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Old 06-07-2016, 02:05 PM   #1
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Brake issue

Hey guys i have a problem with my brakes on my 67 coupe. I'm back to work on my classic and I'm bleeding the brakes but I can't... I mean I know how and I know I'm doing it right but I still have no pedal. I bled the master cylinder in car and then went around and bled the brakes but the pedal never gets heavy I have all new hoses and the lines are all good and there's no leaks anywhere but after I pump up the pedal to build pressure I let my foot off the pedal not 10 seconds and I suddenly have no pressure anymore. Do I have a leak inside the master cylinder? Or where is the pressure going?


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Old 06-07-2016, 02:50 PM   #2
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have you bench bleed your MC ?
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Old 06-07-2016, 05:41 PM   #3
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I did it on the car


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Old 06-07-2016, 07:08 PM   #4
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One bowl or double bowl MC?
Your story really sounds like a MC that's not well bleeded, that pushes only air in your lines...
:-/
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Old 06-07-2016, 07:15 PM   #5
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And there's nothing magic, it's easy to detect a leak on the lines and wheel cylinders (or calipers) so the only part that can be tricky is the MC.
Take it out and bench bleed it again: It will save your time. Otherwise you are going to turn crazy!
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:09 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by Bravebowhunter View Post
Hey guys i have a problem with my brakes on my 67 coupe. I'm back to work on my classic and I'm bleeding the brakes but I can't... I mean I know how and I know I'm doing it right but I still have no pedal. I bled the master cylinder in car and then went around and bled the brakes but the pedal never gets heavy I have all new hoses and the lines are all good and there's no leaks anywhere but after I pump up the pedal to build pressure I let my foot off the pedal not 10 seconds and I suddenly have no pressure anymore. Do I have a leak inside the master cylinder? Or where is the pressure going?
To answer your question, if you pump up the pedal and have brakes yet release the pedal and then have non...you still have air in the system. If you had a leak in the system you would never be able to pump the brakes up as they would leak out under pressure.


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I'm not following what you said outlined in red. I assume you have one other person helping you...the person that is pumping up the pedal and you are underneath bleeding the brakes....right?
You should start bleeding the brake that is on the passenger side at the rear, then the drivers side rear, then the passenger side front and last the drivers side front.
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Old 07-27-2016, 10:24 AM   #7
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I was doing it that way but I soon as I let the system relax (take my foot off the pedal) then I press on the pedal again and it goes all the way to floor with just the weight of my foot...


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Old 07-27-2016, 10:26 AM   #8
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I was also told that my push rod was not long enough and that I should adjust it to make it longer but there is no way to adjust it its a fixed rod


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Old 07-27-2016, 11:23 AM   #9
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Sounds like the Master cylinder to me also!
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Old 07-27-2016, 11:49 AM   #10
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Oh and I also took the mc out and bench bled it still the same problem...


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Old 07-27-2016, 11:52 AM   #11
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I'm gonna replace the rear drum brakes and looks like get a new mc too.


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Old 07-28-2016, 09:19 AM   #12
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Do you have power brakes?
Do you lose any brake fluid when you are trying to bleed the brakes...either from the front or rear reservoir?
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Old 07-28-2016, 08:14 PM   #13
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It's Manual brakes and yes I keep topping it off because I keep getting air in the line. But there's no leaks anywhere in the system...


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Old 07-28-2016, 09:25 PM   #14
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It sounds like you've got a ton of air in the entire system and it may take sometime to get it out. After building a 1940 Ford we spent almost 3 hours getting most of the air out...and then finally ended up buying a pressure bleeder like this: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Tech/p...akes.html...we actually bought it from Summit Racing because we usually get one day shipping from their AZ warehouse...and after using it we had a rock solid pedal.
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Old 07-29-2016, 05:34 AM   #15
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Lol the link says it no longer exists but yeah I know what a pressure bleeder is. So you think I just need to get a ton of brake fluid and just bleed the f*** out of it? I think I want to put new drum brakes on it anyways so I'll wait till I do that to try bleeding it again. Another question... Do you think the length of the push rod matters? Mine is a fixed length so I can't adjust it


