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Old 01-08-2017, 04:49 PM   #526
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Brake lights also go thru the turn signal switch?
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Old 01-08-2017, 05:02 PM   #527
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This will explain it better than I can.
http://www.mustangandfords.com/how-t...trical-system/

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Old 01-08-2017, 07:08 PM   #528
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All right, tomorrow I'll have a look to the turn signal switch...
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Old 01-09-2017, 12:01 AM   #529
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For what it's worth I had a very similar problem on my 67. New turn signal switch didn't help, and all the grounds were good. Turns out I was looking to see where everything connected under the dash and got lucky. I happened to feel one wire that was pulled a little loose from the connector. Popped it back in and it solved everything.

Moral is, I would check all your wires as mentioned before throwing parts at it like I did. Good luck!
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:20 PM   #530
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I found the problem:
The turn signal switch is going stupid.
I've cleaned it all but it acts weird: if I push down the moving part with 2 fingers everything works perfectly!
Or if I play with the turn signal lever pulling it to the rear it works.
Damn! It's a Scott Drake switch that I've installed 6 month ago!
Is there on the market a GOOD product???
I'm mad!
Chinese stupid parts!
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Old 01-09-2017, 07:56 PM   #531
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I've had bad luck with Scott Drake electrical parts. It's all Chinese junk.


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Old 01-11-2017, 12:02 AM   #532
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Hey, today I took out my old tiny patriot style 3Ys headers!
They came out super easy... except that I had to unplug both power steering hoses and AC hoses (I had planed that and didn't refill it after the engine rebuild).
Than I started installing my new Doug's 3Ys on the passenger side.
Took time, I had to trim both big screws from the Global West UCA. Why do the make them so long?
On the driver side the header is a little more tricky to slip in place. I think I'll have to trim the UCA screws on this side too... and I'm concerned about an angle of the Borgeson power steering box that might interfere.
I'll keep you guys up to date!
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Old 01-11-2017, 12:13 AM   #533
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Don't be afraid to knock a dent or two into the headers if you need to for clearance. It won't affect the performance at all.
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Old 01-11-2017, 07:39 AM   #534
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very nice man, interested to see how it goes!
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Old 01-11-2017, 10:12 AM   #535
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I can't wait to finish the install!!!
Then I'm building a 2.5" H pipe and installing 2.5" MagnaFlows.
The rear tubes will stay in 2" untill I drill the GT holes in my rear valence.
I'm also welding a bong for the O2 sensor... soon I'll be able to set my carb!
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:47 PM   #536
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All good: headers are installed!
I had to do 2 dents on the driver side:
One small for the Borgeson steering box and one larger but not deep, just flat area to clear the shock tower...

I'm surprised I had problems with a shock tower, I bought Doug's because I assumed it was a serious company and that these headers are designed for 65-66 mustangs...
Well now they're on so I can relax.
Tomorrow it's H-pipe / O2 sensor bong / mufflers.

And now I'm decided: I want a T5 with 0.63od and 3.5 ratio.
New or used T5 is an open question.
New complete Currie 8" pumpkin or building an 8.8 or 9" is the second open question...
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Old 01-12-2017, 09:50 PM   #537
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And then what else?
A windshield
Solving my belt constant issues
and certainly a 4 rows radiator and the project will be finished.
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Old 01-13-2017, 12:11 PM   #538
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The only headers that fit perfect are the ones you make yourself...very few "off the shelf" headers do.
These are the people I'd go to...you only need to buy some of the parts and not a whole conversion kit...I'd make sure you have everything you need laying on the floor before you start...running here and there for parts is a pain.
If I were in your shoes I get a new or rebuilt T5 unless you want to rebuild a used T5 yourself.
Again, if you get a 3rd member from Currie I'd go with 31 spline axles also...they aren't that much and are 30% stronger than your 28 spline...well used axles.
Then again, it's your money so choose wisely and get this project finished so you can go out and drive it.
As for a radiator, go to Ebay and get a Champion 4 row aluminum one, I've had two on my race cars and many friends have purchased them also without issues.
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Old 01-13-2017, 03:51 PM   #539
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I called the guys at Currie and they told me to get rid of my 8" unless I have an inline 6.
They also told me I needed the big bearings to drive safely on the highway because the small bearings were just good for 65mph... they spin too fast over that.
So I guess I'm now looking for a 9" 31 splines with axlesand drum brakes... and I'll buy a Currie pumpkin with 3.5 truetrac
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Old 01-13-2017, 04:48 PM   #540
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And you know what?
Doug's headers are AMAZING!!!
The engine roars like a beast!!!
I feel like the AFR heads got unleashed!
(Still with my 2" pipes and old 40 series)
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Old 01-13-2017, 05:27 PM   #541
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I called the guys at Currie and they told me to get rid of my 8" unless I have an inline 6.
They also told me I needed the big bearings to drive safely on the highway because the small bearings were just good for 65mph... they spin too fast over that.
So I guess I'm now looking for a 9" 31 splines with axlesand drum brakes... and I'll buy a Currie pumpkin with 3.5 truetrac
Give the people at DTS a call and ask them about installing a 8.8 rearend in the 65.
8.8 is as strong as a 9" and much less weight DTS Custom Services - Complete Assemblies
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Old 01-13-2017, 06:44 PM   #542
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Be prepared to shell out some big bucks for a 9". Consider yourself really lucky if you can find a housing for under $500.

