my 66 coupe... - Page 20 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Classic Mustangs



Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 03-23-2017, 10:44 AM   #666
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
It would be helpful to know which bearing(s) were the point of failure. Main bearings or rod bearings?
Whenever I assemble a rebuilt engine, I always plasti-guage all of the bearings to ensure that the clearances are all within specifications. Basically, it is the last chance to double check the machine work that was done. Was this engine plasti-guaged during assembly?

The reason that I ask that is because, if there was a mistake during the machining process, you could put two of the best oil pumps known to mankind on the engine, and you will have the same result.
When you get the engine removed from the car, disassemble it and do a thorough inspection, and try to determine exactly where the bearings began to fail.
It's been my experience that, aside from broken oil pump drive shafts, oil pumps are rarely the cause of failed bearings.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-23-2017, 11:05 AM   #667
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
I certainly agree with Straybullitt and my only deviation is that plasti-guage is ok although if you want to be 100% sure you need to use a micrometer.
If you do use plasti-gauge check at least two different spots on the journal. The other issue is that an inside micrometer can measure a 360 degree circle and plasti-gauge can't.

Yes, mic's are expensive although if you pick the machined pieces up at the machine shop they should have a work sheet showing all of the work plus a detailed work sheet showing all of the specs for the crank, block, rods, pistons, pins...etc. If they don't then have them bring their mic's out and show you in person...This is the only way you can be sure unless you go out and buy the micrometers yourself and measure yourself...IMHO

As an engine comes back from the machine shop you need....
1. torque the main caps and measure the bare bore with on inside micrometer
2. torque rod caps and measure the bare bore with on the inside micrometer

Then measure the thickness of the main and rod bearings...each one

Then measure the outside diameter of the crank journals...both rod and main.

With these measurements you can determine what your clearances are and if there is a problem.
I know it doesn't sound like much but micrometers can measure to 0.00001".

We used to use plasti-gauge back in the 60's although we didn't really care much about longevity.

Just my own opinion.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 12:03 PM   #668
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
Plastigage: The Poor Man's Micrometer
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 03-23-2017, 12:36 PM   #669
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
I definitely agree. Measuring with a micrometer is more accurate than a piece of plastic thread.
And I would measure everything with micrometers, if I had a set that I knew to be accurate. But I would still plasti-guage it to make sure that the physical measurements coincide with the mic'd measurements.
I suppose that this is the reason that I travel 150 miles to go to the same machine shop that I've been using for 20 years... So that I don't need to own a good set of micrometers, and can trust that they are going to do all of the machining correctly. The plasti-guage is just a method of doing one last check before the final assembly, and bolting on the oil pan.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 12:42 PM   #670
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
You are right on both counts.
I've had a set of Starrett inside and outside mics for over 35 years and they came with the standards. Just like my Snap-On 3/8 and 1/2 torque wrenches which have been sent in for testing every 3 to 4 years to make sure they are accurate. Cost is minimal and if you build many engines it is helpful...

---------- Post added at 10:42 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:41 AM ----------

https://wiki.ezvid.com/best-micromet...FQJsfgodn9IPAg
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 02:10 PM   #671
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
About WHY this happened, I have my little guess...
Looks like it's a very bad idea to do outlaw racing at 1am being dead drunk with a cold new engine...
But I might try that again, just to make sure this really is a bad idea.
But well, now I won't change the situation by just admitting I'm a stupid kid. So it's now time to pull it out again and fix it.

Oh, another thing,
For a T5 gearbox, what should I chose?
Normal T5 or world class? Looks like the main difference is the 1st gear ratio?
What would be best with my 302 and 3.50 rear end?
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 05:36 PM   #672
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
But I might try that again, just to make sure this really is a bad idea.

I certainly hope that you mean to try that again sober next time!

World Class is the later version of the T5. It recieved all of the updates over the years.
What are the gear choices? 2.95 or 3.35?
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 07:00 PM   #673
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
That was a joke, I hope this will be a good enough lesson.

