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Old 07-08-2016, 09:39 PM   #351
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I'm making a price compare chart for GW parts...

For the strut rods, they have 2 choices : for original or Dynacorn parts.
the dynacorn part seem to be thicker so it makes the fitting narrower.
I have no clue if my supports have been replaced... If I measure or take pictures could one of you tell me?
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Old 07-09-2016, 11:20 AM   #352
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Unless your car was in a bad accident the strut rod frame bracket which is welded to the frame under the radiator has probably never been replaced. If it were replaced you would be able to see that as they would have had to cut the frame and weld it back together. The one you want is the ASR4 strut rod, not the Dynacorn. Since I have nothing to reference if I were you i'd measure both strut rod frame mounts...the width...call Global West and ask them although I'm fairly certain yours should be stock.
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Old 07-09-2016, 07:55 PM   #353
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I did the RC-106. Awesome package


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Old 07-11-2016, 02:49 PM   #354
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About sub frame connectors, do you think Global West connectors can be installed on my car with the scott Drake traction bars?

For my clutch : that's it !
Finally it works. What a change, it's great!

Concerning the evolution of my front suspension :
I found good looking rollerized saddles on E-bay sold by "Tommyzees"... 200$ for the pair, looks good...
For the UCA, the GlobalWest ones (with +3 caster built in) seem to be the best product.
For lower control arm and strut rod, I found interesting products at "pacificthunderperformance.com"...
What do you think of these ideas?
Global West or TCP products are so expensive!
Since you want the car to be more handling oriented, here is another option for parts that will empty your wallet.
http://www.maierracing.com/

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Old 07-12-2016, 09:57 AM   #355
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On my McLeod kit there are several positions to install the MC rod to the pedal. After trying'em all, I think I've found my comfortable settings: this clutch is now smooth with a good feeling. So even if it was not as easy as planned, I would recomand this kit.


Next operation : I've decided to proceed by steps. I'm waiting for:
- GW subframe connectors
- GW UCA +3° caster
- rollerized saddles from E-bay
- QA1 ajustable shocks
- hood pins (ScottDrake "deluxe", the ones with the rusty cables)

because really, I feel my steering too soft and kind of floating... I actually have 2,25° caster, I think it's not enough and I hope that these GW uca will improve that. I'll see for lower arms and struts later.

And everyday I'm scared by my hood that I see flapping when I run 80. Sometimes I stop on the side of the road to make sure it's well shut but it is.
=> hood pins !

GW answered my question about subframe connectors and traction bars : no problem.
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Old 07-12-2016, 12:07 PM   #356
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Personally I think optimum caster for the 65/66 Mustangs is between +2.0 and +3.5 degrees.
One thing about the adjustable strut rods is that they can help you get there from where you are now. When you up caster with the adjustable strut rods you want to get the maximum by adding shims to the stock setup, then with the adjustable strut rods you take it to where you want. One thing to keep in mind is that you want no more difference between the left and right caster to be 0.25 degrees.
I'm not saying the GW UCA's are not the way to go because in my opinion they are really the ultimate upgrade for a stock type suspension.
So, if you can get +3.0 to +3.5 degrees caster you should try -.5 to 0 degrees of camber with about 1/16" to 1/8" toe. Just my opinion.
I can't help but think something is not right with the hood flapping at 80mph...I don't ever remember mine flapping until well past 100mph...although that could have been caused by all new OEM sheet metal up front...early Mustang hoods do have a habit of bending slightly especially after decades of bad adjustment.
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:43 AM   #357
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Playing around while waiting for parts, I have 3 little issues with my car:

1- power steering : it often whistle when the steering wheel has no effort on. As for example when I'm at the red light...
Do you know what could be responsible?

2- AC belt : I have done my best to align the pulleys, on this same belt I have Crank + WP + PS + AC. When the AC clutch engages at Idle the belt screams... I've tryed to tight the belt but it comes back after a few days.
It seams that the belt swists just a tiny bit in the WP pulley groove, I don't really like it.

3- heat! last night I was driving wearing shorts, no AC, all windows opened... I had air around 100F in my feet !
Where is that coming from? my water bypass is closed.
Is that just my exhaust heating up everything?
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Old 07-13-2016, 12:31 PM   #358
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Playing around while waiting for parts, I have 3 little issues with my car:

1- power steering : it often whistle when the steering wheel has no effort on. As for example when I'm at the red light...
Do you know what could be responsible?