8.8" is a very good alternative.


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Old 01-13-2017, 10:51 PM   #543
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Here is a thread that discusses installing an Explorer 8.8 into early Mustangs.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...rer-8-8-a.html

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Old 01-14-2017, 10:44 AM   #544
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The only issue with Explorer rear ends is that the differential is offset by a few inches. So your driveshaft will not be directly down the center of the transmission tunnel which could result in clearance issues with rear seat floor pan. But they usually come with disc brakes so that is a plus.

These websites have all the rear end widths for early model Fords (even has Chevy and Mopar). So if the OP has a 66 his rear end should be 57 1/4" from axle flange to axle flange.

http://carnut.com/specs/rear.html

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-r...#axzz4Vl25nkuF

So there is not many applications from early models/makes that fit that same width, and what there are, would require some sort of modification to the rear end itself, or would require a new wheel with a different offset.

Here is a chart I found for Ranger/Bronco/Explorer, but these measurements are from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface.Click image for larger version

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http://www.therangerstation.com/tech...8_8-axle.shtml

Other "common" 8.8" applications-
Click image for larger version

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https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_8.8_axle

8.8" began production in the early 80's and is still being used today. Rule of thumb is that the newer the vehicle, the wider the axle has been developed. I would begin researching Mustang, Thunderbird, Crown Vic, from the '80s and then Rangers and Explorers.

One other option is to take 2 offset Explorer rear end housings, and only use the shorter axle tubes to make a slightly narrower housing. Just a thought

At the end of the day though, there are so many options, you just have to find the one that fits your car the best or which one is the most feasible to modify.


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Old 01-14-2017, 11:23 AM   #545
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That's what I found interesting about that thread... They were talking about shortening the one side of the Explorer housing, to make it equal length, and using a pair of the short axles. One guy went to the wrecking yard and found two Explorers, and he scavenged the rear end from one, and the short axle shaft from the other. The Explorer differentials are apparently 31spline, and many are limited slip.
Seems like it could be a good alternative for a low budget upgrade.
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Old 01-14-2017, 12:14 PM   #546
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my 66 coupe...

It definitely is very interesting, and is quite popular.

This website has a pretty good write up as well:
http://thefabricatorseries.com/build...prelude-and-qa

Looks like a 8.8" out of a 1995-2004 Explorer can be narrowed to 56.5" from WMS-WMS.

But like you said, you need to do some searching and need to have the tools and skills to do it.


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Old 01-14-2017, 12:20 PM   #547
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Hey OP, if you have time check your rear end housing width from housing flange to flange and the width from wheel mounting surface to wheel mouthing service if you can.


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Old 01-14-2017, 07:37 PM   #548
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Today was carb setting day:
Now that I have a wideband...

So, I have an Edy 1406, known as the carb that is factory set stupidly lean.
I found it's chart and the setting kit.

I started by a bigger jet: #18
It got quite ok on power mode but it got dirty rich on cruise mode.

So I tried to stay the same on power mode but go leaner on cruise : #23 (original jet, other needle)
Wrong idea, it went too lean everywhere.

Finally I went diagonal rich from there to #19... (original jet, smallest needle)
And I think I'm not far from good. At least I'm in no danger anymore.

I have no struggle or hestitation when I go WOT quickly so I guess pump setting is correct.

What do spring change?
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Old 01-14-2017, 10:56 PM   #549
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The metering rod step-up springs control the rate, and the timing, of the metering rods as they transition from cruise mode to power mode. The springs are a means of fine tuning the part-throttle driveability. They are very easy to change, so once you think that you have the ignition timing, and carburetor jetting set up to where you are happy with it, you can play around with the step-up springs and see if you like the way that the car drives with one set of springs compared to another.
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Old 01-14-2017, 11:20 PM   #550
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Well it's beginning to be fun to drive... it reacts well to wot, pretty linear pull.
Now That it roars nicely up to 6000, I really wish the gears were shorter!
Next step will be the rearend for sure.
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Old 01-15-2017, 12:39 AM   #551
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There's just when I'm at 3000 and I go wot, reaction is smooth but wideband climbs up to 15.5... lean!
Otherwise I stay now between 12 and 13 most of the time.

