my 66 coupe... - Page 8 - Mustang Evolution

Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Classic Mustangs

Join Mustang Evolution Today


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about them here!
Old 06-06-2016, 02:33 PM   #246
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tyoung68 View Post
Another thing that would help with suspension is a bump steer kit, unless it was mentioned already. I probably can't explain it well enough but there's many YouTube videos on it. It really helped my car after lowering it
Bump steer kit? I thought that was in case of a rack & pinion conversion...

About the hood pin, I understand that most people install that on the origami usualy holding the rubber, but where was it on the original GT350?
Do you have pictures?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-06-2016, 02:41 PM   #247
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221


news : wheel center caps! :-p
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 06-06-2016, 03:06 PM   #248
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Hey, a guy wants to buy my spare wheel which is the original Ford wheel...
does that have a value?
I have no idea how much I can ask for it...
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 03:26 PM   #249
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Bump steer kit? I thought that was in case of a rack & pinion conversion...

About the hood pin, I understand that most people install that on the origami usualy holding the rubber, but where was it on the original GT350?
Do you have pictures?

No, the issue is that the your tie rod and suspension are on two different arcs and at stock hight it's kosher and all travels In a way where the ratio works and there's little to no bump steer. So lowering the car changes the ratio between the two arcs creating bump steer. So regardless if you go rack or stay with a box for a while if your lowered its a good idea to get a kit.
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 04:28 PM   #250
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Bup Steer topic :

Ok, I've read some stuff on the suject.
Bumpsteer Explained - Mustang & Fords Magazine
Most kits (maybe all in fact) that I find on line are for "manual steering", not power steering. why?
I have a Borgeson steering box.
So, what would be a good product? I know Global West has good reputation, their kit is 250$... are they worth it?
or Baer? TCP?
Some guys sell inner & outer rod kits... is their inner a regular one?
Or will washers can save me some money having the same effect?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 06:39 PM   #251
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
I'm assuming that the difference is that the tie rods are different? I have the Baer one no complaints with it and have a couple thousand miles on it with no issues.

What were you referring to with the washers?
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 08:50 PM   #252
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Well as explained in the link above, my understanding is that the bump steer stuff is a question of rotating angle and that on old Fords you could not really solve it but get a lower amplitude by lowering the anchor point between spindle and outer rod.
In the example they give they say they had good results by lowering that point a little less than an inch, but they don't say anything about the ride height they had.
At the end they show a picture of an assembly where the lowering was made just using washers (as shims) between the ball join and the spindle. Apparently back in the days race teams would do like that to improve their handling.
I've got to get a little more into the subject to understand more precisely how they measure physically the bump steer... I mean it's one thing to buy some special parts, it's another to measure the effect.
Did you feel a real change installing your Baer kit?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 09:06 PM   #253
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Today Texas turns to summer: at 9pm it's still 94'
At 5pm I was driving slow in traffic and my temperature gauge was quite high... maybe it would be time to think about a shroud?

Metal or plastic?
Does anybody makes shroud in 2 pieces high and low?
I have a nice Scott Drake aluminum 2 rows and a rigid 6 blade fan 17"
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 10:17 PM   #254
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Well as explained in the link above, my understanding is that the bump steer stuff is a question of rotating angle and that on old Fords you could not really solve it but get a lower amplitude by lowering the anchor point between spindle and outer rod.
In the example they give they say they had good results by lowering that point a little less than an inch, but they don't say anything about the ride height they had.
At the end they show a picture of an assembly where the lowering was made just using washers (as shims) between the ball join and the spindle. Apparently back in the days race teams would do like that to improve their handling.
I've got to get a little more into the subject to understand more precisely how they measure physically the bump steer... I mean it's one thing to buy some special parts, it's another to measure the effect.
Did you feel a real change installing your Baer kit?

