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my 66 coupe...

48K views 720 replies 17 participants last post by  Aggiesrok 
#1 ·
Hi all!

New on your forum, let me introduce myself: I moved here from France for work. I've been building and racing Two strokes motorcycles for 15 years but being in the US I wanted to discover what a V8 was... So I ended up finding my 66!

Strait, no rust, super nice black standard interior done approx 10 years ago, 10 feeter paint job (silver-blue), crapy 302 from the early 70's, top loader 4 speed close ratio, 8 inch original rear end, performer 289 intake, 1406 Edelbrock carb, nice long 3Y headers (unknown brand), H pipe 2" lines 40 series.

Since I bought it for Halloween I use it as my only and everyday car.

What have I done since then?
all ball joints, upper & lower control arms...
1" Armin/Shelby drop
1" lowering coils
24mm whiteline front sway bar
monte carlo bar
4.5 mid-eye leafs
rear sway bar
KYB shocks
Borgeson 14:1 power steering conversion (in progress)
Scott Drake aluminum radiator
new water pump (cast iron)
Overhauled my 600 Edelbrock
oil, spark plugs, thermostat, oil pressure sensor
Pertronix cheap eletronic conversion
starter motor (done last night)
gear box rebuild (new forks and the rest...)
drive shaft rebuild and balanced
SSBC front disc brakes - 4 pistons calipers
rear drum rebuild
double bowl MC + power brake + proportioning valve

So what's next? wheels I guess.
I think I want TorqThrust D 15x7 with 225/60 and 215/60... but not decided yet.

AND THE ENGINE ! and that's where I need help.
not that I don't feel confortable with doing that myself but to choose parts!!!
I'm gonna stay in the US for 1 or 2 more years then I will ship my baby to France so what I want is not 1/4 mile racing, it's more rally style driving with my friends who drive mini Coopers, Alfas, MGs...

my goal is around 300rwhp, little rough idle (to sound like a real muscle car) but I don't need to much RPM, more a wide band engine.

I'm thinking of buying a roller 302 short block and rebuild it slowly while continue using the one that's in the car.
I don't want to go for a complete upgrade kit from Edelbrock or something like that : way too easy, no fun !!!
I've read good things about TrickFlow TW heads... (AFR 165 also)
I've read good things about F303 cams with 1.6 rockers...
I've read good things about Edelbrock performer RPM intake...

Actualy I'm trying to understand a little better how Dynamic Compression Ratio works, how cam works...
when I make a 2 stroke engine I start by drawing the power curve I need and then I'm able to design and build the engine that will exaclty meet my wish. 4 stroke is for me a new world but I'm sure I'll understand better soon.

So guys, thanks for reading!
waiting for your advises,
 
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#531 ·
I've had bad luck with Scott Drake electrical parts. It's all Chinese junk.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 
#532 ·
Hey, today I took out my old tiny patriot style 3Ys headers!
They came out super easy... except that I had to unplug both power steering hoses and AC hoses (I had planed that and didn't refill it after the engine rebuild).
Than I started installing my new Doug's 3Ys on the passenger side.
Took time, I had to trim both big screws from the Global West UCA. Why do the make them so long?
On the driver side the header is a little more tricky to slip in place. I think I'll have to trim the UCA screws on this side too... and I'm concerned about an angle of the Borgeson power steering box that might interfere.
I'll keep you guys up to date!
:)
 
#535 ·
I can't wait to finish the install!!!
Then I'm building a 2.5" H pipe and installing 2.5" MagnaFlows.
The rear tubes will stay in 2" untill I drill the GT holes in my rear valence.
I'm also welding a bong for the O2 sensor... soon I'll be able to set my carb!
 
#536 ·
All good: headers are installed!
I had to do 2 dents on the driver side:
One small for the Borgeson steering box and one larger but not deep, just flat area to clear the shock tower...

