finaly the McLeod kit is not really plug & play: the MC rod was touching the McLeod bracket... I had to spend like a half hour with a file to get things nicer. For the support bracket on the pedal, the bolt included in the kit was too small, I had to find a bigger one and modify it. Same for the second bolt to link the pedal to the bracket: it was not satisfying me, I had to find another one.

So...
I'm still not finished! So I can't plan to take the car to the garage tomorrow morning as I'm not 100% sure I will have time tonight to but everything back together and bleed the brakes. Too bad, the throwout bearing will wait until monday.
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Old 06-23-2016, 03:25 PM   #322
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I've never worked on a manual so just spit balling here, but could you disconnect the clutch petal at the pivot to remove the spring? Or have some press the clutch and use some zip ties to keep it compressed?
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Old 06-23-2016, 04:49 PM   #323
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To take it out properly, I'd need to drop the complete pedal assembly...
I borrowed a cutting disc to put on my drill, I'm gonna try to cut it!
butcher mode!
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Old 06-23-2016, 05:11 PM   #324
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
To take it out properly, I'd need to drop the complete pedal assembly...
I borrowed a cutting disc to put on my drill, I'm gonna try to cut it!
butcher mode!

Keep fingers away!
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Old 06-23-2016, 06:41 PM   #325
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Personally I'd just take out the pedal assembly...I think that's what I did on my 66.

Replacing Ford Mustang Pedal Assemblies - Mustang Monthly Magazine
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Old 06-24-2016, 10:54 AM   #326
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really nice link!

Well, finally I didn't want to take out the pedal support: I plan to do that in a near future to clean it up and weld ball bearings from MustangSteeve.
So I've cut the spring to take it out... quick & dirty !

I have assembled everything last night : it was a nightmare !!!
DO NOT INSTALL that kit unless you have really good mechanical skills.
I ended up disasembling the rods and brakets of my booster to be able to find a possible work sequence.
But that's all done!
both master cylinders are in place. clutch MC is completely hidden, even if it's anodized red you don't see it!
Now I just need to find a good spot for the fluid reservoir.
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:13 AM   #327
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How about some pictures?
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Old 06-24-2016, 11:35 AM   #328
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will do...
I didn't take a lot while working, I just have one with of McLeod MC installed with no brake system.
I'll take some with everything : brake booster, brake double MC, clutch MC, prop valve... It's tight !
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:38 PM   #329
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here some pictures for you my favorite followers!


this is one of the dry mounts of the master cylinder, making sure there was clearance everywhere... the problems were mainly on the other side : between the rod and the hole on the braket and with my hole in the firewall.
you can see on this picture that I have a rag join on the bottom of my column ; it is now a U-join.


on this one you can see where I've installed the reservoir. I made a little braket between the support and the firewall today at work : just a piece of square tube 7/8 cut 45° on the sides to put self taping scews and there are 2 threded holes in front for the support. Yes, my wiring looks bad... not because of me. I have grinded a little bit around the cap to make it easier to grab.


as you can see on this one, it's a tight fitting! a nightmare to find the right mounting sequence.


no more room for fingers!
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Old 06-24-2016, 08:44 PM   #330
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some more:


my grinding around the cap


an overview... the invisible hydraulic conversion !
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Old 06-24-2016, 09:33 PM   #331
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Looks pretty good and it certainly is tight on the side by the master...nice bending on the brake lines!
On my 14 GT the master feed the brakes and the clutch...I changed it out with a separate reservoir for the clutch much like the one you just put in.
Thanks for the pictures.
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Old 06-30-2016, 07:46 PM   #332
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Hi guys!

Do you know what? I'm still riding my bicycle to work.


after installation at my mechanic's setting the play as recomanded and bleeding, it didn't fully disengaged the clutch. We had to do it all again. I have machined a little spacer ring a little bit thicker than one of the setting rings furnished to get it to work.
Then it worked great !
But after going around the block twice... BAM! pedal to the ground and a leak at the throwout bearing.
I called McLeod, they're sending me for free a set of seals : I'll receive them hopefully on tuesday and we'll have to do it all over again.
GREAT!
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Old 06-30-2016, 08:18 PM   #333
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Working on hot rods is fun...and can be frustrating at the same time. Sometimes it takes more than one try to get it right....you will be an expert in hydraulic clutch systems soon....
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Old 07-06-2016, 09:01 AM   #334
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Wednesday morning news: still no seal set in my mail box.
:-/

maybe one day it will work...