Yeah I didn't really know how to explain it in a way that could be understood over the Internet. I don't think washers would work all that well I don't think the stud is long enough. I did notice a huge difference in handling. Not sure how he roads are in your area or back where your from but the roads around me are petty bumpy so my car would be "Darty" You could have some bounce your front end while looking at your wheels to see if they move at all to see if/how bad you need It. It does take some time to set it up properly but it's not too difficult if you have the right tools.
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-06-2016, 11:18 PM   #255
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
How did you know how to set it?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-07-2016, 04:23 AM   #256
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
Well you'll need a bump steer gauge... I bought one, I'm sure you can diy one. Essentially you put a plate one on where your wheel mounts and then have a separate pice that measures two things, suppression travel and bump steer. I can run though step by step if you want but there are a lot of videos that would probably explain it way better than I could.
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 09:56 AM   #257
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
So, my next steps on the project are:

- replacing headlights (should arrive tomorrow)
- Hood pins : I think of Scott Drake "Deluxe" on the origami
- Bump steer measure and kit : Baer?
- pedal support replace for bearings instead of bushing on the clutch pedal
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 07:17 PM   #258
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
So, my next steps on the project are:

- replacing headlights (should arrive tomorrow)
- Hood pins : I think of Scott Drake "Deluxe" on the origami
- Bump steer measure and kit : Baer?
- pedal support replace for bearings instead of bushing on the clutch pedal

Baer is good. The bearing swap isn't easy you have to remove the support and drill out he holes and then re assemble. I didn't know that before I bought a kit haven't had the desire to become a contortionist for a few hours
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 08:55 PM   #259
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Do I have to remove other parts beside the brake booster to take the entire support out?
I assume taking the column out can help and as it's a thing that I now know by heart I'll probably take it out to save me some time...
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-08-2016, 09:17 PM   #260
Registered Member
Regular
 
Tyoung68's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: concord
Region: California
Posts: 3,375
Not sure on a 66 but in my 68 you'd have to at least drop the column from the dash
Tyoung68 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 09:28 AM   #261
Registered Member
Regular
 
Aggiesrok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bryan
Region: Texas
Posts: 1,853
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
So, my next steps on the project are:

- replacing headlights (should arrive tomorrow)
- Hood pins : I think of Scott Drake "Deluxe" on the origami
- Bump steer measure and kit : Baer?
- pedal support replace for bearings instead of bushing on the clutch pedal
Watch out for the Scott Drake hood pins. They look good and it's all stainless except for the wire inside the clear plastic holding the pins. It eventually rusts and appears brown. Small detail that kinda sucks.
__________________
chevy runs deep, Don't step in chevy!
Aggiesrok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 09:54 AM   #262
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Thanks, I did't know that.
any idea of a good product that would look period correct?
but if the rest is good, a little bit of rust on the wire will quickly look as "patina"
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 10:08 AM   #263
Registered Member
Regular
 
Aggiesrok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bryan
Region: Texas
Posts: 1,853
It's not the worst thing, I can take a pic tonight if you like. Kinda stinks that you would go to the trouble to make something stainless and then skip the wire, which is the cheapest part.
I must say that a lot of Scott Drake stuff looks and sounds great initially, but overtime it doesn't work out that way, at least that's been my experience.
__________________
chevy runs deep, Don't step in chevy!
Aggiesrok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 11:42 AM   #264
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,331
You may want to try these people;

http://www.cobraautomotive.com/catal...%20Catalog.pdf

In my day Tony Branda was the place to go for parts.....I've heard some friends say this is the place to go....you may want to check them out.

Another thing that may be helpful for the front suspension is the "roller perches" for the front springs. This was done back in the day by almost everyone running road courses and 99% were homemade...now you can buy them. I used them on my 66 and it really gave much better articulation and helped the steering feel more planted. I also used these on my drag race Maverick to help free up the front suspension....it did work....just a thought.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 01:31 PM   #265
Registered Member
Regular
 
Aggiesrok's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Bryan
Region: Texas
Posts: 1,853
Tony Branda is still good source for stuff. Here's a pic of the cable.
Click image for larger version

Name:	ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1465496962.246452.jpg
Views:	24
Size:	96.0 KB
ID:	202241


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
__________________
chevy runs deep, Don't step in chevy!
Aggiesrok is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-09-2016, 07:38 PM   #266
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Thanks guys for the link!
Looks like really interesting stuff there!