I'm surprised I had problems with a shock tower, I bought Doug's because I assumed it was a serious company and that these headers are designed for 65-66 mustangs...
Well now they're on so I can relax.
Tomorrow it's H-pipe / O2 sensor bong / mufflers.

And now I'm decided: I want a T5 with 0.63od and 3.5 ratio.
New or used T5 is an open question.
New complete Currie 8" pumpkin or building an 8.8 or 9" is the second open question...
 
#538 ·
The only headers that fit perfect are the ones you make yourself...very few "off the shelf" headers do.
These are the people I'd go to...you only need to buy some of the parts and not a whole conversion kit...I'd make sure you have everything you need laying on the floor before you start...running here and there for parts is a pain.
If I were in your shoes I get a new or rebuilt T5 unless you want to rebuild a used T5 yourself.
Again, if you get a 3rd member from Currie I'd go with 31 spline axles also...they aren't that much and are 30% stronger than your 28 spline...well used axles.
Then again, it's your money so choose wisely and get this project finished so you can go out and drive it.
As for a radiator, go to Ebay and get a Champion 4 row aluminum one, I've had two on my race cars and many friends have purchased them also without issues.
 
#539 ·
I called the guys at Currie and they told me to get rid of my 8" unless I have an inline 6.
They also told me I needed the big bearings to drive safely on the highway because the small bearings were just good for 65mph... they spin too fast over that.
So I guess I'm now looking for a 9" 31 splines with axlesand drum brakes... and I'll buy a Currie pumpkin with 3.5 truetrac
 
#540 ·
And you know what?
Doug's headers are AMAZING!!!
The engine roars like a beast!!!
I feel like the AFR heads got unleashed!
(Still with my 2" pipes and old 40 series)
 
#544 ·
The only issue with Explorer rear ends is that the differential is offset by a few inches. So your driveshaft will not be directly down the center of the transmission tunnel which could result in clearance issues with rear seat floor pan. But they usually come with disc brakes so that is a plus.

These websites have all the rear end widths for early model Fords (even has Chevy and Mopar). So if the OP has a 66 his rear end should be 57 1/4" from axle flange to axle flange.

http://carnut.com/specs/rear.html

http://www.roadkillcustoms.com/hot-rods-rat-rods/Rear-End-Widths.asp#axzz4Vl25nkuF

So there is not many applications from early models/makes that fit that same width, and what there are, would require some sort of modification to the rear end itself, or would require a new wheel with a different offset.

Here is a chart I found for Ranger/Bronco/Explorer, but these measurements are from wheel mounting surface to wheel mounting surface. Text Font Parallel

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Ford-8_8-axle.shtml

Other "common" 8.8" applications-
Text Font Blue Line Number

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_8.8_axle

8.8" began production in the early 80's and is still being used today. Rule of thumb is that the newer the vehicle, the wider the axle has been developed. I would begin researching Mustang, Thunderbird, Crown Vic, from the '80s and then Rangers and Explorers.

One other option is to take 2 offset Explorer rear end housings, and only use the shorter axle tubes to make a slightly narrower housing. Just a thought

At the end of the day though, there are so many options, you just have to find the one that fits your car the best or which one is the most feasible to modify.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang SRCaADDz:)53
 
#545 ·
That's what I found interesting about that thread... They were talking about shortening the one side of the Explorer housing, to make it equal length, and using a pair of the short axles. One guy went to the wrecking yard and found two Explorers, and he scavenged the rear end from one, and the short axle shaft from the other. The Explorer differentials are apparently 31spline, and many are limited slip.
Seems like it could be a good alternative for a low budget upgrade.
 
#546 · (Edited)
It definitely is very interesting, and is quite popular.

This website has a pretty good write up as well:
http://thefabricatorseries.com/buil...d-explorer-88-rear-axle-part-1-prelude-and-qa

Looks like a 8.8" out of a 1995-2004 Explorer can be narrowed to 56.5" from WMS-WMS.