So, now what's next on the project?
brakes : everything works, one day I might try to replace my master cylinder to get a better pedal feeling. A bigger piston would probably be more confortable.
Suspension : I have my rear QA1s to install, easy task.
Chassis : I wtb and weld GlobalWest sub frame connectors.
geometry : One day I'll order and install the GlobalWest UCA with built-in caster. I might go with roller perches in the same move.
interior : if I find a console for a decent price one day... otherwise I'm good.
rearend : I would like to rebuilt my 8" properly with proper parts. I've seen nice things at Curries but it seems that they don't go lower than 3.00 when I want 2.80 or lower...
Engine : it would be a good idea to start the engine project ! Now my goals are getting more precise, it would be time to start working.
Objectif now is around 350 hp.
- 302 roller block from Summit with 347 and cast iron heads?
- 302 roller block from Summit with 306 and good aluminum heads?
- find a period correct 289 block and rebuild with lots of goodies?
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Old 07-06-2016, 10:45 AM   #335
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Wednesday morning news: still no seal set in my mail box.
:-/

maybe one day it will work...

So, now what's next on the project?
brakes : everything works, one day I might try to replace my master cylinder to get a better pedal feeling. A bigger piston would probably be more confortable.
Suspension : I have my rear QA1s to install, easy task.
Chassis : I wtb and weld GlobalWest sub frame connectors.
geometry : One day I'll order and install the GlobalWest UCA with built-in caster. I might go with roller perches in the same move.
interior : if I find a console for a decent price one day... otherwise I'm good.
rearend : I would like to rebuilt my 8" properly with proper parts. I've seen nice things at Curries but it seems that they don't go lower than 3.00 when I want 2.80 or lower...
Engine : it would be a good idea to start the engine project ! Now my goals are getting more precise, it would be time to start working.
Objectif now is around 350 hp.
- 302 roller block from Summit with 347 and cast iron heads?
- 302 roller block from Summit with 306 and good aluminum heads?
- find a period correct 289 block and rebuild with lots of goodies?
Sounds like a plan. But I don't understand why you want 350HP and subframes, then go with such a low rear end ratio?
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:40 AM   #336
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Sounds like a plan. But I don't understand why you want 350HP and subframes, then go with such a low rear end ratio?
My project is a multipurpose fun classic. Back roads cornering as well as cruising.
I have a top loader close ratio. my 4th speed is a 1:1 ratio... so I have no overdrive.
With my 2.80, I'm driving 80 at 3000 rpm. That is correct but I can't really go shorter for European roads (my future use of my car)
Subframes are to protect the car, to avoid torsion when cornering. Oldies deserve that kind of things to age correctly.

