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Old 08-25-2016, 12:53 PM   #36
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Since you've got it torn down this far I'd go ahead and pull the cowl off and check to see how much rust you have around the vents...just a suggestion.
You've sure got your work cut out for you...no pun intended.
If it were myself, I'd concentrate on getting all of the rust taken care of...body work, then upgrade the front and rear suspension suspension....then start thinking about the motor upgrades or even look for another block/short block/long block and start from there for aftermarket heads, cam, intake, and exhaust.
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:40 PM   #37
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Here's more of today

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Old 08-25-2016, 07:41 PM   #38
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Starting drilling on the cowl and all I can say is wow to all the spot welds

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Old 08-25-2016, 10:22 PM   #39
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oh man
that's a nightmare
holy cow
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:33 PM   #40
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Not too bad. Pretty normal for a car of that age.
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:40 PM   #41
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Yeah not too shabby. A lot better than when I got mine. But replacement sheet metal is cheap and easy to get.
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Old 08-26-2016, 05:19 AM   #42
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I've seen worse

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Old 08-26-2016, 12:15 PM   #43
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For this old guy a total restoration has come and past...many decades ago. It just makes my blood pressure go up looking at the pictures.
Nothing fits better than OEM sheetmetal although I'm sure repop has gotten better over the decades.
The 66 GT took 2-1/2 years and was my third although the real "Protect-O-Plate" 68 Z28 took me over 5 years.
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Old 08-26-2016, 12:38 PM   #44
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Loving the camaro , and did you have the front frame rails replaced

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Old 08-26-2016, 01:10 PM   #45
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The Camaro was a low mile Oregon car and had no rust at all...of course this was almost 38 years ago...after restoration back to mostly stock with matching numbers the car was sold and is now in Sweden.
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Old 08-26-2016, 02:40 PM   #46
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Wow didn't realize people came here to find cars

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Old 08-26-2016, 04:27 PM   #47
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Thousands of American cars, boats, and trucks are sold overseas and have been for the last few decades.
My Camaro is in Sweden, Model A Highboy Hot Rod is in Finland, my 70 drag only Maverick is in New Zealand and countless engine parts have been shipped to the UK, Germany and beyond. When I took my Model A to Los Angeles to be put into a container I say hundreds of muscle cars, hot rods, exotic and racing cars waiting to be shipped to Europe...very big business!
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:00 PM   #48
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That's cool , never knew anything about that

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Old 08-27-2016, 10:02 PM   #49
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So the shop that was going to do the rear frame rails and torque boxes cannot get to them until next spring so I'm going to have to attempt it myself any advice on keeping back end straight or just remove every panel and also I cannot find the specs

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Old 08-27-2016, 10:34 PM   #50
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One side at a time and just get some square stock to brace it all so nothing moves when replacing the rails
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Old 08-27-2016, 10:41 PM   #51
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Here is a Mustang store that sells manuals and I'm sure National Parts Depot does also...which you should already have...I assume and they will have the spec's for the chassis.
I have an old Mustang Illustration Catalog although it doesn't show any dimensions.

VARIOUS FORD MANUALS NOW AVAILABLE AS INSTANT EBOOK DOWNLOADS

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Old 08-27-2016, 10:50 PM   #52
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Make very, very sure as you pull this car apart that there are no signs of damage from a previous accident, frame rails that have buckles, front bumper attachments that look straight, core support that has no buckles or welded repairs...same goes for the frame rails and back frame support between each side rail.
If it were me would have taken the car and had the frame checked at a frame shop before I started...you can check specs although that won't tell you if the body/frame has been twisted...since you are going to replace frame rails you want to make sure everything is within 1/8" or better. How do the quarters look...along with the wheel houses...is there any bondo or patch panels from the back of the door to the trunk...you really need to make sure before you start cutting the frame apart...if you have to replace quarters now would be the time before you start with the frame rails....IMHO
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Old 08-28-2016, 12:00 AM   #53
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The problem is the whole floor needs replaced so what do I weld to

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Old 08-28-2016, 10:29 AM   #54
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I'd like to see more pictures although the pictures you posted the floor seems to rusted in various areas.
You are going to remove the seat risers right? It would be interesting to see what the floor looks like under them.
I assume you bought a spot weld removal drill bit????? If not, you will at least 2 or 3 of these.
If you are going to remove the complete floor you will need to brace both door openings...front to rear...and brace the inside from the firewall in a T configuration with the long part of the tee at the firewall and the two legs to each quarter just behind the door. If you go further you will also need some bracing at the rear. Be careful as the sheet metal is thin and I would put "pads" where you attach the braces to the body structure. This is a little overkill although I've always wanted to be safe than sorry...IMHO
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:54 AM   #55
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The whole back end is rusted beyond fixing and also where can I find the measurements for the the width between the frame rails the height from the ground and so forth