I don't know the gear choice, From what I understood the world class has a shorter 1st.

If world class is the later version I guess the upgrades makes it better?
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 07:39 PM   #674
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
Yes. The WC was steadily improved to handle more power.
Here is a good article covering the changes throughout the years.
http://www.moderndriveline.com/Techn...t5_history.htm

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 08:16 PM   #675
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
Agree on the WC although a Tremec TKO would be stronger...especially if you continue to destroy motors.

I took your reponse about being drunk and beating on a new motor with a grain of salt...hope you weren't driving drunk out of your mind...I hope!
And this had nothing to do with hammering on a new motor, the machine work and assembly was...less than stellar in my humble opinion.

If you don't find out what the issue is and correct it you will likely repeat it again!
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 10:18 PM   #676
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
Drink&drive is a national sport in my country!


Question for experts: could too much torque have bent a 50 yo crank second oversized?

That would be a noble death...
New crank and rods might be an idea
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-23-2017, 10:26 PM   #677
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
I spent many months in your country in the 80's and 90's...and I think your country holds a back seat to Germany, Belgium, and Luxembourg...at least it did in the 80's and 90's.

To answer your question...No, unless you are putting down 600+lbft of torque in your SBF. My guess it was already bent or ground wrong, or your block main bearings are not straight!
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2017, 01:50 AM   #678
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
I second that no. Not on a NA engine anyway.
It's unfortunate, but something must have been incorrect with the rod journal that, I assume, those two rod caps and bearings were attached to. Or perhaps a problem with the rods being out of round, incorrect end play, etc.
A healthy engine will hold up to a good flogging.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-24-2017, 12:15 PM   #679
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
When you tear the mains off...just take one off...and then take the rod before and after that journal and take pictures, please.
I really didn't look closely at the rod bearings before and when I did I'd suspect either one of four things;

1. the crank was ground incorrectly
2. the rods were not resized correctly
3. clearances on the rod bearings were incorrect
4. depends on the pictures of the main bearings

This may have been eliminated buy checking all clearances before assembly, not so sure I would trust the machine shop any further than I could spit...my opinion.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 04:15 PM   #680
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
News of my engine:
I have replaced all rod bearings and crank bearings... all from under the car without taking out the engine.
Noise is gone!

Cheap and dirty.
Many flushes planned for the coming days.
I'll pull out the oil pan in 2 weeks to check bearings and we'll see from there if I really need to take it out.

By the way, I'm thinking of finding an upgraded pan... any advise?

And now a new problem:
Under my fuel tank there's a 3" round humid spot, and there are a few drops on the ground.
Damn it!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2017, 04:19 PM   #681
Registered Member
Regular
 
KATO's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Cutler Bay
Region: Florida
Posts: 1,613
Send a message via Yahoo to KATO
Welcome Aboard from Cutler Bay, FL.
__________________
07 GT. SCT: CUSTOM TUNE by "MUSTANG SPECIALTIES". LMR: GEN2 2010 STYLE HEADLIGHTS, RAXIOM: 2010 SMOKED COYOTE TAIL LIGHTS, WHEELS: STAGGERED WHL 22X8.5F-22X10R MORE LISTED INSIDE.
KATO is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2017, 12:26 AM   #682
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
My fingers are crossed for you!

I think that a road race style oil pan would suit you the best. I recommend doing some research on which oil pans and windage trays are the most effective at keeping the oil from floating around inside of the crankcase.

Sucks about the fuel tank, but after 51 years, you have to expect such things to need to be replaced. It will be nice to have a clean fuel system.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2017, 01:20 AM   #683
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
The best oil pans/windage tray you can get would be a Canton, although they aren't cheap. A Milodon 31600 is what we used in my 66 GT Hipo back in the day, I think that's the number. You need to watch out for the width of the kick out as you don't have a lot of width in the Mustang Chassis...because you have a front sump.
I think an OEM 69/70 Boss 302 pan and windage tray will work although you'll have to replace some of the main bolts as the windage tray attaches to them.
A lot of options.
Good luck with replacing the rod/main bearings.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-31-2017, 10:09 AM   #684
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
For the moment engine seams ok.

