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Old 04-11-2016, 09:11 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Well putting a jack under the hood to stretch the car sounds so stupid that I can't wait trying!

But when I look to your album and I see what you've been thru, I think my problems are cosmetic.

Ha! It does seem like a lot of work, but I'd do it again in a heart beat. But a little more planned out. I totally understand on what you mean about using the jack under the hood.
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Old 04-12-2016, 12:49 PM   #72
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I haven't done it but I've read that jacking at the center of the crossmember does cause the shock towers to "sag" a little and separate the towers sometimes enough to fit the export brace.


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Old 04-13-2016, 01:44 PM   #73
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Here's a picture of under my hood for Olerodder:



I should receive my shock tower tops and bolts today so I will soon try to fit the Export braces using the jack.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:19 PM   #74
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So, here we go !



bucher style! a piece of wood, a jack and a little strap to keep these things aligned... 1/2 inch in a few seconds with no effort. No cracking noise, no problem.



now with export braces and new shock tower tops.
everything worked perfectly as planed.
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Old 04-14-2016, 11:22 PM   #75
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Looks great!
Nothing a little "back yard mechanizing" can't accomplish.
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Old 04-15-2016, 03:30 AM   #76
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Well done!
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:18 AM   #77
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Next step is to replace my wheels. I hate my 80's style 14" rims and even more my 195/65/14 that are way too small, old and hard.

I think the ones I like best are the American Racing Torque thrust D (TT10)... Shelby "R" style
in 15x7 they have a 3-3/4 BS which I know is not the best for the early bodies.
Will they fit my car with 225/60 ?
shall I have my fenders rolled? front? rear? both?
What about tires? are BF T/A a good choice?

I was thinking of 225/60 in the back and 215/60 in front. is that a good idea or should I go for 225 all around?
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Old 04-15-2016, 12:24 PM   #78
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I have another concern:
I don't like my actual ride heights.
I have:
- 1" lowering coils and Armin/Shelby drop 1"
- 1" lowering leafs (mid eye 4.5 leafs and standard poly shackles)

and my car looks like the rear is lower than the front...
:-/

in the front I measure 14-1/2 on each side which is supposed to be the original height. So now I start wondering if they didn't send me regular height springs...

in the back I measure 14-3/8

I'm lost !
I don't know what to do but it looks wrong.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:29 PM   #79
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Quote:
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Next step is to replace my wheels. I hate my 80's style 14" rims and even more my 195/65/14 that are way too small, old and hard.

I think the ones I like best are the American Racing Torque thrust D (TT10)... Shelby "R" style
in 15x7 they have a 3-3/4 BS which I know is not the best for the early bodies.
Will they fit my car with 225/60 ?
shall I have my fenders rolled? front? rear? both?
What about tires? are BF T/A a good choice?

I was thinking of 225/60 in the back and 215/60 in front. is that a good idea or should I go for 225 all around?
Are you talking about these wheels,
http://www.americanracing.com/wheel/4480/vnt70r

I had the Shelby GT350 wheels on mine 30 years ago....and I used 225x60/15's on all four corners. I just don't remember what springs I had in the rear and front....I also had lowered the UCA's as per the Shleby drop. 215x60's are too small for the front....although the picture shown was when the car was totally stripped of the interior and had no motor or transmission when it was put back together it was the perfect ride height, just a little lower than stock or about the same as the OE GT350's.
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Old 04-15-2016, 11:47 PM   #80
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I have another concern:
I don't like my actual ride heights.
I have:
- 1" lowering coils and Armin/Shelby drop 1"
- 1" lowering leafs (mid eye 4.5 leafs and standard poly shackles)

and my car looks like the rear is lower than the front...
:-/

in the front I measure 14-1/2 on each side which is supposed to be the original height. So now I start wondering if they didn't send me regular height springs...

in the back I measure 14-3/8

I'm lost !
I don't know what to do but it looks wrong.
Who's front coil springs did you buy and were they from the same company you bought the rear springs from. When you measured....where did you measure from, the ground or the center of the wheel?
Could you take a picture of your car from the side.....measure from the center of the wheel to lip of the body, both front sides and both rear sides.
How long have you had the springs installed, and how many miles have you driven. New springs do settle as do new leaf springs....they just don't settle as much. New front coils can settle as much as 1/4" to 1/2" depending....and usually takes about 200/300 miles to completely settle.
Setting up a specific ride height on the old Mustang front ends takes a lot of work...old design....there is a company that's making dropped spindles for the 65/66 Mustang although I'm not sure there are on the market till next month, the company CSRP....
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:11 AM   #81
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I bought my springs at CJ. no specific brand, just random "one inch lowering coils"... when I bought those I didn't know much about Mustangs, I had to replace urgently upper and lower control arms and I bought these prings a bit too fast.

