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Old 04-29-2016, 05:21 AM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I don't know... News soon.
But problem. My friends voted for Magnum 500s, so again I'm stuck between these 2 wheels.

I'll have all time to think. If you like classic scooters Vespa and lambretta, come and be drunk with us all weekend around a lac north Austin !

Have you looked at tire tack? They have a decent selection of wheels
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:57 PM   #107
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nice site!

Assuming I won't go to 16", there are 3 wheels that I like in 15x7:
- Magnum 500: period correct, perfect BS, classic look for the old lady...
(negative: heavy wheels)
- Aluminum Magnum 500: lighter than the originals, no risk of chrome peeling, perfect BS
(negative: modern look)
- Torq thrust D: race look, period OK, light weight
(negative: small BS = probably roll fenders)

my french racing team votes go to chromed Magnums and white letters on tires, my american coworkers pushes me toward the Torq Thrust and black tires.
My best friend loves the Ansen Sprint but as he is a Honda lover and as I'm not a hudge fan of these wheels...

So I still don't know.

2 new problemS from yesturday:

1- the CLUTCH starts acting wierd again... I already broke the 20$ little braket that goes with the clutch lever in January. I was stuck, deap ****, so I took the car to a Mustang specialized shop in my town (the only one) and as we had to drop the gearbox and that the gearbox was dying, I had it fully overhauled. They've replaced the broken piece, the lever is not original but it's a Dynacorn. I told the to replace the clutch if needed so I would not have to worry again... They told me that my clutch was in great shape and that it was no need to replace it.
Things where good when I left the shop. A month later I've installed the Borgesson steering and so I replaced the Z-bar linkage and found the proper adjustment.
Clutch has always been pretty hard. No idea what clutch/spring is inside.
Yesturday disengaging the clutch I heard (I think I did) a little clic and now it's hard to get the clutch to fully disengage...
Damn, I'm pissed!!!
I've gotta find what's going on.

2- Rolling noise: I believe that's since I've replaced my springs for lowering ones... But not sure if it's related or not.
When driving I feel like something is wrong. Same as if a wheel bearing was dying or if a caliper was touching a rim. Could it be the UCA touching my 14" wheel because of the drop?
It's not the engine: the noise is the same when I let the car go in neutral.
Or it could be comming from the rear, my differential is the last original part on the car... I don't even know if there's oil in it... maybe one bearing is dead? I would be surprised if that occured just when I did some change in front... I assume it's related to my front drop.

So I'm super happy. Everything was doing good, slowly but surely work was going forward. And now I feel like going backwards: driving slow because of this noise and fighting with my clutch.

Yes, driving a 50 year old classic is a hard life style full of surprises...
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:13 PM   #108
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Here is the clutch part that I broke in January:

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Old 04-29-2016, 03:17 PM   #109
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No ideas on the clutch, but the rolling noise could be the inner lip of the rim hitting the upper control arm
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Old 04-29-2016, 03:21 PM   #110
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No ideas on the clutch, but the rolling noise could be the inner lip of the rim hitting the upper control arm
I hope that's the case... As I'm looking for 15s it would solve the issue right away!
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Old 04-29-2016, 08:17 PM   #111
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It's getting worse, clutch is no longer properly disengaging!
looks like the same part broke again.

I called Alamo Classic Ponies, the "specialists" as they call themselves.
Their answer is that anyway I can forget any kind of warranty since I've replaced the Z-bar myself since they've worked on the car.
Thanks guys, really professional.

So as their garage is the slowest ever their prices are the highest ever, they don't know how to tell you how long work will take... I guess that whatever has to be done I'll have to do it myself.

what should I do? how do I get to the inside of the bell house?
drop the exhaust line, drop the gearbox?
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:44 PM   #112
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Yes. It looks like you are going to have to remove the transmission. While it is apart, carefully inspect the clutch fork/pivot ball assembly for wear.
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Old 04-29-2016, 10:20 PM   #113
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Is this caused by the linkage/Z bar hitting the headers?
Also check to see how much wear there is on the clutch fork where it holds the throwout bearing, or if one the springs has broken off.
Like was said, it's time to tear everything apart to get the fork.
Did you replace the clutch? If no I would buy a new arm and throughout bearing as they are cheap.
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Old 04-30-2016, 01:31 AM   #114
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Quote:
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Did you replace the clutch? If no I would buy a new arm and throughout bearing as they are cheap.
No, in January I had no tools and not enough guts to play with the gearbox... The guys from the shop told me that it was useless to replace the clutch, that mine was recent and in a very good shape.
I believed them then.

So they've just replaced the broken part and that's all and I went away with a fixed clutch system and overhauled gearbox and shaft.

Now I'm mad cause I payed a lot to forget about clutch and tranny problems, I've left my car to the best "specialists" in town and 3 month later here comes the clutch again!
I have no time to spend twice on the same system, that just pisses me off, I have plenty of other things to restaure on this car!