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Old 07-29-2016, 12:43 PM   #16
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If you have bleed the MC on the bench and had no leaks and it pushes the air out and you have no leaks at the wheel cylinders or calipers I can see nothing else it can be.
What did you do exactly to have this issue?, did you change something or disconnect lines...etc? Was the system working before? Did you just buy this car from someone?
As far as I know I think the non-power brake had a specific length rod as did the power brake system. Unless someone has been modifying the pedal system or MC...it doesn't make much sense it would be too short...I guess that just depends on what someone did before you got the car.

http://www.aerospacecomponents.com/i...9MUST4HOLE.pdf

This will give you a reference as to the proper ratio for the pedal and although this is for an aftermarket setup OEM should be close.
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Old 08-02-2016, 06:11 PM   #17
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brake problem

i have a 99 mustang with abs and traction control. front brakes are locked up. i replaced both pads rotors and hoses also the master cylinder and they are still locked up. i need help don't know what else to do
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:10 AM   #18
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Are you saying you can't drive the car because the brakes are locked up?
When you turn the motor on do you get an ABS light?
When you changed everything did you bleed the brakes and when you replaced the pads did you squeeze the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads?
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:34 AM   #19
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Are you saying you can't drive the car because the brakes are locked up?
When you turn the motor on do you get an ABS light?
When you changed everything did you bleed the brakes and when you replaced the pads did you squeeze the pistons back into the caliper before installing the new pads?
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Old 08-03-2016, 11:35 AM   #20
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bleed everything. no abst light on at all.
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Old 08-04-2016, 07:57 AM   #21
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Lol the link says it no longer exists but yeah I know what a pressure bleeder is. So you think I just need to get a ton of brake fluid and just bleed the f*** out of it? I think I want to put new drum brakes on it anyways so I'll wait till I do that to try bleeding it again. Another question... Do you think the length of the push rod matters? Mine is a fixed length so I can't adjust it


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Make sure that you are getting the correct components for your car. All those early mustangs had fixed push rods. I just went through hell with my brakes on a 67. Turns out it was originally an all drum setup and someone upgraded to front power disc, but piecemealed it and didn't use a kit. It had the wrong brake pedal and I actually bent the push rod because the angle was wrong.
Sounds like you are dealing with an original system, but sometimes they say it fits 65-73 and you really needed something specific. I called the Mustang parts store that I normally use and talked to the guy there and learned a lot. I've got one rear brake line to replace and I think I'm done.
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:18 AM   #22
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i have a 99 mustang with abs and traction control. front brakes are locked up. i replaced both pads rotors and hoses also the master cylinder and they are still locked up. i need help don't know what else to do
I need more questions answered before I can go any further.
Can you explain how the brakes are locked up...you mentioned replacing the hoses and pads and MC along with bleeding the system...are the pads just dragging on the rotor or does the front wheel not turn....when you apply the brakes how does the pedal feel...
When you bleed the brakes did you start at the far rear drivers side, then drivers rear, then passenger front, then drivers side front. So I assume you are getting brake fluid to your calilpers???
I assume that you had driven the car before this started...correct? Then what prompted you start changing everything....did the brakes lock up first?
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Old 08-04-2016, 12:58 PM   #23
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was driving the car when front brake locked up. then the pedal went to the floor no brakes at all. when i took the brakes apart right front was shoot, left was good the caliper was locked. the pads rotor and caliper were destroyed. put new pads and rotors on the wheel spun freely. bleed brakes all good then tried to spin the tires both sides locked up again. so i replaced both hoses, re bleed again. same thing all over the brakes won't release. so on the the master cylinder replaced it re bleed system. tires won't spin brakes are locked i've done hundreds of brake jobs never seen this before. hope you cane help. thanks Dee
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:40 PM   #24
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I'm gonna replace the rear drum brakes and looks like get a new mc too.