Of course I take my measure from wheel center to fender lip!


settle? all my suspension parts are 3500 miles (mid november)
since then I dont like how it sits but I had other things to take care of first as the brakes, the cooling, the steering... Now I get to the point where I want to weld my traction bars front anchor point and I want to find my correct ride height before that.

But coils are pretty cheap, I could just buy other ones if you guys have a good advise to give me.
I'd like to drop the front to around 13 inches
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Old 04-16-2016, 09:58 AM   #82
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All good information as I have no idea how long ago you have done the mods.
If I were you and as you don't know who's springs they are or the spring rate and I assume they are not progressive....I'd take the front springs out and cut 1/2 coil. This should drop the car about 3/4" to 1" which should get you a lot closer to front ride height. If that is correct then I would call a real spring company like Eibach and give them the lenght of the spring and see if they have something close to what you have. Also I'd get progressive springs if you can as it will give you a better ride. Is the back where you want it or do you want it to be the same as the front. In the rear did you get 4 leaf mid eye springs or 5 leaf?
I'd take the front coils out and cut 1/2 coil out, then see where the ride height falls and if the front is correct and the back is too high I'd use a like a 1/2" spacer with the proper wedge to get the pinion angle correct....in fact where is the pinion angle now with the car sitting the way it is....whenever you lower a car or change the suspension geometry you should check the pinion angle in relation to the transmission angle.....

One last thing is that the back spacing on the wheels is going to need to be around 4-1/4"....the 3-3/4" is really not going to be enough.
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Old 04-16-2016, 10:25 AM   #83
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I guess the rear is ok: there's a page on Steeve Mustang's site that shows cars and their ride heights...
My reading is that a front/rear difference of 1" gives a nice horizontal ride. 1-1/2" gives a little more agressive ride.

they talk about "Mustang plus" springs with a 620 rate but I don't know that brand. Looking around I find "Grap a Trak", "Global West"...
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:29 PM   #84
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All companies buy their springs from a major supplier like Eibach or H&R. If you want good answers give Global West a call, I've been to their facility and bought their products and they are first class.
Since you have no idea where you are currently with your springs and since it is easy to do I'd just cut 1/2" coil out and see where it sits....then call Global West.
Mustangs Plus is good also, and they buy their springs from one of the above. I've also been to Mustangs Plus many times as I used to live in Stockton, CA....that is where Mustangs has their shop.
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Old 04-16-2016, 12:33 PM   #85
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I know you are not going to spend this kind of money on front suspension...if I was going to build another 65/66 Mustang this is probably what I'd put on the front end.....Total Control Products

Actually made by Chris Alston's Chassisworks.
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Old 04-16-2016, 01:32 PM   #86
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Of course when I visit TCP web site I have a half boner, but this is too far from my actual project. Maybe in 5 or 10 years when I'll want to re-do my ride and get it better.

Actually I want to find rims, tires, a 9" rear end, an auto lock, headers, 2-1/2 exhaust line, rebuild an AC and built a strocker 347... my wallet's gonna cry hard enough.
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Old 04-16-2016, 06:55 PM   #87
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These guys have been around a long time:
https://www.eatondetroitspring.com/
They manufacture and encourage people to talk to them first to get just what they need. I think there was an article in Mustang Monthly about them not too long ago.



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Old 04-16-2016, 06:56 PM   #88
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Here's the article
http://www.mustangandfords.com/parts...troit-springs/


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Old 04-17-2016, 12:29 PM   #89
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Of course when I visit TCP web site I have a half boner, but this is too far from my actual project. Maybe in 5 or 10 years when I'll want to re-do my ride and get it better.

Actually I want to find rims, tires, a 9" rear end, an auto lock, headers, 2-1/2 exhaust line, rebuild an AC and built a strocker 347... my wallet's gonna cry hard enough.
Your wallet is going to do more than cry.....it will scream!!!!
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Old 04-20-2016, 10:58 AM   #90
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Question about heat... in summer.

Actually I have a tiny water leak on radiator lower hose. Nothing bad, no over heating and only 1/2gallon of distilled water per week.

As I'm gonna flush to replace that hose, I'd like to add a tap on my heater core system : even when heater is off, it still brings some heat inside the car.
I guess I don't need that during summer in Texas.

1- could someone confirm the heater core hose diameter? is it 5/8" ?
2- where would you guys install that tap?
3- what do you think about this thing found on E-bay:



Any other upgarde idea?