So now I have a few days off, what should I order to get a good clutch working fine for the next 15 years?
pedal is OK, Z-bar is new... So what clutch, what bearing, what support, what upgraded stuff should I look for?
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Old 04-30-2016, 10:11 AM   #115
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
No, in January I had no tools and not enough guts to play with the gearbox... The guys from the shop told me that it was useless to replace the clutch, that mine was recent and in a very good shape.
I believed them then.

So they've just replaced the broken part and that's all and I went away with a fixed clutch system and overhauled gearbox and shaft.

Now I'm mad cause I payed a lot to forget about clutch and tranny problems, I've left my car to the best "specialists" in town and 3 month later here comes the clutch again!
I have no time to spend twice on the same system, that just pisses me off, I have plenty of other things to restaure on this car!


So now I have a few days off, what should I order to get a good clutch working fine for the next 15 years?
pedal is OK, Z-bar is new... So what clutch, what bearing, what support, what upgraded stuff should I look for?
Well....lasting 15 years is a tall order....I am assuming the there is a machine shop in your town that will resurface the stock flywheel....find one that will do the job quickly, take the flywheel off and take it to them...shouldn't cost much. Does the car have a stocker motor...I forgot....if so then just buy a stock clutch and pressure plate along with a new throughout bearing. If the clutch kit doesn't have a short plastic shaft to put into the clutch/pressure plate you will need to buy one...this will align both the pressure plate and clutch when you put it back on your resurfaced flywheel. I'd buy a new clutch fork and check the pivot like was mentioned above. Also check the pilot bushing in the end of the crank to make sure it's not worn out....these are really fun to replace!?#
It is important to have the flywheel resurfaced it you want the clutch to survive.
I am assuming you know how to setup the proper gap for clutch engagement and no worries....if not we can discuss it later....One other thing that would be handy and not cost much is a plastic plug for the transmission tail shaft so when you pull the driveline all of the tranny fluid doesn't spill out...kind of messy.
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:10 PM   #116
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Actually there's still a worn 302 under the hood but I still plan on building a 347 following the part list that you wrote for me.
I will re-use all clutch parts the day I'll swap.
So if I have to replace parts now they have to be able to handle the future 347.

So what do we have inside?
- a flywheel that has to be machined
- flywheel bolts
- a clutch disc : what would be the good one?
- a pressure plate : same question
- 6 pressure plate bolts
- a pilot bearing ?
- a crank pilot bearing?
- a release bearing?
- a clutch fork
- a fork braket : that's the part that I broke in january.
and I will need an alignment tool.

What would be good buys?
How do I get there?

a friend of mine owns a garage and as actually he doesn't have enough mechanics, I can use one of his lifts !

So what's the sequence?
drop exhaust line, drop shaft, put a plug on the gearbox for the fluid, drop the gearbox... And I'm good?

And what about throwing all these parts away and go to hydraulic?
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Old 04-30-2016, 06:53 PM   #117
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earlier I was talking about a new "rolling noise" that appeared whith my last drop.
I found it.
It's not the UCA, it's the front sway bar that runs in contact with the chassis!!!
So in fact my front axle is not far from being "rigid"... This is not good at all.
what shall I do?
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:21 PM   #118
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Quote:
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Actually there's still a worn 302 under the hood but I still plan on building a 347 following the part list that you wrote for me.
I will re-use all clutch parts the day I'll swap.
So if I have to replace parts now they have to be able to handle the future 347.

So what do we have inside?
- a flywheel that has to be machined
- flywheel bolts
- a clutch disc : what would be the good one?
- a pressure plate : same question
- 6 pressure plate bolts
- a pilot bearing ?
- a crank pilot bearing?
(these two are the same thing)
- a release bearing?
- a clutch fork
- a fork braket : that's the part that I broke in january. (Is this the pivot that bolts/screws into the bellhousing?)
and I will need an alignment tool.

What would be good buys?
How do I get there?

a friend of mine owns a garage and as actually he doesn't have enough mechanics, I can use one of his lifts !

So what's the sequence?
drop exhaust line, drop shaft, put a plug on the gearbox for the fluid, drop the gearbox... And I'm good?

And what about throwing all these parts away and go to hydraulic?
Ok, just buy stock clutch parts and yes, have the stock flywheel surfaced. When you build the 347 you will be using a different flywheel and it will most likely be a different weight.....unless you are going to install the 347 soon just buy stock parts and they will be left with the motor you have in the car now.
The McCloud hydraulic unit looks really nice and I installed a hydraulic clutch system in my hot rod (1948 Chevy) in the early 70's....that way you don't have to worry about linkage....it just takes firewall space.