A whistle usually means a vacuum leak. Are all of the connections on the pump tight? When the motor is running and in neutral are the belts in-line and no wobble in the pulleys? What noise does it make just sitting in the driveway and turning the wheel from lock to lock?

2- AC belt : I have done my best to align the pulleys, on this same belt I have Crank + WP + PS + AC. When the AC clutch engages at Idle the belt screams... I've tryed to tight the belt but it comes back after a few days.
It seams that the belt swists just a tiny bit in the WP pulley groove, I don't really like it.

Again, while the motor is running do all of the pulleys line up with no run out?
Have you tried cleaning all of the pulleys with a spray brake cleaner and giving them a good wire brushing? How old is the belt? If you are experiencing the belt being tight and then a few days later it gets loose...either the belt is stretching meaning it's old or you need to use locktite on the threads when you tighten the belt. The only other thing is the clutch on the compressor....what noise does the compressor make when it's off and what noise does it make when it's on...the motor running and in neutral.

3- heat! last night I was driving wearing shorts, no AC, all windows opened... I had air around 100F in my feet !
Where is that coming from? my water bypass is closed.
Is that just my exhaust heating up everything?
It's the small engine bay and most likely the heat is coming from your uncoated headers...this is what ceramic coating does best...keeps the heat in the exhaust system rather than letting it out. I'd get some thermal material and put it under the carpet...you could put it under the car although it's not meant to be in the weather. The other thing if you have the room is to make a sheet metal shield and attach it between the header and floor board.
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Old 07-13-2016, 03:21 PM   #359
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1- power steering :
Quote:
A whistle usually means a vacuum leak. Are all of the connections on the pump tight? When the motor is running and in neutral are the belts in-line and no wobble in the pulleys? What noise does it make just sitting in the driveway and turning the wheel from lock to lock?
Leak? No external leak detected. I’ll check again tonight. I believe that you are talking about leaks on the high pressure side, not on the return.

When I turn from lock to lock, the noise it totally normal: I can hear it but nothing special.
Just the usual noise that any power steering makes when you force on a lock.
When I don’t touch the steering wheel it makes some noise. But not all the time.
As soon as I touch the steering wheel and put a tiny bit of pressure the noise is gone.

2- AC belt :
Quote:
Again, while the motor is running do all of the pulleys line up with no run out?
Have you tried cleaning all of the pulleys with a spray brake cleaner and giving them a good wire brushing? How old is the belt? If you are experiencing the belt being tight and then a few days later it gets loose...either the belt is stretching meaning it's old or you need to use locktite on the threads when you tighten the belt. The only other thing is the clutch on the compressor....what noise does the compressor make when it's off and what noise does it make when it's on...the motor running and in neutral.


Pulleys lined up? Not laser checked but doesn’t look that bad…
Clean pulleys? Haha! You’ve got me! No, I didn’t clean them. I guess I should, that can’t do any bad. 2 out the 4 pulley involved are new.
Age of the belt? No, Belt can’t be involved, it’s one month old.
AC clutch : when AC is off, no belt whistling: no noise. When I turn the AC on, the belt starts slipping somewhere.
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Old 07-13-2016, 07:14 PM   #360
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I just received my UCAs... Wonderful parts!

I'm wondering how I'm gonna install them: I've already done a small "Shelby drop" of 1" but the GW template is a 1-3/8 drop...
Keep my drop or drill 2 new holes and make little metal staps to bolt on the original upper holes from inside?

And the UCA comes with a thick 3/8 spacer... I guess it's to be installed.

I've also received the subframe connectors: that will probably be the only remaining part of this car in 200 years!
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Old 07-13-2016, 09:27 PM   #361
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About my pulleys:
I've noticed weird stuff, the WP grooves and the crank grooves don't line up perfectly!
They do for the 1st one (engine side), they don't on the 2nd one!
:-/
So I might have to replace them...
Oh, and I have 3 bolts on the crank pulley. Up to what year is it 3 bolts?
My crank pulley has 3 grooves: 2 "normal" ones and a bigger one.