New: I have just created an exhaust problem.
I have installed my 2.5" lines and MagnaFlows...
It sounds like a gasser with glass packs! Badass but way too loud!!!
I'm so pissed, everybody pushed me towards these mufflers: it puts on my neighbor's car alarm!
There's no way I can drive with these in Europe.
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 11:33 AM   #685
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
What Magnaflow's did you buy? They shouldn't be that loud!
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 11:52 AM   #686
Registered Member

Regular
 
Recon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hopkinsville
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 6,613
^ unless it's Magnapacks.


Pick your poison.
__________________
Mustangalley.com
Mustang of the day,
July 12, 2015
Recon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 11:53 AM   #687
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
Never heard of Magnapacks, what is that????
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 12:17 PM   #688
Registered Member

Regular
 
Recon's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Hopkinsville
Region: Kentucky
Posts: 6,613
Magnaflow's most aggressive muffler.
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1491499058.581569.jpg
Views:	26
Size:	169.5 KB
ID:	226402


Pick your poison.
__________________
Mustangalley.com
Mustang of the day,
July 12, 2015
Recon is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 01:34 PM   #689
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
I have MagnaFlows 13216 I think.
It is super quiet when cruising.
It's a bit too present at idle.
But truth is that my exhaust temporarily stops at the mufflers because I'm waiting for a new fuel tank... that might not help!
If I steel think it's loud (for European laws) once finished, could a mini converter help? Like the Magnaflow 53956?
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 01:39 PM   #690
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
About my QuickFuel carb:
Until now I've used it just "out of the box", without even setting idle.
But it's far from perfect:
10 at idle, rest looks fine.
But when I set idle at 12.5, it gets lean for cruising at 15!
I have a vacuum thing at 6.5
I have primary jets at 66.
What should I work on?
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 02:08 PM   #691
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I have MagnaFlows 13216 I think.
It is super quiet when cruising.
It's a bit too present at idle.
But truth is that my exhaust temporarily stops at the mufflers because I'm waiting for a new fuel tank... that might not help!
If I steel think it's loud (for European laws) once finished, could a mini converter help? Like the Magnaflow 53956?
Installing catalytic converters will definitely quiet down the exhaust, but that would be a waste of money on your car, in my opinion.
Installing the tail pipes will help quite a bit. It will keep the exhaust from echoing underneath the car.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 02:21 PM   #692
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
About my QuickFuel carb:
Until now I've used it just "out of the box", without even setting idle.
But it's far from perfect:
10 at idle, rest looks fine.
But when I set idle at 12.5, it gets lean for cruising at 15!
I have a vacuum thing at 6.5
I have primary jets at 66.
What should I work on?
I don't have any experience with those carburetors.

You are finding out why many people prefer to use fuel injection nowadays. It is much easier to tune for all driving conditions.
My only advice, is to read some articles/watch some YouTube videos about tuning QuickFuel carbs. You may end up having to compromise somewhere with the tune.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-06-2017, 02:32 PM   #693
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
Yes, I have to do my homework and understand what does what in this Holley type carb.
Injection? Too easy! :-p
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-18-2017, 07:12 PM   #694
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
Hi guys!
I need to replace my tank, has a rust spot and it starts dripping.
I received my new tank last week.
As it was near metal I asked a friend to prime and paint it... it's now a wonderful gloss black!