I've also seen electric powered valve taps... wired on the heater box blower (using a relay) could be a fun idea don't you think?
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Old 04-20-2016, 01:04 PM   #91
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Maybe it's just because it's late in the day, but in my mind you may affect the flow through the engine? Rather than shutting it off, would you be better off bypassing it instead? Did the V8 have a bypass hose at the pump back then?


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Old 04-20-2016, 01:41 PM   #92
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Maybe it's just because it's late in the day, but in my mind you may affect the flow through the engine? Rather than shutting it off, would you be better off bypassing it instead? Did the V8 have a bypass hose at the pump back then?


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Correct.
Installing a valve on the heater hose is a bad idea. The heater core is the bypass for the water pump.
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Old 04-20-2016, 02:11 PM   #93
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So water pressure is gonna get too high when thermostat's not yet open?

So I should do a kind of bypass with a 3 way valve and a "T"?


don't you guys feel heat even when the levers are in "no heat" position?
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Old 04-20-2016, 04:24 PM   #94
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So water pressure is gonna get too high when thermostat's not yet open?

So I should do a kind of bypass with a 3 way valve and a "T"?


don't you guys feel heat even when the levers are in "no heat" position?
That valve would solve the bypass problem, but you will still be getting some hot coolant into the heater core through the natural thermosyphon action of heated liquids. It just won't be circulating through the heater core as it is now.
I would just do something simple, like disconnecting the hoses from the heater core, and installing a 5/8 90 degree elbow onto the ends of the heater hose where they attatch to the heater core. This will complete the bypass "loop", and keep all of the coolant from entering the heater core.
If there is excessive heat entering the passenger compartment, when the temperature control is turned all of the way to cold, you may want to inspect the blend door located inside the HVAC box. If it is not closing properly it will allow the heat to enter the cabin, almost as if you have the heater on.
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:16 PM   #95
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Haha! there's everything on Amazon!


I think I found what I was looking for!


by the way, I have a question about the heater control panel on Mustangs...
there are 3 cables:
- one controls if hot air flows towards legs or windshield defrost
- one opens the door to the outside air flow coming from the passenger side

what does the third one?
I was wondering... to see if I could use that third cable to pilot my bypass project.
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Old 04-20-2016, 07:51 PM   #96
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One of the cables operates that blend door that I was referring to. It determines how much air is allowed to pass through the heater core and heat up the interior of the vehicle.
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:11 PM   #97
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One of the cables operates that blend door that I was referring to. It determines how much air is allowed to pass through the heater core and heat up the interior of the vehicle.
Yes, I think that's the one I was refering to as air flow...
so there's still one that I don't identify
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Old 04-20-2016, 08:50 PM   #98
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I believe that there are two blend doors. One controls the air to the footwell/dashboard, and one controls the amount of heat desired. The third cable controls the outside air vent function.

Perhaps someone like Tyoung can verify this.
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Old 04-20-2016, 09:33 PM   #99
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There's a heat, defrost and temp. Heat is the blend door, defrost is which vent the air comes out of and temp is controlling the outside air coming in. At least that's how it is on 68's.
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Old 04-21-2016, 06:48 AM   #100
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Same on '65-'66. Left knob down is heater. Center knob is temp control. Right knob down is defrost. Heat and defrost both have to be down to get defrost. They are cables so you can control the volume of airflow. I would buy a length of heater hose and bypass the core as recommended by previous poster.


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Old 04-25-2016, 08:53 PM   #101
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today a little bit of imagination and I ended with a home made tacho cup!

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Old 04-27-2016, 08:30 PM   #102
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Back to the suspension:
I bought Grab-A-Track 620 lowering 1" springs found on E-bay (80$)
That's it, they're on the car and I ended up with the ride height I wanted: 13" (from center to lip)

Now that I like how it sits, next step is to install the Scott Drake traction bars.

I found a pair of Torq Thrust 15x7 thru the forum but damn, they're 4h driving from my place... That sucks!
I'm trying to find friends/friends of friends to pick them up for me but that's not so easy...

Stay tuned, more adventure in next episode!
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Old 04-27-2016, 10:59 PM   #103
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Old 04-28-2016, 11:43 PM   #104
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The tachometer looks great!

Maybe the seller of the wheels will meet you halfway?
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:47 AM   #105
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I don't know... News soon.
But problem. My friends voted for Magnum 500s, so again I'm stuck between these 2 wheels.

I'll have all time to think. If you like classic scooters Vespa and lambretta, come and be drunk with us all weekend around a lac north Austin !
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