As I have 2 grooves on my AC pulley, I was wondering if I wouldn't try a belt Alt-Crank-AC plus a belt Crank-WP-PS... or even double the AC belt keeping it also on the 2nd.
For the moment I've managed to re-align a bit my AC and re-tight the belt: belt doesn't scream anymore.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:36 PM   #362
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About my pulleys:
I've noticed weird stuff, the WP grooves and the crank grooves don't line up perfectly!
They do for the 1st one (engine side), they don't on the 2nd one!
:-/
So I might have to replace them...
Oh, and I have 3 bolts on the crank pulley. Up to what year is it 3 bolts?

Cars changed from 3 to 4 bolt in 1969 and for trucks I think it was 1976...but not totally sure on the truck.

My crank pulley has 3 grooves: 2 "normal" ones and a bigger one.

As I have 2 grooves on my AC pulley, I was wondering if I wouldn't try a belt Alt-Crank-AC plus a belt Crank-WP-PS... or even double the AC belt keeping it also on the 2nd.
For the moment I've managed to re-align a bit my AC and re-tight the belt: belt doesn't scream anymore.
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Old 07-13-2016, 11:50 PM   #363
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I just received my UCAs... Wonderful parts!

I'm wondering how I'm gonna install them: I've already done a small "Shelby drop" of 1" but the GW template is a 1-3/8 drop...
Keep my drop or drill 2 new holes and make little metal staps to bolt on the original upper holes from inside?
I'd give them a call and ask their opinon. When put mine on I already had the Shelby drop and just welded plugs in and ground them down.

And the UCA comes with a thick 3/8 spacer... I guess it's to be installed.
The spacer goes between the shock tower and the UCA..just spaces it out so it won't hit the tower.
I've also received the subframe connectors: that will probably be the only remaining part of this car in 200 years!
Pictures! Pictures! Pictures!
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Old 07-14-2016, 09:42 AM   #364
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Where can my find the engine numbers?
I was told the engine was a 71 mustang 302 but with 3 bolts that's apparently not...


By magic, my PS doesn't make screaming noise anymore.
but it's been replaced by a little ticking that I believe comes from the Saginaw style PS pump... wait & see.

Pictures? of what? just new parts in my living room?
I'll take pictures of my belts issues.
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Old 07-20-2016, 09:52 PM   #366
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question about Shelby drop.

After long research on the net, I had found tons of pages about how to perform a Shelby drop. Most pages tells the same story : the real drop that Shelby (or Armin) was doing was more than 1", almost 2 maybe... BUT, they all say that with more than 1" drop, you get your ball join to work weird and that's not good. So to perform a Shelby drop you should not drop more than 1" unless you're using special parts.
OK, got it.
After that, I found the template : 1" drop strait for 67-68, 1" drop + 1/8 to the back on 64-66...
So I've made my template with 1/8" to the back.

All that story for what? because I'm surprised by the template that Global West sent me : they tell me to drop 1-3/8" strait.
there is no more 1/8" backwards?
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Old 07-20-2016, 10:46 PM   #367
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The kit I got came with a wedge to put between the ball joint and upper control arm to keep everything in proper angles. My were straight down. I think I'd you want a bit my camber then you can move it back a bit.
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Old 07-20-2016, 11:00 PM   #368
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I did my first Shelby drop back in the 70's and I used Tony Branda's template which was a 1" drop...the same as the original Shelby. A number of years ago I drove a real GT350 at Laguna Seca for the Historic Races...that car had and still has the original 1" drop performed by Shelby.
Now, as I mentioned before is that I would have hoped you call and talk with the guys at Global West because you can use your Shelby drop holes and mount the Global West UCA's...you just need to talk with the guys at GW and get the right instructions for setting up the caster camber....with that said it has been known for decades that the postion of the upper ball joint does not quite have the right geometry when you use the Shelby drop although I've seen Mustangs go for 10's or thousands of miles with the stock or new ball joints without failure.
The GW UCA did set the upper ball joint further back and at a slightly different angle to compensate for their 1-3/8" drop...so this should not be an issue with GW UCA's.
You can of course give them a call and discuss this which I would suggest anyway.
I think if you watch the video and most of this will be explained.
I think the internet is a great place for information and also misinformation..IMHO

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Old 07-25-2016, 12:00 PM   #369
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I drove 200 miles yesturday:
on my way from San Antonio to north Austin, I drove with AC on: my water temp was quite hight but stable (needle on the P of TEMP). I drove 2500rpm all the way.
On my way back at night, I drove with no AC: temp was way cooler, needle was on M, engine was happy, I drove 3000rpm super comfortable. At the end I got stuck in heavy trafic, 20 minutes for 2 miles : temp got up to P as when I drive with AC.