I've just received new headlights and installed them, I wanted a more classical look than the fancy ones I had... I chose Scott Drake "FoMoCo" with halogen: I LOVE THEM !
nice product and they seem to work great!
If someone wants the headlights that were on my car on the previous picture... just ask!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 01:10 PM   #267
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Oh damn... a support holding my exhaust tip broke... the pipe vibrates on the tank when I'm at idle: my car sounds like an old junk!
:-p
In january I broke the same on the other side and got it welded and now it's the other side.

As I plan buying nicer headers and exhaust lines, maybe it is time?

Olerodder, If I lower my horse power expectation to keep my 8", what exhaust diameter do I need?
last time we discussed this topic I was going for a 400hp engine and you told me that 2.5" H pipe would work...
I find different exhausts pipes: 2", 2-1/4", 2-1/2"
for what HP ranges are these pipes?
If I keep the 8" rearend, should I still go for 2-1/2" or would a 2-1/4" would give better torque?
Concerning the mufflers, I heard that "super 44" would give me the most classical mustang sound so I assume that is what I need...
there are also the 40 series and 40 series delta flow...
plus I've seen steel and aluminum for the same price: one more question.
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 02:25 PM   #268
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
new pictures of my little Pony:


__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 02:39 PM   #269
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Olerodder, what do you think of these:



Seen on Summit :
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par.../model/mustang
3Y with 1-5/8 primarys than 2" than 2-1/2"... would long tube 4-1 be better?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 05:32 PM   #270
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
new pictures of my little Pony:


Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Oh damn... a support holding my exhaust tip broke... the pipe vibrates on the tank when I'm at idle: my car sounds like an old junk!
:-p
In january I broke the same on the other side and got it welded and now it's the other side.

As I plan buying nicer headers and exhaust lines, maybe it is time?

Olerodder, If I lower my horse power expectation to keep my 8", what exhaust diameter do I need?
last time we discussed this topic I was going for a 400hp engine and you told me that 2.5" H pipe would work...
I find different exhausts pipes: 2", 2-1/4", 2-1/2"
for what HP ranges are these pipes?
If I keep the 8" rearend, should I still go for 2-1/2" or would a 2-1/4" would give better torque?
Concerning the mufflers, I heard that "super 44" would give me the most classical mustang sound so I assume that is what I need...
there are also the 40 series and 40 series delta flow...
plus I've seen steel and aluminum for the same price: one more question.
Ok, lets tackle one thing at a time.
So, lets shoot for 350HP....very doable. That way you can keep your 8" as long as you don't start going out and dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm or doing donuts and smoking the tires off.
Personally I'd use long tube headers with 1-5/8 primaries and forget about those tri-Y headers you have pictured. I would go with 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" pipes with an H crossover just like the K code Mustands. I have no idea what the 40 series mufflers are. I have only used Magnaflow for the past 20+ years as I don't like the sound of Flowmasters...they are just too loud and don't sound good to me. Whatever mufflers you get make sure the inlet and outlet pipes on the mufflers are 3"....use a neckdown to go from the tailpipes to the muffler...this is important on both the inlet and exhaust side of the muffler....then continue on with the 2-1/4 or 2-1/2" tailpipe. Make sure you use an H crossover and limit it to the size of your primary tailpipe size or one size down....if you tailpipe is 2-1/4" you can use 2" for the crossover but no more than 2-1/2....if you use 2-1/2 tailpipe use a 2-1/2" crossover not anything larger. If 2-1/4 pipe is special order or more expensive to get then use 2-1/2".
Also, with the collector I'd use a 3"....I think 2-1/2" is a little too small.
This is what I would do if I were building a Mustang like yours and shooting for 350hp.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 06:56 PM   #271
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Oh thank you so much!
So, to sum up and see if I understood:

1-5/8 primary long headers with 3" collector
2-1/2 tubes
H junction between pipes smaller than the rest or maximum equal diameter.
2-1/2 to 3 adapter before muffler
3" Magnaflow muffler
3 to 2-1/2 adapter after muffler
tail pipes thru rear valance with stainless rim.