Before the car goes on the hoist take the shifter handle out....not sure what shifter you have but the shifter stick needs to come out before the trans will come out.
So the car is on the hoist...I don't know what you exhaust system looks like and if you can't drop the trans straight down with the exhaust intact then unbolt it from the headers and mufflers. Take the drive line out and plug the rear of the trans. As long as you have help unbolt the linkage from the clutch fork, unbolt the 4 trans bolts to the bellhousing, don't take them completely out until you have another person help hold the trans....then take the bolts out, with both people holding on to the trans wiggle it out and put it on the floor. Take the bellhousing out, then put your spline tool in the clutch, unbolt the pressure plate bolts...take it out. You will probably need an air impact to take the flywheel bolts out unless you have a tool to hold the flywheel from turning.
Putting it back together is the opposite.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:26 PM   #119
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The reason you will not be able to use your flywheel or balancer is;

Small-block Fords were externally balanced two ways from the factory: 28-ounce offset and 50-ounce offset. Get this one wrong and we won't need to talk about dashboard chatter-you'll live it. Small-block (260, 289, 302) Fords manufactured prior to 1982 were 28-ounce offset-balanced. When reciprocating weights (rods and pistons) became heavier in 1982 with the 5.0L H.O. engines, offset balance increased to 50 ounces. This means you can't use a 5.0L H.O. flywheel/harmonic balancer on your pre-'82 260, 289, or 302. It also means you can't use a pre-'82 260, 289, 302 flywheel/harmonic balancer on a 5.0L H.O. Small-block Fords are externally balanced, which means the flywheel and the harmonic balancer must be balanced with the crank, the rods, and the pistons.
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Old 04-30-2016, 08:41 PM   #120
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interesting!
Thanks Olerodder, your answers are always a great help.
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Old 05-01-2016, 01:56 PM   #121
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News about my sway bar that was touching the chassis, a picture will be more explicit than explanation:



The black one is a cheap 1" bar from CJ
The grey one is a pricy 24mm bar from Whiteline

As you can see on the picture, the angles are clearly not the same... On my lowered 66 now I have almost 2" clearance with the chassis where is was in contact with the black one.
Another interesting fact is that even if the diameters are quite similar, the cheap bar is heavy as hell.

As my Mom always says : "we're not rich enough to buy cheap products"
always listen to your Mom, she's sooooooo right!

problem solved.
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Old 05-01-2016, 03:47 PM   #122
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As my late father always said, "You can make a silk purse out of sows ear", and he was usually right. Buying the cheapest suspension parts is never a good idea, my words like my late fathers are..."Buy the best parts your wallet can afford and if they can't afford the best...save until you can".
Although some people don't like Whiteline...my 14 TrakPak had all Whiteline suspension pieces...great quality.
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Old 05-01-2016, 06:17 PM   #123
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Still not sure of the wheels in 15x7 I want to buy... Torq thrust D or Magnum500.
Probably the Magnums.
And tire size 225/60r15 on 4 corners I guess, or 215/60r15 in front?

Question is : what tires?
BF Radial? something else?
Goodyear Eagle GT2? (they look so fantastic classic but I don't find them as easy as the BF)
Cooper Cobra Radial?
good adress for that?
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Old 05-01-2016, 10:37 PM   #124
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Personally I would run all four tires the same size....it looks much better than staggered on the old Mustangs. With old style front suspension you want as much rubber in the front as you get if you want to go around corners fast.
I would think the tires would mostly be the same, read reviews and make choice.
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:05 AM   #125
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OK, so 4 tires the same, that would be 225/60/15 I guess for an early body.
But what tireshould I chose?
BF? Goodyear? something else?
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Old 05-02-2016, 09:16 AM   #126
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The tires....not in this size....that I've had experience are Goodyear Eagle is a good looking tire and handling...Cooper Ultra Touring is good looking and performed well...Hankook is a good tire and in my estimation Michelin A/S was the best, giving the least noise of all of the above especially the Goodyear, and the best performance...although they are the most expensive...they were the longest wearing also.
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Old 05-02-2016, 12:46 PM   #127
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Of course Michelins are good, they're french!

For a more modern car, my choice would be Michelin PS3 with no hesitation... But I don't think the look matches my project:
I would like a classic look with white letters.
All the classic part shops sell the BF but when I look to pictures on Google I see many others tires with letters.
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Old 05-02-2016, 01:04 PM   #128
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Yes my friend....they are French.
I have never been a fan of "white lettered" tires....although on early Muscle Cars that came with them I guess they look good...on a 64-1/2 to 66 I just don't like the looks. My favorite wheel is the Shelby 10 spoke and blackwall tires.
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:06 PM   #129
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OK so for the wheels I guess I'll go with a set of 15x7 Magnum 500s and "BF ta radial rwl" in 225/60.
An absolute classic, I don't think I can go wrong with this choice.