I have an aluminum 2 rows radiator from Scott Drake, a 6 rigid blade fan from Scott Drake (no shroud) and a cast iron water pump supposed to flow 20% more than the original.
Should I think about an electric fan? or would a shroud be enough to make a difference?

Another last point about my belts : I didn't have time to do anything about it yet, I still have my long belt Cr-WP-AC-PS acting weird... I think it's killing the belt. Now I'm at the point where I avoid using AC because I hear the belt screaming for 20 seconds when I put it on.
What would I have to do to replace my thin V-belt system to large flat modern belts?
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Old 07-25-2016, 01:23 PM   #370
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I think that a shroud will definitely help with the low speed cooling.

Do you have a fan clutch? Or is the fan "direct drive" straight off of the water pump?

Someone must make a pulley kit to convert your engine accessories to use a serpentine belt system.
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Old 07-25-2016, 06:12 PM   #371
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no fan clutch, 6 rigid blades (not a flex stuff), rigid mount, 1/2" from radiator.
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Old 07-26-2016, 02:49 AM   #372
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Agree, a shroud would be a huge help for cooling. If you wanted (like I did), an electric setup could help, but probably isn't necessary. The other thing to consider is that with variability in the sensors, "P" on your gauge might be okay...you don't know unless you actually measure it to get an idea of how hot that actually is.

They do make serpentine setups for just about everything out there. In my opinion, they tend to be overpriced for what they are and really just add complexity. Plus it's a single point of failure.
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Old 07-26-2016, 04:57 AM   #373
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You could add a pusher fan, I had to add one to mine to keep it from overheating in traffic. It's just a fan that go in front of the rad and pushes air through. I tried to have the electric fan but I didn't have room for a shroud plus fan so I just went with a flex fan and a pusher fan and I rarely get over 180* now.
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Old 08-31-2016, 06:29 PM   #374
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Hi guys!
I've got super busy these days and then internet problems... so I didn't keep you posted. But I haven't worked on my car.
So finaly I made my mind and ordered tubular lower control arms and strut rods from Global West!
I didn't install the upper ones yet... I will install everything at once with my bump steer kit and roller spring perches.


About the engine, it gets everyday a little bit worse...
now my engine shakes regurlarly (turns on 7?)
I thought again about bulding the 347 we discussed on a Summit checked block. But when I make my wishlist it gets to 7g without headers!
So I'm still not so sure that's the way I'll go.

A friend has a 289 block in good condition that I can have for a 6 pack: I'm wondering if I could make a good little engine rebuilding it with good aluminum heads... What do you think?
I kind of like the idea of installing back a 289 in my car... What would be needed to get 300hp with that block?
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:45 PM   #375
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I think you'll like the Global West parts and their quality is second to none.

Why do you say it will cost $7,000 to build the 347 motor. I think we could build a 347 stroker and make over 400hp for $5,000.
Please tell me why it would cost that much.
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:33 PM   #376
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750 bare block (summit)
1500 for a nice strocker rotary assembly
cam
heads
bolts & gaskets
push rods
rockers
chain
...

And what about ignition?
my distributor is old and apparently my car misfires.
I've replaced the finger, cap, wires and plugs 5000 miles ago and installed a cheap electronic pick-up to get rid of the points.
For my futur build I guess I'll go for another distributor?
maybe it's the time to buy it now!
what should I get?
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Old 09-02-2016, 05:07 PM   #377
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I like the 289 idea! And the price is certainly right if the core is in good shape.
You will be able to meet your horsepower goals with it, as well. Just use the same modifications that you would do on any small block engine.
I know that you like to stay with the factory look, but the GM HEI distributor is a simple, good performing, and reliable component.
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Old 09-04-2016, 10:09 PM   #378
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
750 bare block (summit)
1500 for a nice strocker rotary assembly
cam
heads
bolts & gaskets
push rods
rockers
chain
...