Is that what you talk about when you say adapter?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1973/overview/

Will the noise still be OK with the 3" mufflers?
actually I have tiny 3Y and 2" H pipe... I feel like the noise is not enough for an american muscle car. But bigger is not always better and I would not want to end up being too loud:
My project is all about finding the right compromise between classy oldie and muscle spirit !
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 08:03 PM   #272
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
I found this chart on the net that tend to show that my project is more between 2 and 2-1/4. But as usual, I don't know what they're talking about... SAE or DYN? I guess it's engine HP...
2-1/2 looks too big, I might loose torque and make too much noise for European cops.


Pipe Diameter (inches); Max HP For A Dual Pipe System
1-1/2 inch; 155hp
1-5/8 inch; 185hp
1-3/4 inch; 217hp
2 inch; 289hp
2-1/4 inch; 371hp
2-1/2 inch; 463hp

2-3/4 inch; 566hp
3 inch; 679hp
3-1/4 inch; 802hp
3-1/2 inch; 935 hp
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 09:08 PM   #273
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
Oh thank you so much!
So, to sum up and see if I understood:

1-5/8 primary long headers with 3" collector
2-1/2 tubes
H junction between pipes smaller than the rest or maximum equal diameter.
2-1/2 to 3 adapter before muffler
3" Magnaflow muffler
3 to 2-1/2 adapter after muffler
tail pipes thru rear valance with stainless rim.

Is that what you talk about when you say adapter?
https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...1973/overview/

Will the noise still be OK with the 3" mufflers?
actually I have tiny 3Y and 2" H pipe... I feel like the noise is not enough for an american muscle car. But bigger is not always better and I would not want to end up being too loud:
My project is all about finding the right compromise between classy oldie and muscle spirit !
Yes, that's the kind of adapter you need...remember I said that 2-1/4" would be referred although 2-1/2" will do.
Making an exhaust system sound good is all a matter of personal preference. A 66 K code Mustang was not loud at all...neither was a Chevrolet Z28 unless you got the chambered exhaust...and a 66 Mustang was not considered a muscle car and still isn't.....the other thing to remember is that cheap exhaust clamps leak and V clamps or wide band clamps don't. If you want to make a leak proof system these would be the answer...http://www.mandrelbends.com/v-bands-...ps.html...they are a lot more expensive than $2.50 apiece regular exhaust clamps....but do leak. When you put an exhaust system together with headers all you want hear....other than a nice noise coming out of the exhaust pipes....is the headers pinging....the sound of the exhaust gases hitting the metal headers.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 10:56 PM   #274
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
I know that the early mustangs are no muscle cars, they are "wet noodle" quiet little ponies!

But for a French guy, it's still a classic V8 sports car and classic V8s from where I'm from are the ones you see in Gone in 60s, Bullit, Fast&Furious, Duke of Hazard... my car needs to be a nice old little pony but able to roar to represent V8 spirit!
2-1/4 will be fine.
Thanks for your links, nice quality and nice assembly does all the final product... I might add some wraping tape on some areas as on the side of the tank to avoid heating gas.
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-13-2016, 11:04 PM   #275
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
Ok, you can keep your 8" as long as you don't start going out and dumping the clutch at 4000 rpm or doing donuts and smoking the tires off.
I'm going on my 40s, I'm not a stupid dumb *** trying to break my toy! I know how to preserve old mechanics, I do a lot of double clutching downshifting and I only do soft drifting when the road is super nice and flat!
a big kid, but not brainless! And I'm a mechanical engineer, I'm aware of mechanical limits.
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 12:22 AM   #276
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I know that the early mustangs are no muscle cars, they are "wet noodle" quiet little ponies!