New project ongoing: AC
(yes, I live in Texas, this is kind of important stuff here and summer approches)
I've found a cheap original 1966 under dash unit. I've opened it, motor and bezel works great. I just have to test the thermostat and buy new registers.
I think I'm gonna order a new evaporator coil to be on the safe side.

Now my question : Do you guys know where I could buy a COMPLETE AC kit without the underdash evaporator?
I need everything!
condenser, drier, compressor, hoses, brakets, hardware...
I want to use R134A fluid. I heard that the original evaporator would handle the extra pressure (but I won't try with a 50 year old one)
My car was originaly equiped with AC: I already have the holes for hoses in the firewall.

FYI: 302 / Borgeson PS

Which shop could I ask? should I contact directly Classic Auto Air?
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Old 05-05-2016, 12:17 PM   #130
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Ready for reassemble:



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Old 05-05-2016, 03:14 PM   #131
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About Magnum 500 chromed wheels, some shops don't specify a brand name, some propose Vintique, some propose Scott Drake...
Which one would be the best quality?
prices are in the same range...
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Old 05-05-2016, 04:52 PM   #132
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I've bought wheels and had special made wheels from Wheels Vintique and know their wheels are quality....not sure where Scott Drake and others buy them from or maybe they buy from Wheel Vintiques. I'd buy made in the USA rather than somewhere else.
If the shop you are buying from won't say who made them I'd pass....IMHO
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:28 PM   #133
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cheapest price I've actualy found is on Summit, 160 for Vintique...
Still looking
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Old 05-08-2016, 04:06 PM   #134
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Oh damn... clutch is once again out of adjustment.
As 2 days ago I've took the Z-bar linkage out of the car and then reinstalled and adjusted, I'm getting to the point where I feel like the only thing to do is look at it and cry.
I'm upset not to understand what's going on.
Something is going wrong to mess with the setting that quickly and (at the moment) I just don't get it!

How can I get definitivly rid of this problem?
hydraulic?
cable?

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Old 05-08-2016, 08:17 PM   #135
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Ford Mustang Clutch Service - Mustang Monthly
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Old 05-08-2016, 08:45 PM   #136
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Good to read that the clutch mechanisme was badly designed but it doesn't help me much.

I've re-adjusted the clutch this afternoon. Just now I went to pick up something to eat and... on my way back once again... hard to get it free.

Since I've installed that Borgeson linkage it has been a nightmare.
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Old 05-09-2016, 12:42 AM   #137
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Maybe the Borgeson linkage is the issue.
A hydraulic clutch is the answer, just a lot or work not to mention money.
I had a cable clutch in 97 Cobra and would never have one again...the reason the newer Mustangs went hydraulic.
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Old 05-09-2016, 01:24 AM   #138
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When I really think about it, all the cars I had up to now, Germans, French, italian, English all had a clutch cable. The only car I had a problem with is a 92 Mini with a hydraulic clutch where I couldn't set correctly my free play either!
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:28 PM   #139
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Hi my friends!
a few computer problems, I didn't post for a few weeks, but I've worked a lot!

1- for the clutch, I've shorten the lower linkage and made the upper one longer... it works!
pedal is still quite hard but for the moment it works.

2- I've finally chose my wheels : Magnum 500 with 225/60/15 tires: it looks AWESOME !!!!

3- I've welded supports under my car and installed traction bars : the improvement in driving is way beyond what I expected, I love these bars.
the rear end is stiffer, and really more precise at higher speeds.

4- the weird noise I had in the back was a broken bearing... replaced both plus seals, plus flush. noise is gone!
onebearing was so rusted on the axle that even the press couldn't get it out: I had to cut it.

5- I've got my car aligned, I didn't do it after the Borgeson install but I had to do it after replacing my coils by Mustang plus 620 (I've cut 1/4 of a coil)
I asked for the maximum camber possible but they where not able to go further than 2°
I wonder if I'm not gonna buy another UCA with built in +3 camber...

6- I've received my Classic auto air parts!
I've finished rebuilding my 66 under dash with new evaporator and 4 new chrome bezels : it looks great... no, in fact it doesn't look anything, it looks like it has always been there, I don't even see it.
I've installed the pump support, had to move a little bit the Borgeson steering pump, but no big deal... except that the support is sent in bare metal, not painted... thanks classic auto air, I had to buy paint.
I've installed the condenser and dryer: what a job, I didn't realise that I would have to disassemble all the front face! took me way longer than I had planed : I ended at 1am, not fun.

So, now the AC install is complete with all the hoses and everything.
Actualy I'm wiring it, I've just gotta find a 15Amp fuse to finish it properly.
before the end of the week a guy from work will look for leaks and if good... hopefully I'll have AC next weekend !
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Old 05-24-2016, 09:37 PM   #140
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