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Old 06-14-2016, 03:50 PM   #281
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because this looks awefull!


almost as mutch as that:
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Old 06-14-2016, 06:41 PM   #282
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^^thats the way to go probably 2-3 bucks at ace hardware


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Old 06-14-2016, 07:05 PM   #283
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Yes. The barrel bolt is definitely old school!
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:02 PM   #284
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That is what I think before every autocross that I attend... Until I pull into the track in the morning and see this car. '66 Mustang + NASCAR V8 = One Crazy Afternoon - Speedhunters
Mike doesn't come to every event, and he doesn't race the car in any class, but if that car is there, I immediately know that I don't stand a chance of having the fastest Mustang at the event.

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That is a really neat Mustang!!!!!
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Old 06-14-2016, 11:16 PM   #285
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That is a really neat Mustang!!!!!
I was blown away the first time that I saw it.
He ran the car in the Ultimate Street Car Competition this year.
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:01 AM   #286
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This car just kicks ***!!!
I love it!
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:04 PM   #287
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new pictures of my little Pony:



Your car looks great! Is that Brittany Blue? Original color?
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Old 06-15-2016, 12:39 PM   #288
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My coupe was originaly "raven black". I think the actual color is close to the "silver blue" available in 66.
At first I didn't like it and my favourite was "nightmist blue", but I got used to it and now I think I'll keep that color.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:03 PM   #289
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I'm stuck, Clutch linkage is weird again...
I can't find a correct setting to release it!!! It is so annoying !
Crying.
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:22 PM   #290
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Could be time to revisit the hydraulic clutch....?
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:41 PM   #291
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I guess...
News:
I've tried to set it again and I realized how bad it went:
The upper rod is BENT and now hits my master cylinder.
So there's definitely a BIG problem.

I'm now stuck with no car.

2 solutions:
Cable: I need to replace my bell house
hydraulic: I need to get into my bell house.

In one case like the other, I'm screwed.
So it's time to spend what's needed: flywheel, clutch and a new system
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Old 06-16-2016, 01:58 PM   #292
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Forget about the cable...they stretch and they break..part of the reason Ford went to hydraulic on the newer Mustangs...please don't use a cable as it's not the right solution.
Why do you need a new flywheel??? Just have that one resurfaced and it will be good to go...unless it's cracked or seriously warped. When you upgrade or replace the motor....that is the time to buy a new flywheel...just a suggestion.
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:06 PM   #293
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When I start on 1st gear, the car shakes. I assume that there's an other problem on the clutch or the flywheel surface.
I sent you a PM
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Old 06-16-2016, 02:08 PM   #294
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What hydraulic system should I order?
What clutch should I order?
From who?
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:24 PM   #295
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So, McLeod doesn't have any "semi hydraulic" solution for my car.
They only have the full hydraulic thowout bearing system.
(their parts are way cheaper on CJ pony parts than if I order directly from them)
roughtly 640$

If I choose to go that way, the only thing I need is my gearboxs input shaft diameter...
small one : 1.0625 (1-1/16)
big one : 1.375 (1-3/8)
What I know about my gearbox is that:
RVG C2
Top Loader close ratio
390 engine
1967-69 Montego / Fairlane / Ranchero

Does this meen something to someone?
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:32 PM   #296
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When I start on 1st gear, the car shakes. I assume that there's an other problem on the clutch or the flywheel surface.
I sent you a PM
The clutch "chatter" is a symptom of a broken linkage.
Have someone depress the clutch pedal while you are under the car, so you can try to determine what failed. There may be a crack somewhere.
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:39 PM   #297
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Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
So, McLeod doesn't have any "semi hydraulic" solution for my car.
They only have the full hydraulic thowout bearing system.
(their parts are way cheaper on CJ pony parts than if I order directly from them)
roughtly 640$

If I choose to go that way, the only thing I need is my gearboxs input shaft diameter...
small one : 1.0625 (1-1/16)
big one : 1.375 (1-3/8)
What I know about my gearbox is that:
RVG C2
Top Loader close ratio
390 engine
1967-69 Montego / Fairlane / Ranchero

Does this meen something to someone?
The easiest way to find out would be to call either CJ, or McLeod, and talk to a technical advisor.
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:43 PM   #298
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Originally Posted by Uj_SPRT View Post
So, McLeod doesn't have any "semi hydraulic" solution for my car.
They only have the full hydraulic thowout bearing system.
(their parts are way cheaper on CJ pony parts than if I order directly from them)
roughtly 640$

If I choose to go that way, the only thing I need is my gearboxs input shaft diameter...
small one : 1.0625 (1-1/16)
big one : 1.375 (1-3/8)
What I know about my gearbox is that:
RVG C2
Top Loader close ratio
390 engine
1967-69 Montego / Fairlane / Ranchero

Does this meen something to someone?
The number is an RUG, not RVG.
The RUG C2 is a 28 spline input shaft with close ratio which is a 2.32 first gear.
I'm fairly sure it's a 1-1/6" input shaft as they did make a 1-3/8" input in the 28 spline....my best guess anyway.