But like you said, you need to do some searching and need to have the tools and skills to do it.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang SRCaADDz:)53
 
#548 ·
Today was carb setting day:
Now that I have a wideband...

So, I have an Edy 1406, known as the carb that is factory set stupidly lean.
I found it's chart and the setting kit.

I started by a bigger jet: #18
It got quite ok on power mode but it got dirty rich on cruise mode.

So I tried to stay the same on power mode but go leaner on cruise : #23 (original jet, other needle)
Wrong idea, it went too lean everywhere.

Finally I went diagonal rich from there to #19... (original jet, smallest needle)
And I think I'm not far from good. At least I'm in no danger anymore.

I have no struggle or hestitation when I go WOT quickly so I guess pump setting is correct.

What do spring change?
 
#549 ·
The metering rod step-up springs control the rate, and the timing, of the metering rods as they transition from cruise mode to power mode. The springs are a means of fine tuning the part-throttle driveability. They are very easy to change, so once you think that you have the ignition timing, and carburetor jetting set up to where you are happy with it, you can play around with the step-up springs and see if you like the way that the car drives with one set of springs compared to another.
 
#550 ·
Well it's beginning to be fun to drive... it reacts well to wot, pretty linear pull.
Now That it roars nicely up to 6000, I really wish the gears were shorter!
Next step will be the rearend for sure.
;-)
 
#551 · (Edited)
There's just when I'm at 3000 and I go wot, reaction is smooth but wideband climbs up to 15.5... lean!
Otherwise I stay now between 12 and 13 most of the time.
:)
I read so much bad things about the Edy 1406 set way too lean and impossible to set properly that I'm quite happy with my build: that means my engine is not so thursty. It shows that the engine performs well.
 
#552 ·
Now that the engine seem to be set safe,
Now that I know what rear end parts I'm looking for,
Now I'm more and more concerned about my technical inspection! My tag is out since November, if I get pulled over when doing my carb settings I'm gonna get in big trouble. It's not by doing my inocent French accent that I'm gonna get out of it!
Does someone have a diagram showing the tail light system and the turning switch?
I have 2 diagrams showing the dash and interior but they don't really show the tail lights.
I've got a problem between those... it came back good and went off again and I can't find where the wire went wrong. I guess I'm gonna try replacing this wire...
:-/
 
#554 ·
Everyone has some good points and changing to an 8.8 is the right way to go.
If you have a shop to work in, cutting and welding the axle tube is fairly straight forward and building a one time jig to hold the rear end is easy to do...but...you need a shop and the right tools/good welder and of course someone that is a good welder. Trying to do this in a garage with little or no tools will take more than a few days especially if you have to continually run chasing parts.
Call DTS or Currie and get some prices from them as they sell bare housing that are made to exactly fit your Mustang...if you are not familiar with setting up an 8.8 rear end my suggestion would be to buy that is mostly complete and comes with gears already setup, then all you need to do is install it and re-plum the brakes, change the driveshaft universal and hit the road.
 
#555 ·
The Ford 8.8 Mustang Rear End - Hot Rod Network

Rearend Suspension Cradle Upgrade - Modified Mustangs & Fords Magazine

This article is old and has no pictures although the written installation is pretty well documented..31 Spline Explorer Axle Swap - Ford Muscle Forums : Ford Muscle Cars Tech Forum

So, in a perfect world just go shopping for an Explorer rear end and some short axles, then start gathering parts...you'll probably end up taking the rear end to a shop capable of shortening the it and at the same time rebuilding/refreshening the carrier/bearings ext...then install it over a weekend...or just buy a kit that is complete and install it over a weekend...just depends on your budget and how much of the cutting/rebuilding/welding you can do on your own...IMHO
 
#556 ·
After a lot of reading I'm gonna try your way with a 8.8
I need to find a good condition 8.8 from an explorer from 1995 to 2004 with posi.
And an extra right side short axle.
I will install it with 1/2" wheel spacers and it will be good.
:)
Let the chase begin!
 
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