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Old 01-03-2017, 09:33 AM   #1
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Power Rack & Pinion

67, 302, coupe, auto, currently stock manual steering.
So does anyone have personal experience with the UniSteer power rack and pinion product. They seem to have made a lot of improvements in the last few years. It's in the right price range and maintains stock turning radius. Any help is appreciated.
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Old 01-10-2017, 10:36 AM   #2
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I used Unisteer back in the day and never had any luck with them and didn't really care for the design and it was never as precise as either of the kits mentioned below...the only drawback to both of the ones I'd get is the price...the Rod&Custom really transforms the Mustang to modern suspension and the ability to improve ride quality beyond what the stock Mustang suspension could ever do...the cost and time is an issue. The Steeroids is the best designed kit on the market and you pay for it...for a cheap solution the Unisteer will work although I wouldn't use it.
If I was going to improve the steering of the 64/68 Mustang I'd either put a new front end under it from Rod&Custom RC-106 Complete Conventional Coil Spring Conversion Package - Rod and Custom Motorsports, Inc. or if you want to have the best designed R&P setup go with the Steeroids complete conversion..Where can I find information on Steeroids rack and pinion for an early Mustang - Ask.com YouTube Search
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Old 01-11-2017, 09:44 PM   #3
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Thanks. Do you lose turning radius with either one?


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Old 01-11-2017, 09:51 PM   #4
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The Steeroids has hardly any slack and is more like a go-kart...the turning radius is exactly the same as stock.
The Rod&Custom is actually shorter than stock by a little as the complete fronte nd geometry is changed...plus you can place the motor a little lower and even a little further back than stock...depending on which motor you use.
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Old 01-13-2017, 07:40 PM   #5
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I second the Rod and Custom route. Not a terrible installation, does require a lot of welding though.

Pros:
"Supposedly" better handling. I say supposedly since I haven't been able to test mine yet. But coil over suspension is better.

You lose the shock towers with this kit so you can fit probably any engine you can think of under the hood.

The kit comes with a Wilwood disc brake setup with ability to upgrade. I upgraded to 12" slotted rotors with 4 pistons calipers, and boy is it sexy to look at. Also comes with brake hoses and everything you need to hook up your steering components.

Cons:
It's definitely not bolt on, so you will need to know how to use a plasma/cutting wheel and know how to weld. But it's not too terrible.

Can't say anything about the other option, but I know you'd be happy with the RC kit.

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Old 01-13-2017, 10:48 PM   #6
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I have no doubt that this kit would be freaking awesome and bring nothing but smiles. But the budget is as always the enemy.
I'm st the point of either going with unisteer or going with a factory type power steering upgrade from manual or doing nothing and waiting for lottery winnings.
But something has to be done, current manual system is failing and manual.


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Old 01-14-2017, 10:50 AM   #7
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I believe the final tab with my brake upgrade and shipping was like $2800 so I get where you are coming from.

But depending on the condition of the rest of your suspension setup and brakes, it may be the time to bite the bullet. This kit is definitely an awesome upgrade from stock, so if you have any future reservations about springs, shocks, brakes, etc., I'd suggest doing it all at once.

Of course, our starting points are completely different with regards to our cars, so my decision was easy.


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Old 01-15-2017, 06:42 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
I have no doubt that this kit would be freaking awesome and bring nothing but smiles. But the budget is as always the enemy.
I'm st the point of either going with unisteer or going with a factory type power steering upgrade from manual or doing nothing and waiting for lottery winnings.
But something has to be done, current manual system is failing and manual.


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Classic Mustang Rack-and-Pinion Guide - Mustang Monthly Magazine

Even the Unisteer system is over $1100, which is just a little more than twice the price of base Rod&Custom. If your budget can only afford this I guess it's better than the stock power unit or manual...even if you rebuild the manual.
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Old 01-21-2017, 02:06 PM   #9
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So on the rod and custom route, is the only welding where the shock towers are replaced?


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Old 01-21-2017, 03:00 PM   #10
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Power Rack & Pinion

You have to weld the crossmember onto the frame rails and then you can weld on the shock tower patches as well.

The first picture that I posted above is the only area that will be welded though.


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Old 01-21-2017, 04:06 PM   #11
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This video is pretty straight forward and gives you a quick overview;

Where can I find installation information on the Rod & Custom front end for a 1965 Mustang - Ask.com YouTube Search
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Old 01-24-2017, 08:42 PM   #12
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So TCP was left out. I'm guessing because it's almost the same cost as Rod & Custom which is obviously superior.
So now I'm leaning Steeroids, still have get a power steering pump and I don't want a GM steering column. If I choose Ford, it'll be idiot, I assume.