Here is an identification link;

Toploader id
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Old 06-16-2016, 04:58 PM   #299
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Originally Posted by straybullitt View Post
The clutch "chatter" is a symptom of a broken linkage.
Have someone depress the clutch pedal while you are under the car, so you can try to determine what failed. There may be a crack somewhere.
Clutch chatter can certainly be a symptom of broken linkage and can also be an issue with your clutch disc dampening springs, a worn pilot bearing or a warped pressure plate or flywheel....although I never actually seen a warped flywheel I would expect it put up a pretty good harmonic vibration at certain rpm's.
It's so hard to trouble shoot a drivetrain issue without being there in person.
Whichever way you decide to go make sure you pull the clutch/pressure plate out and inspect it along with the flywheel.

Where you able to contact Modern Drive Line?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:01 PM   #300
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it was on a post-it that the guy who rebuilt my gearbox left for me...
yes it was also saying 28 splines but I thought that was for the output shaft.

The mechanic told me that it was a gearbox that was designed for a bigblock and that the shaft had been cut to fit a smallblock, but that is was a really common conversion. Does that make sens?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:05 PM   #301
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is a 390 a big block or a small block ?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:08 PM   #302
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Big block.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:19 PM   #303
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On David Kee site I find this sentence :
"A 1-1/16" input shaft was used in motors from the 200 c.i. to the 390 c.i. while the 427, 428 and 429 were available only with close ratio gears. The 1-1/16" input transmissions are available in both close and wide gear ratios."

Does that say that as mine is for a 390, my shaft is a 1-1/16 ?
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:24 PM   #304
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All "Big" Toploaders came with 31 spline input shafts and bigger bearings and they came behind the 427, 428 CJ, Boss 429 motors. The smaller Toploaders came with 28 spline and came behind the 390, 401, 406, 352....which are all FE motors and all considered "Big Blocks".
You can switch out the 31 spline for the 28 spline although it is quite involved and will require a new tail housing. I've just never heard of "cutting down" an input shaft from 31 spline to 28 spline and the RUG-C2 confirms it is a stock 28 spline not a 31....at least in my mind anyway.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:28 PM   #305
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Clutch chatter can certainly be a symptom of broken linkage and can also be an issue with your clutch disc dampening springs, a worn pilot bearing or a warped pressure plate or flywheel....although I never actually seen a warped flywheel I would expect it put up a pretty good harmonic vibration at certain rpm's.
It's so hard to trouble shoot a drivetrain issue without being there in person.
Whichever way you decide to go make sure you pull the clutch/pressure plate out and inspect it along with the flywheel.

Where you able to contact Modern Drive Line?
Agreed.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:33 PM   #306
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On David Kee site I find this sentence :
"A 1-1/16" input shaft was used in motors from the 200 c.i. to the 390 c.i. while the 427, 428 and 429 were available only with close ratio gears. The 1-1/16" input transmissions are available in both close and wide gear ratios."

Does that say that as mine is for a 390, my shaft is a 1-1/16 ?
That is how I interpret that sentence.
If the information is indeed correct, that would mean that your transmission has a 1-1/16 shaft.
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Old 06-16-2016, 05:42 PM   #307
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OK, so all sources seem to lead to the small 1-1/16 shaft.

about the clutch, what does a "broken linkage" refer to?
I'm good at motorcylce clutches but I haven't played with many car clutches...
will that disapear with the hydraulic conversion or should I find myself another clutch when I'm at it?
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Old 06-16-2016, 06:17 PM   #308
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When I say "broken linkage", I am referring to the entire poorly designed clutch linkage used to actuate the clutch. But specifically, it is the Z-bar that is likely prone to break.
There could be a crack in it that is causing the clutch problems.
If I recall, you have been struggling to keep the clutch adjusted correctly. People have been fighting the damned clutch linkage in those cars for literally 50 years!