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The symptoms point towards a failed master cylinder.
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Old 08-04-2016, 01:43 PM   #25
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was driving the car when front brake locked up. then the pedal went to the floor no brakes at all. when i took the brakes apart right front was shoot, left was good the caliper was locked. the pads rotor and caliper were destroyed. put new pads and rotors on the wheel spun freely. bleed brakes all good then tried to spin the tires both sides locked up again. so i replaced both hoses, re bleed again. same thing all over the brakes won't release. so on the the master cylinder replaced it re bleed system. tires won't spin brakes are locked i've done hundreds of brake jobs never seen this before. hope you cane help. thanks Dee
If you open the bleeders on the calipers to relieve the pressure, do the front wheels then spin freely?
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Old 08-04-2016, 08:44 PM   #26
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If you open the bleeders on the calipers to relieve the pressure, do the front wheels then spin freely?
yes. then i close it and press the pedal and it locks up. the caliper will not release
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Old 08-04-2016, 09:30 PM   #27
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yes. then i close it and press the pedal and it locks up. the caliper will not release
Are the calipers new?
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:16 AM   #28
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This has been keeping me awake at night so....did you use any petroleum product to clean the master cylinder when you replaced it? I thought you said you bleed the MC on the bench right?
It can mean the calipers are not getting enough pressure in the line...did you flush the system?
So, for me if both front brakes are locked...loosen the line above the brake hose on the right side caliper...if the brake releases the issue is further up in the system.
Is the left side still locked or is it free?
One important thing to keep in mind is that when you change calipers and MC the complete system should be flushed...if the system condition is unknown.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:19 AM   #29
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This has been keeping me awake at night so....did you use any petroleum product to clean the master cylinder when you replaced it? I thought you said you bleed the MC on the bench right?
It can mean the calipers are not getting enough pressure in the line...did you flush the system?
So, for me if both front brakes are locked...loosen the line above the brake hose on the right side caliper...if the brake releases the issue is further up in the system.
Is the left side still locked or is it free?
One important thing to keep in mind is that when you change calipers and MC the complete system should be flushed...if the system condition is unknown.
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:30 AM   #30
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i flushed the whole system, did not clean the mc, just flushed it out. had the same locking up with the old mc. all i can think is the proportioning valve. thanks for any help you can give me. i'm stumped. Dee
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Old 08-05-2016, 10:33 AM   #31
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yup new mc, calipers, hose rotors, and hoses. all that's left is abs, power booster and proportioning valve.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:20 AM   #32
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i flushed the whole system, did not clean the mc, just flushed it out. had the same locking up with the old mc. all i can think is the proportioning valve. thanks for any help you can give me. i'm stumped. Dee
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yup new mc, calipers, hose rotors, and hoses. all that's left is abs, power booster and proportioning valve.
Please try what I mentioned above...at least it will will rule out the hose to the caliper.
The proportioning valve could be plugged...that's a simple taking it off and blowing it out...the power brake booster could be hanging up and any ABS system I have ever seen go bad sent a signal saying it was not functioning...although on my 08 Dodge Ram it came on and went off when the ignition switch was turned off...it was eventually caused be a ground.
So, I've never seen a power brake booster go bad...not saying it can't but usually I would expect the brake pedal to be an indicator...first feeling harder and harder to push then at failure for the brakes to feel very spongy. Have you checked the vacuum line to the booster?
I still think if you get the brakes to lock up, then loosen the brake line at the connection...it will give you a direction ruling out anything else.
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Old 08-05-2016, 11:46 AM   #33
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yup new mc, calipers, hose rotors, and hoses. all that's left is abs, power booster and proportioning valve.
You can try cracking open the brake lines upstream of each of those components and try to isolate the problem.
But don't rule out the front brake calipers quite yet. If a piston is being forced sideways when under pressure, it may not be releasing until you open the bleeder valve. It wouldn't be the first time that rebuilt calipers were found to be faulty.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:27 PM   #34
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yes all new hoses pads calipers and mc.
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Old 08-05-2016, 12:28 PM   #35
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ok. all new hoses too.
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