But for a French guy, it's still a classic V8 sports car and classic V8s from where I'm from are the ones you see in Gone in 60s, Bullit, Fast&Furious, Duke of Hazard... my car needs to be a nice old little pony but able to roar to represent V8 spirit!
2-1/4 will be fine.
Thanks for your links, nice quality and nice assembly does all the final product... I might add some wraping tape on some areas as on the side of the tank to avoid heating gas.
With the right suspension pieces an early Mustang can carve corners with much newer ones....in fact I'd put my 63-1/2 Falcon against any pre-2015 Mustang in corner carving.
I'm not much for movie cars....although I had a chance to buy one of the Fast&Furious Mavericks....it just needed too much work and the price was too high.
As for wrapping tape...you really don't need it in that area....I'd be more concerned about the headers and pipes that are under the drivers compartment. The one bad thing about wrapping tape is that it promotes rust...unless you want to unwrap it every six months or so....been there and done that.
I guess what I was trying to say is that if you want to maximize performance use the 2-1/4" pipe with 2" H cross pipe and 3" inlet and outlet on the muffler...use the reducers from 2-1/4" to the 3" and get a set of long tube headers with 1-5/8" primary tubes and a 3" collector. The sound is up to....as I said exhaust sound is what you like....I like mine quite at idle and part throttle and moderately loud at WOT.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 12:45 AM   #277
Registered Member

Regular
 
olerodder's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Corvallis
Region: Oregon
Posts: 2,331
Quote:
Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
I'm going on my 40s, I'm not a stupid dumb *** trying to break my toy! I know how to preserve old mechanics, I do a lot of double clutching downshifting and I only do soft drifting when the road is super nice and flat!
a big kid, but not brainless! And I'm a mechanical engineer, I'm aware of mechanical limits.
I'm in my 70's and have been a successful mechanical engineer for 45 of those years. I've built race cars, drag cars, hot rods and know what it takes to put a car together and keep it together. I have an SCCA National License and NHRA Competition license. I've built 9 second drag cars and under 1.54.6 lap times in at Laguna Seca Raceway....I didn't mean to say anything about your abilities or knowledge...I was just saying that each piece of an automobile....even pieces that have been rebuilt or replaced....have their limits and as those pieces age the limits decline....especially pieces that have an inherent design weakness...and an 8" rear end is just that.
olerodder is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 01:29 AM   #278
Registered Member
Regular
 
Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Salinas
Region: California
Posts: 6,748
Quote:
Originally Posted by olerodder View Post
With the right suspension pieces an early Mustang can carve corners with much newer ones....in fact I'd put my 63-1/2 Falcon against any pre-2015 Mustang in corner carving.
That is what I think before every autocross that I attend... Until I pull into the track in the morning and see this car. http://www.speedhunters.com/2014/08/...azy-afternoon/
Mike doesn't come to every event, and he doesn't race the car in any class, but if that car is there, I immediately know that I don't stand a chance of having the fastest Mustang at the event.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
straybullitt is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 03:21 PM   #279
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
All right guys, I was just saying I'm not beating up my car.

concerning hood pins (yes, I switch back to non vital stuff)
Cobraautomotive parts are crazy expensive! 100$ with shipping? that is 60$ just for stainless lanyards?
not so sure anymore...

About other stuff that I find, I've seen that:

is that better than regular flat plate?
I also read on internet that it was a good idea to make a groove on the pin so it stays in place and doesn't slip to one side...
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 06-14-2016, 03:31 PM   #280
Registered Member
Regular
 
Uj_SPRT's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: San Antonio
Region: Texas
Posts: 221
or there are this other kind of pins:


isn't that better that the round ones?
__________________
Fxxx the plastic / save the classic
Chrome won't get you home, mat black will get you back. Jesus is my airbag!
Uj_SPRT is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mustang Evolution > 4 Cylinder | V6 | Classic Mustangs || Tech and Talk > Classic Mustangs

« 67 restomod | - »
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Whats looks better a 1966 mustang coupe, or a 1967 mustang coupe? Carmi Classic Mustangs 3 12-17-2011 03:51 AM
Fiberglass pieces for '66 coupe and '68 coupe..where to buy? MustangMatt Mustang Audio & Video 2 01-19-2005 10:14 PM
87-93 5.0 Coupe Jayber Mustang Parts for Sale and Wanted 3 09-06-2004 07:41 AM
Got to drive a turbo coupe Tbird232ci The Bar 3 05-08-2004 01:39 PM
T-bird Turbo Coupe?? fast64 The Bar 3 11-05-2003 09:37 AM

» Like Us On Facebook



02:39 PM


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2016, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0

MustangEvolution.com is in no way associated with or endorsed by Ford Motor Company.