What's your thought Aggiesrok ?
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:23 PM   #337
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What tire size are you running?
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:25 PM   #338
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3.25 would bump you up to about 3,500 rpm at 80. But would make a big difference in acceleration.
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Old 07-06-2016, 12:56 PM   #339
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3.25 would bump you up to about 3,500 rpm at 80. But would make a big difference in acceleration.
I ride on 225/60/15.
Yes, it doesn't make a hudge difference... But I will ship this car with me to Europe and over seas we drive way faster than here, the speed limit on highways is 130km/h which is around 80/82mph, so gas mileage will suffer of these 500 extra mph.
most people drive 90 on the highway.
On back roads, I normaly drive around 70.
hard to find the right compromise for my project.
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Old 07-06-2016, 02:24 PM   #340
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Money is always a factor. But it would probably be a wise investment to go with a 5 sp trans if you could swing it. Then you could put 3.55's in it. Are you going to stay with 15's or go 17 with a lower profile tire?
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Old 07-06-2016, 04:09 PM   #341
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Money is always a factor. But it would probably be a wise investment to go with a 5 sp trans if you could swing it. Then you could put 3.55's in it. Are you going to stay with 15's or go 17 with a lower profile tire?
I just had my toploader rebuilt and I just bought these 15" wheels.
My goal is to have a classic looking car, not a restomod style.
instead of the original 3 speed, my 4 speed is already a good upgrade!
And anyway, with 17s and low profile, I would have the same wheel diameter so it wouldn't change my end ratio.
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:30 PM   #342
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500rpm is going to make almost no difference in fuel economy...the fun factor in driving is going to be limited expect when you are on the autoroute...although I haven't driven on a lot of back roads in France for a long time I don't think I'd be willing to push it that hard...you have some of the most beautiful scenery on those back roads of anywhere in the world....why would you want to race between villages?
You are taking 50 year old technology and expecting to keep up with new cars...I don't think that is reasonable to expect of your car in mostly stock configuration.
In my 66GT/K Mustang I had the close ration 4spd and 3:50's in the 9" and the car was a blast to drive....kind of like my 64-1/2 Comet with 289HiPro, 4spd and 4:56 gears...If you build the motor as we discussed earlier running at 3,500rpm should be a piece of cake. Also, 2.80's in town will leave you a sitting duck for some BMW 2 series to smoke you from stop light to stop light.
Or, if you want to keep everything as stock as possible put one of these in the car...you could actually make the stock 4spd into an 8spd.
Gear Vendors under/overdrive auxiliary transmissions, Ford 2-Wheel Drive 4, 5 and 6 Speed Manual Transmissions.
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Old 07-06-2016, 11:34 PM   #343
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I almost forgot...be sure you put in the frame connectors as anyone who is not familiar with European roads will understand once they have driven on them. The T5 export Mustangs had the convertible brace along with the sturdier tower brace..the original ones had all 4 bolts evenly spaced on the cowl plus a cowl support brace welded in.
I've only had a chance to see one "real deal" T5 and that was in Europe in the mid 80's.
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Old 07-08-2016, 12:00 PM   #344
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About sub frame connectors, do you think Global West connectors can be installed on my car with the scott Drake traction bars?

For my clutch : that's it !
Finally it works. What a change, it's great!

Concerning the evolution of my front suspension :
I found good looking rollerized saddles on E-bay sold by "Tommyzees"... 200$ for the pair, looks good...
For the UCA, the GlobalWest ones (with +3 caster built in) seem to be the best product.
For lower control arm and strut rod, I found interesting products at "pacificthunderperformance.com"...
What do you think of these ideas?
Global West or TCP products are so expensive!
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Old 07-08-2016, 01:45 PM   #345
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About sub frame connectors, do you think Global West connectors can be installed on my car with the scott Drake traction bars?

For my clutch : that's it !
Finally it works. What a change, it's great!

Concerning the evolution of my front suspension :
I found good looking rollerized saddles on E-bay sold by "Tommyzees"... 200$ for the pair, looks good...
For the UCA, the GlobalWest ones (with +3 caster built in) seem to be the best product.
For lower control arm and strut rod, I found interesting products at "pacificthunderperformance.com"...
What do you think of these ideas?
Global West or TCP products are so expensive!
Cool, glad the clutch is now history!
Yes, the rollerized saddles do help as I had them on my drag Maverick and it does help free up the front suspension.
I'd call Global West and ask them about fitting them with the Scott Drake traction bars...I'm sure they would know or at least give you dimensions so you could determine if they will fit.
I had never heard of this Pacific Performance before and after looking at their products...just my opinion....I wouldn't put them on my car....I'd pass.
I have enclosed the pictures of the Global West strut bars and LCA's I put into the Maverick...I wouldn't have trusted anyone else's products to be a sub 10 second drag car as they are engineered to take abuse ulike the others that are just standard Chinese stamped stock units with gussests welded in...IMHO
There is a reason why Global West is expensive...their products are extremely well engineered...well executed and well built with quality materials. The Global west LCA's have screw in ball joints and since I have used their products for years I wouldn't go anywhere else....buying cheap suspension components is a receipt for disaster.....IMO
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Old 07-08-2016, 03:46 PM   #346
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I sent an E-mail to Global West to know what they think of my traction bars.