And what about ignition?
my distributor is old and apparently my car misfires.
I've replaced the finger, cap, wires and plugs 5000 miles ago and installed a cheap electronic pick-up to get rid of the points.
For my futur build I guess I'll go for another distributor?
maybe it's the time to buy it now!
what should I get?
You should call on this to find out what the price really is. The normal price is around $2k for the complete Edelbrock Top End Kit;

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...view/make/ford

This could save you a ton of money and would easily make 350hp with even a stock bottom end...although a stroker would be nice.

The Summit 302 block is just less than $800...if you were to get the free 289 block you are going to spend almost that much...hot tank/magnaflux then bore the cylinders then hone to your specs, line hone/install freeze plugs and oil galley plugs and put in new cam bearings and clearance the block for the stroker if you decide to go with a stroker...it's a toss up for me as you really can't tell the difference in a 289 and 302 block unless you tear it apart.
So, the only advantage to the 289 block is that you can have the machine shop bore and hone to each piston...this will give you a tighter motor and let dial in the rings...part of blueprinting...better fit means longevity and reliability.
You should check out that price from Summit though...sounds like a swinging deal.
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Old 09-08-2016, 05:58 PM   #379
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for now 3 or 4 days I have a bad misfire problem: the engine shakes bad and when I drive at low rpm it has like hiccups.

Wires and plugs are like 4 month old, distributor is original, points replaced by pertronix, finger and cap are 6 month old.

The weird thing is that the engine stops shaking when I unplug number 1 or number 6.
I've checked the plugs, they look really nice, maybe a little lean but ok and nice sparks.

If I turn my distributor anti clockwise a few degrees the shaking almost disappears.

Any idea for my investigation?
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:15 PM   #380
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Check that the firing order is correct on the spark plug wires.
Also, do you have a timing light to check the timing?

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Old 09-08-2016, 07:28 PM   #381
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After another look, my vacuum gage is lower than usual: it shakes between 16-17 when last month when not shaking it was close to 20.

After checking plugs and putting them back, I've tried again to pull wires one by one and finally it's on number 4 that I have no real change in rev...
I guess a valve might go wrong
:-/
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:40 PM   #382
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That is possible. Only a compression test will tell you if there is a problem with number 4.
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Old 09-08-2016, 07:50 PM   #383
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Id check the cap and rotor still if you haven't, they can corrode pretty quick. Also maybe try swapping plug wires around. That way you can check to see if it's a wire problem.
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Old 09-10-2016, 12:52 PM   #384
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Just to make sure that when you plug the vacuum gauge in you are going to "full intake vacuum source and not the side port on the Holley Carb as it is a timed port and not showing full vacuum...correct?
If the vacuum gauge was reading around 20 "at idle" and smooth...not jumping around...around 17 to 22 is pretty normal. If the gauge is below 22 and above 15 and is sporadic my guess would be a valve issue. If the needle is bouncing quickly between 22 and 17 I would say it is in the ignition, either plug wires, distributor cap, dwell, coil, or even plug gap...as long as this reading is the same all the time and not sporadic like the reading above I'd look to make sure all of these were in order.
If you have a friend or know of a shop that has a "leak-down gauge" this is a much more accurate device for the internal condition of the motor...more so than a vacuum gauge.
One other thing to think about is to hook the vacuum gauge up to the motor and secure it so you can see the gauge and actually take a drive under normal road conditions...record the settings with your camera and post it...or even hook it up and take some pictures and post them...that way we can see what it looks like rather than trying to explain it...just a thought.
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Old 09-10-2016, 06:20 PM   #385
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This may be relevant to this thread or not...and when the time comes I'll start a build thread...I've been asked to help build a vintage 310 cubic inch motor for a 69 Mustang Trans Am...we will need to be making around 600hp @ the crank with a single carb...the catch is we will have to be using OE parts or parts that meet OE specs...with maybe a little of Smokey Yunick's imagination... like block, crank, heads, cam, intake and carb...no aluminum heads or block. So within the next month we'll put together list of parts and start sourcing them...let the fun begin!?
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