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289 - Holley 4150 570cfm; Performer intake; mild cam; MSD HEI; 302 heads; Roller Tips; Hedman Tri-Y headers; H-pipe w/Flowmaster 40's; 9 in posi 3.50; 205/50-17F; 225/50-17R.
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Old 01-24-2017, 09:24 PM   #13
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Total Cost started out building Hot Rod parts and then jumped on the band wagon making other than Hot Rod stuff. Yes, Rod&Custom is a better system in my opinion.
I've used Ididit columns in hot rods along with Flaming River and they are both good products.
Type II pumps are the way to go since they only steal maybe 5/8 HP where the older style can steal upwards of 10/15 HP. There is a company called Turn One Steering that rebuilds the Type II which reduces the HP lose to around 3/5 HP.
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Old 01-25-2017, 07:04 PM   #14
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Power Rack & Pinion

I've been looking to go to a rack and pinion too. I found this one http://www.totalcontrolproducts.com/rack.html not sure about this company


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Old 01-26-2017, 10:11 AM   #15
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I've been looking to go to a rack and pinion too. I found this one Total Control Products not sure about this company



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Looks like it's a good kit, but it costs the same or more than the rod and custom kit, which completely modernizes the front end. Granted it requires some welding, but overall it dramatically improves handling, steering, removes shock towers and strengthens the front end. It's just almost twice the steeroids or unisteer. But if you've got almost $3k to spend, I would go with the rod and custom kit.
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Old 01-26-2017, 09:04 PM   #16
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Yeah I guess your right I don't know why but I've just never really been a fan of those other kits. I just feel like taking out the towers removes some of the strength from the front end.


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Old 01-26-2017, 10:27 PM   #17
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The Mustang shock towers are tied to the firewall which is the reason they have the brace/export brace as there is no solid structure under the engine. When you install the Rod&Custom cross member it has tree times more structural support than the old towers/bracing did.
It's like everyone saying that the Monte Calo bar was needed...it was proven many years ago that putting the Monte Carlo bar did nothing to strengthen the early Mustangs although it's nice eye candy and can interfer with the distributor.
I've had a number of early Mustangs and my Drag Maverick and tried almost everything to make them perform better...shor of getting rid of the shock towers, I've even cut the shock towers and moved the springs outboard and the only result was to gain room.
I've had the opportunity to drive and race a 66 GT 350 with the Rod&Custom setup and can say without a doubt a Mustang without shock towers is the way to go. Even putting a rack&pinion in the early Mustangs only solves the steering issue and addresses very little else...IMHO
You do know that the chassis design for the early Mustangs was actually a Falcon...!?
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Old 01-26-2017, 10:50 PM   #18
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Here is a picture of my ole Maverick with the Cam Research export brace and the cut shock towers and relocated springs.
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Old 02-02-2017, 11:26 AM   #19
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So on the Rod & Custom kit. I have manual steering, so I would need to get a power steering pump (not included)? I already have power front disc brakes, so standard booster and dual bowl MC will work? No other parts needed? This uses the single piston brake calipers like the 68-73?
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Old 02-02-2017, 12:43 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Aggiesrok View Post
So on the Rod & Custom kit. I have manual steering, so I would need to get a power steering pump (not included)? It depends on which rack you get, manual or power. I already have power front disc brakes, so standard booster and dual bowl MC will work? Your master should be fine unless you decide to run 4 wheel disc brakes or go with a different brake setup like 4 piston calipers in the front. No other parts needed? You will also need a rear sump oil pan and pickup as the front sump will not fit the cross member...other than that maybe small stuff, nuts bolts...pretty much everything is included in the complete kit, either 107 or 106 if you opt for standard springs/shocks instead of the coil overs. You may also want to get the dropped spindles which will lower the car about 2" so you don't have to get dropped springs or cut coils...just a thought. This uses the single piston brake calipers like the 68-73?
Yes, the standard kit comes with single piston calipers.
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Old 02-02-2017, 01:21 PM   #21
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Thanks. Do you think the 67 4 piston calipers are better than than the single pistons?


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Old 02-02-2017, 05:31 PM   #22
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Thanks. Do you think the 67 4 piston calipers are better than than the single pistons?


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It really depends on how you are going to use your car. If you are going to autocross or track the car then I'd go with 4 pistons, depending on the area of the each piston you could achieve more clamping force...Pressure = Force/Area...so the more area the more the pressure...the more pistons the more equal force you apply to the pad which means even contact and even wear.
So, at slow speeds single piston and multiple piston will stop about the same...at 100mph you will notice quite a difference depending on pads. My old 14 TrakPak with 4 piston Brembo's did a great job from 120/130 although I doubt I would have noticed much difference at 50mph.
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