If it is broken, possibly, you can just replace it... Again... Knowing that the piece of crap will just keep breaking, and it will buy you some time to figure out a more permanent solution.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:05 PM   #309
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When I say "broken linkage", I am referring to the entire poorly designed clutch linkage used to actuate the clutch. But specifically, it is the Z-bar that is likely prone to break.
There could be a crack in it that is causing the clutch problems.
If I recall, you have been struggling to keep the clutch adjusted correctly. People have been fighting the damned clutch linkage in those cars for literally 50 years!

If it is broken, possibly, you can just replace it... Again... Knowing that the piece of crap will just keep breaking, and it will buy you some time to figure out a more permanent solution.
Ok, got it. So not directly linked to te clutch itself, so it should disappear with the hydraulic. Good.

As I was telling Olerodder, I have replaced my Z-bar when switching to power steering : the "chatter" was there before and after.
BUT, I have noticed another weird thing: my lower linkage is far from being in line with the car. I meen it's not in the cars axle, as if the clutch fork was too short. I bet that can explain lots of bad things... efforts in the wrong direction, leading the Z-bar to twist but also a greater effort on the fork to move the clutch...

Hopefully, all these problems will left behind with hydraulic.
I am also ordering a bearing conversion for the pedal mount to make things right.
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Old 06-16-2016, 07:14 PM   #310
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I just received an e-mail from a guy who has an internet site on Toploaders : for him, if 28 splines in the output, small diameter on the input with no hesitation.
that is one more confirmation.
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Old 06-16-2016, 09:23 PM   #311
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Ok, got it. So not directly linked to te clutch itself, so it should disappear with the hydraulic. Good.

As I was telling Olerodder, I have replaced my Z-bar when switching to power steering : the "chatter" was there before and after.
BUT, I have noticed another weird thing: my lower linkage is far from being in line with the car. I meen it's not in the cars axle, as if the clutch fork was too short. I bet that can explain lots of bad things... efforts in the wrong direction, leading the Z-bar to twist but also a greater effort on the fork to move the clutch...

Hopefully, all these problems will left behind with hydraulic.
I am also ordering a bearing conversion for the pedal mount to make things right.
I did not say that it is not possible for something else, possibly clutch related, to be the cause of the problem. It would not be possible for me to do that over the internet.

Although, it does sound like you've already identified some deficiencies in the clutch linkage, so it seems likely that the linkage is a problem.
I know that you recently had the transmission rebuilt. Was the clutch assembly replaced at that time?
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Old 06-17-2016, 07:39 AM   #312
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Not replaced but checked (not by me), and I was told it was in great condition.
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Old 06-17-2016, 01:49 PM   #313
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Just more fuel to throw on the fire. I just got off the phone with a friend that had a Mustang only restoration shop...over 30 years of working on early Mustangs...and he told me that if you are going to replace the manual linkage and go with a hydraulic throwout bearing to use a Tilton 6000 series as it one of the only ones that is very easy to adjust free play....the amount of gap between the clutch fingers before it ingages...as it just screws in or out. Not cheap although he has installed a dozen of these over the years for customers.....just a thought.
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Old 06-17-2016, 02:08 PM   #314
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Just more fuel to throw on the fire. I just got off the phone with a friend that had a Mustang only restoration shop...over 30 years of working on early Mustangs...and he told me that if you are going to replace the manual linkage and go with a hydraulic throwout bearing to use a Tilton 6000 series as it one of the only ones that is very easy to adjust free play....the amount of gap between the clutch fingers before it ingages...as it just screws in or out. Not cheap although he has installed a dozen of these over the years for customers.....just a thought.
I've ordered some McLeod stuff this morning!

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Old 06-21-2016, 10:08 AM   #315
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So, now my car has no more clutch linkage: nothing left from pedal to fork.
Brake booster and master cylinder are unbolted, just hanging by the brake lines.

I should receive my parts today, I found an old drill, a few bits and a round file. So tonight I plan to drill the necessary holes in the firewall.
than I have to make sure the brake lines don't interfer... and then put everything back togeither.

Finally, I plan to have the hydraulic throwout bearing installed by a good garage that I trust. Maybe on Friday if I can finish installing the 2 master cylinders and brake bleeding before then.

I have a question concerning the pedal assembly :
There's a big spring for the clutch pedal... should it stay there or should I take it out? if so, do you have an idea of how?

Actually I'm going to work using a bicycle... 7 miles in the morning, 7 miles to come back... I miss my pony!!!
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