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Old 08-28-2016, 06:50 PM   #56
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Ok, I'm glad it's you and not me.
The drawing I posted has all of dimensions you will need. The only width dimension is at the very rear...whenever you are making frame measurements you always measure on a diagonal, never side to side.
As for chassis height, there really isn't one...every Mustang has a different ride height...make sure the floor you are putting it on is level and the frame is level...then start making measurements.
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Old 08-28-2016, 07:30 PM   #57
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I'll pay you to do it lol

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Old 08-28-2016, 07:37 PM   #58
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If you weren't 1700 miles away it would be an interesting project...providing I had a blank checkbook and 12 months.
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Old 08-28-2016, 08:34 PM   #59
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Right, I used to have a shop and I need to find another

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Old 08-28-2016, 10:54 PM   #60
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Good shops are out there, you just have to find them.
I went in partners with one of the best painters in the Pacific Northwest almost 30 years ago...unfortunately it didn't work out!
After restoring a dozen cars during my lifetime I would say that within 200 hours we could have your car totally restored...not including parts....I'm talking total rotisserie restoration....at $100 per hour that's a cool $20k...parts...maybe $15k.
For $35k I could buy a very nice 65/66 Mustang!?
To totally strip an early Mustang to bare metal and either rework or replace sheet metal...using little to no filler you are talking $10k...no, I don't do body work although I love to paint.
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Old 08-28-2016, 11:40 PM   #61
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I think this all just sounds scary, but in reality if you can work a tape measure and a level then this won't be hard. I just did a custom 4 link and I just had to say f it and weld it. I'd start with bracing everything and getting it level. Then cut out the floors, put in the new floor in, mark where the torque.boxes and rails go then cut out the old rails and then burn everything in.
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Old 08-29-2016, 11:07 AM   #62
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What do you think of the 4 link I looked into that

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Old 08-29-2016, 03:36 PM   #63
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Well it's for a thunderbird and it's going on air ride. So it's was needed, but just for a weekend worrier you can get a nice leaf pack/shocks/sway bar and maybe a track bar and it'll Handle just as good as a 4 link would I think.
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Old 08-29-2016, 07:52 PM   #64
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My suggestion.....buy one of these.

https://www.mustangsunlimited.com/it...atKey=EMUSTANG

By the time you factor in all the individual patch panels and the time spent prepping/welding/grinding each one, you'll most likely save money with the one piece. And you know that your entire floor is solid. I wish I would've went this route when I did my floors.

Then watch a few YouTube videos.
https://youtu.be/X2j9S4-dV8g
https://youtu.be/aMkQfz1gq_A

And use the solid advice from OleRodder and others and get your hands dirty.


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Old 08-31-2016, 11:04 AM   #65
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Now I saw dynacorn sells a whole floor pan with the truck panels all included front to back with control arms

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Old 08-31-2016, 11:26 AM   #66
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Here you go...this is about how much you will need to cut up the body/frame to put the full floor pan in from firewall to rear tail panel.

Where can I find information on Dynacorn floor panels for a 1965 Mustang - Ask.com YouTube Search



Where can I find information on Dynacorn floor panels for a 1965 Mustang - Ask.com YouTube Search
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Old 09-24-2016, 10:33 PM   #67
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Sorry login got all messed up , yea I was looking at a floor pan like that but here is the thing , if I cut all that out where do I support the car and how do I slide the pan in

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Old 09-24-2016, 10:35 PM   #68
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Is it better to replace all the other panels first like the fire wall , outer cowl panels , lower cowl and upper cowl , quarter panels and so forth

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Old 09-24-2016, 11:02 PM   #69
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You will put the car on jack stands just like the YouTube video shows, cut out the floor and since you will have the doors off and all the windows out with two people you can slide it in and rotate it.
Remember that the Mustang's support comes from the floor pan just like a Volkswagen...start with the floor, rockers, quarters...then cowl and forward.
After replacing most every piece of sheet metal on this car it will have to go on a frame rack to make sure it's straight again...
Starting with a car this rusty you know you'll have more money into it than it will ever be worth...I'm not trying to discourage you I'm just trying to have you realize the amount of work you have ahead and the amount of time it will be sitting on jack stands...projects with this amount of work rarely get finished because of the cost and time involved...my first ground up restoration which was almost rust free took me 5 years...and there were times I had to force myself to go out and work on it...I'm just saying.

Where can I find information on Dynacorn floor panels for a 1965 Mustang - Ask.com YouTube Search
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Old 09-25-2016, 12:38 AM   #70
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So what do you think I am looking at in parts and engine and paint and tires basically everything along with what the car is actually worth

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