For the lower arm and struts, of course your Global West parts are awesome, you've got 1000$ on your picture!

Of course for a drag racer or other racing purposes I wouldn't hesitate; I was just wondering if there was no intermediate products between 50$ OEM style parts and 500$ racing parts.
Same for the strut rods... 100$ for OEM style and 500$ for racing parts?
UCA + lower arm + strut rod + roller saddles + bump steer kit + geometry setting... 2k.
seems at lot to me, but I understand your advise.
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Old 07-08-2016, 05:23 PM   #347
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I got roller saddles form mustangs plus for around 200$ I believe. Only concern was there isn't a way to greases them, don't know if it's better or worse. I don't think I could justify spending 1000$ on control arms and strut rods after my set up. Not to sound all cocky or anything but for what my car is it handles pretty good. I can really push it through corners and have little roll and spot on steering and no over/under steer with stock control arms and strut rods. And just Polly bushings and roller saddles. My biggest improvement was a rear sway bar. I think 1000$ would go farther on rear disks or towards an engine build. Although I do only have a 6, not sure how much the weight of a v8 would effect my setup
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Old 07-08-2016, 06:01 PM   #348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I sent an E-mail to Global West to know what they think of my traction bars.

For the lower arm and struts, of course your Global West parts are awesome, you've got 1000$ on your picture!

Of course for a drag racer or other racing purposes I wouldn't hesitate; I was just wondering if there was no intermediate products between 50$ OEM style parts and 500$ racing parts.
Same for the strut rods... 100$ for OEM style and 500$ for racing parts?
UCA + lower arm + strut rod + roller saddles + bump steer kit + geometry setting... 2k.
seems at lot to me, but I understand your advise.
The parts pictured cost $800...sure you can buy cheap stuff for half the price..if that's what you want then by all means go ahead, it's your money not mine.
Being an engineer for some 45+ years the one thing I look at first is designing something that will exceed the purpose...most of the time usually by 20% more than failure...the same thing I've done for 50+ years when building hot rods, drag race cars and road racing cars...some people call it crazy, overbuilding, wasting money...I call it being safe not only for myself and passengers but also for the other people on the road around me..in all my years of racing and building I've never had a part fail, ever!
I've seen people killed on the autobahn...the reason that Germany had 36 helicopters stationed along the Autobahn from North to South...it's about the "Golden Hour" although that was almost 25 years ago, and I'm sure not much has changed.
Enough lecturing....it's your car and your money....do what you want.
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:29 PM   #349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyoung68 View Post
I got roller saddles form mustangs plus for around 200$ I believe. Only concern was there isn't a way to greases them, don't know if it's better or worse. I don't think I could justify spending 1000$ on control arms and strut rods after my set up. Not to sound all cocky or anything but for what my car is it handles pretty good. I can really push it through corners and have little roll and spot on steering and no over/under steer with stock control arms and strut rods. And just Polly bushings and roller saddles. My biggest improvement was a rear sway bar. I think 1000$ would go farther on rear disks or towards an engine build. Although I do only have a 6, not sure how much the weight of a v8 would effect my setup
The bearings in the rollerized spring perches are sealed so no need for lubrication...and they are replaceable.
65 73 Mustang Roller Bearing Spring Perches | eBay are the ones I have used.
For a Mustang that is mostly stock and driven in a spirited manner I would agree that spending this kind of money is up to the individual although using the complete Global West front end w/coilovers is pretty expensive...at that point I would think about using Rod&Custom Motorsports complete front end conversion which is not much more...just requires a lot of labor to put it in and when you are done you would have a totally modern and up-to-date front suspension that would be second to none...just depends on how deep your pockets are...
65 73 Mustang Roller Bearing Spring Perches | eBay
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Old 07-08-2016, 09:36 PM   #350
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This is what I meant to put for Rod&Custom;

RC-107 Adjustable Ride Height Coilover Conversion Package. - Rod and Custom Motorsports, Inc.
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