My question:
What can I use to seal it in the trunk?
Shall I find the original style rubber strips or canI use something else?
I have black RTV and weatherstripping glue under my hand. Is one of those OK or shall I go shopping?
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 12:19 AM   #695
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
It's up to you.
In a pinch, I'm sure that you could make whatever you have on hand work.
Personally, I tend to like to put things like that back together as close to factory as possible. With any luck, that new fuel tank will last another 50 years without ever having to be removed again. It might be worth the effort to to get the correct parts to ensure that there is no rattling or other annoying problems later on.
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2017, 09:13 AM   #696
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,727
When I've put taken tanks out and replaced them in early Mustangs I use a strip caulk like this...I've always gone to an automotive store to buy it and have never used Eastwood.

Eastwood Flexible Strip Caulk Bk 2-lbs
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2017, 11:34 AM   #697
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
Hi everybody!
It's been quite a while I didn't post... but the project goes on!

I did big mods:

I now have a T5WC with 5th at 0.68
Steeda tri-ax short throw shifter
CPC old school lever
Scott drake tiny knob with 5 speed marking

I also have a big 9" rearend
TrueTrac 3.50 gears
31 spline axles

I cruise at 80mph at 2500rpm which is pretty sweet.

Fox body bell housing
convertion aluminum fly wheel
10.5" ford racing clutch

and you know what?
it's awesome!!!

changes under the hood:
- cheap oil catch can on the PCV
- cooling over flow tank

and I now plug my vacuum advance on total vacuum instead of ported: the car runs way better at lower rpms, doesn't over heat when it idles for a long time (waiting at the drive thru for exemple)
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-10-2017, 11:42 AM   #698
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
otherwise:
- I still complain about my loud Magnaflow mufflers, I guess I'm gonna swap them for Flowmasters 40 Delta flow and see how it sounds.
- I'm actually working on custom seat relocation bracket to get 2" of extra leg room (I'm only 5'11 but my left knee is at the turn signal lever)
- my speedometer gearing is wrong, speedo tells me I'm way slower than what GPS says. I've pulled the gear from the gearbox but I've put a big splash of ATF on the floor... I guess I need to drain the box prior to replace it. I just had time to see the gear was white... so I believe that's a 23 teeth. I would like to try with a black 20 teeth.
- carburetor setting gets better. I now have 13afr at idle and I have 14 while cruising at any spped (with +2 on the main jets). It's rich under acceleration and sometimes puffs black when I floor it.
- I badly need a new windshield but I don't understand why I find only super expensive clear ones and only tinted green or tinted grey cheap ones... my car has clear windows, I'm afraid it will look weird with a tinted windshield!



little by little, one step at a time...
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2017, 12:11 AM   #699
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 7,634
Sweet!
It sounds like you got a lot done last summer!
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-11-2017, 10:33 AM   #700
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 310
I'm still not satisfied with my engine settings...
now it works good at low rpm / every day cruising.
I have IT@14, TT@35, I reach TT around 2500rpm
But when I go wot it's not great: I feel some bogs, then it doesn't push very hard, then it pushes like crazy
I think my secondaries open too late.

And there's this smoke that I see in my mirror sometimes... I can't understand what it comes from. Blown head gasket???
This morning during 10-15 seconds it was smoking, very small incline on highway, afr was showing 12.5/13
Could it be a valve cover gasket spilling on a header?

I have an appointment at the dyno in January.

Otherwise I have a problem with my driver side header: it leaks all the time. I replaced the gasket 3 times, but after a few days the leak comes back!
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Classic Mustangs

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Whats looks better a 1966 mustang coupe, or a 1967 mustang coupe? Carmi Classic Mustangs 3 12-17-2011 03:51 AM
Fiberglass pieces for '66 coupe and '68 coupe..where to buy? MustangMatt Mustang Audio & Video 2 01-19-2005 10:14 PM
87-93 5.0 Coupe Jayber Mustang Parts for Sale and Wanted 3 09-06-2004 07:41 AM
Got to drive a turbo coupe Tbird232ci The Bar 3 05-08-2004 01:39 PM
T-bird Turbo Coupe?? fast64 The Bar 3 11-05-2003 09:37 AM

» Like Us On Facebook



10:17 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
vBulletin Security provided by vBSecurity v2.2.2 (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2018 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.