I read so much bad things about the Edy 1406 set way too lean and impossible to set properly that I'm quite happy with my build: that means my engine is not so thursty. It shows that the engine performs well.
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Old 01-15-2017, 01:09 AM   #552
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Now that the engine seem to be set safe,
Now that I know what rear end parts I'm looking for,
Now I'm more and more concerned about my technical inspection! My tag is out since November, if I get pulled over when doing my carb settings I'm gonna get in big trouble. It's not by doing my inocent French accent that I'm gonna get out of it!
Does someone have a diagram showing the tail light system and the turning switch?
I have 2 diagrams showing the dash and interior but they don't really show the tail lights.
I've got a problem between those... it came back good and went off again and I can't find where the wire went wrong. I guess I'm gonna try replacing this wire...
:-/
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:42 AM   #553
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Yes. 15.5 at WOT is kind of lean.

I don't know if this will help or not, but here is a listing of wire colors, where they go, etc.
http://thecareandfeedingofponies.blo...-1965.html?m=1

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Old 01-15-2017, 10:41 AM   #554
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Everyone has some good points and changing to an 8.8 is the right way to go.
If you have a shop to work in, cutting and welding the axle tube is fairly straight forward and building a one time jig to hold the rear end is easy to do...but...you need a shop and the right tools/good welder and of course someone that is a good welder. Trying to do this in a garage with little or no tools will take more than a few days especially if you have to continually run chasing parts.
Call DTS or Currie and get some prices from them as they sell bare housing that are made to exactly fit your Mustang...if you are not familiar with setting up an 8.8 rear end my suggestion would be to buy that is mostly complete and comes with gears already setup, then all you need to do is install it and re-plum the brakes, change the driveshaft universal and hit the road.
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Old 01-15-2017, 11:02 AM   #555
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The Ford 8.8 Mustang Rear End - Hot Rod Network

Rearend Suspension Cradle Upgrade - Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine

This article is old and has no pictures although the written installation is pretty well documented..31 Spline Explorer Axle Swap - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

So, in a perfect world just go shopping for an Explorer rear end and some short axles, then start gathering parts...you'll probably end up taking the rear end to a shop capable of shortening the it and at the same time rebuilding/refreshening the carrier/bearings ext...then install it over a weekend...or just buy a kit that is complete and install it over a weekend...just depends on your budget and how much of the cutting/rebuilding/welding you can do on your own...IMHO
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Old 01-15-2017, 02:48 PM   #556
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After a lot of reading I'm gonna try your way with a 8.8
I need to find a good condition 8.8 from an explorer from 1995 to 2004 with posi.
And an extra right side short axle.
I will install it with 1/2" wheel spacers and it will be good.

Let the chase begin!
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Old 01-16-2017, 10:40 AM   #557
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Make sure when you buy spacers that you don't buy this type...they are junk!

2 Wheel Spacers | 1/2" Thick | 5 lug, 5 X 5.5 | 6 Lug, 6 X 5.5 | Universal Fit. | eBay

This is the kind to buy!

(4) Wheel Spacers 5x5.5 to 5x5.5 | 1.5" 1/2"x20 Studs For Jeep Ford Dodge | eBay

Also buy good hardware, not stuff from Home Depot or local hardware store!
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Old 01-16-2017, 01:16 PM   #558
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About ignition:
I had the big silver springs in it! It would never get to TT!
I'm now trying a new setup:
Blue light springs and blue bushing (yes I like blue)
Gives me:
15 Initial + 21 mechanical = 36 TT
And I reach TT at 2700 rpms
What d'you think?

I didn't have time to try on road yet: I'm having a broken wisdom tooth removed this afternoon
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Old 01-16-2017, 07:40 PM   #559
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That looks good to me, but you are going to have to drive it to really tell.
The real test will be if you can drive the car for a few hours, stop and fill up the gas tank, then get in and start the engine right up without having to wait a while for it to cool down.

My truck gives me some "hot starting" trouble with the initial timing set at 15 degrees. Especially in the summer time! It is mostly because the starter gets hot from the heat of the headers. Your engine may not have any problem though, so you will just have to experiment with it to see.
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Old 01-16-2017, 08:49 PM   #560
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Everyone has their sweet spot along with engines, and everyone is different.
Like Straybullit mentioned, drive is for an hour then pull into a parking lot/gas station or whatever. Turn the motor off for about 5 minutes then restart it. If the motor doesn't catch on the first crank and fire up I'd bring it back a degree to 14...then do the same thing. There are two schools of thought, one is to put most of the advance into the distributor as you have done and the other is to put a bare minimum into the distributor and the most at the crank.
This is the one great thing about an engine dyno, is that after break-in you can start playing with timing/carb, etc., and get it somewhat dialed in before it goes into the car.
Most mild SBF's like between 10/14 initial and 32 to 36 full at between 25/3200 rpm depending on cam, headers, carb, intake, gears...on and on.
You are certainly in the ball park. Your Lambda should help alot along with a vacuum gauge...some 40 years ago we used to hook a vacuum gauge up with a long tube and tape it to the windshield...kind of like painting header collectors with white VHT paint and going WOT a number of times to see where it would burn off, the was close to optimum length and that's where you would cut it off.
A lot of trial and error unless you spend time on a chassis dyno which can be very expensive and not really needed for a mild street car...besides, you need to learn how your specific car reacts to changes...and you get the experience.
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